5.2” backspace with Lifts. Does it rub?

[Mx5red]

Also posted on gladiatorforum but no replies..
I’ve been reading a lot on here and looks like almost all aftermarket lifts recommend around 4.5” of backspace in order not to rub on the aftermarket control arms. Stock Mopar arms have a bend to accommodate backspace, that’s why Mopar and AEV (who still utilize stock control arms) are ok with stock (6.2”) or AEV (5.7”) wheels.

still, plenty of people rock AEV or other 5-5.2” backspace wheels.

so is there really not much rubbing on control arms with say 5.2” backspace, and an aftermarket lift?
I really like a couple wheels with that backspace, but am also planning ahead on lift and would go with something besides Mopar arms. So I don’t want to order wheels that will rub on a later lift.

Was thinking either Quadratec machined Hard Rock (5.2”), or going full bore like a Fuel Rebel (4.5”) or Teraflex Nomad (4.75”).
I’d rather have less poke than that thoughPlus I love the Hard Rocks the most!

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[Yellow Cake Kid]

1) A lot depends on how big a tire you install on those new rims.

2) It depends on the lift components you choose. Do the parts provide increased suspension articulation or do they just raises the chassis higher off the ground?

Sometimes 1 and 2 are related and or combined, and sometimes they are two independent factors. So you can find all sorts of anecdotes and observations of what works and what does not.

Good luck.


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[Hucke_250]

Look into Clayton lift lower control arms. They have implemented the bend like the OEM LCA’s. I am running them on my JLU with a 35x12.5 tire and 5.040 backspace wheels with zero rubbing.
Edit: Check out this thread for AEV Borah wheels to see what lifts member are running on their rigs. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/aev-borah-wheels-on-jl.21702/

 

[Yellow Cake Kid]

Are there really any manufacturers selling Wrangler JL fit lower control arms that are not shaped to accommodate the requirement for clearance?

 

[Jeep&dogs]

I am running AEV’s with 35x12.5 on a 2” Clayton lift. No rubbing with any of the arms or lift components. I did have rubbing on full lock with my Rusty’s 2 ton steering system. The rod ends will hit the inside lip of the wheel. I had to adjust the steering stops out. Steer Smarts and Metal Cloak steering systems do not have the same issues because there is more of a bend in the rod end by the wheel.

 

[Mx5red]

Are there really any manufacturers selling Wrangler JL fit lower control arms that are not shaped to accommodate the requirement for clearance?

I’m just going by what I’ve read repeatedly on here. Maybe they all do but with added articulation they all need more backspace? Seems like that could be factored into the design

 

[Yellow Cake Kid]

A lot of guys start at the end and work backwards by choosing a wheel that looks cool before they make the other decisions.

A wise way to approach a Jeep upgrade is too choose the tires you want to roll your Jeep on. There are lots of reasons to prefer one tire over the other for the kind of driving you want to prioritize. Pick a tire. Then choose a lift that meets your goals for keeping those tires on the ground as you traverse the landscape you are most interested in driving over. Then choose some wheels that work well with the tires and the lift package you picked out.

1) The control arm dimensions are, more or less, constrained to a need to attach at the pivot points provided on the Jeep frame and the axles. That's why the control arm manufacturers can't just design a bend that allows for installing a 40" tire mounted on a wheel with the Jeep's factory OEM backspace. If you want a bigger tire you have to work with the Jeep and deal with the fact that the Jeep has stuff welded on it that you may not want to cut off and relocate.

2) With regards to issues caused by increased articulation, the tire clearance at the control arm can be a factor, but it is the clearance between the shock body and the frame that is more likely to be problematic, so the shocks may be repositioned and mounted outwards to provide more clearance with the frame. You can't do much about the frame, but you can move the wheels outward to make room for the shocks. This is not usually considered such a bad thing, as it is likely you will be moving the wheels outward to accommodate a bigger tire anyways.

Good luck!


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[thomasg]

I am running AEV’s with 35x12.5 on a 2” Clayton lift. No rubbing with any of the arms or lift components. I did have rubbing on full lock with my Rusty’s 2 ton steering system. The rod ends will hit the inside lip of the wheel. I had to adjust the steering stops out. Steer Smarts and Metal Cloak steering systems do not have the same issues because there is more of a bend in the rod end by the wheel.

Does Clayton have a 2" spring now? I know you were waiting on them but never saw what you ended up with after you got rid of your Dynatrac springs.

 

[4xFUN]

I have been running a Mopar Frankenlift with 17"x8.5" / 5.2" backspace with Teraflex IR control arms and 315 KO2's with zero rubbing.
Now going with 2.5" Metalcloak springs, longer shocks but switching to 37" KO2's and hopefully will still not rub (the 37x12.50's are not as wide as the 315's)

 

[Jeep&dogs]

Does Clayton have a 2" spring now? I know you were waiting on them but never saw what you ended up with after you got rid of your Dynatrac springs.

No, I ended up going with Rusty’s spring

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