2023 Sarge Rubicon 392XR AEV JL370

[bobholthaus]

Jason: thanks for the info. I have access to wholesale pricing on Baja Designs, so I am going to preorder my single Pro for AEV to install (which they said is fine to do).

On the Midland Ghost: is the JL any harder to work on in terms of the tailgate wiring, versus a JK? I didn't think the wiring was that hard, and I was considering asking AEV if they'd pull the antenna wiring through the tailgate for me when they were putting the tire carrier on. I just really like the look of the Ghost back there, and in the event I wanted to swap it with their longer antenna (for instance, on a long highway trip where I would want max range), it would look good for their longer antenna too (which I don't want to run when I am trail running here in Missouri, or trying to get into my garage).

Next question: AEV said they spec the driving/combo lens on the 20" Baja Designs amber light bar that goes in the lower front skid plate. I am considering swapping that to a wide/corner lens. The only time I'll really use that light is in rain, snow, or fog, and really rain is what I encounter here most in Missouri. Any reason if I'm going with the amber lens on that unit that I'd want to have it being used a spot/driving combo? BTW, me total front end light setup will include OEM LED headlights; Rigid 360 dual color SAE fogs (where I will run the amber as DRLs); the AEV 7000s (which will likely be wired on the high beam trigger of my Switch Pros); and a pair of Rigid 360 driving lights at the A-Pillar (which will definitely be wired to the the high beam switch on the Switch Pros; I use this setup on my JK and those A-pillar lights were a perfect supplement to my high beams; I had a 20" Rigid light bar on the JK that I would switch on manually when offroad, and I may just have the 7000s be that way too). Anyway, with the 7000s and the A-Pillar lights, I don't feel like the Baja bar needs to be anything more than wide cornering and supplemental fog lights. What am I not thinking about? Thanks!

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[392OVRLND]

Jason: thanks for the info. I have access to wholesale pricing on Baja Designs, so I am going to preorder my single Pro for AEV to install (which they said is fine to do).

On the Midland Ghost: is the JL any harder to work on in terms of the tailgate wiring, versus a JK? I didn't think the wiring was that hard, and I was considering asking AEV if they'd pull the antenna wiring through the tailgate for me when they were putting the tire carrier on. I just really like the look of the Ghost back there, and in the event I wanted to swap it with their longer antenna (for instance, on a long highway trip where I would want max range), it would look good for their longer antenna too (which I don't want to run when I am trail running here in Missouri, or trying to get into my garage).

Next question: AEV said they spec the driving/combo lens on the 20" Baja Designs amber light bar that goes in the lower front skid plate. I am considering swapping that to a wide/corner lens. The only time I'll really use that light is in rain, snow, or fog, and really rain is what I encounter here most in Missouri. Any reason if I'm going with the amber lens on that unit that I'd want to have it being used a spot/driving combo? BTW, me total front end light setup will include OEM LED headlights; Rigid 360 dual color SAE fogs (where I will run the amber as DRLs); the AEV 7000s (which will likely be wired on the high beam trigger of my Switch Pros); and a pair of Rigid 360 driving lights at the A-Pillar (which will definitely be wired to the the high beam switch on the Switch Pros; I use this setup on my JK and those A-pillar lights were a perfect supplement to my high beams; I had a 20" Rigid light bar on the JK that I would switch on manually when offroad, and I may just have the 7000s be that way too). Anyway, with the 7000s and the A-Pillar lights, I don't feel like the Baja bar needs to be anything more than wide cornering and supplemental fog lights. What am I not thinking about? Thanks!

The run through the tailgate is about the same. Working through (under) the plastic trim pieces on the sides of the cargo area on the JL is in some ways easier and in some ways more of a pain in the ass than those same pieces on the JK. Same goes for the trim pieces around the doors.

I’ve done it on both, and I’m just personally a bit over it, especially when there is no functional gain and, aesthetically speaking, there are clean-looking front mounting options nowadays. You’d also never forget your longer antenna was attached when driving into a garage…

That seems like a shitload of light. I don’t care for A-pillar lights, personally. Been there, done that on the JK. Did not do it on the JL.

