Kooguy

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Did you find out why power is always on? Mines doing same thing when car is off

 

ENadeau

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Anyone have the sub randomly stop working?
Driving today sub just stopped completely and haven’t been able to get it back on. Amp lights up and definitely looks like it’s getting power.

Not sure if there’s a fuse specificity for the sub that blew and am planning on doing a deep dive but wanted to see if anyone has had this happen.

System has worked perfectly for a year with issues.
 

abill

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Help,

We just installed this system today in our wrangler. We have the amp working cause it’s playing all the other speakers we replaced really well. However the sub is not working well at all. Basically the blue power light will finally come on when you turn the volume up loud enough but the blue power light comes on when a bass note comes in when it should be playing and off when the bass note is over. Basically it flashes with the music, but doesn’t play.

I have verified there is a good ground, good power connection and I have checked continuity from the head units wires down to the sub and everything I know to do checks out. Oddly enough I did at one point get it to come on but it would cut in and out somewhat and never got it back playing again after trying to wiggle wires around in attempt to find a loose connection but never found one that I could tell.

Anyone else have something similar with the blue power light flashing? What was the fix?
Thanks in advance
 

TheBirdie72

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I have a 2021 two door freedom edition and looked at the Alpine upgrade package… Ultimately, I decided against it and instead went with higher quality Kicker Brand replacement speakers for the dash and overhead sound bar, and a 10 inch powered kicker hideaway sub under the passenger seat. Sourced all speakers and cables from Crutchfield at a good discount and they price matched another competitor.

HUGE improvement in sound quality and output, and the powered 10 inch hideaway kicker sub hits much better than the alpine 8 incher does (and yes it fits fine under the seat with no catching or scratching). And - because I already had Best Buy’s “total tech support” package, installation and tuning the system was absolutely free - and I had a really good tech do the work. Total investment under $800 installed! I would recommend going this route, especially if you have a two door! 😊👍
 

beaups

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Help,

We just installed this system today in our wrangler. We have the amp working cause it’s playing all the other speakers we replaced really well. However the sub is not working well at all. Basically the blue power light will finally come on when you turn the volume up loud enough but the blue power light comes on when a bass note comes in when it should be playing and off when the bass note is over. Basically it flashes with the music, but doesn’t play.

I have verified there is a good ground, good power connection and I have checked continuity from the head units wires down to the sub and everything I know to do checks out. Oddly enough I did at one point get it to come on but it would cut in and out somewhat and never got it back playing again after trying to wiggle wires around in attempt to find a loose connection but never found one that I could tell.

Anyone else have something similar with the blue power light flashing? What was the fix?
Thanks in advance
IIRC There’s a push button switch on the sub toggle input sensing power mode on and off. You need to push that button.
 


abill

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IIRC There’s a push button switch on the sub toggle input sensing power mode on and off. You need to push that button.
i tried that too. I left it out (remote) and it’s definitely off…. Push it in and that’s when I get the blue light that dances to the beat but the sub does nothing.

I can not get a solid blue power light and I assume that’s what I am looking for correct?
 

beaups

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i tried that too. I left it out (remote) and it’s definitely off…. Push it in and that’s when I get the blue light that dances to the beat but the sub does nothing.

I can not get a solid blue power light and I assume that’s what I am looking for correct?
It sounds like your remote turn on lead isn’t correctly connected. The switch position that isn’t “dancing” should be solid on when the vehicle and radio are on. It’s been a while since I did my install but I believe it’s a blue lead with a bullet connector.
 

abill

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It sounds like your remote turn on lead isn’t correctly connected. The switch position that isn’t “dancing” should be solid on when the vehicle and radio are on. It’s been a while since I did my install but I believe it’s a blue lead with a bullet connector.
That is what I thought of as well. I traced it and found the bullet connector you mention. It was good and tight, also checked it out with meter and I have continuity and low voltage… I think it was 3 volts? All other connectors directly at the sub check out fine and all carry 12v
 

beaups

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That is what I thought of as well. I traced it and found the bullet connector you mention. It was good and tight, also checked it out with meter and I have continuity and low voltage… I think it was 3 volts? All other connectors directly at the sub check out fine and all carry 12v
It should be 12-14v when hot
 

abill

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It should be 12-14v when hot
I’ll double check this tomorrow and make sure I remember properly what I remember. If I am not getting 12v, what does that indicate?
 


beaups

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I’ll double check this tomorrow and make sure I remember properly what I remember. If I am not getting 12v, what does that indicate?
Hard to say. Either an incorrect connection, a problem with the radio, or a ground problem. Once you confirm everything is connected correctly I would try a different ground location next.
 

jgdiablo

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Hard to say. Either an incorrect connection, a problem with the radio, or a ground problem. Once you confirm everything is connected correctly I would try a different ground location next.
I had the exact same problem. I ran the 12v remote turn on lead from the 12v lighter in the dash instead of the radio. Quadratech sells a wiring harness to tap it super easy. Working great ever since.
 
