Sorry if this was covered later in this thread, but I mainly just used your great directions for JSCAN settings for switching to DRL LEDs. When I finished all the settings everything was working, but I didn't have an option for my DRLs on the radio despite it being labeled as "Optional".I really liked the look of the high top painted rubicon fenders, especially with the LED turn signals to match the LED headlights that come on the Willys. So, I added them. Here’s what I did.
First, I sourced a used set of painted fenders off a Rubicon. They were $400 on Craigslist, in good enough shape. What I sadly didn’t see until I got them home was that whoever removed them was an ape and cut the turn signal wiring about halfway back inside the fender. Bummer.
I figured I’d go the DIY route for painting the fenders using the Mopar rattle can paint and SprayMax 2k high gloss clear coat. I am not sure I recommend this method, as it ended up taking 13(!!) cans of the Mopar paint to get the job done. The Mopar paint says it does not need clear coat, but that’s a lie. It does not have a very nice finish. So I also used 6 cans of really nice clear coat to finish it up. The final product is pretty damn good, but it was about $225 in paint. Still, cheaper than what body shops were quoting me for the job, though, which was $200 to $300 per fender.
Mounting on the car was dead simple, just like any guide out there for removing and replacing the fenders.
Wiring to make the LEDs work as expected was pretty easy too with the right components. I did have to buy a programmer. I did not want to spend the money for a Tazer, so I went the iPhone App route. I got the JSCAN app (free app to view, $18.99 license in-app purchase to save changes), vGate iCar Pro BLE 4 ($29, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071D8SYXN?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title) and the Chrysler 12+8 cable to get around the OBD security gateway ($37, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07W4YF2H7?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title). All in, $85 for a device that seems to be functionally similar to the tazer, you just use your phone to change the settings. More money saved for more Jeep toys!
Since my wires were unfortunately cut, I spliced them into my existing halogen harness. If your turn signal harness is the complete Rubicon harness, and you have five wires on the body side of the fender harness - this is plug and play. In my case the halogen fender harness was missing one wire, the wire that goes to the DRLs. Now, my car had the wire on the body harness side for the DRL, white/yellow on the left, white/blue on the right. I am not sure if a normal sport or sport S has the wire on the body side, it would be interesting for someone to confirm. If not, then the Willys has it because the Willys has half the LED package (headlights, not fenders). But, since I had the wire on the body side, I just tee spliced into it and ran a wire along side the fender harness to the proper wire at the turn signal. I also tee’d in the yellow/brown wire (bulb fault wire) into the side marker wire, from all my research it seems like that’s how it is on the Rubi harness. If you have a cut rubi harness too, PM me and I can give you more detail on how I wired it up if you need help.
At this point, the fender LEDs worked for blinkers and the dim white LEDs would come on when the park lights or headlights were on. The lights were off when the headlights were in off or auto. Also, without programming, the blinkers would work for about a minute and then the system would report a bulb out and the hyper flash would start, and interestingly the computer would fully disable the whole front fender light assembly (amber and white lights) until the computer was cycled.
Onto programming - with the JSCAN app open, and the bypass cable plugged into the wires under the dash and above the OBD plug, and the iCar adapter plugged into the bypass cable, you’re ready to go. Press the ignition button until the car is in run, but don’t turn it on. In the app, connect to the car.
When you’re done setting all those, you’re going to be like me and jump out of the car super excited to see the bright white lights on! Only to be disappointed because they aren’t. But the headlight halos are. What the fuck? Oh...turns out, the bright white fender DRL lights only come on when the engine is running AND the e-brake is off. So I disconnected the app from the car, turned the car off, unplugged the bypass and plugged the wires back in under the dash, and had to jam a brick behind a wheel and start the engine and take the brake off and voila - the bright white LEDs were on.
- Go to adaptation
- Go to LED Lights Settings
- Go to LED Front Park/Marker Lamps settings and change to activate
- Go back, and go to LED Front Turn Lamps present, change to activate
- Go back twice, go to DRL Daytime Running Lights configuration. In here, there’s multiple things you have to change:
- DRL Configuration: Optional DRL
- DRL Dropout Enable: Active (turns off bright white lamp when amber is flashing)
- DRL Lamp Location: Dedicated
- LED Dedicated DRL Present: Active
- Left Dedicated DRL Lamps Output Present: Active
- Right Dedicated DRL Lamps Output Present: Active
Sweet!
