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3.6L ESS IBS Information

JayJay

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HOWEVER i plan on putting 3 amp trickle in place and making sure FOB away from vehicle, and most importantly driving it more , which is why I bought the most iconic vehicle in history, albeit with a " few" bugs here and there......oh well
Attaboy! :like:
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mmcbeat

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After constantly having ā€œStart/Stop not available battery chargingā€, I took my 2019 Wrangler in for service. After a full day in the shop, I was told everything was fine, the issue is that I donā€˜t drive the vehicle enough. Truth be known, I havenā€™t driven the vehicle much the past year. I purchased the Jeep about 18 months ago and have 3,600 miles on it.
Jeep Wrangler JL 3.6L ESS IBS Information C213931B-5A3C-461E-9637-5D79EB6A4AEF
This was on the work order. Would someone with better knowledge than me regarding the IBS take a look and offer an opinion? On a multimeter both batteries read about 14.3 v. After getting my Jeep back from service I have driven it on two 75 mile rides at highway speeds. I also purchased A Battery Tender. I put it on the main battery and it indicated fully charmed in less than an hour, I disconnected both main battery cables and attached the Tender to charge the secondary battery, again fully charged. My start/stop still does not work. Iā€™m fine without start/stop but concerned there may be other problems. Thanks in advance for any help or advise.
 

Rhinebeck01

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After constantly having ā€œStart/Stop not available battery chargingā€, I took my 2019 Wrangler in for service. After a full day in the shop, I was told everything was fine, the issue is that I donā€˜t drive the vehicle enough. Truth be known, I havenā€™t driven the vehicle much the past year. I purchased the Jeep about 18 months ago and have 3,600 miles on it.
C213931B-5A3C-461E-9637-5D79EB6A4AEF.jpeg
This was on the work order. Would someone with better knowledge than me regarding the IBS take a look and offer an opinion? On a multimeter both batteries read about 14.3 v. After getting my Jeep back from service I have driven it on two 75 mile rides at highway speeds. I also purchased A Battery Tender. I put it on the main battery and it indicated fully charmed in less than an hour, I disconnected both main battery cables and attached the Tender to charge the secondary battery, again fully charged. My start/stop still does not work. Iā€™m fine without start/stop but concerned there may be other problems. Thanks in advance for any help or advise.
@mmcbeat

You state "I disconnected both main battery cables and attached the Tender to charge the secondary battery" ...

Can you give more detail in regard to the "both main battery cables". I'm just questioning if you actually separated out the 2 batteries..

You mention both batteries "read about 14.3". Who did those readings, you or tech?

Indeed, you can separate out the 2 batteries and charge them separately... but do know you can also just hook up the tender/maintained to the pos and neg terminals on the Main battery and BOTH batteries will be tended to / maintained..
 

mmcbeat

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@mmcbeat

You state "I disconnected both main battery cables and attached the Tender to charge the secondary battery" ...

Can you give more detail in regard to the "both main battery cables". I'm just questioning if you actually separated out the 2 batteries..

You mention both batteries "read about 14.3". Who did those readings, you or tech?

Indeed, you can separate out the 2 batteries and charge them separately... but do know you can also just hook up the tender/maintained to the pos and neg terminals on the Main battery and BOTH batteries will be tended to / maintained..
I took both positive and negative cables off the main battery, the main battery completely disconnected. I put the tender on the disconnected cables thinking it would charge only the secondary battery. I had previously had the tender on the main battery with cables attached.

When the engine is running the dash gauge indicates 14.2-14.3 as does my voltmeter. I assume this is for both batteries? the voltmeter shows 12.6v measured at the main battery with the engine not running.
 

Rhinebeck01

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I took both positive and negative cables off the main battery, the main battery completely disconnected. I put the tender on the disconnected cables thinking it would charge only the secondary battery. I had previously had the tender on the main battery with cables attached.

When the engine is running the dash gauge indicates 14.2-14.3 as does my voltmeter. I assume this is for both batteries? the voltmeter shows 12.6v measured at the main battery with the engine not running.
@mmcbeat

I'm not going to try to get you up to speed on the JL's dual battery system, but can tell by what you have said in this post and in your first post, that you do not have a handle at all, on the dual battery set-up of your JL..... Or, how to ascertain current voltage of each battery.

DO, take the time and research lots on the forum in regard to the dual batteries on your JL.

