3.6L vs 2.0 turbo?? Pros and cons of both??

Shaved Ice

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't Jeep start off with e-torque in the 4 cylinder and now it's completely flipped and the turbos don't have the e-torque and V6 does for year 2021?
I didn’t know that. Glad I got what I got. Thanks





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Dusty

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Well you almost have most of that right except weight...

"The four-cylinder is 55 lbs heavier than the V6; the automatic transmission weighs 15 lbs less than the manual."
Ok. You got me.

Correction: The 2.0T beats the 3.6 in every way except weight. The 3.6 is an older design, gets worse fuel mileage, has less torque and horsepower, accelerates slower, but weighs what amounts to one Grp 27 battery less than the 2.0T.

Sorry for the earlier misstatement.
 

AnnDee4444

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chilly_one

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A little off topic but......Why do you disable the start/stop when you have the eTorque? I get it if you had the non-eTorque 3.6 due to the high probability of having starting and electrical issues due to the very small auxiliary battery. But the eTorque system start/stop is very smooth and seamless. It doesn't have the same electrical issues which are so prevalent with the non-eTorque system.
I will be the first to admit that the ESS is pretty smooth on the 3.6 e-torque. But I do notice that ESS engine stops affect the AC, and frankly it's been hot and humid as hell in Virginia this summer. So I often find myself disabling the ESS when I'm driving around town.
 

Crusifix

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I will be the first to admit that the ESS is pretty smooth on the 3.6 e-torque. But I do notice that ESS engine stops affect the AC, and frankly it's been hot and humid as hell in Virginia this summer. So I often find myself disabling the ESS when I'm driving around town.

Hmm. If it is like what is in my 2.0, it should keep the engine on if it is actively cooling. I do think that it allows for about a 4 degree variance, but it isn't that noticeable for me, even on 100°+ days.
 

SSWIM

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Hmm. If it is like what is in my 2.0, it should keep the engine on if it is actively cooling. I do think that it allows for about a 4 degree variance, but it isn't that noticeable for me, even on 100°+ days.

My ESS shuts off the engine when the AC is on. It tapers off real fast. I just disable it.


Sam
 

Alanaloo

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That is crazy, I am sorry to hear that, what was the engine doing? Did they tell you how long it would take to get that done?
Crazy indeed! This entire thing has been a nightmare.
I noticed the issue when I was accelerating, I was getting the herky jerky. I took it straight to the dealership and they diagnosed a misfire on cylinder 1. Then the issue with the metal grounding tip on the spark plug being gone and nowhere to be found was the reason for a complete engine swap. All of this 2 weeks after I drove it off the lot and 600 miles. It took right at 2 weeks for the repair. However when I went to pick it up I noticed the right front fender flares was completely scratched up from the service techs, I was livid . So they offered to replace that while I waited. After about an hour the service manager came out and told me that he noticed something rattling and it just didn't sound right. He took another look and found a loose bolt on the exhaust, it was somewhat stripped. Of course they didn't have a replacement bolt and just couldn't let me drive away in that condition so they had to keep it for a few more days to get that repaired. But they were going to let me drive away the first time with the scratched fender flares and loose bolt. Hmmmmm.....
Well, I have my Jeep and it just doesn't seem the same. I am constantly wondering if something else will go wrong or if something is still wrong. Is it in my head....maybe, but my faith in this vehicle has been shook!
 

Windshieldfarmer

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It certainly ruins the enjoyment of having a brand new Jeep. That said...drive it for a while and let things break in a bit. I’m guessing you’ll feel better about it in a week or two.
 

aldo98229

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Crazy indeed! This entire thing has been a nightmare.
I noticed the issue when I was accelerating, I was getting the herky jerky. I took it straight to the dealership and they diagnosed a misfire on cylinder 1. Then the issue with the metal grounding tip on the spark plug being gone and nowhere to be found was the reason for a complete engine swap. All of this 2 weeks after I drove it off the lot and 600 miles. It took right at 2 weeks for the repair. However when I went to pick it up I noticed the right front fender flares was completely scratched up from the service techs, I was livid . So they offered to replace that while I waited. After about an hour the service manager came out and told me that he noticed something rattling and it just didn't sound right. He took another look and found a loose bolt on the exhaust, it was somewhat stripped. Of course they didn't have a replacement bolt and just couldn't let me drive away in that condition so they had to keep it for a few more days to get that repaired. But they were going to let me drive away the first time with the scratched fender flares and loose bolt. Hmmmmm.....
Well, I have my Jeep and it just doesn't seem the same. I am constantly wondering if something else will go wrong or if something is still wrong. Is it in my head....maybe, but my faith in this vehicle has been shook!
It gives me no pleasure to say it, but I told you so...
 

aldo98229

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What??? That’s a crappy asshat response....
Clearly you have no idea about a previous conversation.

