285/75/r17 on stock JL Sport

blink9cd

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You mentioned only adding a .5" front spacer, so was that to just level it? It doesn't look like you are loading it with a tow hitch or anything, so I'm assuming no steel, tow pack. I have the 2" hitch and bike rack, so that naturally pulls the rear down about .5" yielding minimal rake. I remove it in the winter, so it will be interesting to see how much the rear lifts.
Yeah I moved up 4 springs numbers on both front and back, so just a .5" spacer on the front as the differentiator. I think I had about a 3/4" rake before the spring switch out, seems to be almost dead-on level after the switch. I did already have an aftermarket tow hitch, a tow skid there as part of that. I keep in there full time, so that was probably at least 30lbs on the back. Not that I'm counting weight too hard, but I added a tailgate table sometime around then, around 10lbs. I have a bike rack, but I don't bike enough in places far enough from my apt to keep it on full time.

I haven't done any measurements since then, but afterward I switched to a light steel rear bumper (still heavier than stock plastic overall by at least 10-20lbs extra with d-ring shackles I think), and I think these new tires are quoted at 12lbs heavier than stock. Also a light front aluminum bumper that might measure lighter than stock plastic without its winch plate added (not on right now). My guess is if anything my front end is even a little higher in comparison to the rear because of all of that.

But yes at the time it was mostly for the rake, but also knowing that eventually I'll likely add a winch on the front. I thought I looked at a few people's numbers and recalled it was about a .25" sag per 50lbs added (don't quote me on that), winch plus plate might end up being 75-100lbs, so I figured the spacer would take care of most of that and keep me still fairly close to level from a visual standpoint. Who knows until I try though.

 

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Yeah I moved up 4 springs numbers on both front and back, so just a .5" spacer on the front as the differentiator. I think I had about a 3/4" rake before the spring switch out, seems to be almost dead-on level after the switch. I did already have an aftermarket tow hitch, a tow skid there as part of that. I keep in there full time, so that was probably at least 30lbs on the back. Not that I'm counting weight too hard, but I added a tailgate table sometime around then, around 10lbs. I have a bike rack, but I don't bike enough in places far enough from my apt to keep it on full time.

I haven't done any measurements since then, but afterward I switched to a light steel rear bumper (still heavier than stock plastic overall by at least 10-20lbs extra with d-ring shackles I think), and I think these new tires are quoted at 12lbs heavier than stock. Also a light front aluminum bumper that might measure lighter than stock plastic without its winch plate added (not on right now). My guess is if anything my front end is even a little higher in comparison to the rear because of all of that.

But yes at the time it was mostly for the rake, but also knowing that eventually I'll likely add a winch on the front. I thought I looked at a few people's numbers and recalled it was about a .25" sag per 50lbs added (don't quote me on that), winch plus plate might end up being 75-100lbs, so I figured the spacer would take care of most of that and keep me still fairly close to level from a visual standpoint. Who knows until I try though.
285 width is the max that can be ran without poking outside the sport flares. Pictures below. I also installed front RokBlokz mud flaps to help with sling resulting in paint chips. After some measurements, I have about .5” rake. If the bike rack is removed then it’s closer to .75”, best estimate. Do you happen to have the rubicon spare tire holder’s part number?

FEDE1DC0-4283-4DB8-8B5A-B6CEA4FA971E.jpeg


C253E83B-E997-47C6-8D70-D8D344482EDB.jpeg
 

STW

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haven't read the whole thread (started back in 2018!) but can someone tell me why the 285/75/R17 BF Goodrich All Terrain KO2 is so much heavier than the stock 285/70/R17 BF Goodrich All Terrain KO2. The OP posted the weight difference as 61 lbs vs 35 lbs. Is that due to the 285/75/R17 BF Goodrich All Terrain KO2 being a truck tire with beefier sidewalls and harsher ride too? Are there various versions of the 285/75/R17 BF Goodrich All Terrain KO2? It seems like a fairly rare size for the KO2.

I'm on the stock Rubicon tires and don't want to go wider than 285 for my use, but I'd prefer going to 285/75/R17 BF Goodrich All Terrain KO2 when I replace, expect for the extra weight since it's unnecessary to have those load-bearing sidewalls for a Jeep JLR.
 

