2021 40” Rubicon Diesel Build

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40”JLURD

40”JLURD

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Well, keep in mind the PSC will run $3500+ but I agree...don't do the Redneck Ram.

Another axle option is buy a RuffStuff, Spidertrax or Diamond housing and build a 609. You can then pick your center section and a Tru-Hi 9 isn't that much more expensive than gearing/locking a D60 center section anyway.

http://www.diamondaxle.com/front_steering.htm

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/AxleHousings.html

http://www.spidertrax.com/Ultimate-Housing


Personally, I do my own gear installs...but I've seen some real hack jobs from local installers, enough that I'd probably go with the mail order drop in 3rd b/c you're more likely to get a properly set up gear set that way...which makes these build your own housings kind of nice.

If you go this route, it would be wise to build to a width that will use factory length inners and stubs so if you're in the middle of nowhere and break a shaft, you may be able to get a factory shaft for a replacement (if you're on a trip and break two axles, using up your spares).
I’m liking this option a lot, thank you so much for the help on this post!
Really liking that Tru-Hi 9

I was already gonna spend about $5,600 on the factory axles + $800 to upgrade to 2.5 ton aluminum steering. That’s $6,400 right there + sell stock axles for $4k

Now the same budget is really $10,400 for axles without spending anymore!!! Fucking awesome!!!

The peace of mind having a much more bulletproof setup will be worth the few extra thousand upfront...

So here’s what I’m thinking now, that Tru-Hi 9 Front and rear with aftermarket housings like the one you posted Sean.

After adding steering, gears, ARB’s and Axle Shafts to that what else will be needed?

Brakes?

Im already planning to buy Tom Woods drive shafts so no extra expense there and I’ll be able to get a heavier duty one. Which I love.

My builder will already be installing all new brackets with the EVO Pro Long Arm Coilover kit so all the brackets will not be a big deal either.
 
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You're probably more like $12k after selling axles. Less after you consider what you're going to spend re-gearing etc.

Sorry but if you wheel a lot with 40's (i.e., you need 40's to get through the trail) you're gonna have a bad fuckin' time and then you can't even sell those axles after the fact for more than you would have just sold them to begin with. Just put 37's on it for now (and don't touch the axles) and buy axles when the budget allows.

Also I've literally watched an RCV break on the trail.
I’m not interested in wheeling it moderately. I want to where the flying F*CK out of it on hardcore trails, hit every obstacle and drive home 300 miles on the highway with my wife at the end of the day. No broken axle drama.

I also don’t really care for the look of the 37’s it’s alright but night and day to the 40’s.

So yeah ... Let’s build some wild custom shit guys lol. Guess I’ll be adding axles to the list of stock things I’m selling once I take delivery
 
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A pretty good driver and moderately built rubicon jlu on 37s can do trails rated up to 8/10. If you dont have the $ for d60s and want to run those trails, why not save the $5400 you would dump into stock d44s and roll with stock axles and 37s? I'd steer clear of running 40s on stock axles if $ is tight bc you're opening up a can of worms that will likely lead to hydro assist, upgrading brakes, ball joints, broken shafts, broken R&P + all the axle mods you listed. In the long run, I imagine you'll spend more dumping the $5400 into the stock axles and then going to d60s down the road and sell your modded d44 axles.

I was wheelin this week with my friend in a diesel jlu sport on stock d44s, 3.5" lift, 38s on beadlocks with no lockers. We did a few tougher lines that would prob be rated 6-7 and the diesel made it without lockers with sport t-case. I imagine it would have walked up if he was locked up and used more momentum He also ran Golden Spike, Hells Gate and Cliffhanger at Moab with this setup.
Very nice setup, to be fair I told my builder I wanted to run 40’s and he said I should go with the the 39” BFG’s which actually run 38.5”

This was the setup he suggested for the stock modded axles. Me being somewhat arrogant figured well fuck it what’s another 1.5” of tire, I’ll tell him just to throw the 40’s on anyway and maybe add some axle trusses to the mix.

Seems like my original thoughts were better on I needed a 1 ton swap if going to 40’s. I will not be dissuaded to 37” or 38” tires, mostly because I just really like how the 40’s look. I know a ton of hardcore trails can be run on 37’s (probably almost every trail if your a bad ass driver) but they just look a bit too small on the new JLU to me.

So that’s it fuckit -Go big or go home.

Axle swap 100% happening now
 

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Very nice setup, to be fair I told my builder I wanted to run 40’s and he said I should go with the the 39” BFG’s which actually run 38.5”

This was the setup he suggested for the stock modded axles. Me being somewhat arrogant figured well fuck it what’s another 1.5” of tire, I’ll tell him just to throw the 40’s on anyway and maybe add some axle trusses to the mix.

