5.13 gears and 35's?

[StingGrayRhino]

Anyone running 5.13 gears on 35s?

I have 35s right now and I'm thinking of regearing. I only want to regear once, incase I move up to 37s or 40s and prefer the higher ratio anyhow. I know what the chart says but wondering if anyone has first hand experience with this setup.

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[Huehue80]

I currently run 37's with 5.13 gears. If I was just running 35's I'd stick with the 4.10 gears that came with my Rubicon. But if you think you will go to 37's 5.13's work great.

I know that's not the correct answer but if you only want to regear once you can't go wrong with 5.13's

 

[spies]

Anyone running 5.13 gears on 35s?

I have 35s right now and I'm thinking of regearing. I only want to regear once, incase I move up to 37s or 40s and prefer the higher ratio anyhow. I know what the chart says but wondering if anyone has first hand experience with this setup.

I ran 35s with 5.13 gears when I had a manual. My RPMs were well over 3k on the highway but that doesn't hurt anything besides gas mileage. If you plan on wheeling the thing, I would call up Dana and get the tooth count on these gear sets because I don't see them listed anywhere. There will be a point at which the rear pinion goes from 9 teeth to 8. Probably at 4.56 or 4.88. 5.13 is most certainly 8 teeth. For strength, I would stick with 9 teeth. If you don't plan on wheeling, just get whatever.

 

[spies]

Just looked again, according to 4 wheel parts, the breakover point is 4.56. 4.56 is a 41/9 and 4.88 is a 39/8. 5.13 is 41/8. So I would stick to 4.56 for strength.

 

[Therby]

Mines manual trans and 4.56 is plenty for 35s.

Like said above, anything above that and you’ll never want to drive over 60mph on the highway

 

[Hydroboy35th]

I’ve got a manual and run 4.88’s with 35’s. I love the way it feels.

 

[Jeepjunkie]

Mines manual trans and 4.56 is plenty for 35s.

Like said above, anything above that and you’ll never want to drive over 60mph on the highway

Good info. At the end of the month I’m regearing my manual to 4.56 with plans for 35s (33s now). Got a prorock 44 being built.

 

[Therby]

Good info. At the end of the month I’m regearing my manual to 4.56 with plans for 35s (33s now). Got a prorock 44 being built.

You’ll love it, makes it completely different to drive.
Thats sweet, i want to do a prorock or ultimate dana44 front. Possibly leave the 4.56 with 37s and just get a rubi transfercase with the manual trans

 

[Maverick909]

I’ve got a manual and run 4.88’s with 35’s. I love the way it feels.

hows your RPM level at 70 MPH? im debating between 4.56 and 4.88 with 33/35" tire combos leaning towards the 4.56 with my 6 speed as i will never go to a 37" tire.

 

[Therby]

hows your RPM level at 70 MPH? im debating between 4.56 and 4.88 with 33/35" tire combos leaning towards the 4.56 with my 6 speed as i will never go to a 37" tire.

Im guessing its bad. I feel like 4.56 is almost to much gearing for 35s. 4.88 would be killer on highway fuel economy.

I’d go to 4.56 and 37s with a 4:1 transfer case

 

[intentsrig]

I run 5.13’s with 37’s now. Had 35’s before I bought the 37’s.

It was not near 3k rpms. More like 2550 maybe 2600. Actually maybe less.

Don’t be afraid of the gears or teeth breaking. Just remember it’s not a rock bouncer and you’ll be totally fine.

Remember lots of Jk guys even run 5.38’s. Including friends of mine. Toyota guys 5.29 in their tiny 8” diffs.

If you plan to go bigger in the future go 5.13

 

[Maverick909]

thanks. i have the stock sport gears now with the mm220 dana 44 with the LSD. so the 3.43 gears and i swapped to the rubicon wheels and stock 33" MT and my little 3.6L is a dog up hill. I am worried that 4.10s will not be enough gearing. i dont do any rock bouncing but minor crawling and overlanding. hmm.

 

[intentsrig]

thanks. i have the stock sport gears now with the mm220 dana 44 with the LSD. so the 3.43 gears and i swapped to the rubicon wheels and stock 33" MT and my little 3.6L is a dog up hill. I am worried that 4.10s will not be enough gearing. i dont do any rock bouncing but minor crawling and overlanding. hmm.

