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3.6L ESS Dual Battery Consolidated Information

WranglerMan

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So this separate charge thing should be done even using a trickle charger ?
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So this separate charge thing should be done even using a trickle charger ?
The issue is when a smart charger bases the charging voltage on it's analysis of the battery. A battery analysis of two dissimilar batteries in parallel may result in over charging and damaging one or both of the batteries. I don't think it's a problem with a trickle charger because the maximum output of a trickle charger should not be enough to damage a battery. With that being said, one bad battery could still cause a smart trickle charger to apply constant maximum output to both batteries, as opposed to intermittent charging as needed.

As @BRuby pointed out "The general consensus is that best practice is to smart charge each battery separately - so each can be fully charged and de-sulphated as required - without one being over or under charged." I will be doing occasional separate charging and de-sulfating to help maintain the health of the batteries.
 

WranglerMan

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The issue is when a smart charger bases the charging voltage on it's analysis of the battery. A battery analysis of two dissimilar batteries in parallel may result in over charging and damaging one or both of the batteries. I don't think it's a problem with a trickle charger because the maximum output of a trickle charger should not be enough to damage a battery. With that being said, one bad battery could still cause a smart trickle charger to apply constant maximum output to both batteries, as opposed to intermittent charging as needed.

As @BRuby pointed out "The general consensus is that best practice is to smart charge each battery separately - so each can be fully charged and de-sulphated as required - without one being over or under charged." I will be doing occasional separate charging and de-sulfating to help maintain the health of the batteries.
I’m going to guess here and say just disconnect the ESS negative from the main an then put the positive from the trickle charger on the main and the negative on the ESS disconnected cable to get the ESS battery then put the negative on the main after the ESS is up to a full charge.

I have been using a Deltran monthly and usually trickle both at the same time and have not seen any ill affects but then my JL stays parked a lot like in sometimes a few days and sometimes close to a week so after it’s been parked a lot the running voltage stays up around 13.5-14 but if taken on a trip it does manage to get down to the lower 13’s and no error messages and ESS shows ready when I choose to engage it which is never :)
 

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Great job, thank you!
 

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Thanks for the information and the links. I questioned why some have been charging their batteries separately and now it makes sense. I just got a NOCO G7200 and will be doing the separate battery charging soon. From research years ago I knew it was not good to connect dissimilar batteries in parallel with no battery management and I was surprised to see it in the JL.
Yep 7200 is good. We have and use 3 constantly.
 

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BRuby

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I’m going to guess here and say just disconnect the ESS negative from the main an then put the positive from the trickle charger on the main and the negative on the ESS disconnected cable to get the ESS battery then put the negative on the main after the ESS is up to a full charge.
Yep. PITA imho but it is what it is with this specific JL battery system. Normally have just used the connect rings on my other batteries, but will now have to fully disconnect and use the clamps on each. Not at all convenient as the whole purpose is to use the snap-in quick connects with the NOCO or CTEK. But see no other way to properly maintain and smart charge each battery separately.

One dealer actually told me to just let the battery die, then jump it. So after hearing that, came to the quick conclusion that more research was needed to keep these batteries lasting longer and in good operating condition. Unfortunately all FCA says in the owner’s manual is to simply disconnect while in storage. So guess that they just want you to buy more batteries once your warranty expires.
 

WranglerMan

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Yep. PITA imho but it is what it is with this specific JL battery system. Normally have just used the connect rings on my other batteries, but will now have to fully disconnect and use the clamps on each. Not at all convenient as the whole purpose is to use the snap-in quick connects with the NOCO or CTEK. But see no other way to properly maintain and smart charge each battery separately.

