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6-Speed JLUR with 35s vs 37s (no re-gear)

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I love a good debate.. but you're not losing much.. just have to row your gears more. that's it!! Get used to 5k rpm (which this motor loves)..
I’m not asking to “debate”... you stated “many minuses” and so far the only take-away is that I’ll loose 6th and most-of-the-time 5th gear.

You’re telling me people spend $$$$ just so they don’t have to shift as frequently?
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Which part are you unclear on?
 
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Which part are you unclear on?
The “many minuses” as in you loose a lot more than having to shiftMore frequently.... this is where you’d provide what the other many minuses are - not asking to be a D or say you’re wrong, legitimately seeking to understand is all.
 

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Its not rocket science.. look at the trans gearing I listed. Are you ok with it?

If not, regear.
 
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Its not rocket science.. look at the trans gearing I listed. Are you ok with it?

If not, regear.
Okay you don’t have to be a D about it. You said there are “many minuses” and when I asked you said I’ll have to shift more frequently... as in 1 minus, not many. But yeah great way to contribute and add value to the conversation. Your right, it’s not “rocket science” - it’s one thing, more frequent shifting lol.
 
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Why didn’t you go 37s instead of 35s?
A bunch of reasons, starting with power. Secondly, most of the Jeeps I've seen broken on trails over the years have tires significantly greater in size than stock. I've not seen Jeeps with stock or one size up from stock tires break nearly as frequently. In fact, I can't think of one off the top of my head. So my JK came with 32's, so I gave it a slight lift and 33's. Never an issue other than worn ball joints at 90k miles. It now has 143k with lots of off roading over the years. So the JL came with 33's. I gave it the Mopar lift (probably 3" or 3.5" even though they call it 2") and went up one size, from 33's to 35's. I also went as light as possible, so I stuck with stock rims and C-rated KO2's. The M210 and M220 axle housings are stronger than the JK's D-44's, so I was confident it could handle 35's without breaking a sweat, or breaking at all.

So the short answer is, less stress on the drive train. I keep my Jeeps a LONG time, and they do MANY off-road miles over the years. I want to ride home in them instead of a tow truck or rental.

Now all that said, I've not seen a JL with 37's break on the trail yet. So the strengthening may have been enough to handle it. But I won't be the one to push the limit. Every mod I do to my Jeep has light weight in mind, so all of these things, including the 35's, contribute to that goal.

That right there is why my Jeep, with 35's and the manual transmission, still has good acceleration and power throughout the power band. The weight not only increases drive train stress, but also costs power.

Sorry that was so long, but there was a great deal of thought and consideration put into it. Believe it or not, I almost stuck with the stock setup with 33's. But I'm glad I didn't. I think it hit the sweet spot. Like I said, I've not encountered anything that my friends with 37's did that I wasn't able to do. Sure, maybe not quite as easily, but I haven't perceived that, at all.

Some Jeeps that get too big and heavy become less and less fun on the road, too. Mine is a hoot on a twisty road with the doors off. Plenty of power and handling and body roll aren't bad. Fuel economy is decent, too.
 
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A bunch of reasons, starting with power. Secondly, most of the Jeeps I've seen broken on trails over the years have tires significantly greater in size than stock. I've not seen Jeeps with stock or one size up from stock tires break nearly as frequently. In fact, I can't think of one off the top of my head. So my JK came with 32's, so I gave it a slight lift and 33's. Never an issue other than worn ball joints at 90k miles. It now has 143k with lots of off roading over the years. So the JL came with 33's. I gave it the Mopar lift (probably 3" or 3.5" even though they call it 2") and went up one size, from 33's to 35's. I also went as light as possible, so I stuck with stock rims and C-rated KO2's. The M210 and M220 axle housings are stronger than the JK's D-44's, so I was confident it could handle 35's without breaking a sweat, or breaking at all.

So the short answer is, less stress on the drive train. I keep my Jeeps a LONG time, and they do MANY off-road miles over the years. I want to ride home in them instead of a tow truck or rental.

Now all that said, I've not seen a JL with 37's break on the trail yet. So the strengthening may have been enough to handle it. But I won't be the one to push the limit. Every mod I do to my Jeep has light weight in mind, so all of these things, including the 35's, contribute to that goal.

That right there is why my Jeep, with 35's and the manual transmission, still has good acceleration and power throughout the power band. The weight not only increases drive train stress, but also costs power.

