40" tires on stock axles.

[wibornz]

40k+ miles, heavy as hell trail grapplers (and even stickies for 6k miles), again no you don’t have to go 60’s to run 40’s…

If you watch the video, the axles are not stock, The title is way misleading. He has upgraded all the axle shafts, the knuckles and re-geared them, then put two different sets of ball joints in them

So saying that he is running stock axle is just not true. The only thing left stock is the housing and then he still tell you he is very careful with the lines he takes and is very aware of how and where he goes.

But hey maybe some people think that dumping $5000 into axles that they are still stock., To me they are not stock. It like saying his 40s are stock because they are on a 17in wheel.

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[Zandcwhite]

If you watch the video, the axles are not stock, The title is way misleading. He has upgraded all the axle shafts, the knuckles and re-geared them, then put two different sets of ball joints in them

So saying that he is running stock axle is just not true. The only thing left stock is the housing and then he still tell you he is very careful with the lines he takes and is very aware of how and where he goes.

But hey maybe some people think that dumping $5000 into axles that they are still stock., To me they are not stock. It like saying his 40s are stock because they are on a 17in wheel.

They aren't 60's, which is exactly what I wrote. They aren't even trussed. Stock housings, upgraded shafts, upgraded ball joints, and a re-gear. The same upgrades that most do for anything over 35's. Those trail grapplers are 104lbs each. Back to your ratchet analogy, we are talking a lever that is a mere 1.5" longer when going from 37's to 40's. That trail grappler weighs 18% more than an mtr in the same size. Give your wife a ratchet that's 1.5" longer and see which of you produces more torque? If you want to build a heavyweight rig, throw tons, heavy tires, and all the steel you want at it. I wheeled a wagoneer on tons and 42's for years. No axle problems, but I did blow up the transfer case twice. I'll stick with lighter and more maneuverable myself this go round. It's part of the reason I'm keeping the stock 4.10's. U-joints in either the drivelines or front axle are now my weak point on purpose and fixing them is easy.

 

[wibornz]

They aren't 60's, which is exactly what I wrote. They aren't even trussed. Stock housings, upgraded shafts, upgraded ball joints, and a re-gear. The same upgrades that most do for anything over 35's. Those trail grapplers are 104lbs each. Back to your ratchet analogy, we are talking a lever that is a mere 1.5" longer when going from 37's to 40's. That trail grappler weighs 18% more than an mtr in the same size. Give your wife a ratchet that's 1.5" longer and see which of you produces more torque? If you want to build a heavyweight rig, throw tons, heavy tires, and all the steel you want at it. I wheeled a wagoneer on tons and 42's for years. No axle problems, but I did blow up the transfer case twice. I'll stick with lighter and more maneuverable myself this go round. It's part of the reason I'm keeping the stock 4.10's. U-joints in either the drivelines or front axle are now my weak point on purpose and fixing them is easy.

So 95% of the axle is upgraded and it is still stock? I gave my wife a JLUR with stock axles, she twisted the rear axle shafts with 37s, I upgraded the rear axles to Yukon chromoly axle shafts, she then ripped two teeth off the pinion gear with 37s. Do not underestimate my wife, or the impact of a larger lever. LOL.


The point is they are not stock. The thread is 40 in tires on stock axles, the video was about 40 on stock axles. If you throw $5 grand at something in upgrades, you no long are stock and to represent it as stock is disingenuous. Every time you strengthen something, you just move the weak point as you wrote and it is true. 40s find the weak spots, they greatly reduce the reliability, and the longevity of the stock axles.

Maybe the video should have been titled, All the upgrades I did to a Dana 44 axle to be able to carefully wheel it with out destroying it.

 

[Zandcwhite]

So 95% of the axle is upgraded and it is still stock? I gave my wife a JLUR with stock axles, she twisted the rear axle shafts with 37s, I upgraded the rear axles to Yukon chromoly axle shafts, she then ripped two teeth off the pinion gear with 37s. Do not underestimate my wife, or the impact of a larger lever. LOL.


