3.6L ESS Dual Battery Consolidated Information

BRuby

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2019
Messages
249
Reaction score
253
Location
Backcountry Mtns
Vehicle(s)
JLUR Benz Porsche Subie +
That genesis battery kit doesn't seem like a horrible deal at $600. The batteries alone are probably $400 hahaha.
Hey the kit alone is $529 + batteries at $286 x2 + taxes etc. So getting way up there. With no more FCA warranty and chance for FCA to deny warranty on anything related. FCA themselves should have done something like this - but they cheaped out. So we all have to suffer with the puny weak idiotic hidden aux battery. But it is what it is. PITA for sure separately charging.

http://www.genesisoffroad.com/2018-2020-Jeep-Wrangler-JL-Dual-Battery-Kit_p_57.html

After desulphating my aux seems much better and ESS kicks in right away. Plus my whole charging system seems to be working like it was designed.





Advertisement

 

Kyanche

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2019
Messages
844
Reaction score
689
Location
California
Vehicle(s)
2020 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
Hey the kit alone is $529 + batteries at $286 x2 + taxes etc.
Oh shot! I knew it was too good to be true! I didn't read the thing and thought $529 included the batteries lol.

Edit: You can get group 25 AGMs for $200-ish though. I also wonder if a system where you use something else for the 12v accessories makes more sense?
 

WhatExit?

Well-Known Member
First Name
Dan
Joined
Aug 12, 2018
Messages
169
Reaction score
132
Location
The 48th State
Vehicle(s)
2020 JT Rubicon Launch Edition | 2017 Raptor SCrew
I would get the Genesis kit in a nano second if it weren't for my lifetime warranty, don't want to give the dealer a reason to deny future warranty work on all things electrical.
I understand your concern but with that approach you're likely not going to be modifying anything on your Jeep. You have rights and protection under the law. I know dealerships can be dicks but still, they have to show how your dual battery kit caused an electrical issue (not at all likely to happen).
 

4xFUN

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mike
Joined
Dec 9, 2019
Messages
777
Reaction score
993
Location
Scottsdale AZ
Vehicle(s)
2020 2-door Rubi. 2019 Ram Longhorn 4x4
Oh shot! I knew it was too good to be true! I didn't read the thing and thought $529 included the batteries lol.

Edit: You can get group 25 AGMs for $200-ish though. I also wonder if a system where you use something else for the 12v accessories makes more sense?

I am seriously looking at the Genesis dual battery conversion...The Odyssey batteries they recommend, while very good, weigh in at 50 pounds each. Optima also makes great batteries and they have some in that size class that weigh about 31 pounds each. This will be an expensive 'fix' for peace-of-mind but I also keep telling myself that if you really want a winch on a JL, a conventional dual battery system should be factored in as part of the cost...
 

Bob Burd

Well-Known Member
First Name
Bob
Joined
Apr 23, 2019
Messages
82
Reaction score
174
Location
San Jose, CA
Website
www.snwburd.com
Vehicle(s)
2018 JLUR
A note about battery testing:

A few months ago I had to call AAA to get a jump while on a roadtrip. I had the XM radio and inside lights on for about 3hrs before I slept in the back that night, so didn't think much of it. I was away from home this past month and when I came back the jeep wouldn't start again. Got a battery load tester which showed the system ok after I had a battery charger on it overnight. So I next started looking for suspicious current flows. This lead me to disconnect the negative terminals and find that I was drawing amps (not mAs) between the two batteries. So I did the load test on the batteries separately and found that the aux battery was fine but the main battery was bad. Lesson: load test them separately because the good one can mask a bad battery.

I decided to replace both batteries even though the aux one tested OK, figuring it could go anytime too and why not have them both in sync. This video was very helpful in figuring out how to get to the aux battery under the fuse box. It's for installing a dual-battery replacement (not a bad idea, but pricey), so not all of the procedures were necessary. For example, there's no reason to mess with the air filter and components. I also found a couple of shortcuts - it wasn't necessary to remove any of the connections on the inboard side of the fuse box. I just lifted it up at 90 degrees and propped it out of the way. It also wasn't necessary to remove any of the ground connections to the chassis - I was able to slide out the aux battery cover under these wires.
 
Last edited:

FiveBoro

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2020
Messages
87
Reaction score
135
Location
Los Angeles
Vehicle(s)
18 JLR
A note about battery testing:

A few months ago I had to call AAA to get a jump while on a roadtrip. I had the XM radio and inside lights on for about 3hrs before I slept in the back that night, so didn't think much of it. I was away from home this past month and when I came back the jeep wouldn't start again. Got a battery load tester which showed the system ok after I had a battery charger on it overnight. So I next started looking for suspicious current flows. This lead me to disconnect the negative terminals and find that I was drawing amps (not mAs) between the two batteries. So I did the load test on the batteries separately and found that the aux battery was fine but the main battery was bad. Lesson: load test them separately because the good one can mask a bad battery.

I decided to replace both batteries even though the aux one tested OK, figuring it could go anytime too and why not have them both in sync. This video was very helpful in figuring out how to get to the aux battery under the fuse box. It's for installing a dual-battery replacement (not a bad idea, but pricey), so not all of the procedures were necessary. For example, there's no reason to mess with the air filter and components. I also found a couple of shortcuts - it wasn't necessary to remove any of the connections on the inboard side of the fuse box. I just lifted it up at 90 degrees and propped it out of the way. It also wasn't necessary to remove any of the ground connections to the chassis - I was able to slide out the aux battery cover under these wires.




Can the aux battery be removed from under the fender well? Does anyone have access to the factory shop guide?
 

