Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

[ryan2100]

Where are you mounting the amp(s)?

under the front seat (I haven't decided if passenger or driver side though)

Sponsored

 

[Hpc3]

under the front seat (I haven't decided if passenger or driver side though)

I'd pick passenger side, closer to the stock speaker bar runs and sub. A lot of this will depend on what your driver/channel plans are. Maybe start with 75' for 5 channels... kind of a guess since I don't know what your plans are.

I'd plan on going under the carpet and up the center of the dash in front of the console. For dash runs you'll need 10' per side/channel (double this if you're doing separates - top dash and lower speaker pods separately). The stock speaker bar run goes up the B pillar on the passenger side but based on how many runs/speakers you're wiring plan on ~12-16' per run for 2 channels (minimum). Again it will depend on how many channels. The stock Sub location is 8-10' from the pass seat, assuming you're putting all the wiring behind the door surround plastics/carpet in the rear.

 

[botlfed98]

If you're planning on running new wires to each speaker, then leave it unhooked.

so w/PAC module can you leave factory speakers and not run off external amp, essentially just add sub/amp?

 

[Tank2112]

so w/PAC module can you leave factory speakers and not run off external amp, essentially just add sub/amp?

Yes

 

[SirMixalot]

I have read until I'm confused. All I want to do is add a sub + box and an amp to the factory system. Where do I tie in the LOC? Do I need a specific LOC? And just run the amp power to the battery passenger side? Remote from cigarette lighter? What else am I missing? Thank you for your help

 

[lashlee]

@SirMixalot It depends on what OEM system you have. If you have the non Alpine one you can tie onto any of the midbass speakers (either from the lower dash or the b pillar where the soundbar wiring is) to feed signal to the LOC. Depending on which LOC you choose, the better ones will have signal sense that will give you a remote output to turn the amp on.

If you have the Alpine, you can do the same as above or tie onto the sub signal going to the OEM sub.

Power goes up to the battery, I would use the grommet on the drivers side, but it depends on whats easier for you.

 

[SirMixalot]

I have the alpine system. Are you sure I can use the oem sub wiring for the LOC? I bought the audio control lc2i. Crutchfield said I have to use the oem amp output for the LOC but I do not have a diagram. I'm just wanting to add better bass ?

 

[ryan2100]

I am running my 4 gauge amp power wire through the firewall on the driver side grommet, where the clutch assembly goes on manuals. My question is, what is the best way to get the power wire from under the brake/gas pedal area to the passenger side seat, where my amp will be located.

through the dash? Through the center counsel?

 

[ryan2100]

I am running my 4 gauge amp power wire through the firewall on the driver side grommet, where the clutch assembly goes on manuals. My question is, what is the best way to get the power wire from under the brake/gas pedal area to the passenger side seat, where my amp will be located.

through the dash? Through the center counsel?

I figured it out. I ran it under the drivers seat and across under the center console. There is an opening for easy passage.

 

[oubbascooba]

Has anyone here tapped into the B-Pillar speaker wires on a 2024? Can you confirm the color coding is the same braded color coding as previous models? I don't want to accidently deploy an airbag in my rollbar or fry something. In 18-23, the wire color in the B-Pillar for the soundbar is (green/gray+, gray/darkgreen-, dark green/green+, darkgreen/gray-). BUT, i just upgraded my soundbar speakers, and the speaker wire in the soundbar itself differs from the colors listed above in the pillar. Example, Right side inside the soundbar is solid green and green and black stripe.

 

[Tank2112]

So I guess I'll share my latest update and why I asked the question earlier...

2024 Alpine system upgrade. Wanted to get a little more power as well as cleaner sound at higher volumes. PAC was not an option and didn't want to go the route of cutting out the stock alpine amp as I wanted to leave the existing sub and rears in place. So I tapped into the front tweeters and front mids. What I found was that from the tweeter channel got a pretty close full range signal with the lows having a weaker voltage reading. Used a Kicker KeyLOC to pull the signal and have it do its thing to clean up the signal. I then pull the mids speaker leads directly for the sub channel as my amp can take these inputs directly without a LOC.

Upgraded gear used:
- Kicker KeyLOC to grab front signal, clean it up and flatten stock curve as best as possible.
- Amp = JL Audio VX400/4i (bridged channels 3/4 for sub). Running components off single channel and factory crossovers.
- Front Components = Focal Slatefiber PS 165 SF
- Rear sub - Kicker L7 12" sealed box
- PAC Speaker Hardness to tap into existing wiring for the amp inputs
- Ran all new speaker wire....It's so easy, no excuses not to!

