ACE Slider Install - Hints from fellow JL/JLU Owner's

Supercharged

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Nope, they are super tough. I would trust these over anything that bolts to a pinch seam.





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CJTJJK-JLNOW

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I got these put on my wife’s JL last year at the dealer. After reading this thread for some time and given how she is with her Jeep, I got a reasonable quote ($150 ish) from the dealer and she’s loved them ever since.

I picked up a pair for my JL for Black Friday last year and they sat in my garage waiting for me to get the nerve up to finally put them on myself. That never happened and a couple of weeks ago I thought, let me go to the same dealer and just have them do it.... Price quote was now $450 to install. LMAO! I showed them how much they charged last time for labor and time and the guy literally shrugged.

I went to a 4x4 shop I know and they quoted $115 to install. I said throw them on. - I really wish I had been able to do this myself like I have done the other work on my JL but these crazy bolts and all that popping and crackling just freaked me out. - Long story short, I’ve bought two sets of these and am enjoying them tremendously as is my wife. Great product and thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. You all provided tons of information that helped me make a decision on how to install and make a choice for my level of confidence getting this done.
 

Joiky

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Installed mine today. Took major elbow grease but no issues. We did encounter a clicking noise thar concerned us for a bit, think it was just the locktite. Working the bolt up and then back down mostly helped. Love the final result!
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Mikester86

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I am waiting on my install date at Ace's shop. I ordered new bolts, because no way in hell am I having the removed ones placed back in. The abuse they take being removed may weaken them enough to snap off more easily should the rock rails ever need to be removed.
 

mlugo.apx

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Reading this thread put the fear in me and I made an appointment with the local Jeep dealership in Cary, NC. Took the car in at 8AM this morning and 11:40AM they called me and said they wouldn't be able to install the ACE JL Rock Sliders. Apparently they didn't have the right equipment to heat up the red Loctite on the front body bolts and they didn't have the proper equipment/body guys in case any of the bolts broke. I then asked if they recommended another shop in town to perform the install and they suggested 4Wheel Parts over in Raleigh. I gave 4Wheel Parts a call and they didn't want to touch it in case they had any issues with broken bolts. They said it wasn't worth their time.

At this point, I contemplated setting up a return to ACE but I went outside, checked the bolts with 18mm socket on the passenger side. The back two seemed to move easily with my breaker bar but it was the front one that was a bit stubborn. When first getting the front one to move, I was definitely scared I was shearing the bolt off just because of the way it felt when it was moving. I did have to tighten and loosen the bolt a few times to get it moving again.

The driver side was even easier, no issues whatsoever and the front bolt came out with hardly any fuss. I am glad I did this side 2nd because I would have really been scared I was breaking the front bolt on the passenger side with how much clicking/creaking I was hearing at times.

Fast forward a few hours and it's all installed and properly torqued.

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PSUdaemon

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Rhinebeck01

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Yes, I am wondering this too. I have torqued mine to 85 right now and then I saw 92 as the factory spec. Didn’t retorque because of the bolt snapping stories but feel like it should be 92. Would like to hear others thoughts.
Leave it be...
 

dirtydawgsrubi

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What’s the general thought process on re-torquing the body bolts? Remove, clean up and reinstall or just put the torque wrench on and tighten up?

Scenario:

I noticed that the drivers side on ours has a extremely small amount of give. I checked the passenger side and solid as a rock. Then I remembered that when installing them I torqued to spec, but needed to move the rubi rails ever so slightly to avoid rubbing on that side. I failed to double check the torque after I moved the rail which probably caused this movement. I didn’t use threadlocker when installing back as I had such a hard time getting the middle one out. Using heat the front and rear came out without damage. The middle one broke the nut loose even after lots of heat and back and forth movements to clear the threads. The other side was was easy as well after applying heat. This made me question adding it when installing even though I planned on using orange. I put a regular ratchet and socket to all three bolts and they are tight but can be tightened more with a standard length 3/8 ratchet which in my mind confirms my thoughts that they are not torqued to spec.

Sorry, but with some of the issues others have faced, a little nervous doing anything to these bolts as I had the same experience. Any other grade 8 or 10.9 in the same application I’d just add torque to spec when they were confirmed to be below required value. Maybe it’s just all in my head, but looking for advise or experience here.

Thanks
 

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