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35" vs 37" Tires (and lift) on a JLRU for Daily Driver at 70-90 mph

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HealthRebel

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I was told by my dealer I could not put any tire bigger than a 35 on my stock Rubicon wheels..
I contacted Nitto because I
Your dealer is wrong.
I contacted Nitto about mounting the Ridge Grapplers on the stock Rubicon wheels. Since the data on the tire states the minimum recommended wheel width is 8.5" and the Rubi wheel is only 7.5", I was told by the Nitto rep that it will void the warranty. A lot of people are running 35" and 37" tires on the stock wheels, but...
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She mentioned nothing about width in her original post.

Nitto's 35x11.5R17 Trail Grappler will fit on the 7.5" factory wheel, zero issues and will still have their warranty.

Scroll down for more info in the 17" variety:

https://www.nittotire.com/light-truck-tires/trail-grappler-mud-terrain-light-truck-tire/

***EDIT*** Ah...but she said anything bigger than 35s.....and due to the width and warranty, the dealer was probably correct unless you're talking a specialty off road tire like the old 38.5x11 Bogger or similar.

That said, a 35x12.5 or larger will fit on the Rubicon wheels...and frankly, while Nitto is free to write whatever caveat they want about what they'll warranty and what they won't, another tire company (like a Discount) would likely warranty it without issue.

Personally, running wider tires on the narrower rim is better offroad as the bead is harder to unseat at lower pressure (provided you aren't running beadlocks)...but they will tend to crown and wear the center of the tread more quickly and are more sensitive to chalk tests and air pressure.

Oh, and JFYI...the 11.5 version is C rated, not E like the 12.5.
She mentioned nothing about width in her original post.

Nitto's 35x11.5R17 Trail Grappler will fit on the 7.5" factory wheel, zero issues and will still have their warranty.

Scroll down for more info in the 17" variety:

https://www.nittotire.com/light-truck-tires/trail-grappler-mud-terrain-light-truck-tire/

***EDIT*** Ah...but she said anything bigger than 35s.....and due to the width and warranty, the dealer was probably correct unless you're talking a specialty off road tire like the old 38.5x11 Bogger or similar.

That said, a 35x12.5 or larger will fit on the Rubicon wheels...and frankly, while Nitto is free to write whatever caveat they want about what they'll warranty and what they won't, another tire company (like a Discount) would likely warranty it without issue.

The Trail Grappler comes in a 35 x11.5 x17” that has a minimal wheel width recommendation of 7.5”. This will fit fine on the factory Rubicon wheel.

The Ridge Grappler does not show the 11.5” width as an option, only the 12.5”. This is the tire I specifically asked Nitto about and was told that mounting it on a 7.5” width wheel (factory Rubicon wheel) is not recommended and would void the warranty. 2 Discount Tire locations I contacted will not mount the Ridge Grapplers on a 7.5” wheel. I’m just reporting the information I was told.
 
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I'm failing to see your point here @HealthRebel . No, the Nitto Ridge Grapplers won't work....the Trails will. So either buy Trail Grapplers in that size or get different wheels or find someone who will mount what you want on the factory wheels. You have options.
Relax! It's all good.

My initial point was in reference to the Nitto Ridge Grappler's ONLY and how a lot of people are having them mounted on the stock Rubicon wheels, which are 1" too narrow according to the data on Nitto's website. Not such a good idea if you want to have a warranty on them according to the rep I spoke with at Nitto. Maybe another Nitto rep will provide a different opinion. Not sure.

Yes... lots of options with wheel/tire combinations.
 
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Did I seem like I wasn't relaxed, lol? :)

This is going to get repetitive....you're seeing what's common in offroad tires...them being mounted on rims that are narrower than the mfr's spec.

Obviously, if you're seeing them mounted on factory wheels, there are shops that are doing the mounting since I doubt many people here know how to mount their own. That means that if the shop mounted it, and they have a warranty policy at said shop, the shop will warranty the tire...and no, mounting it on slightly narrower than spec rim isn't going to cause anything more than premature tread wear.

