500 Mile Break in Oil change caused issues

[CarbonSteel]

I agree! I think a lot of people get caught up with adages and rules from eons ago about vehicles and the vehicles today are far and away more advanced, I mean who would think someone would go 10K plus miles in between oil changes like some cars can do today? As previously stated, follow the manufacture's guidelines and keep your records and if something goes, wrong, put them on the hook. All that said, sorry that happened to you though.

Neither of the gasoline engines in the Wrangler should be blindly ran for 10K OCIs (discussing the 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder here--not the 392, though I would not run a 10K OCI in it either). The 2.0T is turbocharged and is a direct injection engine which is harder on oil due to the turbocharger and the direct injection has fuel dilution which reduces the viscosity of the oil. There have been a number of people post UOAs of 2.0T oil and the viscosity is always substantially reduced.

While the 3.6L is not a DI, unless you are testing the oil to understand the health of it, it could (and likely will) be out of active additive at 10K miles. I have used both Rotella Gas Truck and Valvoline Extended Protection in my 3.6L and neither of those oils would have active additive remaining at 10K miles--this is despite the iOLM showing more than 50% of the oil health remaining. The UOAs show an entirely different data point--the active additive is almost completely used up at 5K miles and would be all used up by 7K at the latest.

As I said before, there is no minimum oil change interval posted anywhere by FCA (and why would there be) and therefore, changing the oil earlier than the recommendation does not in and of itself cause issues with the warranty.

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[Mtrctylarry]

So word from Dealer, they found metal when they pulled the dipstick not filter as other service advisor said. He told me they have to tear the engine down to see what happened. He stated nothing I did was wrong, I assumed I was putting the correct items in per the label. But he thinks that much metal it might be a manufacture defect. So now still in a holding pattern.

Really surprised dealer is doing a ‘tear down’ of new engine With a catastrophic failure. When I worked at FoMoCo in parts and service division they would replace with new engine assembly and send failed engine to engine Powertrain Engineering building in Dearborn for disassembly and inspection.

 

[roaniecowpony]

No where in the manual for any modern vehicle does it say to change oil at 500 miles. Complete waste of money, and now look at this poor guy. If he followed the directions the warranty claim would be cut and dry.

Why do you believe the changing of oil at 500 miles somehow negatively affects a warranty claim? How about 1000 miles? 3000? 5000? When is it ok to change it and not void warranty? Where is that written in the manual or in the warranty?

 

[Strommen95]

Why do you believe the changing of oil at 500 miles somehow negatively affects a warranty claim? How about 1000 miles? 3000? 5000? When is it ok to change it and not void warranty? Where is that written in the manual or in the warranty?

I interpreted his point being that if OP didn't change the oil randomly at 500 miles and the same failure occurred that it would be a clear cut warranty issue. By changing the oil so early, on his own accord, he gave the dealer potential ammunition to pin the entire issue on OP. If that oil wasn't changed, the dealer would have nothing to point to.

You could argue the same thing could happen at 3,000 miles onwards but defects overwhelmingly show up in the first 1000 miles on a brand new vehicle.

 

[Strommen95]

I have used both Rotella Gas Truck and Valvoline Extended Protection in my 3.6L and neither of those oils would have active additive remaining at 10K miles--this is despite the iOLM showing more than 50% of the oil health remaining. The UOAs show an entirely different data point--the active additive is almost completely used up at 5K miles and would be all used up by 7K at the latest.

Not exactly being proficient with oil, what exactly is active additive and what is the negative of it being lost? Oil isn't my thing but given the oil change intervals recommended out there by manufacturers I can't imagine that the negatives are serious. Especially given both oils are overkill as is for the 3.6.

 

[Chupacabra]

No where in the manual for any modern vehicle does it say to change oil at 500 miles. Complete waste of money, and now look at this poor guy. If he followed the directions the warranty claim would be cut and dry.

I agree it's a waste of money, but if done properly (like any oil change) it should have zero impact on any warranty claim. This could have happened after an oil change at 500, 1500, or 5000 miles too.

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

Why do you believe the changing of oil at 500 miles somehow negatively affects a warranty claim? How about 1000 miles? 3000? 5000? When is it ok to change it and not void warranty? Where is that written in the manual or in the warranty?

No, you missed my point. Assuming this is a defect, he would have been better off following the guidelines in the manual. Now he's gone and told them that he not only changed the oil, but that it was red and runny. FCA has an out, now.