I hope this helps some of you other adventurous Jeepers out there.
May i know what kind of OBD did you use with the JSCAN? Because as i know all JL will need a security gateway bypass cable to even have a chance of making changes in a JL.Sorry if this was covered later in this thread, but I mainly just used your great directions for JSCAN settings for switching to DRL LEDs. When I finished all the settings everything was working, but I didn't have an option for my DRLs on the radio despite it being labeled as "Optional".
I tried setting DRL -> DRL Customer Setting On/Off to On, but that still didn't add the option to the radio. Still seemed good to turn on.
Yesterday I was playing around with JSCAN and found another option: Radio User Settings -> Day Time Running Lights Settings On/Off. I turned that On, restarted the ECU, drove around for a while, and in a couple hours I finally got an option on my Radio for DRLs (under Lights).
This bypass cable and this Bluetooth OBD module is what I used.May i know what kind of OBD did you use with the JSCAN? Because as i know all JL will need a security gateway bypass cable to even have a chance of making changes in a JL.
They’re pretty tall. I actually just removed them today (going back to stock), so let me see if I can’t put them side by side or get a centerline measurement.You did a great job on paint/install! Looks good.
May I ask, you or any of the others that did the Rubi fender swap, did you do a before and after measurement? I’m curious how much higher the Rubicon fenders actually are.
Iv’e seen different claims of 2 to 2 1/2” but that doesn’t seem right to me. I was thinking 1 1/2 or so??
Actually, while we wait for me to do a measurement - here’s a good compare photo. Same lift (mopar) same wheels (stock willys) and close enough to the same angle. You can see the gap above the wheel is pretty big, and goofy looking. They’re also about two inches wider too, wide enough that they stick out further than stock wheels and I needed spacers to not look dumb until I got my aftermarket wheels. The 1st rubicon fender pic here is with those spacers, the second is withoutYou did a great job on paint/install! Looks good.
May I ask, you or any of the others that did the Rubi fender swap, did you do a before and after measurement? I’m curious how much higher the Rubicon fenders actually are.
Iv’e seen different claims of 2 to 2 1/2” but that doesn’t seem right to me. I was thinking 1 1/2 or so??
Covered in other threads better, but I think the most modern approach is to buy the ECRI bypass module (Amazon), a OBD reader recommended by JSCAN (see their site, buy on Amazon), and a Z-Automotive SGW extension cable (go on their site). That was the combo I used.May i know what kind of OBD did you use with the JSCAN? Because as i know all JL will need a security gateway bypass cable to even have a chance of making changes in a JL.
Unfortunately I didn't do any specific measurements. The best comparison pictures I have from the front and side are in this post. The only thing I changed was the fenders, everything else was the same:You did a great job on paint/install! Looks good.
May I ask, you or any of the others that did the Rubi fender swap, did you do a before and after measurement? I’m curious how much higher the Rubicon fenders actually are.
Iv’e seen different claims of 2 to 2 1/2” but that doesn’t seem right to me. I was thinking 1 1/2 or so??
Thanks for the info.Sorry if this was covered later in this thread, but I mainly just used your great directions for JSCAN settings for switching to DRL LEDs. When I finished all the settings everything was working, but I didn't have an option for my DRLs on the radio despite it being labeled as "Optional".
I tried setting DRL -> DRL Customer Setting On/Off to On, but that still didn't add the option to the radio. Still seemed good to turn on.
Yesterday I was playing around with JSCAN and found another option: Radio User Settings -> Day Time Running Lights Settings On/Off. I turned that On, restarted the ECU, drove around for a while, and in a couple hours I finally got an option on my Radio for DRLs (under Lights).
Do you have another link for the Bluetooth OBD module? I tried to use that link and it says no longer valid.This bypass cable and this Bluetooth OBD module is what I used.
@Khost7Do you have another link for the Bluetooth OBD module? I tried to use that link and it says no longer valid.