Adding Extra Lighting....Wiring Question (Kind of Embarrassed LOL)

[The Fixer]

Hey all,
I'm getting ready to add some KC spotlights and have a wiring question. I have to admit, I'm a little embarrassed to ask, but I've never used one of these Add-a-Circuit Fuse Tap things to trigger a relay , so I want to be sure I'm using it correctly before I fry something.

The KC lights come with their own harness and relay. I am planning to connect the ring terminals on the KC harness for power and ground to the battery connections, and then I have to get 12v from a switched source to trigger the relay. So, the way I understand how this works is, you plug the fuse tap into the fuse box, then run the trigger wire from the relay to the fuse tap, right? Is it really that simple?

Since I have a base Sport with soft top, I'm ~assuming~ I will have empty fuses at, say F12 (amplifier), F21 (rear wiper), or F40 (axle lock). I'm just looking at the fuse box diagram now, I haven't verified if there is actually 12v already at those locations, but I'm assuming someone else has already BTDT and can clue me in.

I've done some homework on where to go through the firewall for the switch wiring...since I have an auto, I'll most likely go through the grommet next to the brake booster. Are there any other suggestions or things I need to look out for before I dive into this project next week?

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[Rhinebeck01]

Hey all,
I'm getting ready to add some KC spotlights and have a wiring question. I have to admit, I'm a little embarrassed to ask, but I've never used one of these Add-a-Circuit Fuse Tap things to trigger a relay , so I want to be sure I'm using it correctly before I fry something.

The KC lights come with their own harness and relay. I am planning to connect the ring terminals on the KC harness for power and ground to the battery connections, and then I have to get 12v from a switched source to trigger the relay. So, the way I understand how this works is, you plug the fuse tap into the fuse box, then run the trigger wire from the relay to the fuse tap, right? Is it really that simple?

Since I have a base Sport with soft top, I'm ~assuming~ I will have empty fuses at, say F12 (amplifier), F21 (rear wiper), or F40 (axle lock). I'm just looking at the fuse box diagram now, I haven't verified if there is actually 12v already at those locations, but I'm assuming someone else has already BTDT and can clue me in.

I've done some homework on where to go through the firewall for the switch wiring...since I have an auto, I'll most likely go through the grommet next to the brake booster. Are there any other suggestions or things I need to look out for before I dive into this project next week?

@The Fixer

Use "one of these Add-a-Circuit Fuse Tap things" as you call it, in/with a fuse slot in the power distribution center.

You could use that fuse tap wherever, but I suggest you use F57 or F58 which are for the heated seats if you had them..

F57 or F58 are 20amp ....... Use no more then a 20 amp fuse in either of thoses. Your KC light harness has an inline fuse that is fused at what KC knows is best and that inline fuse will provide proper protection for your KC's

As for the ground.... nah, don't ground on the battery negative... No reason to do that. Just ground to a handy point that is known to be a good ground. See pic below for a decent grounding point that is easily accessible, not painted, and the bolt there will undo easily without breaking.. easily accessible, not painted, etc..

 

[Gregj]

Or FCA was kind enough to provide many points to ground to all over the vehicle, there is one in the photo.

Gregj

 

[The Fixer]

@The Fixer

Use "one of these Add-a-Circuit Fuse Tap things" as you call it, in/with a fuse slot in the power distribution center.

You could use that fuse tap wherever, but I suggest you use F57 or F58 which are for the heated seats if you had them..

F57 or F58 are 20amp ....... Use no more then a 20 amp fuse in either of thoses. Your KC light harness has an inline fuse that is fused at what KC knows is best and that inline fuse will provide proper protection for your KC's

As for the ground.... nah, don't ground on the battery negative... No reason to do that. Just ground to a handy point that is known to be a good ground. See pic below for a decent grounding point that is easily accessible, not painted, and the bolt there will undo easily without breaking.. easily accessible, not painted, etc..

Thank you @Rhinebeck01 and @Gregj ! I was actually planning to use one of the posts you gentlemen showed in those pics, instead of using the battery negative terminal....I'll check to see which one will fit the ring terminal that's on the KC harness.

I'll probably have some time tomorrow to probe the fuse box to see which one (if any) of my unused fuses have 12v coming into them. Will check the heated seat fuses mentioned, along with the multitude of other options my JL does ~not~ have (power windows, rear defroster, rear wiper, etc. etc.)

