3.6 Bad Cam and Lifters - Possibly something more

[andy29847]

Joining on here to share my experience. I bought a 2020 JLUR in OCT 2022 with 35K miles. It looked and ran great. 3 days after I bought it, the stop/start would work (battery charging). I returned it to the dealer, they tested the batteries and said they were good. It worked after the visit for one day. I took it back. this time I also complained about some noise I was hearing that I thought was probably an exhaust leak. They changed out 2 rocker arms and 2 lifters. The stop/start worked for 2 days this time. For the 3rd visit, they replaced the main battery and worked on the cam phasers. I thought the cam phaser stuff was probably BS to bill a little more time. My Jeep sounded and ran like I expected. A couple of months later, there was a new clicking. This noise was different and seemed to start around 2800 rpm. Back to the dealer. This time I got a new cam, rocvker arms, and lifters, all in the same place as the previous work. I am a dedicated Jeep owner. I'm hoping this part of my Jeep experience is over. So far, my warranty has covered everything.

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[Spank]

Fair enough, what do you mean by “junk”? Play in the roller bearing?

Yup. And this engine has been steadily getting noisier over time, so not surprised. I want to stay it started around 60k, but was real faint. 75k-80ish you could only hear it with the hood open. After that you could hear it through the hood.

 

[Spank]

After my retarded dealership managed to screw up the parts order twice and make what should've been a two-day job a two-week one, the repairs are finally done. The rocker arm noise, low RPM pinging, and wheel and cabin vibration are all gone. She's running nice and smooth.

 

[Beungood]

Only way to truly fix it is to swap in an LS!

 

[jg1986]

Same type of issues for me? A couple months ago I had overheating issues/ misfires, had to get head gasket replacement blown head gasket. Jeep Recently died and had to get a cam replaced, rockers replaced. They said a cam slipped. Dealership worked on it this time, just sharing my experience. 86k miles, I should not have had to deal with this, two major problems in 4 months! $4,400 for the repairs, after $3,400 a couple months ago. Luckily I had MBI insurance for the most recent repair. They had to replace a head too. I hope I can get another 86k miles out of the vehicle FIngers crossed I am good to go now, just got Jeep back yesterday.

 

[sf5211]

Hi folks, I'd like to jump in here and say at 49,000 I'm having both heads changed. It started with pinging and a knocking noise inside the engine. Then the engine light came on. Put it in the dealership figuring they'd say it's normal. To Jeep's credit when I called the next day the secretary said "we have your engine apart and am changing the heads. I change the oil religiously every 5k with Penzoil fully synthetic. My brother told me about AMSOIL for future use. Do you guys have an opinion on it? Thanks in advance.

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

Hi folks, I'd like to jump in here and say at 49,000 I'm having both heads changed. It started with pinging and a knocking noise inside the engine. Then the engine light came on. Put it in the dealership figuring they'd say it's normal. To Jeep's credit when I called the next day the secretary said "we have your engine apart and am changing the heads. I change the oil religiously every 5k with Penzoil fully synthetic. My brother told me about AMSOIL for future use. Do you guys have an opinion on it? Thanks in advance.

I’ll make the same reply as in your other post:

I put Amsoil is the same category as oil catch cans and cold air intakes: a fool and his money are soon parted.

 

[Spank]

I change the oil religiously every 5k with Penzoil fully synthetic.

And you can keep doing this. The engine eating shit didn't have anything to do with your choice of oil nor the frequency in which you changed it. It's just really bad luck, unfortunately.

 

[JeepCares]

Hi folks, I'd like to jump in here and say at 49,000 I'm having both heads changed. It started with pinging and a knocking noise inside the engine. Then the engine light came on. Put it in the dealership figuring they'd say it's normal. To Jeep's credit when I called the next day the secretary said "we have your engine apart and am changing the heads. I change the oil religiously every 5k with Penzoil fully synthetic. My brother told me about AMSOIL for future use. Do you guys have an opinion on it? Thanks in advance.

If you're still in need of support with these concerns, feel free to send us a private message.

Kate
Jeep Cares

 

[Big Husky]

Update for my camshaft / expired limited powertrain warranty case:

FCA/Jeep sent this case to a "Stellantis" Case Management company and the rep sounded nice.
But this is now considered a "cost assistance" case, not warranty extension or good will repair. He said, if approved, they're start coverage at 50% and go up in 10% incriminates with my arguments (get ready for Karen me).
But I did get him to say over the phone this would've been 100% covered last year when I started this and would've been covered by warranty. That'll be my argument moving forward. Why knock me down? I have the paper trail.

I was assisted by a Stellantis Case Management representative for my camshafts back in May of this year. The "cost assistance" case, not goodwill request, paid for my parts. I paid for the labour. Even though I initially brought this issue in prior to my Limited Powertrain Warranty expiration. Thanks for that at least.