The AEV 7000 Series lights are amazing, and in combination with the 20” Baja Designs light bar with driving combo lens and the factory headlights, I don’t see how you’d need more light unless you’ve been staring at too many solar eclipses.

Any light (besides marker lights) mounted above the headlights is classified by most states (and, if I recall correctly, federal DOT guidelines) as being for off-road use only, so not sure why you’d chose a light with a driving pattern for that position and you definitely shouldn’t be wiring them with your high beams on-road.

Having had the 7000 Series lights on my last JL, I can say with confidence that other drivers encountering you would hate you (I would be wanting to shoot you), if you wired them to your high beam switch and used them on-road. Also, they are not mounted in a legal position in most (if not all) states to be using them on-road.

I would leave the driving combo lens on the skid light bar. It is perfect in poor weather conditions, like rain and snow, and it is a legal beam pattern in a legal lighting position for on-road use.

 

[muzicman]

The run through the tailgate is about the same. Working through (under) the plastic trim pieces on the sides of the cargo area on the JL is in some ways easier and in some ways more of a pain in the ass than those same pieces on the JK. Same goes for the trim pieces around the doors.

I’ve done it on both, and I’m just personally a bit over it, especially when there is no functional gain and, aesthetically speaking, there are clean-looking front mounting options nowadays. You’d also never forget your longer antenna was attached when driving into a garage…

That seems like a shitload of light. I don’t care for A-pillar lights, personally. Been there, done that on the JK. Did not do it on the JL.

The AEV 7000 Series lights are amazing, and in combination with the 20” Baja Designs light bar with driving combo lens and the factory headlights, I don’t see how you’d need more light unless you’ve been staring at too many solar eclipses.

Any light (besides marker lights) mounted above the headlights is classified by most states (and, if I recall correctly, federal DOT guidelines) as being for off-road use only, so not sure why you’d chose a light with a driving pattern for that position and you definitely shouldn’t be wiring them with your high beams on-road.

Having had the 7000 Series lights on my last JL, I can say with confidence that other drivers encountering you would hate you (I would be wanting to shoot you), if you wired them to your high beam switch and used them on-road. Also, they are not mounted in a legal position in most (if not all) states to be using them on-road.

I would leave the driving combo lens on the skid light bar. It is perfect in poor weather conditions, like rain and snow, and it is a legal beam pattern in a legal lighting position for on-road use.

I believe the between the provided front lighting with the JL-370, additional lighting would provide little added value. I am amber both skid light bar and 7000 series, and together in off-road (or that random backroad where there is NO traffic) it is so bright, sometimes the glare off of road signs can be overwhelming. I love the combination! The change I am considering is wiring the rear Squadron in the bumper to reverse lighting, but as of now I just hit Aux 3 when I need it.

 

[392OVRLND]

I believe the between the provided front lighting with the JL-370, additional lighting would provide little added value. I am amber both skid light bar and 7000 series, and together in off-road (or that random backroad where there is NO traffic) it is so bright, sometimes the glare off of road signs can be overwhelming. I love the combination! The change I am considering is wiring the rear Squadron in the bumper to reverse lighting, but as of now I just hit Aux 3 when I need it.

Agreed. The BD light bar and 7000series lighting is more than adequate for every condition I’ve run into.

 

[bobholthaus]

Gentlemen: I appreciate the reply from both of you, and acknowledge both of your comments and concerns. While I realize that having the high beam trigger set to turn on either the 7000s or potential Rigid 360 windshield lights is illegal, the increased light that I was experiencing on my JK in my daily use was worth risking the ticket. Now, on my JK I wouldn't leave the 20" Rigid light bar in that mode, because the glare off the street signs WAS too much; that's how I'm feeling using the 7000s may be as well. But, although I'd prefer NOT to mess with the windshield Rigid 360s, that driving light beam, aimed just a little wider than my OEM high beams, made for very nice "ditch lights" for me to see deer on the roads that I frequently drive on. And, they weren't SO bright that if I didn't switch the high beams off in time for oncoming traffic, they weren't so bright that someone may either shoot me, or drive into me because they were so blinded! Anyway, those are amazing supplemental lights, and with the Switch Pros having the toggle feature, I can assure you that it's really nice (granted, these were with TruckLite LEDs on my JK; the OEM LEDs on the JL may render these not needed. They will be the last lights I add).