Punkn89

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haven't read the whole thread (started back in 2018!) but can someone tell me why the 285/75/R17 BF Goodrich All Terrain KO2 is so much heavier than the stock 285/70/R17 BF Goodrich All Terrain KO2. The OP posted the weight difference as 61 lbs vs 35 lbs. Is that due to the 285/75/R17 BF Goodrich All Terrain KO2 being a truck tire with beefier sidewalls and harsher ride too? Are there various versions of the 285/75/R17 BF Goodrich All Terrain KO2? It seems like a fairly rare size for the KO2.

I'm on the stock Rubicon tires and don't want to go wider than 285 for my use, but I'd prefer going to 285/75/R17 BF Goodrich All Terrain KO2 when I replace, expect for the extra weight since it's unnecessary to have those load-bearing sidewalls for a Jeep JLR.
the BFG 285/70/17 weighs 50lbs and the 285/75/17 weighs around 60lbs.
 
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AcesandEights

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Load Range C versus Load Range E
 
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STW

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Thanks. How much would I regret the load rating E vs load rating C, given that makes for a stiffer ride in a lighter where I'm not needing the E rating. I assume it would be a rougher ride.

Also thanks P89 for the weight information--that's much less difference.
 

blink9cd

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Thanks. How much would I regret the load rating E vs load rating C, given that makes for a stiffer ride in a lighter where I'm not needing the E rating. I assume it would be a rougher ride.

Also thanks P89 for the weight information--that's much less difference.
Do you care more about it being KO2s or the size? There are other manufacturers that make 285/75/17 in Load C. And at least for Toyo OC3s, the weight on Discount Tire for both 285/70/17 and 285/75/17 is listed as the same within each size regardless of whether you pick C or E. The price for E is higher though.
 
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blink9cd

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285 width is the max that can be ran without poking outside the sport flares. Pictures below. I also installed front RokBlokz mud flaps to help with sling resulting in paint chips. After some measurements, I have about .5” rake. If the bike rack is removed then it’s closer to .75”, best estimate. Do you happen to have the rubicon spare tire holder’s part number?

FEDE1DC0-4283-4DB8-8B5A-B6CEA4FA971E.jpeg


C253E83B-E997-47C6-8D70-D8D344482EDB.jpeg
Ah interesting on the measurements and the picture. Your bike rack weigh around 50lbs? (about what mine is).

Tire carrier numbers:
68474050AC - Sport (2021)
68474051AC - Rubicon (2021)

ABs are 2020; I have a '21 and picked up an 51AB and it works perfectly. See this thread for pictures of the two side by side:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...carrier-2-different-part-s.38640/post-2060331

Not that overwhelmingly different in price online vs relocation brackets, but you do get to save the weight this way. I was able to find mine on here from a member for cheaper than eBay, but this is a start:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224622309822
 

Willys_Wonka

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Ah interesting on the measurements and the picture. Your bike rack weigh around 50lbs? (about what mine is).

Tire carrier numbers:
68474050AC - Sport (2021)
68474051AC - Rubicon (2021)

ABs are 2020; I have a '21 and picked up an 51AB and it works perfectly. See this thread for pictures of the two side by side:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...carrier-2-different-part-s.38640/post-2060331

Not that overwhelmingly different in price online vs relocation brackets, but you do get to save the weight this way. I was able to find mine on here from a member for cheaper than eBay, but this is a start:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224622309822
More than likely 285/75/17 will fit on the sport carrier, but it’s real tight. I read that deflating the spare about 6-8# is enough to squeeze it in. Yes, my bike rack is approximately 50#. I might go .75” rear and 1” front the more I think about it. Im only increasing 1” tire diameter from the current rubber, so .5” body clearance in the well. Essentially I would add .25” rear and .5” front we’ll space. Once the new tires are on I’ll assess the needed spacing at that time, but it’s nice having a general idea. I could also run the current spare until I figure out what to do with the larger size. Buy that spare later.
 

Willys_Wonka

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Do you care more about it being KO2s or the size? There are other manufacturers that make 285/75/17 in Load C. And at least for Toyo OC3s, the weight on Discount Tire for both 285/70/17 and 285/75/17 is listed as the same within each size regardless of whether you pick C or E. The price for E is higher though.
Only tires in 285/75/17, C rated are Nitto ridge grapplers and Toyo open country 3’s to my understanding. The C rating is a smoother ride, but sacrificing E rating durability. Depending on how you will use them should help decide. I’m about 90% rolling on pavement, so C rating is the easy choice.
 

Punkn89

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The 315/70r17 BFG KO2 in C rating will be very similar in diameter to the 285/75r17 nitto and Toyos. C rating will definitely give you the better ride. Of course it can all depend on your wheels/offset.

 

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