Sorry that was so long, but there was a great deal of thought and consideration put into it. Believe it or not, I almost stuck with the stock setup with 33's. But I'm glad I didn't. I think it hit the sweet spot. Like I said, I've not encountered anything that my friends with 37's did that I wasn't able to do. Sure, maybe not quite as easily, but I haven't perceived that, at all.

Some Jeeps that get too big and heavy become less and less fun on the road, too. Mine is a hoot on a twisty road with the doors off. Plenty of power and handling and body roll aren't bad. Fuel economy is decent, too.
Awesome input, thanks for not just saying it sucks or there are “many minuses” and then getting defensive when I ask for more than 1 :like:...

Have you had an opportunity to drive a 6-speed JLUR on 37s and hasn’t been re-geared so you can compare the difference in on-road handling?
 
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i sucked for posting facts? lol
 

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yeah I'm a little rough,. i understand.
 

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A bunch of reasons, starting with power. Secondly, most of the Jeeps I've seen broken on trails over the years have tires significantly greater in size than stock. I've not seen Jeeps with stock or one size up from stock tires break nearly as frequently. In fact, I can't think of one off the top of my head. So my JK came with 32's, so I gave it a slight lift and 33's. Never an issue other than worn ball joints at 90k miles. It now has 143k with lots of off roading over the years. So the JL came with 33's. I gave it the Mopar lift (probably 3" or 3.5" even though they call it 2") and went up one size, from 33's to 35's. I also went as light as possible, so I stuck with stock rims and C-rated KO2's. The M210 and M220 axle housings are stronger than the JK's D-44's, so I was confident it could handle 35's without breaking a sweat, or breaking at all.

So the short answer is, less stress on the drive train. I keep my Jeeps a LONG time, and they do MANY off-road miles over the years. I want to ride home in them instead of a tow truck or rental.

Now all that said, I've not seen a JL with 37's break on the trail yet. So the strengthening may have been enough to handle it. But I won't be the one to push the limit. Every mod I do to my Jeep has light weight in mind, so all of these things, including the 35's, contribute to that goal.

That right there is why my Jeep, with 35's and the manual transmission, still has good acceleration and power throughout the power band. The weight not only increases drive train stress, but also costs power.

Sorry that was so long, but there was a great deal of thought and consideration put into it. Believe it or not, I almost stuck with the stock setup with 33's. But I'm glad I didn't. I think it hit the sweet spot. Like I said, I've not encountered anything that my friends with 37's did that I wasn't able to do. Sure, maybe not quite as easily, but I haven't perceived that, at all.

Some Jeeps that get too big and heavy become less and less fun on the road, too. Mine is a hoot on a twisty road with the doors off. Plenty of power and handling and body roll aren't bad. Fuel economy is decent, too.
And not trying to kill this more than it already is... one more question, what do you think is worse in terms of negatively impacting power?
  1. 35” tire that weighs 78lbs
  2. 36.5” tire that weighs 73lbs
 

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My $0.015

2020 JLR 2 Door Manual with RK 3.5 T-Rex (mid arm front - long arm rear) lift and Milestar 37's
Still have the 4.10 gears
The front end has the Artec truss system.
Off road, not bad since the JLR has a 4 to 1 xfer case.
On road, can hold 5th or 6th if the road is flat.
Any kind of incline, 4th is needed. To go up a mnt road at 55-60 MPH, 3rd is needed.

Gears can be a slippery slope...
Thinking of going 4.88's this winter.
Since 38's or 40's would be more better, maybe 5.13's
Maybe with 40's, time for Dana 60's and eight lug wheels.
Now with 40's and Dana 60's, time for a Hemi. :D
Can the stock manual gear box be mated to a Hemi.
Upgrade gear box?
This is one slippery slope! :D
That's why it's just empty every pocket.

Jeep Wrangler JL 6-Speed JLUR with 35s vs 37s (no re-gear) 2020_08_08 2600
 

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Just like he said... you will be in 3rd gear 99.999 fourth (1:1) is like an overdrive, 5th and 6 are. you cant use these gears with a lift. weight and larger tires.
with the manual but I'm ok with wringing out gears to 5k rpm.
 
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Just like he said... you will be in 3rd gear 99.999 fourth (1:1) is like an overdrive, 5th and 6 are. you cant use these gears with a lift. weight and larger tires.
with the manual but I'm ok with wringing out gears to 5k rpm.
He didn’t just say that... he said on mountain hills he’s in 3rd. If your goal is to take what someone says and twist it so it fits your narrative that’s cool, but why post it here when everyone can literally read what the guy just wrote? Lol
 

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Ok I understand. go head on maryalnd. i ONLY drive on mountains i drive up/down 30 degrees to the local store.
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