JmJ_Rubicon

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Installed last weekend and it sounds great! Just what I wanted, louder, and sounds great with the top off. Install was pretty easy, thanks for the tips emgeesea, and thanks Varilux for the settings, they are perfect. Took under 3 hours. Couple of minor problems with buying the parts separate. First, they don't give you the screws to attach the sub to the brackets, however the screws that come with the sub are the perfect size to attach the amp. Quick run to the store, #8 screws and washers, and was good to go. Second issue is the SPR-10TW tweeters sold this way are not set up for plug and play, at least I could not locate them ready to go. I did not want to cut the wiring in the jeep so I debated getting different plug and play tweeters, but since I had these already I found an alternative. I purchased Tweeter/Speaker Adapter Spacer Rings and Red Wolf Aftermarket Front Dash Tweeter Speaker Wiring Harnesses from Amazon for $31 so I could make them plug and play. I will follow up and let you know how that goes. Still all in for under $845, totally worth it! Thanks Again emgeesea for this post.
I just received the speakers from Crutchfield and noticed the same issue with the speakers. @Kungaloosh do have the part number for the Red Wolf tweeter harnesses? I could not find them on Amazon. I was thinking of just cutting the old ones off the current speakers and splicing them onto the the Alpines. That seems like a clean way to do it as well.
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diggerdpilot

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The yellow power cord and ground on the main harness will power the amp and sub if you use all Alpine.
you can see what I did here; https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/attachments/445-3-jpg.355638/ I put in a Kicker powered 10 inch sub and ran a 4 gauge wire for power,spliting it for the Sub's power and then runing a 12 gauge wire to the yellow power wire, on the harness.
So to keep it simple,run a power wire to the harness, and use the ground on the harness and it is good to go.
Perfect, that's what I figured, but wanted to confirm. I went ahead and dove in at Pacparts for the power harness and brackets. In for a penny....
 

Winesmile

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Hey all, just thought I'd check in and say thanks for all the info on this and associated posts!

So, yesterday on my stock JLU Sport-S w/7" stock head unit, I installed the Alpine KTP-445U amp and Alpine PWE-S8 sub.

From Pacparts I ordered the main harness, T-harness, power cable (from battery to sub) and bracket for under the front passenger seat sub placement.

A few thoughts/comments:

Don't over think it - It's easier than it looks with regard to popping panels and fishing wire. Just be sure and don't skimp by using a screwdriver to pop the panels. Use the plastic auto body/panel tools as they make it simple and won't damage the interior.

One of the hardest aspects of the installation was trying to figure out how the F*#K to unclip the various stock wire harnesses under the passenger seat and at the head unit. More time was spent on Youtub trying to figure out how to unclip them than time spent on just about anything else! Still not sure how I did it, but i did it... bloody fingers to prove it.

With the sub/bracket combo it was necessary to trim the rear passenger Mopar all-weather floor mat as it extends too far under the seat and was rubbing on the sub. Just used snips to trim it.

I installed the remote sub gain control pot from the sub over/under to the driver side. One thing to note about that is the sub gain control you have is relative to the sub gain set on the sub. Meaning, if the sub gain is set to the 3 o'clock position then via the external pot you only have ability to adjust from zero to 3 o'clock. So, what I'm going to do I think is to set the sub gain to 12 o'clock and adjust down to 3 o'clock so I have some room should I want to boost the gain.

Lastly, the instructions for the amp and sub say to follow their diagram for gain positions and dip switch positions.

With regard to the dip switches on the amp - The diagram says to turn OFF the front and rear high pass filter... Doing this will give you a very muddy sound and completely negate the need for a sub. For the front and rear, set the HPF to 80hz and you'll really hear the punch. I was trying to be a good soldier and follow the very explicit instructions and I was really disappointed until I went back to my roots of removing my own training wheels and dialed the sound in nicely with 80Hz on both HPFs.

On that note I called Crutchfield and asked why both Alpine and Crutchfield say to set the HPF to off and they said, this way it gives the user the ability to adjust to taste.... What if the user doesn't know about HPF/LPF and just follows the instructions?? Why not just say that one can adjust to taste if needed...

Funny as I've been driving around all day with the passenger seat removed so I can continue adjusting... This can go on for weeks with me....

There is a really good youtube clip from Quadratec that does an excellent job with installation instruction for this kind of set up. It really can be applied to any components for install.

Still have all stock speakers, but waiting for Alpine SPE-6000 for the soundbar location and Infinity REF-3032CFX for the dash corners. I'm going to hold off on the knee speakers for now.