Bob Burd

Well-Known Member
First Name
Bob
Joined
Apr 23, 2019
Messages
82
Reaction score
174
Location
San Jose, CA
Website
www.snwburd.com
Vehicle(s)
2018 JLUR
Can the aux battery be removed from under the fender well? Does anyone have access to the factory shop guide?
You cannot. The aux battery sits in a protective plastic well and can only be removed from above - after removing the main battery and moving the fuse box.
 

GrumpyBadger

Well-Known Member
First Name
Steve
Joined
Apr 2, 2020
Messages
103
Reaction score
122
Location
Wisconsin
Vehicle(s)
2020 Ocean Blue Wrangler Unlimited Willys
I am an engineer, and all I can say is the FCA engineer(s) who approved the design for auxillary battery location should be fired.
Yeah... I am an engineer too (mostly safety / failure & reliability analyses, and sometimes contributing design input, etc.), and can only conclude that the people that perpetrated this confusticated abortion were actually competitor agents who intentionally and maliciously F'd up FCA's coolest rig. How did this mess ever get out of a conceptual design review (!!!???), let alone 30%, 60%, and 90% and be approved for production? Firing them (and their entire management chain who approved) may be too light a consequence for the horrors with which they have tortured our rigs.

Thank you HUGE, @Jebiruph for your patience and dedication to helping your JL siblings. Should we ever meet, unlimited drinks of your choice are on me. (really... I mean that)

Already made a file of PDFs and pictures to carry in my phone and computer against the eventuality that I need to jump my poor baby that has this lurking built-in nightmare.

And as soon as I put a couple thou klicks on it to hopefully shake down any new-build issues under warranty, I am swapping to some incarnation / variation of the Genesis dual platform.

Cheers, all... and happy trails! :beer::beer::beer::flag:
 

wrangster

Well-Known Member
First Name
Ray
Joined
Dec 8, 2018
Messages
261
Reaction score
233
Location
Texas
Vehicle(s)
Sold the JLUS, New Ford Ranger 4X4 Lariat
Occupation
Retired and happy!
Vehicle Showcase
2
I would just like to go back to a single battery if possible.
 

Rhinebeck01

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 9, 2018
Messages
6,212
Reaction score
7,454
Location
.
Vehicle(s)
2018 2dr. Rubi
If you use a fused jumper (40 amp) between N1 and N2 and along with that, you disconnect the Aux. battery negative cable, you can run with just the JL's Main battery. You will experience no issues doing so with the 2018 Rubi with 3.6. You won't even know the Aux is not in the picture so to speak.

I have been running as above for a bit over a year now and have chalked up 22,000 miles with the configuration.

I trickle charge the Aux battery every two weeks, just to maintain it so to speak.

By the way, ESS still works when you run as mentioned. I do however, use a SmartStopStart unit to deal with ESS.
 

Jeeperob

Well-Known Member
First Name
Rob
Joined
May 20, 2020
Messages
298
Reaction score
184
Location
Canada
Vehicle(s)
2017 GT350R || 2021 Hellayella Rubicon JLU
Hey all, forgive me if this was pasted somewhere in the 7 pages. Thanks for all this info, it is awesome and really explains what I "have" to purchase in 2021 since I have ordered the V6 auto.

Reading all this kinda has me concerned that there's so much more going on here. The Pentastar V6 seems to be a very solid engine and it's what I've wanted from the start and if it was a 2020 model I wouldn't have even ordered the eTorque option as I don't see it as that great a savings to me.

Anyway, now that I must get it with the V6 and there's no way to get the V6/auto for 2021 without the eTorque, is this system more of a headache than it's worth? I see so many threads about this AUX battery so I don't know what to conclude. Has this made the solid V6 engine much more unreliable or the opposite? As reading this thread sounds like we have the option of a kinda "backup" battery scenario...


Rob
 
OP
Jebiruph

Jebiruph

Well-Known Member
First Name
Jerry
Joined
Feb 18, 2018
Messages
1,311
Reaction score
1,581
Location
Iowa
Vehicle(s)
2018 JLU, 2019 KL, 2020 JT
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #104
Hey all, forgive me if this was pasted somewhere in the 7 pages. Thanks for all this info, it is awesome and really explains what I "have" to purchase in 2021 since I have ordered the V6 auto.

Reading all this kinda has me concerned that there's so much more going on here. The Pentastar V6 seems to be a very solid engine and it's what I've wanted from the start and if it was a 2020 model I wouldn't have even ordered the eTorque option as I don't see it as that great a savings to me.

Anyway, now that I must get it with the V6 and there's no way to get the V6/auto for 2021 without the eTorque, is this system more of a headache than it's worth? I see so many threads about this AUX battery so I don't know what to conclude. Has this made the solid V6 engine much more unreliable or the opposite? As reading this thread sounds like we have the option of a kinda "backup" battery scenario...


Rob
This thread does not apply to the eTorqe system, only the ESS system. The eTorque system is a 48v hybrid system. ESS is the 12v main and aux battery system.
 

Jeeperob

Well-Known Member
First Name
Rob
Joined
May 20, 2020
Messages
298
Reaction score
184
Location
Canada
Vehicle(s)
2017 GT350R || 2021 Hellayella Rubicon JLU
This thread does not apply to the eTorqe system, only the ESS system. The eTorque system is a 48v hybrid system. ESS is the 12v main and aux battery system.
....whoa, wait, are you saying that eTorque then has 3 batteries? Now I'm confused. lol
 

Advertisement




Tri-City Jeep
 



Advertisement
Top