3.6L V6 24V VVT eTorque Engine vs. 3.6L V6 24V VVT Engine Upg I With Start Stop

[InVinoVeritasty]

If owners currently blessed with etorque choose the dark side, is there a path for them to strip all the etorque magic from their vehicle?

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[AFD]

If owners currently blessed with etorque choose the dark side, is there a path for them to strip all the etorque magic from their vehicle?

Honestly don't see how that could be done easily, if at all.

Even after bypassing the 48V battery (and coolant lines) and then somehow replacing the belt-driven generator with a standard alternator, the ECU would still be trying to do its magical wizardry of brake regen, start-stop w/torque boost and smoothing shifts. Without those components in place, the computer would probably freak out and light up your dash like a Christmas tree.

 

[J.Ralston]

Honestly don't see how that could be done easily, if at all.

Even after bypassing the 48V battery (and coolant lines) and then somehow replacing the belt-driven generator with a standard alternator, the ECU would still be trying to do its magical wizardry of brake regen, start-stop w/torque boost and smoothing shifts. Without those components in place, the computer would probably freak out and light up your dash like a Christmas tree.

That’s been my one concern because I had considered deleting mine and running an alternator to a previous 3.6 but the computer is the one draw back.

 

[AFD]

That’s been my one concern because I had considered deleting mine and running an alternator to a previous 3.6 but the computer is the one draw back.

Yeah, you'd probably have to source a non-eTorque ECU (or find someone that could program those specs) and then either install a small aux battery for ESS, or do the bypass for that.

I'm thinking that it would likely be easier to do a full electric conversion than trying to do a mild-hybrid to regular ICE conversion. The companies that are now starting to get into 'plug and play' EV kits appear to include new dashboards, and I'm guessing some sort of ECU/computer management to control everything..

https://insideevs.com/news/587822/electric-classic-cars-tesla-land-rover-defender/

At best, we'll probably be lucky if someone attempts a 48V swap to maybe a denser, larger capacity battery for the eTorque - and maybe some kind of ECU tweak to then improve the parameters of the +90TQ 1/4-wheel turn magic that's happening (+150HP/TQ off the line for maybe 5 seconds would at least be fun and slightly more useful getting to highway speeds).

If we can't get rid of the system, at least it would be nice to know how to eventually repair/replace it or even upgrade it when the time comes.

 

[J.Ralston]

Yeah, you'd probably have to source a non-eTorque ECU (or find someone that could program those specs) and then either install a small aux battery for ESS, or do the bypass for that.

I'm thinking that it would likely be easier to do a full electric conversion than trying to do a mild-hybrid to regular ICE conversion. The companies that are now starting to get into 'plug and play' EV kits appear to include new dashboards, and I'm guessing some sort of ECU/computer management to control everything..

https://insideevs.com/news/587822/electric-classic-cars-tesla-land-rover-defender/

At best, we'll probably be lucky if someone attempts a 48V swap to maybe a denser, larger capacity battery for the eTorque - and maybe some kind of ECU tweak to then improve the parameters of the +90TQ 1/4-wheel turn magic that's happening (+150HP/TQ off the line for maybe 5 seconds would at least be fun and slightly more useful getting to highway speeds).

If we can't get rid of the system, at least it would be nice to know how to eventually repair/replace it or even upgrade it when the time comes.

The one thing that I considered doing and just might work is using the cpu from an ESS JLUR assuming they are different from the eTorque ones, then doing the dual large battery set up and the one plug and play flash thing that allows you to permanently turn off the stop/start feature but that has never been done before. At least to my knowledge anyway so it would only work in theory. Maybe?…

 

[AFD]

The one thing that I considered doing and just might work is using the cpu from an ESS JLUR assuming they are different from the eTorque ones, then doing the dual large battery set up and the one plug and play flash thing that allows you to permanently turn off the stop/start feature but that has never been done before. At least to my knowledge anyway so it would only work in theory. Maybe?…

Since they're assembling everything on the same production line, there definitely has to be a way to do a conversion, both physically and then computer-side. Might even be a way to reprogram your existing ECU in a manner similar to using a laptop or stand-alone tuner after installing a supercharger (something more invasive than JScan or Tazer).

Really not sure if we'll ever see an aftermarket solution for something like that, and DIY, it seems like a lot of risk and effort for something that might leave you with an inoperable brick. Then again, a dead 48V a decade or two from now potentially without an easily sourced replacement would be the same end result.

