2021 JL on 42s

J0E

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Having read all the threads on JLRs on 37+, I've decide to follow the buy once, cry once philosophy and bought a new JLR 2.0T. I need 4:1 xfer case and white painted top so ordered a JLR

Build plan:

Threads on 40" builds:
Too many JLUR builds adding truss + RCV to list. I can edit this list if folks want to read that approach.
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Kreepin1

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Having read all the threads on JLRs on 37+, I've decide to follow the buy once, cry once philosophy and order this new Sport JL. It's the cheapest JL. I'll have northridge4x4 build the JL similar to the DYNATRAC CODE1 2018 JEEP WRANGLER JL BUILD. Here's the link to the 2018 Jeep Wrangler JL Sport Build Specs Will that cheapest Wrangler with the automatic and 2.0L turbo work? The rig will only be used for off road so I don't need any car luxuries.

Some differences:
  • MT 15/43-17LT Tire, Baja Pro XS - Tire is 42.5" x 18.3" wide. I want a wide tire for the sand in Maui & Big island. We don't often hit deep mud in Maui, mostly rock crawling. Summers will be in UT, MT, ID, CA, WA. Places like the Rubicon and Moab. Nitto mud grapplers do well in the sand here.
  • Obviously 2 door. The JL's seem to dominate on Maui. JLUR's are very common as most of the car rental companies get them and sell off after a few years. Most Rubicons here never go off road.
Here's what I'm really missing from the Sport, available on the Rubicon, but I'm not happy paying $7 K for:
  • 4:1 xfer case for crawling. I'm told 5.38 diff and automatic will work.
  • Painted white top for Maui sun. Black is worst case.
How much more can I get for the new Ruby drive train vs the Sport? That might make it worth ordering a Rubicon.

Threads on 40" builds:
Too many JLUR builds adding truss + RCV to list. I can edit this list if folks want to read that approach.

Jared at dynatrac gave me his number but I wanted to run this by the forum and do some more homework before I call him. Looking for feedback but not interested in V8 (I'm not climbing any sand hills).
I can't speak for a JL, but I've got 43's on my CJ7. The 304 had less power but more low end torque than either the 2.0 or 3.6. I'm running Dana 80 guts in the rear Dana 70 and RCV's in the front Dana 60.

The link you posted is to a manual transmission, but then you talk about a 2.0 and auto. Which one are you thinking? I'm a manual transmission guy, running 5.86 gears and my crawl ratio is right at 100:1 and I wouldn't want to be any higher (smaller numbers). So I think the 2.71 transfer case is going to be marginal, even if you drop the gears to 5.86 (I wouldn't go any lower for strength).

My advice, get the cheap JL but add the tow package so you get the stronger alternator and switches in the dash to control your lockers. Ask for 5.86 gears instead of the 5.38's and get electric locking diffs. I'd also get the half doors unless you plan to run no doors at all, they are light and awesome. I do have some concern about starting with a 2-door. My wheelbase is like 104" and I've worked real hard to keep it low. What you describe is going to be very tall and tippy. Cool, but not sure I'd want to go crawling with you!
 
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J0E

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Fantastic advice Kreepin1

The link you posted is to a manual transmission, but then you talk about a 2.0 and auto. Which one are you thinking?
When I click on this new Sport JL. it brings up 8 sp auto and Trailer-Tow and Heavy-Duty electrical Group.

So I think the 2.71 transfer case is going to be marginal, even if you drop the gears to 5.86 (I wouldn't go any lower for strength).
That's exactly what I was thinking. Another reason to start with the Rubicon so I can have the 4:1 xfer case.

We do get sideways a lot here rock crawling, so maybe 37's on a stock Rubicon with RCV's would be better. I'll also do Moab in the summer.

I've rolled three different 4x4's out wheeling, it's not fun. None of them were lifted.

If I pay an extra $600 for anti-spin diff on the Sport, it upgrades to Dana44. Isn't that axle worth something on Craigslist?

At this point I think the smart money is a JLR on 37's and see if I need more. I can easily sell it used in Hawaii for more than I paid for it from dennisdillonchryslerjeepdodge should I feel the need for more. Been wheeling for over 50 years but never had front lockers or even bigger tires.
 

