3.6L ESS Battery Diagram

[Jeep 5150 2112]

Same as you would charge/jump any other vehicle with a low battery(s); the two batteries are always in parallel except when the PCR isolates them (which is not the case when the Jeep will not start.) This method will charge both batteries at the same time, even though they are different size and capacity.

So I'm just putting the clamps from the charger directly on the clamps of the main battery? Doing this will not harm my electrical system? Thanks

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[mazeppa]

So I'm just putting the clamps from the charger directly on the clamps of the main battery? Doing this will not harm my electrical system? Thanks

See in your owner's manual:
IN CASE OF EMERGENCY
JUMP STARTING

Just like any other vehicle, except it may take longer because of two discharged batteries. Also, for safety you may want to put the negative lead on a good ground away from the batteries on the vehicle with the discharged batteries.

 

[allieboy]

After some additional work with the batteries, I realized there is a better way to isolate the batteries to check the individual voltages. Instead of removing the main battery positive terminal and risking shorting it out, the same thing can be accomplished by removing the aux battery ground cable from the main battery negative terminal. Doing it this way eliminates the risk of shorting anything out.

Here's the aux battery voltage - positive terminal to aux battery ground.

Here's the main battery voltage

Can you then jump start the aux without removing pos cable?

 

[Jebiruph]

Can you then jump start the aux without removing pos cable?

Yes, and upon further review it's probably better to remove the main battery ground cable. My suggestion in another thread to remove the positive cable was due to thinking the ground cable setup was more complicated, but after checking I see all you have to do is remove one nut to detach both ground cables from IBS. Reconnecting while running still gets the warning of the possibility of sparks igniting discharged battery fumes.

 

[allieboy]

Yes, and upon further review it's probably better to remove the main battery ground cable. My suggestion in another thread to remove the positive cable was due to thinking the ground cable setup was more complicated, but after checking I see all you have to do is remove one nut to detach both ground cables from IBS. Reconnecting while running still gets the warning of the possibility of sparks igniting discharged battery fumes.

So after removing nut at green arrow....BOTH come off?

 

[Jebiruph]

So after removing nut at green arrow....BOTH come off?

Yes

 

[allieboy]

Yes

Again, thanks for putting up with all the questions!

 

[Jebiruph]

Again, thanks for putting up with all the questions!

No problem, I'm glad you persisted because this is a better way to do it.

 

[euells]

Hopefully this is not too off topic but I have a couple of questions....
I want to hook up a power distribution block under the dash - this will provide power to a powered sub, a trailer hitch electrical connection, and some additional lighting. I bought an insulated block that allows a 4 Gauge input from the battery, and 4 8-10 gauge connections out. I have penetrated the firewall and have the block installed, but after seeing this diagram I am wondering if I should tap the N1 terminal so that the sub, hitch electrical connections and lights stay alive during an ESS event. Is this a valid approach or will everything stay up if I make the connection to the main battery terminal? I'm no EE so sorry for the questions in advance....

 

[Jebiruph]

Hopefully this is not too off topic but I have a couple of questions....
I want to hook up a power distribution block under the dash - this will provide power to a powered sub, a trailer hitch electrical connection, and some additional lighting. I bought an insulated block that allows a 4 Gauge input from the battery, and 4 8-10 gauge connections out. I have penetrated the firewall and have the block installed, but after seeing this diagram I am wondering if I should tap the N1 terminal so that the sub, hitch electrical connections and lights stay alive during an ESS event. Is this a valid approach or will everything stay up if I make the connection to the main battery terminal? I'm no EE so sorry for the questions in advance....

Both batteries are live during an ESS event, they are just disconnected from each other. It just depends on which battery you want to drain. I need to do the same thing for the same reasons and I will be connecting to the main battery.

 

[euells]

Both batteries are live during an ESS event, they are just disconnected from each other. It just depends on which battery you want to drain. I need to do the same thing for the same reasons and I will be connecting to the main battery.

Thanks Jebiruph! I'll make the connection tomorrow and post some pics.

 

[usmcss]

I just had my Aux. Battery Replace 5 days ago. I was getting ESS won’t work battery charging error. After the aux. battery was replaced I’m still getting that warning 5 days later.

Any idea what might be the problem? Thanks!

 

[Jebiruph]

I just had my Aux. Battery Replace 5 days ago. I was getting ESS won’t work battery charging error. After the aux. battery was replaced I’m still getting that warning 5 days later.

Any idea what might be the problem? Thanks!

I would let the dealer know you're still having problems.

 

[usmcss]

I would let the dealer know you're still having problems.

I did, I have an appointment for Monday. Was just hoping to have something to tell them when I go in.

Thanks!

 

[Jebiruph]

I did, I have an appointment for Monday. Was just hoping to have something to tell them when I go in.

Thanks!

My dealer really pushes back if I try to tell them anything. If you have a battery charger, I would get the batteries charged up and see if that helps. Using the Aux battery bypass jumper to temporarily remove the Aux battery from the system is also a good trouble shooting tool.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/3-6l-ess-aux-battery-bypass.17293/