I'll keep you posted when I get the speakers installed.

Current settings:

Amp:
Front & rear gain - 3 o'clock
Front & rear HPF - 80Hz
Input - 4ch./spkr input

Sub:
LPF 80Hz (btw, anything above 80Hz is going to start to really muddy your midrange as it's going to try and use the sub for mid-range freqs. Try experimenting with <80Hz settings and you'll really hear a difference.
Gain - 3 o'clock
Power mode - REMote

That's about it for now.... Hope this helps as others on this post have helped me!
 

beaups

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Hey all, just thought I'd check in and say thanks for all the info on this and associated posts!

So, yesterday on my stock JLU Sport-S w/7" stock head unit, I installed the Alpine KTP-445U amp and Alpine PWE-S8 sub.

From Pacparts I ordered the main harness, T-harness, power cable (from battery to sub) and bracket for under the front passenger seat sub placement.

A few thoughts/comments:

Don't over think it - It's easier than it looks with regard to popping panels and fishing wire. Just be sure and don't skimp by using a screwdriver to pop the panels. Use the plastic auto body/panel tools as they make it simple and won't damage the interior.

One of the hardest aspects of the installation was trying to figure out how the F*#K to unclip the various stock wire harnesses under the passenger seat and at the head unit. More time was spent on Youtub trying to figure out how to unclip them than time spent on just about anything else! Still not sure how I did it, but i did it... bloody fingers to prove it.

With the sub/bracket combo it was necessary to trim the rear passenger Mopar all-weather floor mat as it extends too far under the seat and was rubbing on the sub. Just used snips to trim it.

I installed the remote sub gain control pot from the sub over/under to the driver side. One thing to note about that is the sub gain control you have is relative to the sub gain set on the sub. Meaning, if the sub gain is set to the 3 o'clock position then via the external pot you only have ability to adjust from zero to 3 o'clock. So, what I'm going to do I think is to set the sub gain to 12 o'clock and adjust down to 3 o'clock so I have some room should I want to boost the gain.

Lastly, the instructions for the amp and sub say to follow their diagram for gain positions and dip switch positions.

With regard to the dip switches on the amp - The diagram says to turn OFF the front and rear high pass filter... Doing this will give you a very muddy sound and completely negate the need for a sub. For the front and rear, set the HPF to 80hz and you'll really hear the punch. I was trying to be a good soldier and follow the very explicit instructions and I was really disappointed until I went back to my roots of removing my own training wheels and dialed the sound in nicely with 80Hz on both HPFs.

On that note I called Crutchfield and asked why both Alpine and Crutchfield say to set the HPF to off and they said, this way it gives the user the ability to adjust to taste.... What if the user doesn't know about HPF/LPF and just follows the instructions?? Why not just say that one can adjust to taste if needed...

Funny as I've been driving around all day with the passenger seat removed so I can continue adjusting... This can go on for weeks with me....

There is a really good youtube clip from Quadratec that does an excellent job with installation instruction for this kind of set up. It really can be applied to any components for install.

Still have all stock speakers, but waiting for Alpine SPE-6000 for the soundbar location and Infinity REF-3032CFX for the dash corners. I'm going to hold off on the knee speakers for now.

I'll keep you posted when I get the speakers installed.

Current settings:

Amp:
Front & rear gain - 3 o'clock
Front & rear HPF - 80Hz
Input - 4ch./spkr input

Sub:
LPF 80Hz (btw, anything above 80Hz is going to start to really muddy your midrange as it's going to try and use the sub for mid-range freqs. Try experimenting with <80Hz settings and you'll really hear a difference.
Gain - 3 o'clock
Power mode - REMote

That's about it for now.... Hope this helps as others on this post have helped me!
I just did the same install including pacparts harnesses and brackets. Only difference is my install was I have the 5" radio. In my (2 door) I didn't feel like futzing with those seat harnesses and was able to tilt the seat back far enough (barely) to install without removing the seat.

I followed the instructions on the alpine site and it does indicate to use the 120hz HPF on both front and rear (left 4 switches down). Considering these are really low end 3.5" (?) drivers I think 120hz is a good call. Although I think there are also filters on the speakers themselves also...so perhaps it's going to be a really sharp cutoff with that setting? If/when I upgrade the midrange drivers I will consider backing that HPF down to 80hz.

I also set the sub gain slightly higher than recommended and find I have plenty of range with the dial without introducing any issues.

edit: actually you're right, the instructions do state to leave the HPF off, I misunderstood the diagrams. I suspect it's due to capacitors being on the stock speakers themselves. I do know for sure the dash speakers have them.
 

