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3.0D What’s your hand calculated DIESEL mileage?

JLURD

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From prior experience, I'm betting that after a lot of these hit Fuelly.com and there's enough data to pull from, the average will settle in somewhere around 24 MPG.

24 MPG isn't bad at all, but since diesel costs more it'll basically break even vs. the Pentastar engine in cost.

Also, the higher the MPG an engine achieves the more sensitive it becomes to change, so the guy who posted his results after towing a trailer above ^^ is going to be pretty typical results with a trailer hooked onto the Jeep OR with 38" tires and a lift on the Jeep. It's going to drive better than the Pentastar due to the large difference in torque output, but it's also going to lose a larger % of it's fuel efficiency than the Pentastar with more load against the engine.
Towing at 75-80mph is only typical for people who don’t care what the fuel costs or they care but don’t understand the physics of drag. Also, if you think 38s and a lift will yield 12mpg, I’ll be happy to put a clean c-note on that prediction being well below reality.
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rickinAZ

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Been doing it for years on my JLUR, wife’s compass and two prior VW diesels without issue...have you run into this problem?
Either it's a problem, or every gas station in the US has wasted money on signs discouraging it. That said, I don't have first hand knowledge and I tend to be a mindless rule-follower on stuff like that.
 

JLURD

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Either it's a problem, or every gas station in the US has wasted money on signs discouraging it. That said, I don't have first hand knowledge and I tend to be a mindless rule-follower on stuff like that.
Gas stations discourage it to reduce the rate of spills and save themselves money rather than to save anything on a privately owned vehicle. Also wouldn’t be surprised if the EPA makes them put up such signs.
 

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toolaide4fit

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I don’t know about any of this but I’ll be going to second click to calculate my mileage. Hoping to start seeing some actual diesel mileage post here soon I think 9 or more have been delivered to forum members.
12 forum members I have been tracking have received their rigs.
 

toolaide4fit

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What years?
I had a Toyota Solara that needed replacement of the charcoal canister. I think it was a 1999. I had 5 kids and a ton of cars. I always filled them up to the first click then held it half way for the second click. That is the only one I ever saw fail. I keep my vehicles for over 200K miles. Some a little under. The Solara had 215K on it and it happened at about 200K.
 

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I'm am currently at 1000 miles. I'm averaging 23.2 the computer said 23. This is 50 50 driving and letting it warm up in the am. It's currently mid 20s here. Everyone drives differently so for what it's worth I drove a similar jeep with a 3.6 and auto. I only had it for 100 miles or so. but the computer on it said 17.
 

rickinAZ

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What impact do you all suspect for 35s, like a 2-3 mpg hit?
 

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JLURD

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I would guess closer to 1 mpg. Unless you are flooring it everywhere.
That approximates my experience with the 3.6 JLUR. 1-1.5mpg lost going from OEM 33” KO2s to 35” studded nokian hakka LT2s on AEV pintlers. I wouldn’t expect any further loss with the 3.0 given the torque.
 

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I would guess closer to 1 mpg. Unless you are flooring it everywhere.
I must be, because I only average 13 mpg on my JK with 35s. While I'm certainly not justifying the Diesel based on gas mileage (the break-even point is something like a gazillion miles), seeing an average north of 20 mpg will be strangely satisfying for many of us.
 

JLURD

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I must be, because I only average 13 mpg on my JK with 35s. While I'm certainly not justifying the Diesel based on gas mileage (the break-even point is something like a gazillion miles), seeing an average north of 20 mpg will be strangely satisfying for many of us.
“The break even point” is not a point so much as it is many points depending on the user. Do they change their own oil, how cheap can they buy DEF, what is the delta between 87 and ULSD prices in their region? The last of those is arguably the most important and you can use my case as an example...the $4,000 for my 3.0 is paid in about 60,000 miles based on what I pay for 87 and ULSD. Then there’s the existential approach...to me I break even the day I take delivery because I was willing to pay the $4000 premium for the torque and range even if it never saved me a dime. The rig will have cost me $75,000 by the time it’s done being built for its intended uses...worth it? Depends who you ask, but clearly it is to one person and that’s all that really matters with the economics of any vehicle.
 

rickinAZ

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“The break even point” is not a point so much as it is many points depending on the user. Do they change their own oil, how cheap can they buy DEF, what is the delta between 87 and ULSD prices in their region? The last of those is arguably the most important and you can use my case as an example...the $4,000 for my 3.0 is paid in about 60,000 miles based on what I pay for 87 and ULSD. Then there’s the existential approach...to me I break even the day I take delivery because I was willing to pay the $4000 premium for the torque and range even if it never saved me a dime. The rig will have cost me $75,000 by the time it’s done being built for its intended uses...worth it? Depends who you ask, but clearly it is to one person and that’s all that really matters with the economics of any vehicle.
I suspect my emotional break-even point will occur the first time I roll on that throttle and feel that (seemingly) earth-moving torque.
 

rickinAZ

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“The break even point” is not a point so much as it is many points depending on the user. Do they change their own oil, how cheap can they buy DEF, what is the delta between 87 and ULSD prices in their region? The last of those is arguably the most important and you can use my case as an example...the $4,000 for my 3.0 is paid in about 60,000 miles based on what I pay for 87 and ULSD. Then there’s the existential approach...to me I break even the day I take delivery because I was willing to pay the $4000 premium for the torque and range even if it never saved me a dime. The rig will have cost me $75,000 by the time it’s done being built for its intended uses...worth it? Depends who you ask, but clearly it is to one person and that’s all that really matters with the economics of any vehicle.
I'd even argue that you should use $3,250 as the diesel premium if you would have bought the automatic in any case. Apples to apples that should put your BE below 50K miles.
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