315 KO2's with and without lift - any rubbing?

[virginia_is_for_rubis]

Hi y'all,

Apologize if this isn't the right section. Just got a new 2020 JLUR and am planning on going to 315/70r17 KO2's and doing a lift and had a fewquestions.

1. Does 315/70r17 KO2's fit on the stock rims, no lift, with no rubbing on road, even at full lock? If I adjust the bumpstops properly, would there be rubbing offroad at full flex? For 0% rubbing, do I need wheel spacers?
2. I'm looking at the Dynatrac 2" lift (this will be a 90% onroad rig, so ride quality and LCOG is important). With the 2" lift, will anything rub without getting wheel spacers? I know some lift kits I've seen say they require aftermarket wheels with better backspace.
3. The driving is tight up until ~60mph, and then starts to get a bit squirrelly, especially in high winds (but not any moreso than my old JK). Would any of this resolve that, or do I need a new steering stabilizer?

Basically, my current plan would be steering stabilizer (if needed) -> 315 KO2's on stock rims, but only if theres 0 onroad rubbing -> 2" Dynatrac lift. Is that doable?

Thanks!

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[1idrod]

I have 315's and no rubbing but on mopar faux beadlock wheels no lift no problem . Drives great

 

[NPE102414]

I have 315's and no rubbing but on mopar faux beadlock wheels no lift no problem . Drives great

You may have them mounted in a dot method but they are not a faux beadlock wheel. They are a true functioning beadlock wheel when mounted in that fashion. A faux wheel would be one of the million wheels out there with a fake ring and non functioning hardware.

 

[NPE102414]

Hi y'all,

Apologize if this isn't the right section. Just got a new 2020 JLUR and am planning on going to 315/70r17 KO2's and doing a lift and had a fewquestions.

1. Does 315/70r17 KO2's fit on the stock rims, no lift, with no rubbing on road, even at full lock? If I adjust the bumpstops properly, would there be rubbing offroad at full flex? For 0% rubbing, do I need wheel spacers?
2. I'm looking at the Dynatrac 2" lift (this will be a 90% onroad rig, so ride quality and LCOG is important). With the 2" lift, will anything rub without getting wheel spacers? I know some lift kits I've seen say they require aftermarket wheels with better backspace.
3. The driving is tight up until ~60mph, and then starts to get a bit squirrelly, especially in high winds (but not any moreso than my old JK). Would any of this resolve that, or do I need a new steering stabilizer?

Basically, my current plan would be steering stabilizer (if needed) -> 315 KO2's on stock rims, but only if theres 0 onroad rubbing -> 2" Dynatrac lift. Is that doable?

Thanks!

What do you mean by squirrelly, and what do you mean by adjusting you bump stops? You can get taller bump stops but that will limit flex. I have a 2” lift with 35 Load range E tires and mine is rock solid up to and past 80. I don’t like driving a lifted Jeep past 75 so its a moot point but you may have issues that need to be addressed before you go and lift it and change tires because that will only amplify problems that currently exist. If I were you I would get the Mopar lift and have the dealership install it. Of course it will be more money but you will have the added security of a warranty if and when you develop steering issues. Unless you do all your own wrenching and have the ability and knowledge to fix any steering issues that come up yourself I would go Mopar. The dealer will tell you to pound sand if you go in there with steering issues and an aftermarket lift. I installed a Teraflex ST1 spacer lift which is 2” in the front and 1.5” in the rear at a 150 miles and had nothing but issues from the get go. I do all my own wrenching and spent a lot of time and money to get it right. Example, adjustable track bars to center my axles again, non stop tire pressure fiddling to correct the Insane wandering issue I had at low speed. To make a long story short I finally dialed it into a perfect ride, now it’s going in on Thursday for a dealer installed Mopar lift. I want Jeep to own any issues that may come up in the future. I have the knowledge, tools and ability to fix any issue that comes up, but I shouldn’t have to after spending $55k on a new Rubicon. Do yourself a favor and stick with a dealer installed Mopar lift and enjoy your new Rubi. A steering stabilizer will only make a good steering Jeep steer better, it will not fix any underlying issues. Just my opinion.