Winesmile

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I just did the same install including pacparts harnesses and brackets. Only difference is my install was I have the 5" radio. In my (2 door) I didn't feel like futzing with those seat harnesses and was able to tilt the seat back far enough (barely) to install without removing the seat.

I followed the instructions on the alpine site and it does indicate to use the 120hz HPF on both front and rear (left 4 switches down). Considering these are really low end 3.5" (?) drivers I think 120hz is a good call. Although I think there are also filters on the speakers themselves also...so perhaps it's going to be a really sharp cutoff with that setting? If/when I upgrade the midrange drivers I will consider backing that HPF down to 80hz.

I also set the sub gain slightly higher than recommended and find I have plenty of range with the dial without introducing any issues.

edit: actually you're right, the instructions do state to leave the HPF off, I misunderstood the diagrams. I suspect it's due to capacitors being on the stock speakers themselves. I do know for sure the dash speakers have them.
Yea, the dip switch instructions are confusing from document to document. I too thought they were indicating 120Hz, and then realized they were indicating “off”.

120Hz for a 2-way is pretty drastic (relative to component sub/mid/high)

One thing as I was driving home from the office after writing my post is I feel for some reason the sub gain extension pot makes the sound wonky. I’ll make an adjustment and it won’t so very clear and I’ll reach over and pull the 3.5mm jack from the sub and boom, back to sounding good again.

it may be wise for me to leave the seat out for another day and make adjustments until it’s best for all sound situations and just leave off the gain extension pot.

On a side note, removing the sub gain control will allow me to pride myself in a job well done and not constantly futz with the gain.

And! As an added benefit, my wife won’t have to endure my constant question of, “what sounds better to you, this, or, this??” Oh really I say?? What about this?? Her: sounds fine... really I say?? You think that sounds better than THIS?? Her: Sounds fine. ME: Are you not paying attention to this I say?? There is no way that that sounds better... Her: Jay, STOP!
 

beaups

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Yea, the dip switch instructions are confusing from document to document. I too thought they were indicating 120Hz, and then realized they were indicating “off”.

120Hz for a 2-way is pretty drastic (relative to component sub/mid/high)

One thing as I was driving home from the office after writing my post is I feel for some reason the sub gain extension pot makes the sound wonky. I’ll make an adjustment and it won’t so very clear and I’ll reach over and pull the 3.5mm jack from the sub and boom, back to sounding good again.

it may be wise for me to leave the seat out for another day and make adjustments until it’s best for all sound situations and just leave off the gain extension pot.

On a side note, removing the sub gain control will allow me to pride myself in a job well done and not constantly futz with the gain.

And! As an added benefit, my wife won’t have to endure my constant question of, “what sounds better to you, this, or, this??” Oh really I say?? What about this?? Her: sounds fine... really I say?? You think that sounds better than THIS?? Her: Sounds fine. ME: Are you not paying attention to this I say?? There is no way that that sounds better... Her: Jay, STOP!
The on-sub controls can easily be changed after sliding the seat all the way forward. At least on my 2 door. Just need a really short screwdriver or something like that to turn the knobs.

Concern with enabling HPF is doubling the filters due to on-speaker filters. In that case you'd have a really sharp (24db?) cutoff
 

Winesmile

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The on-sub controls can easily be changed after sliding the seat all the way forward. At least on my 2 door. Just need a really short screwdriver or something like that to turn the knobs.

Concern with enabling HPF is doubling the filters due to on-speaker filters. In that case you'd have a really sharp (24db?) cutoff
I added my Infinity REF-3032cfx to the dash corners and the sound when from nicely balanced to very sharp and bright - And not in a good way.... Nothing changed on the sub/amp settings prior in adding in the corners. May need put the stock back in and A/B a bit. Getting a bit of ear fatigue yesterday.
 

beaups

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I added my Infinity REF-3032cfx to the dash corners and the sound when from nicely balanced to very sharp and bright - And not in a good way.... Nothing changed on the sub/amp settings prior in adding in the corners. May need put the stock back in and A/B a bit. Getting a bit of ear fatigue yesterday.
I tried the dart kickers in the dash and had the exact same experience. Both before and after upgrading with the alpine stuff. I *think* the issue is the stock speakers in the corners are 8 ohms (8 ohm dash + 8 ohm knee = 4 ohm front channel load) and when replaced with 4 ohm tweeters it's too much/unbalanced.
 