I will consider leaving the amber light as a driving combo, but are you saying that that bar isn't blinding enough that I could use that in the rain and not need it to go off with my high beams? Like I can just drive around and leave it turned on? That was my intention having that bar be a wide cornering unit, so on rainy/snowy nights, I would just manually turn it on and just leave it on the entire time I drive. It's not SAE, so I'm guessing the light beam cut off is not sufficient to leave on, so even on those nights I'd have to have it linked to the high beams (if I was on road), and my hunch is that you're going to say that if I'm going to do that, I might as well make it a driving combo beam. I wish rigid or baja made an SAE amber 20" bar and I would buy that and run it on rainy nights to supplement my RIGID 360 amber fogs (which again, will be dual amber and white - I have these on my Grand Cherokee now (D2s), and I love them). Of course once I get it all finished, I'll post pics about it all.

Thanks guys.

 

[muzicman]

Gentlemen: I appreciate the reply from both of you, and acknowledge both of your comments and concerns. While I realize that having the high beam trigger set to turn on either the 7000s or potential Rigid 360 windshield lights is illegal, the increased light that I was experiencing on my JK in my daily use was worth risking the ticket. Now, on my JK I wouldn't leave the 20" Rigid light bar in that mode, because the glare off the street signs WAS too much; that's how I'm feeling using the 7000s may be as well. But, although I'd prefer NOT to mess with the windshield Rigid 360s, that driving light beam, aimed just a little wider than my OEM high beams, made for very nice "ditch lights" for me to see deer on the roads that I frequently drive on. And, they weren't SO bright that if I didn't switch the high beams off in time for oncoming traffic, they weren't so bright that someone may either shoot me, or drive into me because they were so blinded! Anyway, those are amazing supplemental lights, and with the Switch Pros having the toggle feature, I can assure you that it's really nice (granted, these were with TruckLite LEDs on my JK; the OEM LEDs on the JL may render these not needed. They will be the last lights I add).

I will consider leaving the amber light as a driving combo, but are you saying that that bar isn't blinding enough that I could use that in the rain and not need it to go off with my high beams? Like I can just drive around and leave it turned on? That was my intention having that bar be a wide cornering unit, so on rainy/snowy nights, I would just manually turn it on and just leave it on the entire time I drive. It's not SAE, so I'm guessing the light beam cut off is not sufficient to leave on, so even on those nights I'd have to have it linked to the high beams (if I was on road), and my hunch is that you're going to say that if I'm going to do that, I might as well make it a driving combo beam. I wish rigid or baja made an SAE amber 20" bar and I would buy that and run it on rainy nights to supplement my RIGID 360 amber fogs (which again, will be dual amber and white - I have these on my Grand Cherokee now (D2s), and I love them). Of course once I get it all finished, I'll post pics about it all.

Thanks guys.

We have had some crappy weather recently (rainy/foggy day and night) and I have been running the skid light bar always on and had no oncoming drivers flash me for too bright. YMMV.

Also, I will say that I have had many comments about how "Clean" and "Factory" the front end looks with really only the 7000's being visible, and I feel the same way. The JL-370 "look" is super classy from the front, so I'm resisting every temptation to go with "More is Better" :P I "MAY" upgrade factory fogs to the new & improved versions of the BD SAE drop-ins when they release (was told February).

 

[392OVRLND]

Gentlemen: I appreciate the reply from both of you, and acknowledge both of your comments and concerns. While I realize that having the high beam trigger set to turn on either the 7000s or potential Rigid 360 windshield lights, the increased light that I was experiencing on my JK in my daily use was worth risking the ticket. Now, on my JK I wouldn't leave the 20" Rigid light bar in that mode, because the glare off the street signs WAS too much; that's how I'm feeling using the 7000s may be as well. But, although I'd prefer NOT to mess with the windshield Rigid 360s, that driving light beam, aimed just a little wider than my OEM high beams, made for very nice "ditch lights" for me to see deer on the roads that I frequently drive on. And, they weren't SO bright that if I didn't switch the high beams off in time for oncoming traffic, they weren't so bright that someone may either shoot me, or drive into me because they were so blinded! Anyway, those are amazing supplemental lights, and with the Switch Pros having the toggle feature, I can assure you that it's really nice (granted, these were with TruckLite LEDs on my JK; the OEM LEDs on the JL may render these not needed. They will be the last lights I add).