Essentially, if you really want to run that tire on the factory 7.5" wheel....you can; you just have to find a shop that will do it and offers warranty.
:rock:
 

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Obviously, if you're seeing them mounted on factory wheels, there are shops that are doing the mounting since I doubt many people here know how to mount their own. That means that if the shop mounted it, and they have a warranty policy at said shop, the shop will warranty the tire...and no, mounting it on slightly narrower than spec rim isn't going to cause anything more than premature tread wear.
Not all. Lol. Tire changer in the shop

67794234_333177957587350_4710765025545945088_n.jpg
 

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I gave it a ton of thought on my Sahara. I do a good amount of highway driving. I went 37x13.50’s. V6 and Auto. I did test fit 38’s. I will prob go 38’s on my rubi.
Hello. I may be a tad late but I had plans on running 37s on a Sahara as well. Could I ask what lift and suspension upgrades/adjustments you made? Also have you had any issues or noticed a major decline in ride quality?
 

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I think you can swing 37s on 2 inches of lift with the right wheels. But keep in mind that you are opening a signifcant can of worms. A stock suspension on 35s will ride and handle pretty nicely for your highway commute and will have pretty good ground clearance on the weekends. Nice looking stance too. A lifted jeep with 37 inch tires is going to be a LOT less fun on the highway, for one additional inch of clearance at the pumpkins (though break-over, approach and departure angles will be better). 37s put a lot more strain on the axles, brakes and other drivetrain components. And that is in addition to the big price you pay on handling, gas milage hit, gearing/acceleration, road noise, cost etc.,

In other words, 35s on a stock Rubicon suspension represent a good chunk of the value for a tiny fraction of the cost and aggravation. No doubt 37s have some real advantages (and millions of fans), but they take you down a significant wormhole of "I had to upgrade this because I upgraded that." If your Jeep will spend every single weekend on the trails and you don't mind the tradeoffs during the week, it's certainly worth it. But if it is primarily a highway vehicle, used for very occasional trail-running, you might want to just spend a little bit of the money 37s will end up costing you on a winch and tow strap and don't worry about needing to pull cable or take a bypass once every couple years. A Rubicon on 35s is an extremely capable vehicle - probably more capable than most drivers are skilled?
Wow, I'm so glad I happened upon your response...very informative! I've always had pickup trucks and am relatively new to owning a Jeep.
I have had my Rubicon for about a year and a half, and would like more aggressive tires without the headache of a lift, shock/spring replacement since it is a on-road vehicle Monday-Friday and an off-road Saturday, Sundays, and Summer...mostly beach driving. Can anyone recommend a size for nicer rims and a specific aggressive 35 tire? Ideally I'd love a little wider than the stock Rubicon so would you recommend spacers? Thank you for any help!
 

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Wow, I'm so glad I happened upon your response...very informative! I've always had pickup trucks and am relatively new to owning a Jeep.
I have had my Rubicon for about a year and a half, and would like more aggressive tires without the headache of a lift, shock/spring replacement since it is a on-road vehicle Monday-Friday and an off-road Saturday, Sundays, and Summer...mostly beach driving. Can anyone recommend a size for nicer rims and a specific aggressive 35 tire? Ideally I'd love a little wider than the stock Rubicon so would you recommend spacers? Thank you for any help!
Most, if not all, 35x12.5's come with a weight rating in either D or E. That often results in a noticeably harsher ride. The slightly smaller metric equivalent size of 315/70-17 is fast more abundantly available with the C rating meant for Jeep's. Just thought that was worth mentioning.

A wheel with less positive offset is worlds better than using spacers. Also, most tire manufacturers warranties would be voided by mounting a wider than factory tire on the factory 7.5" wheel.
 

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No lift. 37s.
Sean,
Can we see a pic, please?
What wheel and tires are you running?
Do you take it offroad and where does it rub?
 

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Jeep Wrangler JL 35" vs 37" Tires (and lift) on a JLRU for Daily Driver at 70-90 mph 67794234_333177957587350_4710765025545945088_n


Jeep Wrangler JL 35" vs 37" Tires (and lift) on a JLRU for Daily Driver at 70-90 mph 67794234_333177957587350_4710765025545945088_n


DV8 17x9 Beadlocks with custom rings, I think -20mm offset and Spidertrax spacers. Tires are PBRRs.

