35s with no lift?

[Reece]

I finally just got my JLU from the dealer after having to wait for inventory and when I was in the back with the finance guy, he told me that he fit 35s on his wrangler with no lift. Can someone confirm? I am planning on purchasing the following :

BFGoodrich All Terrian TA/KO2 35/12.5/20
Fuel Trigger 20x9 offset +.01mm

Will this set up fit my stock 2021 Wrangler Unlimited Sahara Altitude?

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[SilverSurfer]

Please, not 20’ wheels?!?

Rather go for a 35/12.5/17

Respect your Jeep dude…

 

[Herson]

They will fit, you will rub. Even the Rubicon will rub with anything other than factory offset.

 

[Reece]

@TTEChris thoughts?

I finally just got my JLU from the dealer after having to wait for inventory and when I was in the back with the finance guy, he told me that he fit 35s on his wrangler with no lift. Can someone confirm? I am planning on purchasing the following :

BFGoodrich All Terrian TA/KO2 35/12.5/20
Fuel Trigger 20x9 offset +.01mm

Will this set up fit my stock 2021 Wrangler Unlimited Sahara Altitude?

 

[thegame81]

don't do 20s bro...

 

[Reece]

@SilverSurfer @thegame81 I totally respect both of your opinions and you are 100% correct as 20s I can imagine would counter functionally.

I dont get off road much and am primarily going for looks. Don't judge me haha.

 

[thegame81]

@SilverSurfer @thegame81 I totally respect both of your opinions and you are 100% correct as 20s I can imagine would counter functionally.

I dont get off road much and am primarily going for looks. Don't judge me haha.

Hey at least your honest and you're making the payments so do whatever you want! You're right!

 

[Headbarcode]

I finally just got my JLU from the dealer after having to wait for inventory and when I was in the back with the finance guy, he told me that he fit 35s on his wrangler with no lift. Can someone confirm? I am planning on purchasing the following :

BFGoodrich All Terrian TA/KO2 35/12.5/20
Fuel Trigger 20x9 offset +.01mm

Will this set up fit my stock 2021 Wrangler Unlimited Sahara Altitude?

Just a heads up. Tires for 20" wheels tend to have a D or E load rating. Couple that to a thinner sidewall and more wheel to tire mass, the result will be a stiffer and harsher ride on road. Some notice it and others don't. It depends on what each person is used to driving before the Jeep. If you happen to be used to a soft and pliable ride, you may be in for a rude awakening. As I'm writing this, I'm wondering if the Altitude is the model that comes from the factory with 20's? If so, you already know how it'll feel.

Also, that 43.45mm increase in scrub radius will wear through the factory steering linkages, ball joints, and center bearing assemblies at a faster rate. You should consider upgrading the tie rod and drag link, which will better resist the added forces that your proposed tire and wheel combo will put on your Jeep.

Again, just a heads up. Not at all trying to be pessimistic, just trying to avoid another member posting about a stiff ride that resulted after a bunch of money spent on 20's and E-rated 35's. By the way, factory 17" wheels come with C-rated tires. And again, I'm not sure if the Altitude is the model that already has 20's or what their tires load rating is.

And welcome to the community! Congratulations on your new Jeep!

 

[music293]

Just a heads up. Tires for 20" wheels tend to have a D or E load rating. Couple that to a thinner sidewall and more wheel to tire mass, the result will be a stiffer and harsher ride on road. Some notice it and others don't. It depends on what each person is used to driving before the Jeep. If you happen to be used to a soft and pliable ride, you may be in for a rude awakening. As I'm writing this, I'm wondering if the Altitude is the model that comes from the factory with 20's? If so, you already know how it'll feel.

Also, that 43.45mm increase in scrub radius will wear through the factory steering linkages, ball joints, and center bearing assemblies at a faster rate. You should consider upgrading the tie rod and drag link, which will better resist the added forces that your proposed tire and wheel combo will put on your Jeep.

Again, just a heads up. Not at all trying to be pessimistic, just trying to avoid another member posting about a stiff ride that resulted after a bunch of money spent on 20's and E-rated 35's. By the way, factory 17" wheels come with C-rated tires. And again, I'm not sure if the Altitude is the model that already has 20's or what their tires load rating is.

And welcome to the community! Congratulations on your new Jeep!

This is the type of response that we should expect, rather than someone else suggesting that OP is "disrespecting Jeep" by putting 20's on it. Gross.

Everyone has a different vision or purpose for their rig. Some folks just want it for cruising the pavement. Others want to crawl the gnarliest rocks. To each their own.

But what I like about this post is that you've taken the time to explain what the trade-off is between wheel size in terms of feel and capability. From there, OP can decide what is right. Good on ya, mate.

 

[lalalofsky]

To piggyback on what @Headbarcode was saying. I added aftermarket 17s 4.5bs fuel kicker 5s to my 4 door sport on 315/70r17 which is basically 34.4“. If your offset is +1 that would be 5.04 ish inches of backspacing, which i dont think will work. I could be wrong but i believe i have about an inch or so perhaps a bit more of clearance at my lower control arms at Full lock. I had added rubicon flares and suspension in order to be sure I wouldn’t bump or rub vertically when just driving on the pavement. I ran that setup for a few months till i had time to install a lift.