 

[The Fixer]

So, as a follow-up to my original post, we did some checking in the fuse box. I was surprised to find that even though I have a base Sport, most of the "unused" circuits still have power, and fuses already in place. For example, F57 and F58 that @Rhinebeck01 mentioned are there, and have 12v when running, even though my Jeep doesn't have heated seats. And the 25 amp fuse for the "HiFi Amplifier" is also there, and activated in accessory mode. I just have the base 5" radio, no factory amp installed.

Once I run the fuse tap, does anyone have a tip on where to pass the wire out of the fuse box? I saw a notch on the cover by the last leg of the buss bar closest to the firewall but I'm not sure if a wire could go out that way without getting pinched.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

So, as a follow-up to my original post, we did some checking in the fuse box. I was surprised to find that even though I have a base Sport, most of the "unused" circuits still have power, and fuses already in place. For example, F57 and F58 that @Rhinebeck01 mentioned are there, and have 12v when running, even though my Jeep doesn't have heated seats. And the 25 amp fuse for the "HiFi Amplifier" is also there, and activated in accessory mode. I just have the base 5" radio, no factory amp installed.

Once I run the fuse tap, does anyone have a tip on where to pass the wire out of the fuse box? I saw a notch on the cover by the last leg of the buss bar closest to the firewall but I'm not sure if a wire could go out that way without getting pinched.

@The Fixer

Run the wire out of the power distribution center (PDC) out of the side of the PDC farthest from the passenger side fender.

As long as your wire is not too big a gauge you can run the wire out, and the cover has room / will bend the wire down (that won't hurt it / damage the wire/ cause issues) enough that the PDC cover will still close and lock. Do not cut/notch the PDC cover.

When I mentioned F57 and F58 in the earlier post I knew there would be fuses in place on your Sport...

.

 

[The Fixer]

@The Fixer

Run the wire out of the power distribution center (PDC) out of the side of the PDC farthest from the passenger side fender.

As long as your wire is not too big a gauge you can run the wire out, and the cover has room / will bend the wire down (that won't hurt it / damage the wire/ cause issues) enough that the PDC cover will still close and lock. Do not cut/notch the PDC cover.

When I mentioned F57 and F58 in the earlier post I knew there would be fuses in place on your Sport...

.

That is great, thank you for the tip! Will keep you updated when I finally get around to installing them...seems like every weekend some other thing happens that needs my attention besides those lights.

 

[The Fixer]

Alright, I will finally get to finish installing these lights today! Yesterday I put up the Christmas decorations with my daughter and helped my son install a new wheel bearing on his Liberty so I have no other responsibilities for this weekend. I started running the harness last night; drilled the hole in the plastic plug next to the booster on the firewall, ran the wires into the cabin for the switch, and routed the rest of the wires across the top of the cowl. My wife is working on a paper so I basically have the rest of the day to myself.

I'm going to use a fuse tap at F58 to supply 12v the white wire seen in this diagram - KC Hilites Wiring Diagram

Am I correct in assuming I can now shorten the white wire and remove the existing 3A fuse that is currently in the KC harness, since it will have a 20A fuse from the tap?

 

[Gregj]

That white wire is the trigger wire for the relay, I would leave the fuse in because it goes through the firewall. Doesn’t need a whole lot of current anyway. You can shorten it if it will make the install cleaner. Or just swap out the fuse in F58 for a lower amp fuse and remove the other fuse.
Gregj

 

[Gregj]

Or the fuse tap has a separate fuse for the second circuit, so just put a low amp fuse there and remove the one in the white wire.
Gregj

 

[Gregj]

I'm going to use a fuse tap at F58 to supply 12v the white wire seen in this diagram - KC Hilites Wiring Diagram

Am I correct in assuming I can now shorten the white wire and remove the existing 3A fuse that is currently in the KC harness, since it will have a 20A fuse from the tap?

Your on the right track here just swap the 20 amp for a lower rated one.
Gregj

 

[The Fixer]

Your on the right track here just swap the 20 amp for a lower rated one.
Gregj

@Gregj thanks!! There is a spare 10A fuse in the box, so I will put that one in on the side that runs to the relay and leave the 20A on the bottom for the original circuit.

 

[oceanblue2019]

@The Fixer

Use "one of these Add-a-Circuit Fuse Tap things" as you call it, in/with a fuse slot in the power distribution center.

You could use that fuse tap wherever, but I suggest you use F57 or F58 which are for the heated seats if you had them..

