2021 40” Rubicon Diesel Build

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40”JLURD

40”JLURD

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JFYI...the pumps aren't that much...it's a whole system. I carry a spare pump (on my non-PSC...old Station from Pirate) with me on the trail. I'll do the same with the new PSC on the new buggy....b/c it just makes sense to considering what it does.
By the way also I should have the lift and all that in before thanksgiving with any luck.

I’ve called PSC and they won’t have a kit ready till “early next year”. I did invest in their new JL power steering cooler kit though which should be here any day now. That should eliminate any potential PS fluid overheating problem with the stock steering (which these are prone to) out on the trail with the big meats.





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40”JLURD

40”JLURD

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JFYI...the pumps aren't that much...it's a whole system. I carry a spare pump (on my non-PSC...old Station from Pirate) with me on the trail. I'll do the same with the new PSC on the new buggy....b/c it just makes sense to considering what it does.
You must have no room for anything other than tools and spare parts in your rig?

You carry a spare PSC pump, spare axles (I assume at least 3, both fronts and a rear) probably some u-joints, driveshafts, tools to replace all that, where do you put the beer? Hahahaha

I know it’s good to be prepared but damn man, I’m not ready to buy two of everything and stuff them and my whole tool chest into the Jeep
 
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What exactly are you wanting to carry?

Don't carry rears in the buggy...they don't really break. I keep rears and spare links in the tow rig though. I do carry a spare driveshaft with extra long slip travel that will fit front or rear though. My 2 tool boxes, tool bag & electrical tool box are probably another 75 lbs with some recovery equipment, spare engine drive belts, spare steering rod ends, etc.....

I don't drink beer on the trail....but I do have a medium sized cooler for lunch and 2.5ish gallons of water/gatorade.

Redundancy is the name of the game...which is why I have OBA and an ARB compressor & a ready welder.

The new buggy will be more limited since when I built it for my friend, he didn't plan for all the shit I carry...but I'm pretty sure I've found a good way to get more fuel capacity and a LOT more storage space than what he originally planned.
This is going to be my daily driver / weekend rock crawler.

Let’s say the wife and I go on a trip wheeling out of town to Moab or the Rubicon trail for example and bring our two pugs. That leaves only the rear storage area with the dogs included. I would be hard pressed to fit camping equipment and a cooler and our clothes in the back as is.

If I put all those spare parts, tools, misc recovery equipment, etc in the back there would be literally no room for a cooler or our luggage or any camping gear and things of the nature.

So what I’m looking to carry would be bare minimum essentials which will still leave most of the cargo area open for cargo.

Once again think long weekend, possibly camping trip with the wife and 2 small dogs (and my wife does not have a rig of her own).
 

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How much crap do you need to camp? LOL

We put a crazy amount of stuff in the back even with our 2 dogs. Cooler, go bag, tools, spares, air comp. We have plenty more space. It's the whole reason we have a 4 door. :)
 
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How much crap do you need to camp? LOL

We put a crazy amount of stuff in the back even with our 2 dogs. Cooler, go bag, tools, spares, air comp. We have plenty more space. It's the whole reason we have a 4 door. :)
Well shit maybe we’ll be fine then! Haven’t done it yet, or really taken it anywhere so maybe I’m trippin. Used to only having cars and having to crazily Tetris all our shit in even for non camping weekend trips. My Jeep 20 years ago was a YJ & not exactly the most spacious on the inside either for cargo. I’m really looking forward to having a little more room in the JL

That’s why I got a 4 door too lol
 
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Jeep just got absolute top of the line nano-ceramic tint (15% all around and 80% on the windshield) and is getting Bodyfence PPF on everything painted Granite Crystal except the ass end (which is getting full aluminum corners from Next Venture Motorsports and a GenRight Aluminum swing out tire carrier with 40” tire in it.) So I’m pretty sure those things will keep the paint on the tailgate good without the PPF.

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Also I broke the motor in on a Dyno... it threw down over 550ft lb on the best run at the wheels on a mustang Dyno in 6th gear (1:1). Mustang Dynos typically feature a 20% drive train loss on all wheel drive or 4WD vehicles vs actual motor power at the crankshaft.

Here is a video of it throwing down 547 ft lb or torque peak at the rear wheels.

 
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So I have switched horses mid stream...

Going with UD60’s now...

I really wanted the Dynatrac axles but recently my builder has been having a lot of reliability issues with them. For example on his own personal rig which has the exact axle set I was going to get he has put 7,000 miles on the axles and he has had to replace the rear axle seals FIVE TIMES.

He has also had similar axle issues on a couple customer rigs, and therefore stopped recommending them for those reasons. I would loose my mind if that happened to me. You pay 20 G’s for an axle set and the fucking things won’t even hold oil and you have to change axle seals every 1,400 miles. FUCK THAT

That being said reliability is my utmost priory (whole point of getting new axles) so I ended up just going with the UD60’s
my heart wept reading $20k
 

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Also I broke the motor in on a Dyno... it threw down over 550ft lb on the best run at the wheels on a mustang Dyno in 6th gear (1:1). Mustang Dynos typically feature a 20% drive train loss on all wheel drive or 4WD vehicles vs actual motor power at the crankshaft.

Here is a video of it throwing down 547 ft lb or torque peak at the rear wheels.

Wow! Have you done any work to the engine, or are those stock numbers for the diesel?
 
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40”JLURD

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40”JLURD

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Wow! Have you done any work to the engine, or are those stock numbers for the diesel?
Looks like paying to rent the Dyno for 3 hours to break the motor in HARD worked out for me.

I taught that bitch who was daddy and she liked it... lol

Seriously tho, I picked it up from the stealership with 14 miles on it (14 horribly abused, no load with lots of idiling miles I assume) drove it like I stole it home and parked it. Didn’t drive it again till it was to World Motorsports to break in the engine. Also drove it like I stole it to there. Arrived with 25 miles on it.

Then proceeded to beat the living hell out of it... for hours loading the motor in both boost and vacuum... heavily in the boost... this is the result. Video was taken in last hour in the Dyno..

I burned 1/4 tank of DEF in the first 85 miles hahaha
 

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Probably everyone knows that the new AdvanTEK M210 & M220 Dana 44 axle housings in the JL are stronger than previous genergenerations were. So that’s my starting point.
tube strength goes up as the fourth power, and it is called Moment of Inertia, or Inertial Stiffness:
3.14159265 × (D4 - d4) ÷ 64
So, if the wall thickness of the tube remains the same, and assuming a ¼" wall thickness, the axle would be 46% stiffer.
 
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tube strength goes up as the fourth power, and it is called Moment of Inertia, or Inertial Stiffness:
3.14159265 × (D4 - d4) ÷ 64
So, if the wall thickness of the tube remains the same, and assuming a ¼" wall thickness, the axle would be 46% stiffer.
True

Somewhere along the lines I switched to Dana 60’s front and rear.

I have some factory Rubicon axles for sale if anyone is interested!
 

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