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

should have zero impact

Should - remember, we're talking about Stellantis.

Listen, they guy has shit luck and I feel terribly for him. I'm not bashing him, but just pointing out that by jumping the gun he's made a bad situation (potentially) worse.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Not exactly being proficient with oil, what exactly is active additive and what is the negative of it being lost? Oil isn't my thing but given the oil change intervals recommended out there by manufacturers I can't imagine that the negatives are serious. Especially given both oils are overkill as is for the 3.6.

When the additive in an oil (any engine oil) goes down to a low level--typically a TBN (total base number) of less than 2.0, it can no longer effectively neutralize the acids that are created during combustion. This is exasperated in the 2.0T by the fuel dilution that occurs. When that happens, the acid levels build until they reach the point that metal is attacked and wear accelerates.

The other issue that happens is varnish and sludge begin to be created and over time it will clog ports (variable valve timing for example) and once varnish and sludge start, they are cumulative and continue to build. More often than not, the detergent in the new oil is not enough to combat the varnish and it just continues to build.

In this case, I trust the results of the UOA far more than I do the iOLM as (at least in my Jeep) it has been disproven by showing the oil life more than 50% when the TBN of the oil was in the 2.5 range. It is not feasible for an oil with a TBN of 3.0 or less to last an additional 5K miles. The starting TBN for Rotella Gas Truck is 6.78 and for Valvoline Extended Protection it is 6.84. With the exception of European oils and long drain oils like Amsoil Signature Series and the like, most synthetic oils have a starting TBN of less than 10.0.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I interpreted his point being that if OP didn't change the oil randomly at 500 miles and the same failure occurred that it would be a clear cut warranty issue. By changing the oil so early, on his own accord, he gave the dealer potential ammunition to pin the entire issue on OP. If that oil wasn't changed, the dealer would have nothing to point to.

You could argue the same thing could happen at 3,000 miles onwards but defects overwhelmingly show up in the first 1000 miles on a brand new vehicle.

I don't share the same perspective on both points. The post was an unnecessary "see, I told you so" dig, supported by the opinion that it's a waste of money to change at 500 miles. As for defects overwhelmingly showing up in the first 1000 miles, I don't believe the posts on this forum support that, nor have I seen any actual evidence that's fact.

 

[roaniecowpony]

No, you missed my point. Assuming this is a defect, he would have been better off following the guidelines in the manual. Now he's gone and told them that he not only changed the oil, but that it was red and runny. FCA has an out, now.

The guy didn't have a crystal ball to forsee this event. He knows everything you just said. Everyone does. So, why the dig?

 

[Strommen95]

I don't share the same perspective on both points. The post was an unnecessary "see, I told you so" dig, supported by the opinion that it's a waste of money to change at 500 miles. As for defects overwhelmingly showing up in the first 1000 miles, I don't believe the posts on this forum support that, nor have I seen any actual evidence that's fact.

This isn't really a matter of perspective. He did give the dealer ammunition. If he didn't do the oil change prematurely the dealer wouldn't have anything to blame on the owners part. That's not opinion.

If something is defective from the factory, it's going to expose itself early on. Again, doesn't really matter if you disagree. It's still true.

 

[roaniecowpony]

As long as you're happy with your facts that's all that matters.

 

[TCorgard82]

No, you missed my point. Assuming this is a defect, he would have been better off following the guidelines in the manual. Now he's gone and told them that he not only changed the oil, but that it was red and runny. FCA has an out, now.

Didn't say it was Red, seemed runny than what I'm use to and had a light pinkish color. But was out of a brand new bottle of 0w20 Pennzoil. Also Dealer is not blaming me for anything, so far they are on my side.

 

[Mabar]

Didn't say it was Red, seemed runny than what I'm use to and had a light pinkish color. But was out of a brand new bottle of 0w20 Pennzoil. Also Dealer is not blaming me for anything, so far they are on my side.

For what it's worth, I am guessing that you put the correct oil in the engine, especially since you said it was a sealed cap container, and you broke the seal. There is a big difference in viscosity between say 10W-30 (if that is what you were used to), and 0W-20.

Also, if it was some sort of other fluid, say transmission fluid, I am sure the dealer's mechanic would have noticed that by just checking the dipstick, or draining a little oil.

Since the dealer is not blaming you for anything so far, I would guess that this is NOT your fault.

Please keep us posted. I am sure we are all interested in updates from you.

Good luck!

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