In the interim, do just hook up your battery maintainer/tender to the pos and neg. terminals on your Main battery. Let the tender/maintainer work until the tender/maintainer signals to you that the two batteries are topped off.

IF you drive very little, do hook up the battery tender/maintainer every 3 or 4 days and let it top off your batteries..
 

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@mmcbeat donā€˜t use the EVIC dash display to check voltage as this is influenced by the alternator, voltages should be checked directly at the battery with a reliable volt meter ( these are pretty cheap )

If your batteries are connected normally you cannot get a reliable reading as they are connected together so its best to remove the ESS negative off the main crank battery and then use your meter on the pos and neg of the main crank battery to check its voltage then while keeping the pos lead on the main crank move the negative to the ESS cable you disconnected and this will give you the ESS battery voltage.

As @Rhinebeck01 has advised itā€™s best to do a search and read on this as @Jebiruph has done a huge investment in time and research into the JLā€™s dual battery setup.
 

kd5pff

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I have had the issue of my ESS not working and the dash says "battery charging" for several months.
I never thought much about it until I read about the random faulty IBS.
I am running a genesis offroad dual battery system and got rid of the factory JL battery setup back in '19 when the jeep was new.
I have noticed that my charging voltage is always running around 14.3 (+/- 1v) which seemed odd because the voltage should drop as current demand drops. I have even charged the batteries overnight to make sure they were topped off with no luck.
Anyway, I wanted to get a part number from the IBS and wiggled the wires around, including the senor cable, and now magically it's working.....
My start stop works, my charging voltage changes as it should, everything is now back to normal. I have put 600 miles on the jeep since, including some mild but bumpy offroading.
Has anyone else experienced this? I decided to not buy the $40 part until it does again.
 

WranglerMan

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I personally would not worry about it, if the IBS fails and does not see the needed voltage all it does is direct the alternator to throw 14+ volts to the batteries all the time, not necessarily a bad thing.

I turned my IBS off using JSCAN for testing and mine displayed the same as you and I ran this way for almost two months and my batteries in my Genesis system were always at peak charge, the only reason that I know of for the IBS is to reduce load on the charging system so you can get slightly better mpg but during my two month run I never noticed any big increase in MPG.

Also supposedly by not having the batteries fully charging all the time itā€™s supposed to increase battery life but honestly in the scheme of things I donā€™t think it will add years to a battery.

I very rarely even look at voltage anymore but I do weekly charges to top off my batteries and have ESS disabled with my SSS module
 

Attaboy55

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I wanted to add some observations detailing my experience. I have a 2019 Jeep Wrangler. Lately I have not been driving the vehicle due to surgery ( about 1 1/2 weeks). Got in it today and ESS said in center display NOT READY CHARGING. Ok great so I charged both batteries separately, ( the big battery was charges without any cables attached , just terminals , and the small battery was charged using the cables only . Charged AGM at a rate of 3 amps. Buttoned back up , still illuminating the same display. Took it to jeep dealer and the fix was to unplug the IBS, ( intelligent battery sensor) located at battery terminal on main battery. Tech simply unplugged while the vehicle WAS RUNNING and it reset the display and has not come on again. I also wanted to advise , Jeeps have a few items on them that draw power even when the engine is off. Particularly I was leaving my key fob in the vehicle while home and in the garage . Well, the jeep was using it's brain to look for the fob and as such drawing amperage in doing so . I now keep the fob at least 10" from the jeep.
p.s. NEEDED TWO NEW BATTERIES , PUT IN IN UNDER WARRANTY,,,NOW NO PROBLEMS
 

Attaboy55

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I have had the issue of my ESS not working and the dash says "battery charging" for several months.
I never thought much about it until I read about the random faulty IBS.
I am running a genesis offroad dual battery system and got rid of the factory JL battery setup back in '19 when the jeep was new.
I have noticed that my charging voltage is always running around 14.3 (+/- 1v) which seemed odd because the voltage should drop as current demand drops. I have even charged the batteries overnight to make sure they were topped off with no luck.
Anyway, I wanted to get a part number from the IBS and wiggled the wires around, including the senor cable, and now magically it's working.....
My start stop works, my charging voltage changes as it should, everything is now back to normal. I have put 600 miles on the jeep since, including some mild but bumpy offroading.
Has anyone else experienced this? I decided to not buy the $40 part until it does again.
You need new batteries, if you leave key fob near vehicle or don't drive routinely batteries go kaput
 

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Whatā€™s the failure rate of the IBS? Iā€™m going through the ā€œESS not available ā€œ situation. Both batteries are testing good, and Iā€™m up to speed on the info for the batteries and ESS system. Dealership replaced the IBS sensor a few months ago, when it was working intermittentlyā€¦ now itā€™s got the message.