 

[word302]

What do you mean by squirrelly? I have a 2” lift with 35 Load range E tires and mine is rock solid up to and past 80. I don’t like driving a lifted Jeep past 75 so its a moot point but you may have issues that need to be addressed before you go and lift it and change tires because that will only amplify problems that currently exist. If I were you I would get the Mopar lift and have the dealership install it. Of course it will be more money but you will have the security of the warranty if and when you develop steering issues. Unless you do all your own wrenching and have the ability and knowledge to fix any steering issues that come up yourself I would go Mopar. The dealer will tell you to pound sand if you go in there with steering issues and an aftermarket lift. I installed a Teraflex ST1 spacer lift which is 2” in the front and 1.5” in the rear at a 150 miles and had nothing but issues from the get go. I do all my own wrenching and spent a lot of time and money to get it right. Example, adjustable track bars to center my axles again, non stop tire pressure fiddling to correct the i saint wandering issue I had at low speed. To make a long story short I finally dialed it into a perfect ride but it’s going in on Thursday for a dealer installed Mopar loft, their going to own any issues that come up in the future. I have the knowledge, tools and ability to fix any issue that comes up, but I should t have to after spending $55k on a new Rubicon. Do yourself a favor and stick with a dealer installed Mopar lift and enjoy your new Rubi. A steering stabilizer will only make a good steering Jeep steer better, it will not fix any underlying issues.

Curious where your caster was if you were getting constant wandering. There's plenty of dealers that will still address warranty issues with an aftermarket lift. There's no way I'd put that underperforming lift on my rig just to get warranty work done.

 

[NPE102414]

I’m running stock LCA’a at the moment so obviously caster is not adjustable, but it’s within spec at .14. I wouldn't call it an underperforming lift but I concede it’s by no means complete. There are much better options for heavy trail use, but it’s one of the best options for a weekend warrior that sees a lot of DD action. I’ll also add that there are different lifts for different rigs and the Mopar lift fits the bill perfectly for a mostly DD Jeep. I’ve run it on my Jk and it’s by far one of the best tuned lifts for street and weekend warrior trail use. I am a big Teraflex fan and I already have adjustable front and rear TB and a Falcon 2.1 SS. After the lift I’ll complete it with all 8 adjustable LCA’s and call it a day. That to me is the perfect combo, street ride, good on the trails and still under warranty.

 

[NPE102414]

Curious where your caster was if you were getting constant wandering. There's plenty of dealers that will still address warranty issues with an aftermarket lift. There's no way I'd put that underperforming lift on my rig just to get warranty work done.

My wandering issues were caused primarily because of tire pressure. I also found my drag link was finger tight at the knuckle. After I dialed in the correct PSI and torqued that nut to spec it was a night and day difference.

 

[word302]

I’m running stock LCA’a at the moment so obviously caster is not adjustable, but it’s within spec at .14. I wouldn't call it an underperforming lift but I concede it’s by no means complete. There are much better options for heavy trail use, but it’s one of the best options for a weekend warrior that sees a lot of DD action. I’ll also add that there are different lifts for different rigs and the Mopar lift fits the bill perfectly for a mostly DD Jeep. I’ve run it on my Jk and it’s by far one of the best tuned lifts for street and weekend warrior trail use. I am a big Teraflex fan and I already have adjustable front and rear TB and a Falcon 2.1 SS. After the lift I’ll complete it with all 8 adjustable LCA’s and call it a day. That to me is the perfect combo, street ride, good on the trails and still under warranty.

Meh. There's better kits out there that perform better on road and blow the Mopar kit away off road (Metalcloak and Rock Krawler). What do you mean by .14 on your caster? It's measured in degrees with something in the neighborhood of 5.5 to 6.5 degrees being ideal.

 

[Jeeper Fever]

Hi y'all,

Apologize if this isn't the right section. Just got a new 2020 JLUR and am planning on going to 315/70r17 KO2's and doing a lift and had a fewquestions.

3. The driving is tight up until ~60mph, and then starts to get a bit squirrelly, especially in high winds (but not any moreso than my old JK). Would any of this resolve that, or do I need a new steering stabilizer?

Thanks!