Winesmile

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I tried the dart kickers in the dash and had the exact same experience. Both before and after upgrading with the alpine stuff. I *think* the issue is the stock speakers in the corners are 8 ohms (8 ohm dash + 8 ohm knee = 4 ohm front channel load) and when replaced with 4 ohm tweeters it's too much/unbalanced.
Ha! I didn't listen to my own advice. You have to move the dip switches for 120Hz for the front. Keep the rears at 80Hz assuming you're keeping or upgrading to 6.5" speakers in the soundbar.

Once I got me dips correct it sounds great!
 

sandor.g

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Running the power cable from the battery underneath the chassis to the entry hole under the passenger seat.
Honestly, I feel like that was one half assed idea from Alpine. Running the power wire through the drain plug is not the smartest idea, let alone running a power wire exposed to any damage when off-roading.
I’d understand the idea if there was absolutely no way to penetrate through the firewall on the passenger side, but there is and you can do a much nicer job in terms of cable routing.

I’ve had this installed for a few months now and I’m not satisfied with the system.
It’s okay for those, who want some improvement over the factory system, but I expected maybe a little more.
I have replaced the front and soundbar speakers to 6.5 components and will be ripping this system out next weekend.

I’ll be spending a little more than $850 on the overall system but it will be worth it.
 

beaups

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Honestly, I feel like that was one half assed idea from Alpine. Running the power wire through the drain plug is not the smartest idea, let alone running a power wire exposed to any damage when off-roading.
I’d understand the idea if there was absolutely no way to penetrate through the firewall on the passenger side, but there is and you can do a much nicer job in terms of cable routing.

I’ve had this installed for a few months now and I’m not satisfied with the system.
It’s okay for those, who want some improvement over the factory system, but I expected maybe a little more.
I have replaced the front and soundbar speakers to 6.5 components and will be ripping this system out next weekend.

I’ll be spending a little more than $850 on the overall system but it will be worth it.
I thought the same thing but once you get under the rig and run the wire you'll see the design is fine and it's no more exposed than the harness it's sitting next to. The wire sits on top of the frame and between the body, right next to another harness. I put a loom around it and zip tied to another harness for good measure but I do believe the design is fine.
 

sandor.g

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I thought the same thing but once you get under the rig and run the wire you'll see the design is fine and it's no more exposed than the harness it's sitting next to. The wire sits on top of the frame and between the body, right next to another harness. I put a loom around it and zip tied to another harness for good measure but I do believe the design is fine.
well, it’s fine as long as you don’t want to use the MOPAR floor liners, which sit so much better than the other ones I’ve seen.
To install those floor liners, you would have to remove the factory carpets, the floor carpet cutout, remove the rubber drain plug (that you have to penetrate through with the power wire according to the Alpine manual), install the liner and install the drain plug in the liner.
I wanted those liners so I did pull the power wire through the firewall and tucked it nicely under the door sill trim piece to keep it away from the speaker wires as much as possible.
 

beaups

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well, it’s fine as long as you don’t want to use the MOPAR floor liners, which sit so much better than the other ones I’ve seen.
To install those floor liners, you would have to remove the factory carpets, the floor carpet cutout, remove the rubber drain plug (that you have to penetrate through with the power wire according to the Alpine manual), install the liner and install the drain plug in the liner.
I wanted those liners so I did pull the power wire through the firewall and tucked it nicely under the door sill trim piece to keep it away from the speaker wires as much as possible.
I'm in a 2 door, so it could be different for a 4 door. But the plug is *not* the drain plug that the floor liners interface with. It's actually underneath a couple layers of carpet under the seat itself. In fact, on my 2 door the rear Mopar liner won't be reinstallable without modification. Not due to the drain plug, but rather the sub and bracket itself.
 

sandor.g

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I'm in a 2 door, so it could be different for a 4 door. But the plug is *not* the drain plug that the floor liners interface with. It's actually underneath a couple layers of carpet under the seat itself. In fact, on my 2 door the rear Mopar liner won't be reinstallable without modification. Not due to the drain plug, but rather the sub and bracket itself.
hmmm, I have to admit, I have read the drawings wrong.
You are right, the grommet the manual refers to is under the seat. I may have seen an installation video that was wrong or I may be just simply stupid.
Oh well
 

beaups

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hmmm, I have to admit, I have read the drawings wrong.
You are right, the grommet the manual refers to is under the seat. I may have seen an installation video that was wrong or I may be just simply stupid.
Oh well
For what it's worth, I initially also thought the same thing and planned to run the wire another way, until I saw the plug myself. Obviously you can't go wrong by using the passenger side firew all instead. I just wanted to make it clear for others considering this upgrade.
 
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