2021 JLUR (manual, 3.6L ESS) Won't Start

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demisx

demisx

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Is it enough just to apply that stuff to the male pins?

Also, I’ve unplugged and replugged the XY302A connector then checked continuity between brake pedal position sensor connector and the antilock brakes module connector. All three wires show closed circuit (~ 0.8 Ohm). Too bad I can’t check for the DTC code right away. It only pops up after some driving.





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NBB

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You might be done, then.

I typically inject the grease into the female side of the connector. Any grease, any-how, is better than none. Is there already grease in there? If so, then it's probably fine. If not - then while you're in there - it's cheap insurance.

The way to find an intermittent open is to use a bed-of-nails type probe or a needle and look at ohms over some length while bending, poking, tugging, pushing, etc, on the connectors and wires. The sample rate on your Fluke should be high enough such that you'll see the resistance spike if there is a problem. If not - then you are probably good to go. You can do the same if you know the expected voltage through the wire - check it by piercing the wire in various places while poking and prodding around.
 
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You might be done, then.

I typically inject the grease into the female side of the connector. Any grease, any-how, is better than none. Is there already grease in there? If so, then it's probably fine. If not - then while you're in there - it's cheap insurance.

The way to find an intermittent open is to use a bed-of-nails type probe or a needle and look at ohms over some length while bending, poking, tugging, pushing, etc, on the connectors and wires. The sample rate on your Fluke should be high enough such that you'll see the resistance spike if there is a problem. If not - then you are probably good to go. You can do the same if you know the expected voltage through the wire - check it by piercing the wire in various places while poking and prodding around.
Thank you. I’ve learned so much from you within the past two weeks - it’s amazing.

I’ve just started the Jeep and the CEL is gone. I didn’t even have to clear anything. Doesn’t mean there wobe another surprise for me tomorrow, but I’d take it as a good sign for now. 🥴

I’ve also fixed all broken plugs, missing loom, ties etc. that the dealer kindly left for me. I think I am gonna leave the bypass wire as is for now and see how it goes.

Thank you all for your help. It’s been quite a couple of weeks. 😀 I’ll keep you updated if anything else pops up.
 
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Well, still getting this P057B code and CEL is set after some driving. However, my understanding this may not be applicable to wiring after all. I found this online TSB that says the Brake Pedal Learn procedure must be performed each time a PCM is replaced. I won’t be surprised if the dealership service simply didn’t do this.

I’m still researching if there is a way to perform this learning procedure yourself...

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gm920

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Well, still getting this P057B code and CEL is set after some driving. However, my understanding this may not be applicable to wiring after all. I found this online TSB that says the Brake Pedal Learn procedure must be performed each time a PCM is replaced. I won’t be surprised if the dealership service simply didn’t do this.

I’m still researching if there is a way to perform this learning procedure yourself...

BEF59728-CAAC-4194-9C64-1B0056DE34DF.png
Looks this will require a factory StarScan tool or equivalent. Good luck. You may be able to find an independent or mobile mechanic to do it, if you don't want to go back to the dealer.
 
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Looks this will require a factory StarScan tool or equivalent. Good luck. You may be able to find an independent or mobile mechanic to do it, if you don't want to go back to the dealer.
Yeah, looks like not something I would be able to do myself. I hope this is something the dealer can easily do via their software through the OBD2 port and won't have to touch any wiring. If so, I might just let them do this. What else can go wrong, right? 😁
 

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Yeah, looks like not something I would be able to do myself. I hope this is something the dealer can easily do via their software through the OBD2 port and won't have to touch any wiring. If so, I might just let them do this. What else can go wrong, right? 😁
You can do it yourself, but it’s a $2k investment for a Micropod 2 and necessary subscriptions. Almost worth it IMO if you have a few vehicles that it would work for - and the tool didn’t effectively become a worthless brick unless your subscription is active, which is a deal killer for me.

Otherwise might be worth calling around to see if any local independents have made the investment. I give that tech about a 30% chance of getting it done without cutting a bunch more wires. Maybe bring in that service bulletin and make it clear that is all you want done.

For the value of my time, I would have paid for the 3 day subscription to TechAuthority - in this case I would personally read over the procedure for reflashing and make sure the brake relearn isn’t all he missed - also make sure you understand the full diagnostic procedure for that particular code. As I think you realize in hindsight - following the same procedure on your own for the clutch sensor likely would have had this done 2 weeks ago, no trip to dealer, no cut wires, and less of your time.
 