I’m now receiving a P105D “Intake Valve Stuck in High Lift Position” code. I went back to the dealership that provided the initial camshaft and related parts replacement and the service representative stated a solenoid (or up to 4 solenoids) may need to be touched and/or replaced. And he stated this is common for these.

So is this a known parts issue for these PUG engines or from faulty labour (which I would hate to point the finger at them) at the dealership?

I only want to push this issue, as it’s holding me up from passing my annual state inspection and emission test to be legal on the road for this month!

I know this issue is related to the class action lawsuit currently against the 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine and I would like to have my Jeep that I bought brand new and paid off to be in top performance. I would hate for Jeep to continue to pay for rocker arms, lifters and related valve train components, including the engine control module (ECM), labour… or even a completely new engine. I can continue to hear a ticking noise and am worried this issue may continue or even create a safety concern for me. Just like the clutch recall that has been on my Jeep for the past few years. The performance and safety related to my clutch makes me very weary. And I am sorry to hear about the class action lawsuit on this clutch recall as well.

@JeepCares please search into the multiple emails I sent to your [email protected] email and messages I left with my prior case manager (I left it at his exact phone extension). I have all case and ref numbers. He stated: "Please note that even though your case is closed I am still your support personnel and you can reach out to me in regard to any vehicle concerns." Time is of the essence.

(attached are photos from when they initially replaced my parts)

 

[Octank]

This is a very common failure with the 3.6L.

The metal shavings look worse than they are as long as you didn't operate the Jeep too long after the noise began. The shavings can mostly be washed to the oil pan and then clean out through the bottom. If most of those shavings came from drilling, yes, the tech should have done a better job of containing them, but it can be cleaned up, too.

If you drove it for any extended period of time after the clicking began, the engine will likely end up getting replaced. I've changed a bunch of these 3.6L cams for lifter failure and that's the consensus I have reached. The engine requiring replacement is usually done with customers that continued to drive their vehicle after the ticking started. It's not just the Wrangler. It's every 3.6L application.

Long idle times, such as cop cars, have this issue prematurely, as well.

Jeep is likely going to perform the cam replacement and then re-evaluate the engine replacement after they try the cheaper repair first. Replacing just the cam and lifter does have a high success rate in fixing this issue, so don't worry too much. Good news is, you'll get the repair or an engine under warranty.

This is a very common failure with the 3.6L.

The metal shavings look worse than they are as long as you didn't operate the Jeep too long after the noise began. The shavings can mostly be washed to the oil pan and then clean out through the bottom. If most of those shavings came from drilling, yes, the tech should have done a better job of containing them, but it can be cleaned up, too.

If you drove it for any extended period of time after the clicking began, the engine will likely end up getting replaced. I've changed a bunch of these 3.6L cams for lifter failure and that's the consensus I have reached. The engine requiring replacement is usually done with customers that continued to drive their vehicle after the ticking started. It's not just the Wrangler. It's every 3.6L application.

Long idle times, such as cop cars, have this issue prematurely, as well.

Jeep is likely going to perform the cam replacement and then re-evaluate the engine replacement after they try the cheaper repair first. Replacing just the cam and lifter does have a high success rate in fixing this issue, so don't worry too much. Good news is, you'll get the repair or an engine under warranty.

Having the same issue with cams. They replaced cams lifters and rocker arms all of them but the cams got grinded pretty bad. At what point do you replace the engine ?

 

[chevymitchell]

Having the same issue with cams. They replaced cams lifters and rocker arms all of them but the cams got grinded pretty bad. At what point do you replace the engine ?

The point you're at is when the engine should no doubt be replaced. The only way to get the filings out of the engine now is a complete disassembly. New engine or reman is by for more economical and practical.

 

[Octank]

The point you're at is when the engine should no doubt be replaced. The only way to get the filings out of the engine now is a complete disassembly. New engine or reman is by for more economical and practical.

Appreciate the response. It's under warranty so I'm pressing the issue with jeep and mopar warranty service. I'll keep you posted

 

[HellaYella74]

I guess I’m here for the meeting also. Hi, my name is Bill and I have a cam and rocker problem. 2019 Sport with 74,975 miles. I threw a P219A code two days ago and bank 1 is pretty chatty. I bought the Jeep 2 years ago as a CPO so I have drivetrain warranty until 100k. I’ve changed oil religiously every 5k with Royal Purple and kept all my records. Calling the dealership first thing Monday morning. I will post back what I find out.

 

[Jeep Wick]

I have to wonder, these are high compression engines...is the cam getting ground down trying to compensate for low octane gas? This seems to be more common than 'bad luck.'
We are told the Pentastar is a great motor, but then you see threads like this.

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