It doesn't....b/c I cut off anything that got in the way. Need to build fenders for it, just haven't had time.
Awesome! LCOG is the direction I want to go as well. Your's is the first I've seen that actually wheels.
 

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Most, if not all, 35x12.5's come with a weight rating in either D or E. That often results in a noticeably harsher ride. The slightly smaller metric equivalent size of 315/70-17 is fast more abundantly available with the C rating meant for Jeep's. Just thought that was worth mentioning.

A wheel with less positive offset is worlds better than using spacers. Also, most tire manufacturers warranties would be voided by mounting a wider than factory tire on the factory 7.5" wheel.
Thanks!
I was thinking of switching the wheels to 9" wide to compensate for the 35" tire.
I would like to go bigger with the wheels and tires but don't want the whole issue of changing shocks and springs, and re-gearing the tranny (I have manual).
I just don't know if I'm getting into a world of headache.
I don't mind the harsher ride...I only put about 5k miles on it per year
 

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Thanks!
I was thinking of switching the wheels to 9" wide to compensate for the 35" tire.
I would like to go bigger with the wheels and tires but don't want the whole issue of changing shocks and springs, and re-gearing the tranny (I have manual).
I just don't know if I'm getting into a world of headache.
I don't mind the harsher ride...I only put about 5k miles on it per year
You can definitely get away with 35's on stock suspension. I ran the 315's i previously mentioned on stock wheels and no spacers. Only minor rubbing on the inner fender liners at full flex. On a wheel with less positive offset, would give a more aggressive stance. Here's pics of both stock and stock with 315's.
Jeep Wrangler JL 35" vs 37" Tires (and lift) on a JLRU for Daily Driver at 70-90 mph 20190827_084948
Jeep Wrangler JL 35" vs 37" Tires (and lift) on a JLRU for Daily Driver at 70-90 mph 20190827_132710
Jeep Wrangler JL 35" vs 37" Tires (and lift) on a JLRU for Daily Driver at 70-90 mph 20190827_085047_resized
Jeep Wrangler JL 35" vs 37" Tires (and lift) on a JLRU for Daily Driver at 70-90 mph 20190827_132759_resized
 

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You can definitely get away with 35's on stock suspension. I ran the 315's i previously mentioned on stock wheels and no spacers. Only minor rubbing on the inner fender liners at full flex. On a wheel with less positive offset, would give a more aggressive stance. Here's pics of both stock and stock with 315's.
20190827_084948.jpg
20190827_132710.jpg
20190827_085047_resized.jpg
20190827_132759_resized.jpg
Pictures look great! The 35s really make a huge difference looks-wise. You said you run the new 35s on the stock wheels with only minor rubbing. Do you believe there would be more or less rubbing if I went to 9 inch wheels? Sorry if that sounds dumb...I'm reasonably good with automobile stuff but for some reason never really understood positive and negative offset.
Thanks for the help :)
 

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Pictures look great! The 35s really make a huge difference looks-wise. You said you run the new 35s on the stock wheels with only minor rubbing. Do you believe there would be more or less rubbing if I went to 9 inch wheels? Sorry if that sounds dumb...I'm reasonably good with automobile stuff but for some reason never really understood positive and negative offset.
Thanks for the help :)
Well, the stock wheels are 17x7.5 with +44.5 mm offset. Offset indicates where the mounting surface of the wheel is, in relation to both the face and back of a wheel. Zero offset would be dead center. The higher the number gets on the positive side, the face of the wheel will get flatter. The higher it gets on the negative side, the more sunken in the face gets.

To maintain the factory distance between the wheel and frame, you'll want the extra 1.5" of that 17x9 wheel on the outer face side. 1.5" = 38.1mm. 44.5mm - 38.1mm = 6.4mm.

All that means you'd want nothing higher than a +6mm offset wheel.

One of the many things told to me since I was a very young child, is that the only thing dumb about a question is not asking it.

Cheers!
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