One dealer actually told me to just let the battery die, then jump it. So after hearing that, came to the quick conclusion that more research was needed to keep these batteries lasting longer and in good operating condition. Unfortunately all FCA says in the owner’s manual is to simply disconnect while in storage. So guess that they just want you to buy more batteries once your warranty expires.
My JL does not stay parked for weeks as it’s a daily driver but several times a month it’s parked for several days at a time and on my long change from work where it’s parked for several days at a time that’s when I put the tender on it and have never charged them separately and even though it’s only one nut to pull the ESS negative it’s still going to be a PITA as one will have to use the alligator clamps on the ESS util charged then on the main so a persons will either have to have two battery tenders or do them separately, like I said it’s going to be a pain

Currently I use the quick connect and it literally only takes a minute on two and it’s connected, I may charge separately on my next long charge and then do it once a quarter as doing monthly and having to separate the two will be a small hassle
 
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I’m going to be storing my Jeep for a few months. Does anyone have pictures of what it looks like to have 2 chargers charged to 2 batteries. Does anything need to be disconnected? If so can you post a picture of that too? I truly appreciate the help.
 

WranglerMan

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I don’t have two trickle chargers but do you one and currently I have the ESS negative disconnected and I am using the tender clamp cables connected to the main -/+ terminals, tomorrow I will move the clamp to the ESS cable I disconnected and leave the positive one connected to the main and this should in theory work so if using two the only way I can think of is to completely disconnect the -/+ connectors from the main battery and attach one charger to the main battery posts and the other charger to the connectors you disconnected to take care of the ESS battery
 

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Storing for a few months you should apparently run your AC according to the owner’s manual. Plus maybe pump up your tires extra as well. Also would add a fuel stabilizer and conditioner. For batteries would take the starting right out and maintain on its own. While charging the aux in the car with the pos and neg leads. Would use a smart charger for both.

Right now my aux is getting a full charge and then a desulphate. Then will do my starting battery tomorrow. When your batteries are topped up they will cycle to green very quickly. Minutes. If it takes hours then your battery is quite depleted.

We have a Benz and a Porsche and both stay on smart chargers for months at a time all the while the batteries stay amazingly fresh. You can also contact your dealer as well for further input.
 

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UtahDirt

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i have had on my Mercedes ML the aux battery fail twice. When that happens you can’t shift the gear selector out of park.
Is it possible to put a waterproof switch or group of switches under the hood to allow jump starting on the side of the road in all failure modes.. Also a configuration that would allow charging without removing cables/wires? Thanks!
 

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I've notice my charging voltage sitting around 14.6 volts most of the time lately on my 2019 JL Sahara with 11/18 build date. if I drive all day it'll drop down to maybe 13.7ish but not lower. and the next day, it's right back at 14.6. last summer, the charging voltage would sit at 12.6ish volts after 4 or 5 hours of driving, so I'm guessing the change in behavior is reflective of battery degradation.

being a proactive kind of guy, I purchased new main and auxillary batteries to install. the main battery was easy to remove, and I was careful to tape off the auxillary battery leads while working to avoid shorting anything out. then I tried to get the PDC out so I could dig down and replace the auxillary battery. clearly I didn't do my homework before hand because 2 hours later I gave up. I finally found the video below with directions.

I am an engineer, and all I can say is the FCA engineer(s) who approved the design for auxillary battery location should be fired.

auxillary battery removal starting at 3:29:
 

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That genesis battery kit doesn't seem like a horrible deal at $600. The batteries alone are probably $400 hahaha.
 

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That genesis battery kit doesn't seem like a horrible deal at $600. The batteries alone are probably $400 hahaha.
I would get the Genesis kit in a nano second if it weren't for my lifetime warranty, don't want to give the dealer a reason to deny future warranty work on all things electrical.
 

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That genesis battery kit doesn't seem like a horrible deal at $600. The batteries alone are probably $400 hahaha.
Hey the kit alone is $529 + batteries at $286 x2 + taxes etc. So getting way up there. With no more FCA warranty and chance for FCA to deny warranty on anything related. FCA themselves should have done something like this - but they cheaped out. So we all have to suffer with the puny weak idiotic hidden aux battery. But it is what it is. PITA for sure separately charging.

http://www.genesisoffroad.com/2018-2020-Jeep-Wrangler-JL-Dual-Battery-Kit_p_57.html

After desulphating my aux seems much better and ESS kicks in right away. Plus my whole charging system seems to be working like it was designed.
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