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You can do it yourself, but it’s a $2k investment for a Micropod 2 and necessary subscriptions. Almost worth it IMO if you have a few vehicles that it would work for - and the tool didn’t effectively become a worthless brick unless your subscription is active, which is a deal killer for me.
The $2K is pretty high. Not sure how much I'll use it after this issue resolved. I only have one FCA vehicle. However, this site sells it for $200. Is it the same thing?

https://www.obd2tool.com/goods-5172-wiTech+MicroPod+2+for+Chrysler+Diagnostic+Tool.html

If so, I am interested. And, how much is the subscription (bulk park)?

Otherwise might be worth calling around to see if any local independents have made the investment. I give that tech about a 30% chance of getting it done without cutting a bunch more wires. Maybe bring in that service bulletin and make it clear that is all you want done.
100%! I do regret taking it in, especially since we were so close to fixing it in a much better way.

I've shared the bulletin with the dealer rep and asked them to set up the time for me to come in and do the brake learn procedure on the spot while I am waiting. I will re-iterate that I don't want any wiring touched and if they don't think this is a simple programming issue through OBD2 port - I want them to stop.

For the value of my time, I would have paid for the 3 day subscription to TechAuthority - in this case I would personally read over the procedure for reflashing and make sure the brake relearn isn’t all he missed - also make sure you understand the full diagnostic procedure for that particular code. As I think you realize in hindsight - following the same procedure on your own for the clutch sensor likely would have had this done 2 weeks ago, no trip to dealer, no cut wires, and less of your time.
Good idea. I am gonna do this today. I am sure there is a checklist of some kind to follow after a PCM has been replaced.
 

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However, this site sells it for $200. Is it the same thing?

https://www.obd2tool.com/goods-5172-wiTech+MicroPod+2+for+Chrysler+Diagnostic+Tool.html

If so, I am interested. And, how much is the subscription (bulk park)?
Unfortunately, no, it's not. That tool won't work with the 2018+ security gateways and you won't be able to connect to a current WiTech subscription. There are also many reports of the pirate tools becoming disabled when you attempt to connect online with older vehicles, regardless. WiTech 3 day is about the same as TechAuthority 3 day. Depends what you need to do.

Seems to me, from my homework, the JScan is the least expensive way to get a full data stream from all modules - that and pulling codes, which even the most basic of tools does - is pretty much 90+% of what you need from a dealer tool for real world repairs. IMO.
 
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Unfortunately, no, it's not. That tool won't work with the 2018+ security gateways and you won't be able to connect to a current WiTech subscription. There are also many reports of the pirate tools becoming disabled when you attempt to connect online with older vehicles, regardless. WiTech 3 day is about the same as TechAuthority 3 day. Depends what you need to do.

Seems to me, from my homework, the JScan is the least expensive way to get a full data stream from all modules - that and pulling codes, which even the most basic of tools does - is pretty much 90+% of what you need from a dealer tool for real world repairs. IMO.
Got it. I have JScan, but looks like it's still a working progress. I don't always see the streaming module live data, sometimes it's just blank. But it is a very affordable diagnostic solution with a big potential IMHO. Obviously, can do any PCM related programming with it.
 

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Same problem as many have had. ESS quit working, dealer fixed it. Then the yellow engine light came on about 2 or 3 days later. No funny sounds or smells, it ran perfectly. Took it to dealer. They plugged in a little thing under the dash. It said something about emissions. Scheduled an appointment for it to get looked at further...and yellow engine light turned off by itself. No idea what is going on. But I don’t want to take my Jeep in if the engine light isn’t on. Any ideas?
 

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Thank you for sharing. Hope your issue has been resolved and the Jeep works perfectly now. Since you say you had to push the brake pedal really hard to make it start it could be a faulty brake pedal sensor. I believe I’ve read about it in one of the other posts.
Still having issues. I took my Jeep to the dealer to get the Steering TSB work done and asked them to look at the hard break pedal/will not start problem. First they said that they found a fault code and had cleared it and I should take it home and report back if it happens again. It happened again the very next morning. Its at the dealer right now and they want to keep it overnight and check it in the morning. They are still claiming they cannot find anything wrong. I have told them that if it fails again I will simply get it towed at Jeeps cost to them and they can see the issue for themselves. One tech even tried to say that the brake pedals are stiffer in these cars. Sorry dude...but this only started happening a few weeks ago and the pedal has almost no travel and requires a weight lifter to push it down. Something is not right and I've seen a few other people post the same issue but nobody seems to have come up with a solution thus far. I will post again when I get this resolved.
 

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