I will consider leaving the amber light as a driving combo, but are you saying that that bar isn't blinding enough that I could use that in the rain and not need it to go off with my high beams? Like I can just drive around and leave it turned on? That was my intention having that bar be a wide cornering unit, so on rainy/snowy nights, I would just manually turn it on and just leave it on the entire time I drive. It's not SAE, so I'm guessing the light beam cut off is not sufficient to leave on, so even on those nights I'd have to have it linked to the high beams (if I was on road), and my hunch is that you're going to say that if I'm going to do that, I might as well make it a driving combo beam. I wish rigid or baja made an SAE amber 20" bar and I would buy that and run it on rainy nights to supplement my RIGID 360 amber fogs (which again, will be dual amber and white - I have these on my Grand Cherokee now (D2s), and I love them). Of course once I get it all finished, I'll post pics about it all.

Thanks guys.

I can tell you right now, you’re over analyzing this without the experience with the factory lighting on the JL, or the standard content lighting on the AEV JL370.

The factory LED headlamps on the JL are superior to even the best aftermarket DOT-approved LED solutions out there for the JK.

Because they vary state to state (and also interact with federal guidelines), I suggest you read the FMVSS guidelines and the statutes in the states you are planning to travel.

I have read many of these state-level statutes and not a single one has provided for mounting auxiliary driving lights / passing lights / spot lamps above the height of the headlights, which is to say using A-pillar lights as supplemental lighting on-road, regardless if they are SAE or DOT certified, is not permitted.

 

[bobholthaus]

I agree. The windshield lights will be the last ones I put on (if at all, after this conversation).

The Rigid 360 SAE Dual's will look great in the bumper. I like the amber look for DRLs, and then I turn on the white portion of them at night. Two lights in one.

https://www.rigidindustries.com/360-series-sae-fog-yellow-white-pair-36122.html

Downside is that you have to buy a full kit to just get the mounts:

https://www.rigidindustries.com/2018-jeep-jl-sport-sport-s-fog-mount-kit-37109.html

They made the kit for all 3 JL bumpers types/models; I've asked AEV (today) which kit would be ideal for their bumper.

But if you're saying you can run the BD skid light all of the time, then the Rigid Dual's would not be needed; I may still go with wide cornering and use the BD 20" as my DRLs.

 

[bobholthaus]

I can tell you right now, you’re over analyzing this without the experience with the factory lighting on the JL, or the standard content lighting on the AEV JL370.

The factory LED headlamps on the JL are superior to even the best aftermarket DOT-approved LED solutions out there for the JK.

Because they vary state to state (and also interact with federal guidelines), I suggest you read the FMVSS guidelines and the statutes in the states you are planning to travel.

I have read many of these state-level statutes and not a single one has provided for mounting auxiliary driving lights / passing lights / spot lamps above the height of the headlights, which is to say using A-pillar lights as supplemental lighting on-road, regardless if they are SAE or DOT certified, is not permitted.

Sounds like I need to just get my JL370, test the OEM LED lighting, and THEN make a decision. I appreciate your patience and the info on all of this.

 

[392OVRLND]

I agree. The windshield lights will be the last ones I put on (if at all, after this conversation).

The Rigid 360 SAE Dual's will look great in the bumper. I like the amber look for DRLs, and then I turn on the white portion of them at night. Two lights in one.

https://www.rigidindustries.com/360-series-sae-fog-yellow-white-pair-36122.html

Downside is that you have to buy a full kit to just get the mounts:

https://www.rigidindustries.com/2018-jeep-jl-sport-sport-s-fog-mount-kit-37109.html

They made the kit for all 3 JL bumpers types/models; I've asked AEV (today) which kit would be ideal for their bumper.

But if you're saying you can run the BD skid light all of the time, then the Rigid Dual's would not be needed; I may still go with wide cornering and use the BD 20" as my DRLs.