I do however an EcoDiesel, and from what I can tell, everything functions the same as the 3.6
 
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WranglerMan

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Just wanted to give some info on a recent development on my charging system, as a lot f you know I run a Genesis system with dual Full River 750ā€™s and have for almost a full year been seeing what Iā€™m supposed to see on correct smart alternator charging or correct operation of the IBS.

A few days ago as I was doing some routine testing of the ESS system as I do it occasionally just to make sure it works even though I have it disabled using a Smart Stop/Start module and I noticed my EVIC voltage display was reading 14+ volts and at the batteries the voltage was the same and resting voltage on both was 12.6-12.8.ā€¦. this is odd for me as normally with my batteries at this level the alternator output has been lower as the charge is high enough to dictate a lower charge directed by the IBS.

I had both batteries load tested and they passed so my next set of checks was done on the Genesis system and all passed so then I reached out to @Jebiruph and picked his brain on his knowledge of the charging system and IBS and he walked me thru several things to do and check and all passed.

I basically disconnected the IBS and cleaned the connections with contact cleaner and put a lite coat of dielectric grease on it and let it sit overnight and reconnected and both batteries were in the 12.6-12.7 range so I checked all connections and all were tight, ESS works as it should with no error messages, batteries pass load test, JSCAN fast diagnostic and advanced diagnostic checks report back no codes at all but now whenever my JL is running I see a 14.1-14.2 EVIC display and same at the batteries.

Jerry advised that the Genesis system may not work correctly with the IBS but not sure but he said with the design as it is the IBS is mounted to the aux battery and the way it disconnects and connects randomly it may be confusing itself and causing the charge to be off, it has worked fine until recently so who knows with all these modern electronics.

I normally donā€™t look at my voltage anymore and just happened to do it the other day so it may have been going on for awhile, who knows.

The only thing left as a possible issue that I can think of is the IBS has failed/shorted out so the JL can cant see the voltage and assumes itā€™s low so it throws a full charge to the batteries and Iā€™m not sure of that as this is a guess on my part, I equate a failed IBS as the same as unplugging it and I have read some have done this but not here.

I doubt I will replace the IBS as Iā€™m not even sure itā€™s bad as I have no indication of any issues so presently I am charging each battery separately with a NOCO 10 and then will do a final top off of them together and then do some daily voltage checks to see where my resting voltage is.

Im guessing the only downside if the IBS has failed is my alternator will stay at the 14.2 output to the batteries and I will always be 100% charged but this will likely shorten my battery life and by how much who knows.

Big thanks goes out to Jerry @Jebiruph for all his input and time in discussing things with me, his knowledge of this is over the top as he walked me thru several possible issues and told me what to expect.

So for now I will do some checks over the next week on resting voltages and see how things go as the IBS has been reset ( unless it bad ) and maybe or maybe not I will see my dancing EVIC voltage return.
 
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Jebiruph

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Just wanted to give some info on a recent development on my charging system, as a lot f you know I run a Genesis system with dual Full River 750ā€™s and have for almost a full year been seeing what Iā€™m supposed to see on correct smart alternator charging or correct operation of the IBS.

A few days ago as I was doing some routine testing of the ESS system as I do it occasionally just to make sure it works even though I have it disabled using a Smart Stop/Start module and I noticed my EVIC voltage display was reading 14+ volts and at the batteries the voltage was the same and resting voltage on both was 12.6-12.8.ā€¦. this is odd for me as normally with my batteries at this level the alternator output has been lower as the charge is high enough to dictate a lower charge directed by the IBS.

I had both batteries load tested and they passed so my next set of checks was done on the Genesis system and all passed so then I reached out to @Jebiruph and picked his brain on his knowledge of the charging system and IBS and he walked me thru several things to do and check and all passed.

