392 Towing?

[danba]

Connected the trailer today -

Trailer tongue weight: ~285#

Sag at the hitch:
JLUR392 (non-XR) factory suspension....... 1.5"
AEV Dual Sport XP 2.5" suspension............ 1.0"

Note that with the AEV suspension I still have positive rake with the camper attached (when measuring from the front/rear of side steps to the ground). Unfortunately I did not check this measurement with the OEM suspension.

For me the jury is still out regarding need for airbags. When I have the camper attached the Jeep is also loaded heavy with overlanding gear (fridge, battery, camping gear) so will have to evaluate total sag when setting up for the next outing.

LF

Have you got the Standard or the Heavy springs?

Also, are you using a weight distribution hitch?

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[cseaman]

Connected the trailer today -

Trailer tongue weight: ~285#

Sag at the hitch:
JLUR392 (non-XR) factory suspension....... 1.5"
AEV Dual Sport XP 2.5" suspension............ 1.0"

Note that with the AEV suspension I still have positive rake with the camper attached (when measuring from the front/rear of side steps to the ground). Unfortunately I did not check this measurement with the OEM suspension.

For me the jury is still out regarding need for airbags. When I have the camper attached the Jeep is also loaded heavy with overlanding gear (fridge, battery, camping gear) so will have to evaluate total sag when setting up for the next outing.

LF

thank you!

 

[Left Field]

Have you got the Standard or the Heavy springs?

Also, are you using a weight distribution hitch?

Standard 2.5" AEV springs
No WD hitch (yet...)

LF

 

[danba]

Have you got the Standard or the Heavy springs?

Standard 2.5" AEV springs
No WD hitch (yet...)

LF

Thanks. The WD hitch is essential in fixing the stress on the rear springs. That's THE fix. Adding airbags or stronger springs will mask the symptoms only. It will still put the force on the rear, affecting steering, breaking, etc.

Brake controller, a Weight Distribution AND Sway Control hitch is a must for safe towing in my humble opinion.

 

[cseaman]

You brake with brakes. Not breaks. That's not a humble opinion.

 

[JSFoster75]

Tow ratings are not based on how much you can pull, rather, it is based on what you can safely bring to a stop...

My 2021 Toyota Venza is rated at around 1,500 lbs., however, I know that I can tow much more with it as long as I allow for a lot of extra slow down/stop room, etc... I've easily pulled 2,500+ lbs and couldn't even tell it was behind me while driving... But stopping was certainly a noticeable difference...

 

[danba]

You brake with brakes. Not breaks. That's not a humble opinion.

We found ourselves a spelling bee champion.

 

[Left Field]

Max tow ratings for the US 'Big Three' manufacturers are now determined by a common standard (SAE J2807) which allows direct comparison between different models and manufacturers.

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1502-sae-j2807-tow-tests-the-standard/

The tests include:
1) Launch on grade (12% grade, e.g. boat ramp)
2) Cooling system performance - highway grade test (3500' climb up an 11.4 mile grade at 100F ambient with maximum AC setting)
3) 0-30 mph and 0-60 mph timed test
4) Sway response test
5) Braking test (for tow ratings above 3000 lbs)

I suspect #2 and #4 above may be the limiting factors for our Wranglers. There may also be legal caution baked in to our rating due to the knowledge that many of us modify our suspensions and/or run larger tire sizes.

Regarding the braking test, 43 states require trailer brakes for trailers above 3000 lbs - the SAE threshold (some states are less than 3000 lbs). The remaining 7 states are all over the board.

FWIW, my camper has a max weight of 2500lbs and has trailer brakes. Out of caution I perform annual calibration checks with my brake controller. That appears to work, as while towing I find no noticeable impact on stopping distance. That said, I still drive with extra distance, especially if there are wet roads, curves, downhill grades or heavy traffic.

I haven't recently had to tow up any high elevation steep grades with 100F temperatures, but did numerous times with my last Jeep. We'll see how the 392 fares when that next happens...

LF

 

[RudeJeepin]

Was that with a brake controller + weight distribution system or without?

Mopar brake controller, Curt sway control, but no weight distribution hitch. 7x12 dual axle extra height enclosed trailer.

The WDH would help a bit, but there really wasn't any noticeable bucking or swaying.
Some of my bias probably comes from the fact, I've towed that same trailer with full size 1/2 ton 1500 ecodiesel, 3/4 ton Ram Cummins and 1 ton Chev Duramax, before the Wrangler. Is it doable? Sure. For sure there are better setups. My Gladiator ecodiesel definitely does better, RedArc brake controller, Curt sway control bar and no WDH. This spring I'll see how it does with the extra interior build out and reevaluate the WDH.
My trailer is basically a box on wheels, probably 9ish foot from ground to top of trailer. I'm sure a nice tear drop or lower slung trailer would be better.

Just an FYI, I did the RedArc because it was a bit cheaper, faster to get delivered and I could keep the 12v plug. I actually missed the 12v plug in the Wrangler.

 

[danba]

Mopar brake controller, Curt sway control, but no weight distribution hitch. 7x12 dual axle extra height enclosed trailer.

The WDH would help a bit, but there really wasn't any noticeable bucking or swaying.
Some of my bias probably comes from the fact, I've towed that same trailer with full size 1/2 ton 1500 ecodiesel, 3/4 ton Ram Cummins and 1 ton Chev Duramax, before the Wrangler. Is it doable? Sure. For sure there are better setups. My Gladiator ecodiesel definitely does better, RedArc brake controller, Curt sway control bar and no WDH. This spring I'll see how it does with the extra interior build out and reevaluate the WDH.
My trailer is basically a box on wheels, probably 9ish foot from ground to top of trailer. I'm sure a nice tear drop or lower slung trailer would be better.

Just an FYI, I did the RedArc because it was a bit cheaper, faster to get delivered and I could keep the 12v plug. I actually missed the 12v plug in the Wrangler.

I'm a fan of the Redarc myself. Used Tokasima (sp?) before, but the little red is just as good.

In your picture it seems that back springs are compressed while the front are lifted. That's where a weight distribution system will help. There are videos on Youtube describing the necessity of WD for safe towing.

 

[RudeJeepin]

I'm a fan of the Redarc myself. Used Tokasima (sp?) before, but the little red is just as good.

In your picture it seems that back springs are compressed while the front are lifted. That's where a weight distribution system will help. There are videos on Youtube describing the necessity of WD for safe towing.

I believe it's an optical illusion. I only get about 1 inch of rear sag with SxS loaded in the trailer. That trip was camping only so trailer was lighter. Tows smooth, with no bucking caused from excessive tongue weight.
I know all about WDHs, I've had more than one and used them with 2 different camp trailers behind 6 different tow vehicles.
I am firm believer in WDH and sway control bars or combos of the two. Once I get done with my build out I'll probably end up with a lightweight setup. Nothing like my 1000pound bars for the last camp trailer.

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