Whatever you do. Don’t go 4.10’s lol.

 

[spies]

I run 5.13’s with 37’s now. Had 35’s before I bought the 37’s.

It was not near 3k rpms. More like 2550 maybe 2600. Actually maybe less.

Don’t be afraid of the gears or teeth breaking. Just remember it’s not a rock bouncer and you’ll be totally fine.

Remember lots of Jk guys even run 5.38’s. Including friends of mine. Toyota guys 5.29 in their tiny 8” diffs.

If you plan to go bigger in the future go 5.13

It was over 3k for me. But the JK had a .79 6th gear and the JL has a .72 6th gear. So the JK broke over 3k at about 75, JL breaks over at 85.

With respect to gears breaking. I broke a set of 5.13s in a rear JK 44. With a larger ring gear and higher hypoid offset than a JL. Sometimes you have no choice but to bounce, you can't crawl over everything. And when you've got the rear locked, one rear wheel in the air, the other bound up... turns out 5.13 JK gears are weaker than 35 spline axle shafts. So that's another thing you can do, stick with stock 32 spline shafts, don't even bother with chromoly.

Since you have a manual you have pretty much no choice but to get the lowest gears possible. I was in the same boat with the JK. I had a 115:1 crawl with a 5:1 tcase and 5.13s and there were times when I still wanted more. I ended up selling my JK and getting an auto JL just because I was never totally happy with the gearing.

For guys with automatics, especially with 4:1 transfer cases, you've got no reason to go that deep on the diff gears. 4.56 with 37s will be about the same as 4.10 with 33s as far as RPM per MPH. Larger pinion gear than 4.88 and 5.13. Seems like the best fit. Or just stick with 4.10s.

But with all of that said, this is all irrelevant if you don't do hard trails. If you just drive on the street and do fire road type of stuff, you aren't going to break anything even with 40s. So if you just want maximum "pep" on the road just get whatever, including 5.38.

 

[intentsrig]

It was over 3k for me. But the JK had a .79 6th gear and the JL has a .72 6th gear. So the JK broke over 3k at about 75, JL breaks over at 85.

With respect to gears breaking. I broke a set of 5.13s in a rear JK 44. With a larger ring gear and higher hypoid offset than a JL. Sometimes you have no choice but to bounce, you can't crawl over everything. And when you've got the rear locked, one rear wheel in the air, the other bound up... turns out 5.13 JK gears are weaker than 35 spline axle shafts. So that's another thing you can do, stick with stock 32 spline shafts, don't even bother with chromoly.

Since you have a manual you have pretty much no choice but to get the lowest gears possible. I was in the same boat with the JK. I had a 115:1 crawl with a 5:1 tcase and 5.13s and there were times when I still wanted more. I ended up selling my JK and getting an auto JL just because I was never totally happy with the gearing.

For guys with automatics, especially with 4:1 transfer cases, you've got no reason to go that deep on the diff gears. 4.56 with 37s will be about the same as 4.10 with 33s as far as RPM per MPH. Larger pinion gear than 4.88 and 5.13. Seems like the best fit. Or just stick with 4.10s.

But with all of that said, this is all irrelevant if you don't do hard trails. If you just drive on the street and do fire road type of stuff, you aren't going to break anything even with 40s. So if you just want maximum "pep" on the road just get whatever, including 5.38.

Yeah if I have to bounce up something I’ll either winch or something. I usually give it a bounce at least once. On the west coast we have a lot of rocks and not much mud. No real need to bounce. Basically I can crawl over everything. Unless it’s a buggy line but that’s not what I’m doing. Mainly just the Rubicon and similar trails. Which are not all the difficult.

Ohh going over 85. I don’t usually go faster than 70...lol

Yeah I love having the 4:1. The JL’s first gear being 5.13 is a granny gear for sure. It’s almost impossible to stall. I can stop hitting the gas pedal on an obstacle bound up and dragging diffs and it still won’t stall. Just spins the tires super slow.

Yeah, having the 5.13’s helps a lot when I’m loaded down with camping gear. Plus the 37’s..I wouldn’t want anything less gear wise. I had an auto Rubicon 2 door and it was nice. But now that I have the 5.13’s and 4-1 again. I don’t even think twice about the clutch on an obstacle.

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