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40" tires on stock axles.

GSLSE21B

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I have RCV axles in the front. They are good to 43s. That just means the weak spot was moved to the axle housing. Sure you can gusset the stock axles. By the time you re-gear the axle, gusset the axle, put hd ball joints in the axle and put axle shafts in the axle, you might as well put one tons on it.

HD Ball Joints. = $629 + install
RCV axle =. $1399 + install
Re-gear =. $1000 installed
Gusset = $400. + install

with labor to do the work, you are so close to one ton axles that you might as well buy one ton axles. Sure some of us can do the labor, but I am thinking most can't. I am pretty good with a set of tool and can weld, but I would still pay someone to do the gears, and weld the gussets on the axle.

If you have the money to upgrade and axle all the way so that you can wheel 40s, what is another grand or so to do it right. Pull the stock axle off and sell them and then you are the same money as as if you just bought one tons.

I look back at my progression with my axles, and wish I would have just pulled the trigger. But I replaced things as they broke or wore out. So here I sit with Dana 44 axles that have been upgraded and sure they should be okay, but hey for just about the same money at the end of the day, I could have had one tons and done it right.
Exactly why I had dana60/14bolt within 1000 miles of new ..
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JimLee

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i like the look of your jeep without the bumper. Maybe its the white of the LED fenders but i don't remember mine looking this good when i took the stock bumper off.
A Warn winch plate (W/winch) and some Evo bolt on recovery points really completes the look. And, the Warn plate is probably stouter than most bumpers. One of these days i'll get around to cutting those "tusks" off.
Jeep Wrangler JL 40" tires on stock axles. 20200525_131007

Jeep Wrangler JL 40" tires on stock axles. 20200525_143345

Jeep Wrangler JL 40" tires on stock axles. 20200530_114820
 

bgenesis12

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A Warn winch plate (W/winch) and some Evo bolt on recovery points really completes the look. And, the Warn plate is probably stouter than most bumpers. One of these days i'll get around to cutting those "tusks" off.
Jeep Wrangler JL 40" tires on stock axles. 20200530_114820

Jeep Wrangler JL 40" tires on stock axles. 20200530_114820

Jeep Wrangler JL 40" tires on stock axles. 20200530_114820
I was actually just thinking this before seeing your comment. Some sort of plate instead of a stubby bumper. Never really seen one like what im imagined out in the wild. your rig looks good too. do you have a link to that plate? i might be changing out my stubby bumper...... lol
 

JimLee

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I was actually just thinking this before seeing your comment. Some sort of plate instead of a stubby bumper. Never really seen one like what im imagined out in the wild. your rig looks good too. do you have a link to that plate? i might be changing out my stubby bumper...... lol
I sent you a PM to avoid further derailing this thread, sorry dudes!
 

SSWIM

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40"s on stock axles??? All depends on your choice of wheeling. If you are going to wheel it "hard" ie. serious rock crawling I don't think they will survive. Plus how one attacks obstacles. If you have a "lead" foot you are going to break. So many variables. I am running them on my 392 and am not going to do anything "stupid". Mostly exploring and such. Colorado, San Juans, Utah, Moab-Golden Spike and such. Anything "hard core" will be with the JK.

Sam
 

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wibornz

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A Warn winch plate (W/winch) and some Evo bolt on recovery points really completes the look. And, the Warn plate is probably stouter than most bumpers. One of these days i'll get around to cutting those "tusks" off.
Jeep Wrangler JL 40" tires on stock axles. 20200530_114820

Jeep Wrangler JL 40" tires on stock axles. 20200530_114820

Jeep Wrangler JL 40" tires on stock axles. 20200530_114820
I love this look and was real close to doing this just a few weeks ago. Then I remembered that my wife also drives the Jeep and we both run shit over. I have a new bumper on order right now and waiting for it to come in. I have to change the front bumper because my old one will not fit the new Warn winch that I bought. When looking at the old bumper, I can see many hits that it has taken and have touched it up with black paint often from scrapes. So, I don't think I am conservative enough while wheeling to get away with out a strong front bumper.

Yet that looks sweet.
 

wibornz

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40"s on stock axles??? All depends on your choice of wheeling. If you are going to wheel it "hard" ie. serious rock crawling I don't think they will survive. Plus how one attacks obstacles. If you have a "lead" foot you are going to break. So many variables. I am running them on my 392 and am not going to do anything "stupid". Mostly exploring and such. Colorado, San Juans, Utah, Moab-Golden Spike and such. Anything "hard core" will be with the JK.