When running the power wire, strongly recommend the group do so through the firewall. I shared a video below I used as a reference to do so. I've seen a lot of people use or recommend going from underneath and using the drain plugs but if you ever find yourself in deep waters, I'm pretty sure you will regret that decision. I for one had to go get my son from school that was beginning to flood out and got in and out without any problems! You never know...

Taking apart the truck wasn't bad once you understand how it comes apart. However for the first time, what a PITA. On these new trucks, there are a couple screws both on the passenger and driver side that without certain tools will make it almost impossible to get it apart. Refer to the video shared below where it covers it. I had bad luck and before I put the truck back together while I did test the speakers, what I didn't test for was a defective speaker. My passenger woofer ended up having a bad coil at higher volumes. Got it swapped with a new replacement and all good now. So please do full test before putting the truck back together! Lastly in the video when the guy shows taking apart the passenger grab handle, do not take the rear cover completely off. It slides up but stays connected and clips back down when done. The way he ripped it off in the video is not recommended!

With some tuning after the install, got things working pretty well. The results were good. Since right now I am using the single amp to push both the front speakers and the sub, I found that the 200w RMS lacks in certain situations which is why I wanted to explore adding a 2nd amp to push the sub alone. I'm afraid that this will draw too much current and I will potentially run into problems with the new truck. Will be doing some research to see what I can find on this subject. If anyone has any advice on how to go about testing such a scenario, I would appreciate it. I was considering the Kicker CX1200.1 amp for this.

Conclusion:
- If I was to do it all over again, not sure I would go for the same speakers I have now. While the tweeters are amazing, I am really lacking mid-bass from these front woofers. I felt the stock ones pushed a lot more base than these currently do. The clarity of these speakers are amazing though so I'll take that over bass alone. The PODs also cause certain vibrations sounds at certain frequencies. Not sure if it's related to the speakers or the PODs themselves. Anyone else have this? Not happy about it...
- While I think the Kicker KeyLOC is doing the job for now, the signal is still crap past the 30-32 threshold (goes to 38). This could also be related to the lack of bass potentially. My goal is that once PAC comes out with something for the 2024's, I'm going to give that a go.
- For the bass lovers, adding the sub really makes all the difference. I would probably have been happy to keep the stock system and just adding the extra sub if that's all I had the money or time for.
- Replacing the front stage and using the DSP, it really has transformed the front stage of the truck. While the truck has it's limitations with it's speaker placements, at the end of the day I am enjoying my tunes in all cases (windows closed, windows/top open, doors off!)
- Future goals would be to get a stronger standalone amp for the sub if the truck can power it OR get a VX1000/7i to replace the current VX400 to go fully active and give the sub a little more power.

Lastly I took the design from the internet and created a 3D model to add the amp remote into the front cigarette outlet. Came out awesome and it really is a great location for such a thing, see picture below.


Here's some photos of the project.

Resources used:

Issue with lack luster mid-bass from front knee drivers is limited size of enclosure. That’s why factory ported the enclosure. Maybe look into porting new enclosure, may have to get creative, but possible.

 

[Cagle]

Thank you all for the great information. I just wanted to jump on here and confirm that the PAC
AP4-CH41 (R.2) With the AP4-CH42 harness works in the 2024 models.
I just installed one in my 2024 with the upgraded Alpine system.

 

[mudog]

Quick question:

I have ordered the PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41 Aftermarket Amplifier Interface along with a 6 channel amp. Which front speakers should I amplify? Dash or knee speakers? Rears have been changed to 6x9s and I am adding a single 12 for the sub.

Basic system 7 inch screen without alpine upgrade.

 

[ryan2100]

What amp are you running? Are the front speakers upgraded? Do you plan to bridge ch 5-6 and run the sub off the amp?
potential option
If you haven’t changed the front speakers you could upgrade them to a component set (6.5” knee and tweeters on the dash) and run on ch 1/2, run the rear 6x9s on 3/4, and the sub on a bridge

but this depends on what amp and power handling of the speakers/subs. Either way you are gonna want the best speakers up front, the soundbar is better a a rear fill

 

[ryan2100]

If interested I do have a set of new JL audio c2-650 components and crossovers laying around I’d be willing to sell. I decided to go another route and it’s too late to return them.

Sponsored