On another thread I encouraged Alanaloo to take the dealer’s offer to have her then 2-week old Jeep replaced with a new one. It was going to be an arduous process, but a choice she would be happier with in the long run. Instead, she chose to keep her Jeep and have the dealer replace the motor. She was totally in her right.

But as can be expected, more so with FCA dealers, things never go as planned and now she is unhappy with the Jeep.

I would be too if I had a brand-new, very expensive Jeep that just spent three of the past five weeks in the shop, has a new motor, damaged body work, an exhaust with stripped mounts that rattles, and who knows what else will pop up at this point.

Live and learn, unfortunately.
 
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Alanaloo

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Clearly you have no idea about a previous conversation.

On another thread I encouraged Alanaloo to take the dealer’s offer to have her then 2-week old Jeep replaced with a new one. It was going to be an arduous process, but a choice she would be happier with in the long run. Instead, she chose to keep her Jeep and have the dealer replace the motor. She was totally in her right.

But as can be expected, more so with FCA dealers, things never go as planned and now she is unhappy with the Jeep.

I would be too if I had a brand-new, very expensive Jeep that just spent three of the past five weeks in the shop, has a new motor, damaged body work, an exhaust with stripped mounts that rattles, and who knows what else will pop up at this point.

Live and learn, unfortunately.
Aldo98229 you are correct. Taking your previous advice and working with FCA on getting this resolved with a new Jeep. The process will be anything but painless. I'll keep ya posted.
 

aldo98229

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Aldo98229 you are correct. Taking your previous advice and working with FCA on getting this resolved with a new Jeep. The process will be anything but painless. I'll keep ya posted.
That’s great news!

It is awesome that your dealer still honored that option after-the-fact. Sounds like they are really trying to bend over backwards to make you happy. That’s half the battle right there.

Best of luck.
 

CoolToys

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From Car and Driver.

Unlimited Sahara 3.6

Curb weight: 4,469 lbs

Zero to 60 mph: 6.8 sec
Zero to 100 mph: 20.1 sec
Zero to 110 mph: 28.7 sec
Rolling start, 5-60 mph: 7.0 sec
Top gear, 30-50 mph: 3.3 sec
Top gear, 50-70 mph: 4.9 sec
Standing ¼-mile: 15.2 sec @ 90 mph


Unlimited Sahara 2.0 BSG

Curb weight: 4,549 lbs

Zero to 60 mph: 6.5 sec
Zero to 100 mph: 20.1 sec
Zero to 110 mph: 27.7 sec
Rolling start, 5–60 mph: 7.6 sec
Top gear, 30–50 mph: 3.8 sec
Top gear, 50–70 mph: 5.2 sec
Standing ¼-mile: 15.2 sec @ 90 mph
Car and Driver is the "perfect world".

As I noted in my longer earlier post, the big factor is simply the altitude you drive at. A turbo maintains power at high altitude and the normally aspirated does not. at 7000' crossing peaks and running around the Tahoe rim the pressure is about 11psi instead of 14.7. The simple physics are that there is 25% less air to be sucked down the intake and combine with fuel.

The turbo runs premium only so the fuel cost per mile runs me about the same.

Having had both, if you live in a low lying area and don't spend a lot of time on the road, get the 3.6 and save the uncharge. If you live in Denver or spend a lot of time at altitude I am sure you will be pleased with the 2.0t. The turbo is my daily driver now, although I am looking forward to testing the turbo eDiesel.

If you want to see my full opinion as the current owner of both, hit my profile and check out the earlier post.

Cheers
Scott aka COOLTOYS TV guy.
 

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