Sam
Wisdom typed right there.
 

wibornz

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Going full build right out the gate would be cheaper in the long run, but at that point going full buggy would have been far cheaper too. Same as you, we've upgraded and replaced over time as needed. Hell we kept and wheeled the jeep stock for the first year. Then it was simple spacer lift and 37's. The progression is part of the fun. Even though we could afford it, it is a tough pill to swallow to drop $25k into upgrading a brand new $60k rig... to go beat on rocks. My point is more that the difference between 37's and 40's isn't some magical breaking point. Especially when comparing a heavy 37 to a light 40. A light 40 on a light non-beadlock is lighter than some 37's on beadlocks. That combination puts less stress on the drivetrain than the 37, as it's weight and rotating mass that breaks parts. Between wheeling smart, picking good lines, and not getting throttle happy a light 40" combo could live a long life without a lot of those upgrades. I've broken front 44 and rear 60 shafts in my old xj with ultra heavy 35x14.50 pitbulls, because I drove it like a beater xj. We will never drive the jl to that extreme. Anything can break, there's no magic formula or exact line in the sand as people build up in their heads that will or won't be the breaking point. Some examples just in case most haven't looked up tire weights. 37x13.50r17 geolander x-mt=84lbs. Then we hear "I'll stick with 38s because you need tons for 40s". Trail grappler 38x13.50r17=90.4lbs. Meanwhile Goodyear wrangler mt-r 40x13.50r17= 86lbs. Factor in the average full beadlock weighs 10-12lbs more than a standard aluminum wheel and you could easily run a 40" wheel+tire package that is lighter than many 37" set ups. The new icon beadlocks are 3-5 lbs lighter than traditional beadlocks so even if you want beadlocks it is possible. If you want to run 40's on stock axles, smart tire choice and self control make it doable.
Smart choice and self control are not what make 40s attractive..... Weight is just part of the the overall formula, size of the tire is what multiples the stress to the drivetrain. The bigger the tire, the more stress that is created to the drive train. Think of it like taking off a stuck bolt, use a regular length ratchet vs a long breaker bar for example, the bolt is the axle, the length of the ratchet is the size of the tire from the hub. You can't budge the stuck bolt, but increase the length of the ratchet... and then the bolt is easily broke free because of the added leverage of the longer handle. This is exactly what is happening each time you go up in tire size. You just make it easier to twist axles, rip teeth off the ring and pinion, bust u-joints or twist drive shafts. The bigger the tire, the more likely you are to find the weak spot. Each time you upgrade something, you are really just move the weak spot another part of the system.
 

wibornz

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On a side note, axles are easy to swap out even out on the trail if they are broke, Ring and pinion can not be swapped out on the trail.
 

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So using an extra letter to abbreviate 40s. Seems legit! :like:
I’m just the one who like, cracked the code, man. You can take up the efficiency of language with that inebriated chicken
 

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I’m just the one who like, cracked the code, man. You can take up the efficiency of language with that inebriated chicken
Jeep Wrangler JL 40" tires on stock axles. unnamed

Maybe should've used this instead????
 

willem.lock

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We’re running 39” KM3’s on ours with stock axles at the moment (will see how long they last…). Biggest issue up to now has been the rear tires rubbing on the pinch weld seem. We’re at 4.5” lift and 4” of bump stop in the back to make it so it doesn’t rub. I trimmed the rear pinch weld as much as I dared. The extra bump stop does impact your flex so keep that in mind.

CE26B6B9-2F97-4CF4-9DEC-D2B39D3B85C8.jpeg


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Zandcwhite

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Smart choice and self control are not what make 40s attractive..... Weight is just part of the the overall formula, size of the tire is what multiples the stress to the drivetrain. The bigger the tire, the more stress that is created to the drive train. Think of it like taking off a stuck bolt, use a regular length ratchet vs a long breaker bar for example, the bolt is the axle, the length of the ratchet is the size of the tire from the hub. You can't budge the stuck bolt, but increase the length of the ratchet... and then the bolt is easily broke free because of the added leverage of the longer handle. This is exactly what is happening each time you go up in tire size. You just make it easier to twist axles, rip teeth off the ring and pinion, bust u-joints or twist drive shafts. The bigger the tire, the more likely you are to find the weak spot. Each time you upgrade something, you are really just move the weak spot another part of the system.

40k+ miles, heavy as hell trail grapplers (and even stickies for 6k miles), again no you don’t have to go 60’s to run 40’s…
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