Asking genuinely… You do know the JL factory LEDs have DRLS, right?

 

[bobholthaus]

Asking genuinely… You do know the JL factory LEDs have DRLS, right?

Yes, I know that. Thanks for asking gently, ha.

I like the look of amber DRLs. So that's what I'd prefer to have as my "DRLs". I am assuming that with the ProCal or the MiniTazer that I can turn off the OEM DRLs if I'd like to.

So that you guy know that I am not a complete newbie, here's my writeup from JKForum on my old light switch setup, if you care to look. I had about 80+ hours of wiring in my JK (including heating my children's car seats!!)

Boy I wish Switch Pros was in existence when I started this JK build 10 years ago!!

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-...trattw-switch-writeup-rr-pillar-mount-263893/

 

[Ratbert]

We have had some crappy weather recently (rainy/foggy day and night) and I have been running the skid light bar always on and had no oncoming drivers flash me for too bright. YMMV.

Also, I will say that I have had many comments about how "Clean" and "Factory" the front end looks with really only the 7000's being visible, and I feel the same way. The JL-370 "look" is super classy from the front, so I'm resisting every temptation to go with "More is Better" :P I "MAY" upgrade factory fogs to the new & improved versions of the BD SAE drop-ins when they release (was told February).

Agreed, the amber skid light is awesome in bad conditions, but it's too bright for oncoming traffic.

 

[392OVRLND]

Yes, I know that. Thanks for asking gently, ha.

I like the look of amber DRLs. So that's what I'd prefer to have as my "DRLs". I am assuming that with the ProCal or the MiniTazer that I can turn off the OEM DRLs if I'd like to.

So that you guy know that I am not a complete newbie, here's my writeup from JKForum on my old light switch setup, if you care to look. I had about 80+ hours of wiring in my JK (including heating my children's car seats!!)

Boy I wish Switch Pros was in existence when I started this JK build 10 years ago!!

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-...trattw-switch-writeup-rr-pillar-mount-263893/

FYI, according to your .gov over there in Missouri... Title XIX Chapter 307, section 307.080

"Any motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed three auxiliary lamps mounted on the front at a height not less than twelve inches nor more than forty-two inches above the level surface upon which the vehicle stands."

The height of A-pillar lights on a JL370 would absolutely be above 42" (and you'd be exceeding the total of three auxiliary lamps on the front of the vehicle).

In Colorado, we can have 2 spot lamps, 2 fog lamps, 2 auxiliary passing lamps, and 2 auxiliary driving lamps, all of which are listed and defined separately from the section on headlamps, and it's so loosely defined that I could call the 7000 Series lights "spot lamps" and the BD light bar a "driving lamp."

 

[Ratbert]

FYI, according to your .gov over there in Missouri... Title XIX Chapter 307, section 307.080

"Any motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed three auxiliary lamps mounted on the front at a height not less than twelve inches nor more than forty-two inches above the level surface upon which the vehicle stands."

The height of A-pillar lights on a JL370 would absolutely be above 42" (and you'd be exceeding the total of three auxiliary lamps on the front of the vehicle).

In Colorado, we can have 2 spot lamps, 2 fog lamps, 2 auxiliary passing lamps, and 2 auxiliary driving lamps, all of which are listed and defined separately from the section on headlamps, and it's so loosely defined that I could call the 7000 Series lights "spot lamps" and the BD light bar a "driving lamp."

Where did you find those Colorado lighting laws? I read through what I could find, but didn't see those details.

Note that the Missouri law that you quoted doesn't say that those laws are only for vehicles registered there, implying that any vehicle visiting the state technically has to conform. Ditto for Utah's laws making stubbies that aren't as wide as the vehicle's track illegal there (e.g. my AEV stubbies), etc.

 

[392OVRLND]

Where did you find those Colorado lighting laws? I read through what I could find, but didn't see those details.

Note that the Missouri law that you quoted doesn't say that those laws are only for vehicles registered there, implying that any vehicle visiting the state technically has to conform. Ditto for Utah's laws making stubbies that aren't as wide as the vehicle's track illegal there (e.g. my AEV stubbies), etc.

Colorado § 42-4-212

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