I basically disconnected the IBS and cleaned the connections with contact cleaner and put a lite coat of dielectric grease on it and let it sit overnight and reconnected and both batteries were in the 12.6-12.7 range so I checked all connections and all were tight, ESS works as it should with no error messages, batteries pass load test, JSCAN fast diagnostic and advanced diagnostic checks report back no codes at all but now whenever my JL is running I see a 14.1-14.2 EVIC display and same at the batteries.

Jerry advised that the Genesis system may not work correctly with the IBS but not sure but he said with the design as it is the IBS is mounted to the aux battery and the way it disconnects and connects randomly it may be confusing itself and causing the charge to be off, it has worked fine until recently so who knows with all these modern electronics.

I normally donā€™t look at my voltage anymore and just happened to do it the other day so it may have been going on for awhile, who knows.

The only thing left as a possible issue that I can think of is the IBS has failed/shorted out so the JL can cant see the voltage and assumes itā€™s low so it throws a full charge to the batteries and Iā€™m not sure of that as this is a guess on my part, I equate a failed IBS as the same as unplugging it and I have read some have done this but not here.

I doubt I will replace the IBS as Iā€™m not even sure itā€™s bad as I have no indication of any issues so presently I am charging each battery separately with a NOCO 10 and then will do a final top off of them together and then do some daily voltage checks to see where my resting voltage is.

Im guessing the only downside if the IBS has failed is my alternator will stay at the 14.2 output to the batteries and I will always be 100% charged but this will likely shorten my battery life and by how much who knows.

Big thanks goes out to Jerry @Jebiruph for all his input and time in discussing things with me, his knowledge of this is over the top as he walked me thru several possible issues and told me what to expect.

So for now I will do some checks over the next week on resting voltages and see how things go as the IBS has been reset ( unless it bad ) and maybe or maybe not I will see my dancing EVIC voltage return.
To clarify my discussion with @WranglerMan , I pointed out that the IBS monitors both the voltage at the battery and the current flow into and out of the battery then does an analysis (based on the current flow for a given voltage over time) of the state of charge and state of health of the battery.

With the recommended Genesis wiring, the IBS monitors the voltage at one battery and the current flow of the other battery, so it's analysis might not be correct and might be the cause of the consistently high voltage output of the alternator.
 

WranglerMan

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To clarify my discussion with @WranglerMan , I pointed out that the IBS monitors both the voltage at the battery and the current flow into and out of the battery then does an analysis (based on the current flow for a given voltage over time) of the state of charge and state of health of the battery.

With the recommended Genesis wiring, the IBS monitors the voltage at one battery and the current flow of the other battery, so it's analysis might not be correct and might be the cause of the consistently high voltage output of the alternator.
You Sir are like a JL ESS/IBS Charging Guru šŸ‘šŸ» Thanks for all your research and help, I will let you know on what voltages I get.

 

WranglerMan

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I did some additional testing today to see if I can see why my voltage pretty much stays at 14+ all the time now, like I said batteries have been tested and indicate good.

I first unplugged the IBS while I charged each battery separately with my NOCO 10 then I plugged it back in and did another charge with them connected as one with the charger pos on main pos and charger neg on aux neg and let it go over night and this a.m voltage was still showing 14+ running and batteries not running showed 12.7-12.8.

Next step was with it running I unplugged the IBS and it immediately flagged ESS not ready/ Service stop start system on the EVIC and plugging it back it did not clear the EVIC message but it did clear on a restart, I then brought up JSCAN and did a quick and advance diagnostic and two codes were stored associated with the IBS so I assume this was because I unplugged it while the Jeep was running so I cleared the codes and shut all down and did a full reboot of all the ECUS and then went thru to see if there were any codes and the only ones present were from the ECUS reboot so I cleared those and shut all down and then the ECU power down and then went back in and checked for any codes and nothing.

Final test was took it for a drive and all appears normal and ESS functioned perfectly of several Start/Stop events and running voltage displayed still shows 14+ so as far the smart charging doing what its supposed to do it seems itā€™s not and a constant 14+ volts is being kicked out to the dual batteries.

I will do some daily resting voltage checks over the next week to see if I have any severe drop in voltage on either battery but so far all seems good.

Thanks to @Jebiruph again for his continued support in helping me do some diagnostic testing but I am about done and have not come up with an answer on why I went from correct smart charging to a constant output of 14+ volts but it was only recently that I noticed the voltage output increase and it may have been there for awhile and it may be due to the setup I run but who knows.
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