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abill

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I had the exact same problem. I ran the 12v remote turn on lead from the 12v lighter in the dash instead of the radio. Quadratech sells a wiring harness to tap it super easy. Working great ever since.
Thanks so much everyone. Yes, what whatever reason i only had 2.54v on the remote wire. I picked the one up from the 12v accessory in the dash panel and everything started working as it should! Thanks again!
 

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I have a 2021 two door freedom edition and looked at the Alpine upgrade package… Ultimately, I decided against it and instead went with higher quality Kicker Brand replacement speakers for the dash and overhead sound bar, and a 10 inch powered kicker hideaway sub under the passenger seat. Sourced all speakers and cables from Crutchfield at a good discount and they price matched another competitor.

HUGE improvement in sound quality and output, and the powered 10 inch hideaway kicker sub hits much better than the alpine 8 incher does (and yes it fits fine under the seat with no catching or scratching). And - because I already had Best Buy’s “total tech support” package, installation and tuning the system was absolutely free - and I had a really good tech do the work. Total investment under $800 installed! I would recommend going this route, especially if you have a two door! 😊👍
Sounds like a great approach, which kicker speakers did you use for the lower dash and soundbar? Did Crutchfield provide all the connectors? I am thinking going this route and would order from crutchfield.
 

TheBirdie72

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Sounds like a great approach, which kicker speakers did you use for the lower dash and soundbar? Did Crutchfield provide all the connectors? I am thinking going this route and would order from crutchfield.
Ok, so here’s what I got:

Already had the upgraded factory 7” touchscreen receiver/display that came with the Jeep - worked great with this setup:

- The sub I had installed was a Kicker 46HS10 10” powered hideaway subwoofer - got from Crutchfield. Much better than the Alpine 8” option that comes in the jeep upgrade kit (I was actually able to compare side by side at a local shop - night and day better). This thing has plenty of thump for a Jeep install; don’t think I’ve ever turned it up more than 50%, even with top off! I listen to a lot of electronic and drum & bass, and like to “feel” my music. Total win here. Had it installed under passenger seat, good fit. Had independent sub volume knob mounted to the front of the center console just above the parking brake lever - perfect spot to comfortably adjust volume without lifting my arm off armrest. The sub itself is about as big a hideaway you can get with it still ‘just’ fitting under the seat. I think there’s even a YouTube video on this out there as well, and even at the end, the guy was like “I could really see this unit being a big win for all the jeep folks out there!” He was dead on.
- Got a pair of “Kicker 47KSC3504” - also from Crutchfield - to replace the 2 in-dash speakers (top). Again, wow what a difference! They are noticeably louder and very clear! The difference in vocals was huge, and even more surprising… actually output good bass. Yes…really, from an upper in-dash speaker. It is not surprising that Jeep includes new upper-dash tweeters in their upgrade kit - the stock ones stink in comparison. These were pretty plug and play and can be easily installed yourself using the existing factory wiring.
- I did not mess with the 2 under-dash knee-level speakers. They are still stock. Really, these are just mid-level “fill” speakers anyway in the overall soundstage, and are a pain in the ass to upgrade due to how they are situated. Given the other parts I did, these are still fine.
- Finally, because the new top-in-dash speakers and sub were soooo much noticeably better… of course I had to go and upgrade the soundbar speakers as well! I was hoping to avoid messin. With the soundbar, but yeah, the other components were so much better, I pretty much had to! So went over to Best Buy and got a pair of Kicker 6x9’s installed (same series as front ones / can’t recall the mfr part, though). They were work for the tech to get in there, but I didn’t have to pay for installation, so that was on them! Lol. maybe go with component replacements to be nicer to your installer…? Either way, they had it in stock and the tech helped me pick them out.
-Ordered part “MB Quart JE1-169SB” from Crutchfield also - replacement soundbar speaker grille pair and bracket for 6x9 install. (Need this to convert to 6x9 in soundbar).

So yeah, all new kicker brand component system for a really good price installed. As a means of comparing volume, I usually ran my Serius XM music at volume level 38+ On the highway and top down when it was stock, and still needed more. Stock speakers really couldn’t do higher vol than 40 without signal dropout, if that. I now get the same db levels at vol 25 with full bodied sound. If I go to vol 30 now, it with top off and highway speed. Plenty loud. And no, I didn’t install an amp, either. The kicker speakers are just better quality/higher sensitivity than the stock ones - but you could throw an amp in there if you wanted to - that’s another great thing about kicker - expendability down the road if you want. Hope that helps! 👍

 
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Jim Marsh Chrysler Jeep
 
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