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A little extra cash on hand dedicated to the Jeep - What would you recommend?

IdahoJOAT

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You guys are great... great advice all around.

Budget wise, $3k-$4k is not out of the question.

And maybe just stuff the 35's in there and see how it goes is the right interim mod.
Add the rock rails to keep the family happy.


For the lift, I didn't mention before, but we drag our teardrop trailer around too (1800-2000 lb total). And eventually, I want to find some better solution there where the back doesn't droop down so much. Picking the right lift with stiffer rear springs was part of my thinking to solve that problem too.
Okay, now I have some more input.

We have a 2021 Avenger LT 16RD. Dry it's 2700#. To mitigate the weight a bit we have our WDH that is necessary.

However, the 2.0T pulls quite nicely. I do find on serious grades (6-8%) Kailani likes to run at about 45-50 MPH instead of 65-70. Tranny gets too hot.
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uawho

uawho

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The lift I've been focusing on lately is the Clayton 2.5".

https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-wrangler-25-overland-lift-kit-2018-jl

Price point is too high for now, and maybe the 2.5" is more than I need. I heard they were developing a 1.5" version too, and if they do in the future that is likely my choice.
It just can't be done AND do the 35"'s at the same time for my current budget.

I wonder if I can just stop paying for my kids' college for a year, and channel that into the Jeep?
hmmmmm.
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uawho

uawho

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Okay, now I have some more input.

We have a 2021 Avenger LT 16RD. Dry it's 2700#. To mitigate the weight a bit we have our WDH that is necessary.

However, the 2.0T pulls quite nicely. I do find on serious grades (6-8%) Kailani likes to run at about 45-50 MPH instead of 65-70. Tranny gets too hot.
How does the WDH do offroad? does it articulate enough for you?

Our teardrop is a Mean Bean trailer and we drag that thing into pretty rough spots. The WDH would need to be tucked up close to the trailer frame.
 

Zandcwhite

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We wheeled our jlur stock for a year, and belly dragging was way too common. We then went 2” spacer lift and 37’s. Still had way too much sag in the rear when loaded down with camping/recovery gear, tools, etc. We then went to icon 2.5” springs. Now it is firm enough out back to load up without too much squat. Has plenty of clearance as well. We have also added trac bars, adjustable front lca’s, and long travel shocks to get it to do all the things we want it to do. If I had to do it over again, I’d go straight to icon stage 3 or higher. That way you have better shocks, trac bars, and longer front LCA’s. Buy once, cry once. The lift and new tires will put you right at your budget, but will give you so much more clearance. Our barricade off road slider/steps have taken a beating on rocks without issue and were under $400 from extreme terrain.
 

blnewt

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Just ask @cosine he knows!
The Rubi already clears 315/70s very well, but to keep to stock looking appearance/clearance, you could install 3/4 inch coil spacers all around and call it a day.
And get some Fox 2.0 shocks for the 0-1.5" lift and the Mopar lift LCAs, then call it a day :)
 

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Zandcwhite

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How does the WDH do offroad? does it articulate enough for you?

Our teardrop is a Mean Bean trailer and we drag that thing into pretty rough spots. The WDH would need to be tucked up close to the trailer frame.
For what it’s worth, a class 2 hitch is not designed for use with a wdh. You won’t find one on the market that is rated for use with a class 2 hitch. Sure you can use one, but that doesn’t mean you should. With a 3,500lb tow rating, you shouldn’t have a tongue weight over 350lbs anyway, so a wdh really isn’t necessary.
 

omnitonic

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The endpoint for my build was a 2.5" lift and 315/70R17s with Rubicon-style fender flares, so this is pretty close to how a Rubicon would end up, minus your slightly wider axles.

My door sills are 26" off the ground, which puts the floor mats about 24" off the ground. I'm 5'8" tall, and I can get in this thing, but it's a pretty tall step. If I still had a wife and younger kids, doing something about steps would be pretty much mandatory. I think you probably need to move that up and get that done earlier in the build. I'm thinking about the Rockslide Engineering step sliders.

The progression I followed was winch, front bumper, rear bumper. Now it was saggy, so I added a budget lift. The budget lift wasn't going to be satisfactory for off-roading on 35s, so I added a proper lift kit. Then wheels and tires and high clearance fender flares (which you already have, at least). With other random things along the way, the budget got away from me, and I sank about $10,000 into this thing. It all started with that winch and bumper.