Unless you're feeling froggy at some point, we probably won't see someone try it until they absolutely have no other option for repair/replacement of the battery (and if EV battery packs were at least somewhat standardized across the industry, I likely wouldn't care as much).

 

[J.Ralston]

Since they're assembling everything on the same production line, there definitely has to be a way to do a conversion, both physically and then computer-side. Might even be a way to reprogram your existing ECU in a manner similar to using a laptop or stand-alone tuner after installing a supercharger (something more invasive than JScan or Tazer).

Really not sure if we'll ever see an aftermarket solution for something like that, and DIY, it seems like a lot of risk and effort for something that might leave you with an inoperable brick. Then again, a dead 48V a decade or two from now potentially without an easily sourced replacement would be the same end result.

Unless you're feeling froggy at some point, we probably won't see someone try it until they absolutely have no other option for repair/replacement of the battery (and if EV battery packs were at least somewhat standardized across the industry, I likely wouldn't care as much).

If I ever do attempt to do it I’m definitely waiting for the warranty to expire first.

 

[Vinman]

Sounds like a lot of people are trying to solve a problem that doesn’t exist.

And regarding the etorque start/stop system, mines been bypassed since shortly after I purchased the Jeep on Oct 2020. I just unplugged the hood plunger.

 

[AFD]

Sounds like a lot of people are trying to solve a problem that doesn’t exist.

Just like a cellphone, the 48V battery will not stay at/near full capacity forever and will eventually need to be replaced or otherwise dealt with. After the 8-year warranty is done, your options will either be replace (if still available), upgrade (if possible) or bypass/convert to traditional ICE.

It might not be a problem that exists right now, but one that will eventually.

 

[Capt. Don]

Yeah thats exactly why I rented a jeep.. they said you're not going to see much outside of san juan w/o an off road vehicle. I can only imagine after a good squall or hurricane! #islandlife

Funny you should say that about hurricanes. Here is the brushless touchless car wash in Puerto Rico today. Hurricane Fiona is about 65 miles south of us and we are expecting 18-25 inches of rain today. I have the perfect vehicle for this except all transportation is shut down until tomorrow “unless you are fleeing or under evacuation order” due to extreme flooding risk. Did you have to mention hurricanes?

 

[Rodeoflyer]

Oh yeah, just saw that's its CAT 1 now. I grew up in south Louisiana and know hurricanes well... hope to never see (or have to run from) one again!

 

[Capt. Don]

If I ever do attempt to do it I’m definitely waiting for the warranty to expire first.

That is a long time to wait, 8 years or 80,000 miles. Try going the other way. It is a torque curve filling system (one of its six modes). So try 4.56 gears (factory gearing on High Tide, Willys XR and JLURXR) and see how that wakes up the etorque system and 850re transmission and works smoothly to enhance responsiveness (really “squirt” is the better description) with the V-6. Even with 35s, that combination is a hoot to drive off the line and at less than 2,000 rpm, feeling the additional 90 lbs ft for a sustained number of seconds. With 4.56 gears you feel it. One fellow with a new JLUR with etorque V-6 told me about going to 5.10 gears and 37s and raved about waking up his etorque system and transmission to where he was saying, “Wow!” Other fellows with 3.20 and 3.70 gears don’t really feel any benefit from their etorque.

 

[Capt. Don]

That is a long time to wait, 8 years or 80,000 miles. Try going the other way. It is a torque curve filling system (one of its six modes). So try 4.56 gears (factory gearing on High Tide, Willys XR and JLURXR) and see how that wakes up the etorque system and 850re transmission and works smoothly to enhance responsiveness (really “squirt” is the better description) with the V-6. Even with 35s, that combination is a hoot to drive off the line and at less than 2,000 rpm, feeling the additional 90 lbs ft for a sustained number of seconds. With 4.56 gears you feel it. One fellow with a new JLUR with etorque V-6 told me about going to 5.10 gears and 37s and raved about waking up his etorque system and transmission to where he was saying, “Wow!” Other fellows with 3.20 and 3.70 gears don’t really feel any benefit from their etorque.

Correction- 5.13 gears, not 5.10.

 

[Capt. Don]

It does nothing off road. It is strictly for ESS.

Not true. Enhances rock climbing in low rpm and off-idle response. Consumer Reports that got some decent Jeep engineering support for their article stated that there are six modes in the etorque system. ESS is just one of those six.

 

[lowmpg]

Of note, remember when the eTorque battery finally dies out, you're looking at a 8K or better repair. Granted that should be around 100k miles but my friends truck did it under 50k.

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