F57 or F58 are 20amp ....... Use no more then a 20 amp fuse in either of thoses. Your KC light harness has an inline fuse that is fused at what KC knows is best and that inline fuse will provide proper protection for your KC's

As for the ground.... nah, don't ground on the battery negative... No reason to do that. Just ground to a handy point that is known to be a good ground. See pic below for a decent grounding point that is easily accessible, not painted, and the bolt there will undo easily without breaking.. easily accessible, not painted, etc..

Why would you use that as a ground where a proper ground point is less than 2 inches away?

 

[Rhinebeck01]

Or FCA was kind enough to provide many points to ground to all over the vehicle, there is one in the photo.

Gregj

@Gregj

Yes, lots of decent grounding points in that general vicinity....

In the pic above, either the one pointed to with the red arrow or the one pointed to with the yellow are known to be good, grounding points..

For a number of reasons, I tell guys/gals here on the forum and say locally..... to ....out of the two, of a few, known to be good ground points in that vicinity........ to just use the one pointed to with the yellow arrow..


Reasons.... First off the bolt/grounding bolt you point to with the red arrow is known to snap off fairly easily.... also, more often then not it covered with paint/over spray and needs clean up if you want to use.... I mentioned this in an earlier post.....

Another reason not to use the one pointed to with the red arrow is ....since the factory has used that ground point, you would probably be far better off just leaving it be....

Why/because, if your vehicle has issues the Service Dept, Tech will/may say/claim that your aftermarket install .... you fooled with or near factory wiring/connections was the cause/probable cause, etc., ....and they want to troubleshoot on your dime...

I learned long ago to keep add on electrical goodies separated from factory wiring and ground points, etc..

....and to keep my aftermarket installs very easy for a Tech to see ...to figure out.....

.... or take the chance that the vehicle under warranty still, will have a Tech crying foul so to speak because of the add on..... With that said I also try not to ... unless no other way to bastardize factory wiring/connections..

Anyway, the ground pointed to with the yellow arrow is a known to be good ground point... The bolts are easily accessible, are not painted, will not snap off and nothing is grounded there / attached there by the factory...

Sure, the factory has a few ground points right handy there.... they are using most... sure you could also pile on to one of those ground points.... but why would you... Makes little sense when you have other grounding points right there...

To each his own.... my experience leads me to proceed with elec. installs as I mentioned...

LoL ......at the mention earlier of "A proper grounding point" .....

 

[Gregj]

@Gregj

Yes, lots of decent grounding points in that general vicinity....

In the pic above, either the one pointed to with the red arrow or the one pointed to with the yellow are known to be good, grounding points..

For a number of reasons, I tell guys/gals here on the forum and say locally..... to ....out of the two, of a few, known to be good ground points in that vicinity........ to just use the one pointed to with the yellow arrow..


Reasons.... First off the bolt/grounding bolt you point to with the red arrow is known to snap off fairly easily.... also, more often then not it covered with paint/over spray and needs clean up if you want to use.... I mentioned this in an earlier post.....

Another reason not to use the one pointed to with the red arrow is ....since the factory has used that ground point, you would probably be far better off just leaving it be....

Why/because, if your vehicle has issues the Service Dept, Tech will/may say/claim that your aftermarket install .... you fooled with or near factory wiring/connections was the cause/probable cause, etc., ....and they want to troubleshoot on your dime...

I learned long ago to keep add on electrical goodies separated from factory wiring and ground points, etc..

....and to keep my aftermarket installs very easy for a Tech to see ...to figure out.....

.... or take the chance that the vehicle under warranty still, will have a Tech crying foul so to speak because of the add on..... With that said I also try not to ... unless no other way to bastardize factory wiring/connections..

Anyway, the ground pointed to with the yellow arrow is a known to be good ground point... The bolts are easily accessible, are not painted, will not snap off and nothing is grounded there / attached there by the factory...

Sure, the factory has a few ground points right handy there.... they are using most... sure you could also pile on to one of those ground points.... but why would you... Makes little sense when you have other grounding points right there...

To each his own.... my experience leads me to proceed with elec. installs as I mentioned...

LoL ......at the mention earlier of "A proper grounding point" .....

Most all of those nuts were put on before the body was painted, so no paint under them. If they are twisting off then likely they are being tightened too much, they aren’t very big fasteners. There are many of them on the Jeep, not all are being used, but I sort of see your point about disturbing factory connections.
Gregj

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