38s on 3.5" What rubs?

  1. 4xnaz

    4xnaz Well-Known Member

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    38x13.5x17 Milestar Patagonias on 17x9 wheels. 3.5" Metalcloak Game Changer lift using 2 pucks of bump stop up front and 3 in the rear. So what needed to be done to make sure there wasn't any tire clearance issues?

    By removing the inner fender liners and chopping the OEM fenders that eliminated any possible fender contact. Now the only issue is contact at the pinch seam on the lower rear corner at the rear fenderwells. Trimming about an inch off that rear corner should work.

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  2. TDS

    TDS Well-Known Member

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    Exactly what thread I was looking for! I have MC Rocksport 3.5" lift, 17x9 (-12mm offset) and 38 Patagonias. I have been looking at the American Adventures high line kit. I have another problem I need to solve first. I installed the Steersmarts Flip drag link, track bar relocation bracket and tie rod assembly, this was before it was known the flip link rubs even with 3" of bump stop when used with a MC lift. Are you still running all the stock steering components? If so any issues with bump steer or is hard to turn when crawling? Anything else up front rubbing or close to rubbing with 2" of bump stop? I have 3" of bump stop front and back, nothing rubs up front (besides the SS), the rear barley hits the plastic on the inner fender by the pinch weld in the rear, wonder why yours hits and mine doesn't? Is it the difference in the 1" less in bump stop? This is my first Jeep and first time building something to go rock crawling with, learning articulation is everything. Going to buy the rest of the control arms that did not come in the Rocksport kit and try and eliminate as much bump stop as possible. Anything you have already learned and can pass on would be greatly appreciated!
     
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  3. OP
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    4xnaz

    4xnaz Well-Known Member

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    I've seen first hand what a top mount Steersmart drag link will do when the passenger side is fully tucked. Let's just say that when drag link gets introduced to frame, frame always wins. LOL.

    I have ZERO issues running 2" bump stops up front. All the lines and wires going to the axle have been freed from their attachment points so nothing will get ripped away. The tires don't have any contact inside the fenderwells by removing the bottom half of the fender and OEM liners.

    All my steering is still original. I had huge bump steer immediately after the lift was installed but after going to an Alignment Shop and having my caster set to 6, no more issues. Also added the Falcon 2.2 steering stabilizer, just for good measure.

    Eventually my steering will get upgraded but I'm keeping my eyes out for a fix with the Steersmart system or even looking at what Synergy is offering and it's reliability. Even hydro assist might be an option because crawling in 4lo and locked, the Gravy Train doesn't agree with anything other than a straight line! LOL

    Good luck with your build!
     
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  4. TDS

    TDS Well-Known Member

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    Thanks,

    Yeah I am trying to avoid the drag link vs frame fight, lol. Thanks for the info. I have a message out to roam, they say their flip link will work on a stock height JLUR, I will keep you posted on my finds. FYI, the flip link made a huge difference on being able to turn while locked up in 4 low, all the way tell it hits the frame, lol! Might be time to sell the flip link and go hydro.
     
  5. SSVi

    SSVi Active Member

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    So what all would be involved in the fender chop? Cutting/reshaping to the desired amount, but then wouldn’t you have to prime and paint the whole thing to get the color to blend? I’m assuming I’ll have to do the same thing, just seems like a ton of work.
     
  6. TDS

    TDS Well-Known Member

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    Here you go. There are two or three companies with brackets and lights to do this. Here is the one I ordered and the one 4xnaz used or latest the one I think he used
     
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  7. SSVi

    SSVi Active Member

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    Uh...no. The rear fender chop. No one’s talking about lights and front fender flares.
     
  8. TDS

    TDS Well-Known Member

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    I just posted that video to show you how the fenders come apart, thought that was your question. If your talking about 4xnaz referring to having to cut the pinch weld that is on the tub itself then your not talking about the fenders like we were. The pinch weld is part of the wheel well not the fenders.
     
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    4xnaz

    4xnaz Well-Known Member

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    The rear fender chop is super easy, separating the top portion from the bottom portion. What I was referring too about the rear, is the actual sheet metal of the pinch molding at the lower rear corner of the rear fenderwell. I haven't trimmed this small area yet because I'm still weighing my options. Either folding the corner back upon itself, cutting the corner back completely off or just using a grinder to trim it back. I'll post as soon as I find out what I'm going to do.

    0521191036~2.jpg
     
  10. SSVi

    SSVi Active Member

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    Yeah let me know what/how you do it!
     
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  11. LunchBoxFab

    LunchBoxFab Well-Known Member

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    watch the video

    it tells you how to do it...
     
  12. SSVi

    SSVi Active Member

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    Yep, that’s not what I’m talking about at all. I’ll wait for 4xnaz to get it completed.
     
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  13. LunchBoxFab

    LunchBoxFab Well-Known Member

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    you can if you want, but i guess what we are trying to tell you is its the same as the front

    rip them apart...
     
  14. SSVi

    SSVi Active Member

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    I’m not talking about the fender FLARES. I’m talking about the actual fenders where he has to cut the bottom metal corner hitting his rear tire.
     
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  15. OP
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    4xnaz

    4xnaz Well-Known Member

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    I think I made up my mind and might try it tonight. I'll tape off the corner area I want to trim off, draw my cut on the tape, use a cutting wheel to remove the corner and then use a grinder to shape it and smooth it out....prime, paint. Sounds easy enough. Its not like the rear of the tub is going to completely come apart, right?!?!?! LOL
     
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