Kreepin1

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Weird. I get a white bone stock Jeep with no options when I click...

The Rubicon is a hell of a deal if 37's or less will work for you. For a trail only rig on 40's or bigger it makes sense to start with another model depending on what you need in terms of creature comforts and looks. I have to admit an Islander on 40's would be pretty cool.. The downsides to the Rubicon are cost and weight.

In terms of the 4:1 transfer case, they turn up used from time to time and there is always the Atlas option.

I wouldn't get any options thinking to sell them on Craigslist with the possible exception of half doors since demand is so high right now. People looking for Dana 44's want Rubicon axles.
 
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J0E

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The Rubicon is a hell of a deal if 37's or less will work for you
I think I'll order the JLR Monday and have northridge4x4 install
  • Toyo Tires 37X13.50R17LT, Open Country M/T -
  • FUEL- D695 COVERT 1PC Candy Red with Matte Black Ring
  • Warn 89120 ZEON 12 Winch with Wire Rope - 12000 lb
  • RCV PERFORMANCE ULTIMATE DANA 44 AXLE 300M CV front
  • RCV Ultimate 300M Dana 44 Rear Axle or Yukon chromoly rear shafts
  • redneck ram hydro assist
  • appropriate lift
  • ROCK HARD 4X4™ ALUMINUM COMPLETE BELLYPAN SKID PLATE SYSTEM
  • EDIT: Front axle truss
 
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jessedacri

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I think I'll order the JLR Monday and have northridge4x4 install
  • Toyo Tires 37X13.50R17LT, Open Country M/T -
  • FUEL- D695 COVERT 1PC Candy Red with Matte Black Ring
  • Warn 89120 ZEON 12 Winch with Wire Rope - 12000 lb
  • RCV PERFORMANCE ULTIMATE DANA 44 AXLE 300M CV front
  • RCV Ultimate 300M Dana 44 Rear Axle or Yukon chromoly rear shafts
  • redneck ram hydro assist
  • appropriate lift
  • ROCK HARD 4X4™ ALUMINUM COMPLETE BELLYPAN SKID PLATE SYSTEM
If you're keeping the front axle housing I would truss it. I'm currently replacing my JLR's front axle after a bend at the FAD unit in Moab and I'm only running 35s. Went with a spicer Ultimate D44 with 4.88s.

@Ryanfold bent his Rubicon front D44 in the same spot and just replaced as well - that FAD housing is a weak point even though the rest of the axle is sound.
 
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J0E

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If you're keeping the front axle housing I would truss it. I'm currently replacing my JLR's front axle after a bend at the FAD unit in Moab and I'm only running 35s. Went with a spicer Ultimate D44 with 4.88s.
Thanks. I edited my list above to include a truss. Do you have a favorite? How is the
JL/JT APEX Front Axle Truss

I originally planned on a JLR on 37's but after reading all the bent/broken axle stories decided to go the Dynatrac ProRock XD60/XD80 route.
 
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My wheelbase is like 104" and I've worked real hard to keep it low. What you describe is going to be very tall and tippy. Cool, but not sure I'd want to go crawling with you!
I'm back to JLR on 43's but I'll use ORI STX STRUT 16IN STROKE. I need this to reduce lift to zero + swap to factory tires/wheels to ship it to/from Maui each year. See
JLR or JLUR height on 37's - max allowed is 6'3" You worked hard to keep it low, me too, but height, not wheel base.

With the ORI's I can air up/down when necessary. For example, at the Moab hot tub, 14" lift in the rear, lowest in the front. Probably will skip that, but you get the idea. BTW, got the VON on my JLR.

From Pirate4x4 ORI's increased stability, ability to sidehill, and reduction of body lean over the Swaybar I was running. I now am able to be on steeper side angles with less body lean and keep the rig upright.
 
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mtnbiker73

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Our FAD snapped at 4,000 miles. First trip out. This was on 37s. I would highly recommend the XD60 axles to run this setup. We're in process of stretching our 2 door to 110"-112" wheelbase running 42" Treps, coilovers, and longarms. Have been running 40s on the stock wheelbase for a while now.
 
