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3.6 or 2.0

3.6 or 2.0?


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Remorseless

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Yes that is what it does, quick rattle a split second after start-up then goes away. How do I fix that?
Try this: hold foot on gas + brake and press start button. Engine will turn over but not start, and as long as you keep both pedals pushed down, it'll run the starter for 10 seconds. This will prime oil pressure, and if it's the tensioner, may pump it up so it won't rattle or will reduce the rattle when you start it. If it's not the tensioner you'll still have the rattle when you start it normally.
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ASSFROW

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Try this: hold foot on gas + brake and press start button. Engine will turn over but not start, and as long as you keep both pedals pushed down, it'll run the starter for 10 seconds. This will prime oil pressure, and if it's the tensioner, may pump it up so it won't rattle or will reduce the rattle when you start it. If it's not the tensioner you'll still have the rattle when you start it normally.
Jeep Wrangler JL 3.6 or 2.0 at1ja8
 

yokramer

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Yes that is what it does, quick rattle a split second after start-up then goes away. How do I fix that?
If its the wastegate actuator it just kinda is what it is. You can replace the assembly, try to tighten it up a little but best bet is just live with it.
 

yokramer

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You know it's a good day when you've baited Mr. Westfall into a meme war!!!!
You have to humor the ones that lost their sense of joy along the way occasionally.
 

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Roky

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The Ram didn’t get the PUG engine until 2019. Your 2018 Ram has the “original” design Pentastar without VVL and EGR. That engine made north of 300 HP in Ram and Challenger/Charger platforms. That is also why oil capacity is different.

The PUG engine in the 19 and up Ram added VVL high lift and EGR, which are mostly for emissions reasons. It retains the higher HP numbers versus our Jeeps due to slight variations in tuning, and by slight, it is extremely slight, but in my testing, the biggest difference is the Ram has way better under hood temperature management. Things get hot on the JL and JT under the hood, which causes timing to get pulled far more aggressively than the Ram. The Ram you can stand between the intake box and the engine. The Jeeps the intake box and intake itself are bumped right up close to the radiator and heat soak a lot easier.

Hope this helps.
Thanks man, makes sense……
 

croppz

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Yes that is what it does, quick rattle a split second after start-up then goes away. How do I fix that?
You don’t. You just ride it out. I looked into adding a nylon washer or something to take up some of the slack but everyone says it just comes back after a while.
 

2nd 392

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They revised stuff further in like '15 didn't they? Pretty sure they revised the heads or something in '15 or thereabouts, remember there being a difference in how the heads interfaced with the exhaust manifold I think.
There was further evolution and upgrades but 09 is the has been called the only “major” upgrade one.
 

c20040215

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One of its kind offroad crawling machine and we here talking about which engine is better to drive on the road. No wonder its still selling like hot cakes after 8 model years.

I cant tell you which one is better, nor do I care that much, cause I don't think there is much.. All I know is when I crawl with my Wrangler, I only use maybe 1/10 of the throttle input and it is, often times, too much. I need more traction, not horse power or torque.

After every challenging obstacle, we often talk about one made it/didnt make was because suspension, tires, wheelbase, clearance, etc.. Never have I heard... oh he made it because his Jeep has 2.0 Turbo/he didnt make it and had to pull a line because his Jeep has 3.6...
 

grimmjeeper

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You know, all of this octane and engine noise nonsense would go away if you just run the right oil...

Jeep Wrangler JL 3.6 or 2.0 1000014381
 

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Remorseless

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One of its kind offroad crawling machine and we here talking about which engine is better to drive on the road. No wonder its still selling like hot cakes after 8 model years.

I cant tell you which one is better, nor do I care that much, cause I don't think there is much.. All I know is when I crawl with my Wrangler, I only use maybe 1/10 of the throttle input and it is, often times, too much. I need more traction, not horse power or torque.

After every challenging obstacle, we often talk about one made it/didnt make was because suspension, tires, wheelbase, clearance, etc.. Never have I heard... oh he made it because his Jeep has 2.0 Turbo/he didnt make it and had to pull a line because his Jeep has 3.6...
I find 2.0/3.6 about the same off road, albeit the 3.6 prefers revs more sometimes.

Southeast wheeling though, wheel speed is often quite helpful, so I can't say I'm always 10% throttle or thereabouts. But in 4L, it's more about being in the right gear than having the right engine, since between 2k and 3k RPM you've generally got enough torque - especially after t-case and axle and trans multiplication - to break traction anyway, regardless of engine.
 

Remorseless

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Mud bogging? EWWWWWW
Nope, just the trail itself is clay more often than not. It gets wet, you've got a mix between snot and ice. And once wet our rocks have zip for traction too. Or sometimes if they're too dry and covered in clay dust. Shit's like talcum powder fucked moondust and made a hate child.
 

yokramer

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Nope, just the trail itself is clay more often than not. It gets wet, you've got a mix between snot and ice. And once wet our rocks have zip for traction too. Or sometimes if they're too dry and covered in clay dust. Shit's like talcum powder fucked moondust and made a hate child.
I do NOT miss the traction issues from back east at all lol. Even with the snow and wet dirt (cant really call it mud like the SE) this past weekend I never felt a tire slip once like back in NC.
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