3.6L ESS Aux Battery Bypass

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Jebiruph

Jebiruph

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My question of the PCR disconnection from N3 and removal of the PCR from my vehicle was more or less answered by you with your statement; as long as N1 is powered it will crank and not think the ESS battery is dead.

What I meant by "lockdown" is the inability of the vehicle to crank or start because it sees no power at N1. This would force me to have my vehicle towed to a dealer where they would have to do a reflash.

My reasoning of not wanting to jump N1 to N2 has nothing to do with the 40 amp fuse not being sufficient to handle the current load; there is nothing wrong with going this route. I like to keep things as simple and tidy as possible with the removal of unused components, ESS aux battery, PCR, when mods are accomplished. I just believe the most direct approach with the least amount of complication, is connecting the main battery to N1 & N2 as long as there are no cranking problems and dashboard code errors appearing from using this method.

Another step in this procedure we haven't talked about, I assume, the IBS would have to be unplugged as well? Thanks again for all your help and knowledge.
Ultimately you own any changes you make to your vehicle and you don't seem very sure of what to do. Some of what gets posted here confuses me. For now I would recommend this thread as I think it will help you accomplish what you want with the least amount of changes or risk. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/ess-dual-battery-management.60034/
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Jebiruph

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Added this update to post #1. I was concerned that people would only read the first post only and not be aware of this updated information.

6/26/2021 Update - Many have reported that the 30A fused jumper shown in this picture has not been adequate for their JL. Use the highest capacity fused jumper you can find and make sure the fuse is not rated too high for the wire, otherwise the wire will melt before the fuse blows.
 
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Instead of the fused jumper could a circuit breaker like this be used? It's a 50amp ,12-48 VDC breaker, I use them at work for wiring in hoists to our work trucks. You then can use a heavy gauge wire and lugs.
 

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Instead of the fused jumper could a circuit breaker like this be used? It's a 50amp ,12-48 VDC breaker, I use them at work for wiring in hoists to our work trucks. You then can use a heavy gauge wire and lugs.
I used something very similar. No issues
 

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Added this update to post #1. I was concerned that people would only read the first post only and not be aware of this updated information.

6/26/2021 Update - Many have reported that the 30A fused jumper shown in this picture has not been adequate for their JL. Use the highest capacity fused jumper you can find and make sure the fuse is not rated too high for the wire, otherwise the wire will melt before the fuse blows.

Would this 100 AMP fuse be overkill to use as a bypass. ?

https://www.amazon.ca/Inline-100amp...45191&pd_rd_wg=rZAmF&pd_rd_i=B08227DGCN&psc=1

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Jebiruph

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I'm pretty sure those lugs won't fit on the N terminals. Post #488 is a better idea. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/3-6l-ess-aux-battery-bypass.17293/post-1499871
Another benefit of this solution is that if the N3 fuse gets blown (which is not uncommon). you can move the jumper from N3 to N4 (as long as nothing is attached to N4) until the fuse array gets replaced.
 

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Well, like clockwork my 7/18 build JLR has been getting the ol "Aux switches unavailable battery charging” message so, got the handy jumper out & taped off the lil battery connector
Jeep starts up, still has the message. :(
Will test the Main & see how much time she has left :crying:

0B4BDF2E-DB6B-40E2-80FA-FDD7625873AA.jpeg
 
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brewtus98

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Well, like clockwork my 7/18 build JLR has been getting the ol "Aux switches unavailable battery charging” message so, got the handy jumper out & taped off the lil battery connector
Jeep starts up, still has the message. :(
Will test the Main & see how much time she has left :crying:

0B4BDF2E-DB6B-40E2-80FA-FDD7625873AA.jpeg
Mine threw same message when I disconnected the Aux to test out the ability to start with Main only (TSB/software update). I had to disconnect both batteries for 10-15 minutes, reconnected and code was gone.
 

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Mine threw same message when I disconnected the Aux to test out the ability to start with Main only (TSB/software update). I had to disconnect both batteries for 10-15 minutes, reconnected and code was gone.
Alright. Well, after disconnecting the Main & waiting a while, I go to reconnect Positive then Negative, and sparks are popping on negative touching. Ever get that? Not sure what to do here. Disconnected Positive again, and letting it sit for now.
The aux jumper is still on, and its negative is still isolated & taped off
@Rhinebeck01
 
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Jebiruph

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Alright. Well, after disconnecting the Main & waiting a while, I go to reconnect Positive then Negative, and sparks are popping on negative touching. Ever get that? Not sure what to do here. Disconnected Positive again, and letting it sit for now.
The aux jumper is still on, and its negative is still isolated & taped off
@Rhinebeck01
I get it every time. Very disconcerting, but normal.
 

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I get it every time. Very disconcerting, but normal.
Okay, I suppressed the caveman SPOOKY SPARK BAD feeling and went ahead and tightened it up anyway. Jeep started with maybe the slightest lag. The Aux switches/charging message is gone. UConnect is all screwy, no backup camera etc. Assume it will right itself over time.
Battery voltage when driving is 14.2
Think we are good. Tyvm for the help! :fist bump:
 

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If battery voltage is 14 or higher while driving longer than 30 min, then your battery is low or dying. a good battery should start at 14, drop to mid 13's, then even to low 13's. This is the adaptive charging system. the higher the voltage, the more it's trying to charge your battery. The longer that the voltage stays high, the worse off your battery is.
 
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Jebiruph

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If battery voltage is 14 or higher while driving longer than 30 min, then your battery is low or dying. a good battery should start at 14, drop to mid 13's, then even to low 13's. This is the adaptive charging system. the higher the voltage, the more it's trying to charge your battery. The longer that the voltage stays high, the worse off your battery is.
This is generally true, but it's not necessarily a problem. It can be due to your driving habits. I ran 14+ volts for three years before my main battery needed replaced.
 

GRAK

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Hey uh, while Aux battery is bypassed like this, battery tender still clamps onto Main battery positive & negative, yeah? Same with battery pack jump-starter I assume
 
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