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Our FAD snapped at 4,000 miles. First trip out. This was on 37s. I would highly recommend the XD60 axles to run this setup. We're in process of stretching our 2 door to 110"-112" wheelbase running 42" Treps, coilovers, and longarms. Have been running 40s on the stock wheelbase for a while now.
I'm going with the Elite™ ProRock XD60®/80 axle, 72" wide with 5.86 gears and electric lockers.

Why coilovers vs ORI STX STRUT 16IN STROKE ?
 

40”JLURD

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Having read all the threads on JLRs on 37+, I've decide to follow the buy once, cry once philosophy and order a new JLR. I need 4:1 xfer case and white painted top. I'll have northridge4x4 build the JLR similar to the DYNATRAC CODE1 2018 JEEP WRANGLER JL BUILD. Here's the link to the 2018 Jeep Wrangler JL Sport Build Specs

Some differences:
  • MT 15/43-17LT Tire, Baja Pro XS - Tire is 42.5" x 18.3" wide. I want a wide tire for the sand in Maui & Big island. We don't often hit deep mud in Maui, mostly rock crawling. Summers will be in UT, MT, ID, CA, WA. Places like the Rubicon and Moab. Nitto mud grapplers do well in the sand here.
  • 5.86 differentials and electric lockers
  • ORI STX STRUT 16IN STROKE I need this to reduce lift to zero + swap to factory tires/wheels to ship it to/from Maui each year. See
    JLR or JLUR height on 37's - max allowed is 6'3"
  • Obviously 2 door. The JL's seem to dominate on Maui. JLUR's are very common as most of the car rental companies get them and sell off after a few years. Most Rubicons here never go off road.

    Ordered the JLR because I need 4:1 xfer case and white painted top.

Threads on 40" builds:
Too many JLUR builds adding truss + RCV to list. I can edit this list if folks want to read that approach.

Jared at dynatrac gave me his number but I wanted to run this by the forum and do some more homework before I call him. Looking for feedback but not interested in V8 (I'm not climbing any sand hills).
You’re going to have a helluva time fitting 43’s
 
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J0E

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You’re going to have a helluva time fitting 43’s
Ha, I'll probably end up with 42's then.

I'll have northridge4x4 build the JLR similar to the DYNATRAC CODE1 2018 JEEP WRANGLER JL BUILD. That's actually slightly taller but 3" narrower.


I like wide for the sand here.

I'll end up with 4 sets of wheels/tires:

  1. Shipping cheap skinny tires/wheels which will be mounted for shipping to/from mainland to Maui.
  2. 42 for Maui,
  3. 42 for the mainland
  4. 40's for the mainland. I want to go on some jeep jamboree trips and they only allow 40's and won't allow the spare to be 42. I can take the 42 spare back and forth, so at lest that will save one duplicate.
 
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Kreepin1

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I think you have a decent game plan. I have the ORI's on the rear of my CJ and love them.

The factory wheels will not work on the new axles, you need something with an 8-lug bolt pattern.
 

40”JLURD

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I think you have a decent game plan. I have the ORI's on the rear of my CJ and love them.

The factory wheels will not work on the new axles, you need something with an 8-lug bolt pattern.
Agreed. The @J0E is going to need some 8 lug skinnies instead of those stock wheels.

Maybe if he’s lucky he’ll be able to at least re use the stock tires on some new wheels... if it were me I’d just sell the Rubi take offs and buy the cheapest ugliest shit wheels which would work for shipping the Jeep & tires to match.

Especially since the OP is already going to be spending like $20k+++ on so many sets of wheels and tires.
 

Kreepin1

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Agreed. The @J0E is going to need some 8 lug skinnies instead of those stock wheels.

Maybe if he’s lucky he’ll be able to at least re use the stock tires on some new wheels... if it were me I’d just sell the Rubi take offs and buy the cheapest ugliest shit wheels which would work for shipping the Jeep & tires to match.

Especially since the OP is already going to be spending like $20k+++ on so many sets of wheels and tires.
Agreed. Doesn't Chevy still use a 8 on 6.5" bolt pattern on the 3/4 ton trucks? Maybe fine a set of those on Craigslist. I know Ford has gone metric.
 
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