My wandering issues were caused primarily because of tire pressure. I also found my drag link was finger tight at the knuckle. After I dialed in the correct PSI and torqued that nut to spec it was a night and day difference.

Yea, tire pressure is the first fix to check for handling issues. The factory ships at around 50 psi to prevent flat spots from forming, and the dealers almost never check anything, so you get a new Jeep with around 44 psi or so. First thing I did was go around the corner to a local parts store, and got a tire pressure gauge. Lower those puppies to 36, and it rides much better, but I took 'em down to 28 and the handling got better the whole way. They still look rounded but the shoulders touch the ground now, I should do a chalk test.

Your steering stabilizer is likely just fine, but first set your tire pressure, then check the torque on all suspension components if the tire pressure did not do enough for you.

 

[NPE102414]

Meh. There's better kits out there that perform better on road and blow the Mopar kit away off road (Metalcloak and Rock Krawler). What do you mean by .14 on your caster? It's measured in degrees with something in the neighborhood of 5.5 to 6.5 degrees being ideal.

Sorry that was a Siri typo, mine is at about 4.9 to 5.0 so defenetely within spec although could use a little more, adjustable LCA’s will solve that.

 

[NPE102414]

Sorry that was a Siri typo, mine is at about 4.9 to 5.0 so deeding within spec although could use a little more, adjustable LCA’s will solve that.

Better is subjective, both those companies are great yes, but again ride quality is a subjective thing

 

[NPE102414]

Meh. There's better kits out there that perform better on road and blow the Mopar kit away off road (Metalcloak and Rock Krawler). What do you mean by .14 on your caster? It's measured in degrees with something in the neighborhood of 5.5 to 6.5 degrees being ideal.

And when you say perform better, that’s also subjective. Your ideas of performance might be different then mine. I think the Dual Rate is a great lift paired with their mono tube shocks but it rode really stiff in my buddies JL. And a lift is the sum of different parts, really only springs and shocks. One brand might come with more but doesn’t make it better. I thought about the Metal Cloak dual rate, great complete kit, roughly $2k and some change with shocks, but didn’t like the ride, was too stiff on road. But hey, that’s why there’s something for everyone.

 

[virginia_is_for_rubis]

Okay, I wrench on all my own vehicles and wouldn't pay (or trust) a dealer to do it.

I'm running ~36psi cold, and there's still a small amount of play in the steering wheel, along with a small amount of wander (doesn't track 100% straight), what I meant by "squirrelly."

Can anyone actually answer my original question - do 315s fit, no rub at full lock on road, on a stock JLUR on the stock wheels? And if I go with a ~2" lift, there would still be no issues, right?

 

[mikej]

This thread might help:
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/post-pics-of-your-rubicon-on-35s-no-lift.14656/

 

[Headbarcode]

Okay, I wrench on all my own vehicles and wouldn't pay (or trust) a dealer to do it.

I'm running ~36psi cold, and there's still a small amount of play in the steering wheel, along with a small amount of wander (doesn't track 100% straight), what I meant by "squirrelly."

Can anyone actually answer my original question - do 315s fit, no rub at full lock on road, on a stock JLUR on the stock wheels? And if I go with a ~2" lift, there would still be no issues, right?

I'm currently running 315 ko2's on stock rims and no spacers. Zero rub on road and only minor rub off road. At full flex, the rear tire lightly touches the inner fender liner.

I'm also going to install the dynatrac endurosport because I too want as low of cog as possible, and they seem like one of the only kits that are not only "true 2 inch", but also have shocks specifically tuned to the springs that are designed for daily driver comfort and handling while also increasing off road capability.

Where we differ though, is that I'm also beefing up the control arms, front and rear track bars, and all the steering linkages to combat the increased forces that come with lift and larger diameter tires. I also want the ability to adjust caster/pinion and to recenter the axles fore and aft and side to side.

I would recommend at least replacing the front lower control arms along with the dynatrac, to maintain a solid 6° caster. Oh, and I found that the 315's are happy at 30psi cold.

I'm waiting for a few more puzzle pieces before project beef up can begin. My brother offered his help with the install, so the extra hands should make wrestling the axels a breeze. Hopefully it'll be done in the next couple weeks. I'll update here if this thread is still open ended.

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