My tires are Load E. They are 87 something pounds and my set up is over 105 pounds. Thats a lot of unsprung weight AND and hard stiff tire. Ideally when i can choose again I’d get a lighter tire and go for C. The extra ply is great for wheeling with an E, but there is not real need for it.

Also dont forget to think of your tires as part of your suspension that weight of the wheel and tire really does effect the on road feel, as well as the thickness of the tire.

 

[Headbarcode]

To piggyback on what @Headbarcode was saying. I added aftermarket 17s 4.5bs fuel kicker 5s to my 4 door sport on 315/70r17 which is basically 34.4“. If your offset is +1 that would be 5.04 ish inches of backspacing, which i dont think will work. I could be wrong but i believe i have about an inch or so perhaps a bit more of clearance at my lower control arms at Full lock. I had added rubicon flares and suspension in order to be sure I wouldn’t bump or rub vertically when just driving on the pavement. I ran that setup for a few months till i had time to install a lift.

My tires are Load E. They are 87 something pounds and my set up is over 105 pounds. Thats a lot of unsprung weight AND and hard stiff tire. Ideally when i can choose again I’d get a lighter tire and go for C. The extra ply is great for wheeling with an E, but there is not real need for it.

Also dont forget to think of your tires as part of your suspension that weight of the wheel and tire really does effect the on road feel, as well as the thickness of the tire.

Good point about backspace. If the OP does have any tire to lower control arm rub with his mentioned setup, it probably won't be by much if any at all. He could simply adjust the steering stops out just a tad, which will prevent that possible rub while not causing a noticeable amount of lost turning circle.

 

[lalalofsky]

Good point about backspace. If the OP does have any tire to lower control arm rub with his mentioned setup, it probably won't be by much if any at all. He could simply adjust the steering stops out just a tad, which will prevent that possible rub while not causing a noticeable amount of lost turning circle.

good point on steering stops. Not a huge fan, but i would say that its a quick fix with a low possibility if failing. (AssuMing washers hold up over time). The OP could opt for a 11.5 pizza cutter

 

[AcesandEights]

11.5 is a pizza-cutter nowadays, haha!

I remember the days of 33x9.5 or 35x9.5.

ETA: I have 35x10x17 on order...just waiting for production.

 

[Reece]

Can you please make some recommendations on tie rods and drank links I could install. Forgive me as I am new to all this.

Also, about much would these two items cost me?

Just a heads up. Tires for 20" wheels tend to have a D or E load rating. Couple that to a thinner sidewall and more wheel to tire mass, the result will be a stiffer and harsher ride on road. Some notice it and others don't. It depends on what each person is used to driving before the Jeep. If you happen to be used to a soft and pliable ride, you may be in for a rude awakening. As I'm writing this, I'm wondering if the Altitude is the model that comes from the factory with 20's? If so, you already know how it'll feel.

Also, that 43.45mm increase in scrub radius will wear through the factory steering linkages, ball joints, and center bearing assemblies at a faster rate. You should consider upgrading the tie rod and drag link, which will better resist the added forces that your proposed tire and wheel combo will put on your Jeep.

Again, just a heads up. Not at all trying to be pessimistic, just trying to avoid another member posting about a stiff ride that resulted after a bunch of money spent on 20's and E-rated 35's. By the way, factory 17" wheels come with C-rated tires. And again, I'm not sure if the Altitude is the model that already has 20's or what their tires load rating is.

And welcome to the community! Congratulations on your new Jeep!

 

[Headbarcode]

Can you please make some recommendations on tie rods and drank links I could install. Forgive me as I am new to all this.

Also, about much would these two items cost me?

My 1st setup was the SteerSmarts tie rod and drag link. Top shelf quality parts. Here's a pic of mine and some links to Northridge 4x4. That company is great to deal with. I've gotten the majority of my parts from them. They are a forum sponsor here, so they offer us a member discount coupon code: JLWRANGLERFORUM. They are also very active here, as is their lead installer Tim.

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/tie-rods/78076001-steer-smarts-yeti-xd-standard-tie-rod-assembly

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/drag-links/78075001-steer-smarts-yeti-xd-bottom-mount-draglink

Since we're delving into it, I should also mention that ditching the factory tie rod means that you will also be losing its integrated stabilizer mount. This is where we snowball into a stabilizer upgrade and relocation. If you look at my above pic, you'll see that it now sits above the tie rod instead of hanging as the lowest part on the front end.

Here's the stabilizer that I went with. Ignore it saying that it's only for the JK. It will work with the 1-5/8" diameter Steersmarts tie rod. And finally the last piece to complete the relocation. A simple bracket that bolts to the track bar bracket on the axle, providing the mounting point for the other end of the stabilizer.

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...2-0-performance-series-ts-steering-stabilizer

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...eti-xd-steering-stabilizer-relocation-bracket

Depending on your budget, you could space out these purchases and wait on the install until everything's collected. Your factory parts aren't going to fail at the sight of the wheels and tires you're interested in. They just won't last as long as they would with your factory setup.

And don't ever hesitate to reach out. It's what most of us are here for.

Cheers, buddy!

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