The point is they are not stock. The thread is 40 in tires on stock axles, the video was about 40 on stock axles. If you throw $5 grand at something in upgrades, you no long are stock and to represent it as stock is disingenuous. Every time you strengthen something, you just move the weak point as you wrote and it is true. 40s find the weak spots, they greatly reduce the reliability, and the longevity of the stock axles.

Maybe the video should have been titled, All the upgrades I did to a Dana 44 axle to be able to carefully wheel it with out destroying it.

The ring and pinion are stronger the higher the gears, so I wouldn't call that an upgrade to allow 40's. Ball joints and shafts, I'd call that 90% stock at least. He's clearly on tough trails, if picking smart lines and not bouncing it through obstacles is carefully wheeling, I'm all in. This isn't a $2k yota forum. I'm not beating my jl through shit. If I wanted to bash my way through everything I'd have built another xj. I've broken D44 shafts, a ring and pinion, and multiple drive shafts in an xj on 35's, because I drove it like a dude in his 20's in a $3k rig. Make it or break it. You won't catch me driving the JL the same way some 20 years later.

 

[Petey003]

I am running 38’s w/ stock gearing. Drives really nice and I haven’t even recalibrated the Speedo.

How are these working out on stock axles? I just slapped on the 38” Pats myself!
Do you wheel tough tracks? Driving style? I’d love to hear your review so far!

 

[gerlbaum]

If you do light wheeling you’ll be fine with 37”. Anything more and you’re likely to break something pretty quick with 442 lb/ft of torque at 1800 rpm. However, for 99% of us all we’re gonna do is trail and light wheeling.

These engines are putting out the same torque as an unmodified 12v Cummins.

 

[yotajeeper]

I have RCV axles in the front. They are good to 43s. That just means the weak spot was moved to the axle housing. Sure you can gusset the stock axles. By the time you re-gear the axle, gusset the axle, put hd ball joints in the axle and put axle shafts in the axle, you might as well put one tons on it.

HD Ball Joints. = $629 + install
RCV axle =. $1399 + install
Re-gear =. $1000 installed
Gusset = $400. + install

with labor to do the work, you are so close to one ton axles that you might as well buy one ton axles. Sure some of us can do the labor, but I am thinking most can't. I am pretty good with a set of tool and can weld, but I would still pay someone to do the gears, and weld the gussets on the axle.

If you have the money to upgrade and axle all the way so that you can wheel 40s, what is another grand or so to do it right. Pull the stock axle off and sell them and then you are the same money as as if you just bought one tons.

I look back at my progression with my axles, and wish I would have just pulled the trigger. But I replaced things as they broke or wore out. So here I sit with Dana 44 axles that have been upgraded and sure they should be okay, but hey for just about the same money at the end of the day, I could have had one tons and done it right.

Ultimate Dana 60s are 16k. Dynatrac 20k plus. Curries 18k. Doesn’t include 8 lug wheels and new drive shafts. There is no comparison on cost unless you build them in your garage

 

[Vinman]

What does DDDD mean?

4 D”s
Now sound it out

 

[J0E]

The bigger the tire, the more stress that is created to the drive train. Think of it like taking off a stuck bolt, use a regular length ratchet vs a long breaker bar for example, the bolt is the axle, the length of the ratchet is the size of the tire from the hub. You can't budge the stuck bolt, but increase the length of the ratchet... and then the bolt is easily broke free because of the added leverage of the longer handle. This is exactly what is happening each time you go up in tire size. You just make it easier to twist axles, rip teeth off the ring and pinion, bust u-joints or twist drive shafts. The bigger the tire, the more likely you are to find the weak spot. Each time you upgrade something, you are really just move the weak spot another part of the system.