I would do it all again, but a case can be argued that I am stupid. My Jeep looks awesome, but I drive on all the same trails I used to drive stock, and I still scrape bottom on things.
 

IdahoJOAT

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How does the WDH do offroad? does it articulate enough for you?

Our teardrop is a Mean Bean trailer and we drag that thing into pretty rough spots. The WDH would need to be tucked up close to the trailer frame.
I would imagine it would not. The standard WDH is for your highway experience.

That said, with a JLUR and it loaded fully to max, if you're taking the WDH off and going off the beaten path you're probably not fast enough to NEED the WDH.

I would not however, ever, take a max loaded trailer overlanding. That's more for a true teardrop, which are light enough a WDH isn't needed.
 

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Price point is too high for now, and maybe the 2.5" is more than I need. I heard they were developing a 1.5" version too, and if they do in the future that is likely my choice.
It just can't be done AND do the 35"'s at the same time for my current budget.

I wonder if I can just stop paying for my kids' college for a year, and channel that into the Jeep?
hmmmmm.
LIGHT BULB!
So....I'm in a slightly similar situation with my Sahara. After a ridiculous amount of research and hemming and hawing, my solution is to go with 285/75R17s, new wheels, and a 1" spacer lift. All in, should come in just under $3.5K, and solve a few issues:
  • Keeps me to an overall lift of ~2". Wife + kids + low garage mean that a true 2" lift which nets closer to 3-3.5" (Looking at you, MOPAR 2" LIft) is not a good solution for me at the moment.
  • 285/75R17 is 34.1 vs my stock 32.1, so I still get ~1" of final clearance increase, plus a meatier looking tire
    • Yes, I realise they will be less than 34.1" once mounted, just like my stock 32.1" aren't really that big mounted. Should still net the same 1" overall
  • I *could* skip the wheels and save $$$, but I want a little poke and don't feel comfortable with spacers. Also budgeting for new wheels lets me drop from 18" to 17" for better tire selection/prices
  • 285/75R17 will be slightly smaller/lighter than true 35's, which eases the strain on tailgate, fitment, etc.
  • A 1" spacer lift will be stupid cheap, easy to install, and not change the geometry so much that I have to spend another $1,000 "fixing" things.
Basically, with this solution, I can get a more aggressive tire, better stance/clearance, and a slight lift without dropping so much coin that I'm screwed for anything else. And the part that's taking most of the budget (wheels/tires) will still work if I do decide on a proper lift later down the road.

I go out to the local offroad park ~once a month, but otherwise I'm mostly highway and light trails, so not super concerned about ultimate flex at this point.

Food for thought based on your budget.
 

Dyolfknip74

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The lift I've been focusing on lately is the Clayton 2.5".

https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-wrangler-25-overland-lift-kit-2018-jl

Price point is too high for now, and maybe the 2.5" is more than I need. I heard they were developing a 1.5" version too, and if they do in the future that is likely my choice.
It just can't be done AND do the 35"'s at the same time for my current budget.

I wonder if I can just stop paying for my kids' college for a year, and channel that into the Jeep?
hmmmmm.
LIGHT BULB!
I'm going Clayton eventually as well and have been speaking to them this week. I specifically asked about 1" springs and they didn't make any mention of a 1.5". I'm still gonna do the kit minus springs and get the springs from Synergy.
 

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uawho

uawho

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Well, step one is done.
Aluminum bumpers, front and rear. And new steel rock rails/side steps.

I'm hoping that doesn't add much weight, yet gives some better protection and allows some better mounting for some of the lights I have (front and rear)

I'm going to wait a bit on the tires and lift and do those together. The stock tires probably have 6-8 months more of life on them at my current use rate. When they're ready, I'll do a lift (hopefully the 1" or 1.5" Clayton) or something similar. Upsize to the 35's and some new wheels at the same time.
 

RagTopDeluxe

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I have 315s on my Rubi without a lift:
IMG_3749-X3.jpg


I do hear rubbing if I have the wheels turned all the way, typically maneuvering in a parking lot, but otherwise have no issues.

I have a 2.5” lift in the garage that I’ll have installed in a few months.
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