Aftermarket Driveshaft Mega Thread…Buyer Beware

[GATORB8]

Is the single Cardan joint somewhat aligned at ride height?

While the double cardon makes the decline start further from the T-case, still a good angle at the axle on mine with a 3.5 and stock DS. Caster at 6*

Edit: The more I think about it. Both 1350 SC and DC probably do impact the angle pretty good by squeezing the intermediate shaft shorter.

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[aggiechris]

What issues are you having with the xd60s?

 

[MSparks909]

What issues are you having with the xd60s?

Been trying to get the rear speed sensors to read for over 6 weeks now, think I have the wrong rear hubs (speed sensors are machined into the hubs). Dynatrac is working with me they’re just super slow. Received the wrong steering linkages, waited 2 weeks for that. Didn’t receive any locker wiring kits or the parking brake kit. Wish I would have bought UD60s. More details in my build thread.

 

[rkwfxd]

Doubt this will help the OP but I'll post it just so folks can have the info.

All measurements by me in my garage with my phone and a magnetic angle finder.

My stock 21 Rubicon had 5* of caster. Drove fine.

I added the front LCAs from the MOPAR lift (0.25" longer than stock) which put my caster at 7*. Drove better on the freeway.

I then added 2.5" MC GC lift with the MC front DS. MC recommends running the front LCAs at stock length and shortening the front UCAs by 0.5". I chose to set my LCAs at +0.25" and my UCAs at -0.25" to get the same 0.5" difference but in theory by rotating the axle around its center axis instead of just leaning it back. This set my caster at 6*. Still drives great. I also have the SteerSmart sector shaft brace and the FAD. No vibes at all and tracks straight as an arrow. I have to be careful on the way home from runs. If I'm not paying attention I find myself creeping up to 80+ mph because it is so smooth and stable, and this is in a 2 door.

 

[MSparks909]

Doubt this will help the OP but I'll post it just so folks can have the info.

All measurements by me in my garage with my phone and a magnetic angle finder.

My stock 21 Rubicon had 5* of caster. Drove fine.

I added the front LCAs from the MOPAR lift (0.25" longer than stock) which put my caster at 7*. Drove better on the freeway.

I then added 2.5" MC GC lift with the MC front DS. MC recommends running the front LCAs at stock length and shortening the front UCAs by 0.5". I chose to set my LCAs at +0.25" and my UCAs at -0.25" to get the same 0.5" difference but in theory by rotating the axle around its center axis instead of just leaning it back. This set my caster at 6*. Still drives great. I also have the SteerSmart sector shaft brace and the FAD. No vibes at all and tracks straight as an arrow. I have to be careful on the way home from runs. If I'm not paying attention I find myself creeping up to 80+ mph because it is so smooth and stable, and this is in a 2 door.

Since you have a 2 door I’m assuming you have the FAD…the 392 front driveshaft spins all the time because it’s AWD…hence the vibe issue some of us are getting.

 

[rkwfxd]

Since you have a 2 door I’m assuming you have the FAD…the 392 front driveshaft spins all the time because it’s AWD…hence the vibe issue some of us are getting.

Yes Sir. I mentioned that in my post. I know it doesn't really help the OP but I thought someone somewhere searching might like to know the measurements I got with my mods.

Threads like this make me think twice about eliminating the FAD on mine.

 

[supermike]

So what front drive shaft are you guys went with?
My front shaft is gone spinning grease at the transfer case end...

dealer refuse to work on it, saying transfer case is good, my lift kit cause the drive shaft boots to fail.

 

[GATORB8]

So what front drive shaft are you guys went with?
My front shaft is gone spinning grease at the transfer case end...

dealer refuse to work on it, saying transfer case is good, my lift kit cause the drive shaft boots to fail.

If you are good with 1310s, my price list is a little out of date, but Spicer with Northridge forum discount was the cheapest off the shelf.

Best price I found for a custom 1310 was Oliver's.

 

[supermike]

If you are good with 1310s, my price list is a little out of date, but Spicer with Northridge forum discount was the cheapest off the shelf.

Best price I found for a custom 1310 was Oliver's.

1310 1350 I’m good with them all. I’m thinking adams 1350 from northridge4x4 they are in stock. Just wondering how the fit. Because they say it’s not recommend it without fad?

 

[mgroeger]

1310 1350 I’m good with them all. I’m thinking adams 1350 from northridge4x4 they are in stock. Just wondering how the fit. Because they say it’s not recommend it without fad?

If you got rid of your FAD you may have problems. My old JL had the FAD removed and I put a 1350 up front and immediately got vibrations. Adam's said my pinion angle was not correct and that I either needed to put the FAD back in or get all four front control arms adjustable to dial it in. It was cheaper to put the FAD back in so that's what I did.

 

[supermike]

If you got rid of your FAD you may have problems. My old JL had the FAD removed and I put a 1350 up front and immediately got vibrations. Adam's said my pinion angle was not correct and that I either needed to put the FAD back in or get all four front control arms adjustable to dial it in. It was cheaper to put the FAD back in so that's what I did.

so sad I don’t have fad from factory to begin With. That’s I’m asking people end up with.

 

[AnnDee4444]

I'm surprised they even sell a driveshaft with a CV on one end and a traditional U-joint on the other. You would have a better chance getting two properly phased U-joints to run smoothly and still be able to retain some caster. I think it should also work better with any suspension travel. Two CVs would be best.

Basically what's happening is the U-joint (aka cardon joint) is speeding up and slowing down the shaft (see video below). If the shaft had a second U-joint at the opposite end, it would be rotated 90 degrees to undo the effects of the first joint. This is also assuming that the joint angles are kept equal but opposite as well (allowing the pinion to be pointed parallel to the transfer case output. A CV (which stands for Constant Velocity) doesn't have this speeding up/slowing down effect, which is why two together would also work fine. But to mix one and the other? The only way this will operate smoothly is if the U-joint has zero angle... which screws the caster.

Related video, see 0:28 - 0:55

Found another good video:

 

[GATORB8]

If you got rid of your FAD you may have problems. My old JL had the FAD removed and I put a 1350 up front and immediately got vibrations. Adam's said my pinion angle was not correct and that I either needed to put the FAD back in or get all four front control arms adjustable to dial it in. It was cheaper to put the FAD back in so that's what I did.

No FAD on the 392.

 

[mgroeger]

No FAD on the 392.

Oops my bad, I didn't know he was rich.

 

[supermike]

Oops my bad, I didn't know he was rich.

im not rich I’m just irresponsible.

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