Exactly. The common myths in off road forums are tire/wheel weight have a significant impact on stressing the axle. Not true, it's R X F (Radius Cross Force). A 15" wide, 37" tall tire can add more F than a 12.5" W x 37" tall tire because it has a bigger footprint, but that's like pushing a bit harder on a same ratchet. But going to a 40" tire gives you 1.5" more leverage to break something.

Other common myths, you need to truss an axle with bigger tires. Bending/breaking the axle is a function of vehicle weight, not tire weight. The most obvious myth, bigger tires need bigger brakes. That should be obviously false, brakes slow down the momentum of the vehicle (M*V mass times velocity).

 

[2020 Rubi Diesel]

4 D”s
Now sound it out

You are really late to the party...

 

[JLDIESEL]

40s with the front trussed and gussed. Regeared to 4.88. Once I bend a shaft, I’ll upgrade shafts.

 

[bumpit]

The math on a 60 being close the cost of a built 44 is some fuzzy math. Even building junkyard axles you'd be closer to 10k if you used new parts.

I've got 4900$ in my JL axles and that includes 4.88 gears, Reid knuckles, ball joint deletes, RCV fronts , chromoly rears and front and rear truss. That even includes the labor I had to pay for the truss.

Find me a set of 60s for $4900 that are setup with brackets for a JL to bolt in. I'm not denying a 60 is the better choice but that's some math I use when I'm justify parts cost with my wife lol.

I don't think it's quite the same but this reminds me of all the people who said you'd blowup a jk44 on a 37. You can break anything if you drive by brail. If seen a 300m RCV snap in a Dana 60. He was also

 

[J0E]

40s with the front trussed and gussed. Regeared to 4.88. Once I bend a shaft, I’ll upgrade shafts.

Twist a shaft?

The math on a 60 being close the cost of a built 44 is some fuzzy math. Even building junkyard axles you'd be closer to 10k if you used new parts.

I've got 4900$ in my JL axles and that includes 4.88 gears, Reid knuckles, ball joint deletes, RCV fronts , chromoly rears and front and rear truss. That even includes the labor I had to pay for the truss.

Find me a set of 60s for $4900 that are setup with brackets for a JL to bolt in. I'm not denying a 60 is the better choice but that's some math I use when I'm justify parts cost with my wife lol.

I don't think it's quite the same but this reminds me of all the people who said you'd blowup a jk44 on a 37. You can break anything if you drive by brail. If seen a 300m RCV snap in a Dana 60. He was also

Not fuzzy
It's wrong

 

[Zandcwhite]

The math on a 60 being close the cost of a built 44 is some fuzzy math. Even building junkyard axles you'd be closer to 10k if you used new parts.

I've got 4900$ in my JL axles and that includes 4.88 gears, Reid knuckles, ball joint deletes, RCV fronts , chromoly rears and front and rear truss. That even includes the labor I had to pay for the truss.

Find me a set of 60s for $4900 that are setup with brackets for a JL to bolt in. I'm not denying a 60 is the better choice but that's some math I use when I'm justify parts cost with my wife lol.

I don't think it's quite the same but this reminds me of all the people who said you'd blowup a jk44 on a 37. You can break anything if you drive by brail. If seen a 300m RCV snap in a Dana 60. He was also

The math gets a little less fuzzy if you sale the stock axles with $0 in them for $4k. You'd still be hard pressed to get a set of 60s under a JL for $8900 but you're a lot closer. Junkyard 60s could be done in that price range, but you'd likely have issues with abs and traction control and a dash full of warning lights. A set of fusion 60s are $18k but they do come with upgraded steering links saving you another $500. Still some pretty fuzzy math to go from $9500 to $18k...

 

[1996cc]

On a side note, axles are easy to swap out even out on the trail if they are broke, Ring and pinion can not be swapped out on the trail.

Not always. My buddy’s diesel on 37”s caused this carnage. Took welding a nut to the shaft and BEATING the ever-living snot out of it to get it out of the carrier.

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