Seems like my original thoughts were better on I needed a 1 ton swap if going to 40’s. I will not be dissuaded to 37” or 38” tires, mostly because I just really like how the 40’s look. I know a ton of hardcore trails can be run on 37’s (probably almost every trail if your a bad ass driver) but they just look a bit too small on the new JLU to me.

So that’s it fuckit -Go big or go home.

Axle swap 100% happening now
On that same trip, we also had a jlu on 40" stt pros and it does look good and climbs like a champ. He's running chromoly shafts in rear and RCV's up front.
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On that same trip, we also had a jlu on 40" stt pros and it does look good and climbs like a champ. He's running chromoly shafts in rear and RCV's up front.
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IMG_6638.jpg
Looks great! Same setup I was thinking of running that everyone is suggesting against minus axle trusses and inner c gussets.

Still though I do want the peace of mind a swap would offer
 
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Your builder is right...if you're talking 39" Reds. There is no better tire in terms of traction other than arguably the 42" reds.

And if they were reds...you'd need D60s. They are stickies after all. But if you were looking at reds, you'd also be looking at trailering it everywhere b/c they'd be bald in 2500 miles.
He was saying the KM3 39”

Not the competition Krawler, although the KM3 looks damn near identical.

The 40” Yokohama X MT I want is only 5 pound per tire heavier and would be on the same 43 pound KMC wheel.

You guys seriously think 38.5” is cool, but 40” (at 5 pounds heavier) is a total no go and requires 1 ton axle swap? For 5 more pounds???
 

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Looks great! Same setup I was thinking of running that everyone is suggesting against minus axle trusses and inner c gussets.

Still though I do want the peace of mind a swap would offer
He's going to 5.13 gears and is going to ride the stock axles...we shall see how it goes.
 

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I’m not interested in wheeling it moderately. I want to where the flying F*CK out of it on hardcore trails, hit every obstacle and drive home 300 miles on the highway with my wife at the end of the day. No broken axle drama.

I also don’t really care for the look of the 37’s it’s alright but night and day to the 40’s.

So yeah ... Let’s build some wild custom shit guys lol. Guess I’ll be adding axles to the list of stock things I’m selling once I take delivery
You will still be able to break 60's on 40's, just keep that in mind -- if you wheel hard. I'd actually do 70's but that's me.
 

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You guys seriously think 38.5” is cool, but 40” (at 5 pounds heavier) is a total no go and requires 1 ton axle swap? For 5 more pounds???

I'm a firm believer 37's is cool. Anything bigger needs an axle swap.

All the D44believers said the same thing... 40's are fine. Most of them have swapped axles after breaking them.
 
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I'm a firm believer 37's is cool. Anything bigger needs an axle swap.

All the D44believers said the same thing... 40's are fine. Most of them have swapped axles after breaking them.
LOL

Literally laughed out loud
 

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He was saying the KM3 39”

Not the competition Krawler, although the KM3 looks damn near identical.

The 40” Yokohama X MT I want is only 5 pound per tire heavier and would be on the same 43 pound KMC wheel.

You guys seriously think 38.5” is cool, but 40” (at 5 pounds heavier) is a total no go and requires 1 ton axle swap? For 5 more pounds???
My buddy on 40s ran the yokohama x-mt before the stt pros. He prefers the stt pro on road and wheelin. Ive seen reports of the x-mt chunking alot in the rocks.
 
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My buddy on 40s ran the yokohama x-mt before the stt pros. He prefers the stt pro on road and wheelin. Ive seen reports of the x-mt chunking alot in the rocks.
I’ll have to check those out thanks for the heads up
 

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He was saying the KM3 39”

Not the competition Krawler, although the KM3 looks damn near identical.

The 40” Yokohama X MT I want is only 5 pound per tire heavier and would be on the same 43 pound KMC wheel.

You guys seriously think 38.5” is cool, but 40” (at 5 pounds heavier) is a total no go and requires 1 ton axle swap? For 5 more pounds???
There's more variables than weight but yes, heavy 38's are probably going to give you trouble in that scenario too. More contact patch means more opportunities to bind. If you run super sticky tires... even more so.

My overall advice though : do it once. Spend the money, but wait until you have it to do it right. Ask me how I know. XD.

I have broken Dana 44's, AND Dana 60's AND Dana 70's. I have broken ring gears, I have watched RCV's break, I have broken axle shafts, I have broken lockers... list goes on.

And yes, 40's look way better than 37's. If I had a diesel, I'd run 40's no question on D70 rear D60 front. I'm waiting for the refresh (maybe '22-'23 MY?) though for that. For now though, I run my JK through all the hard shit and I DD my JL/run it on mild trails.
 
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There's more variables than weight but yes, heavy 38's are probably going to give you trouble in that scenario too. More contact patch means more opportunities to bind. If you run super sticky tires... even more so.

My overall advice though : do it once. Spend the money, but wait until you have it to do it right. Ask me how I know. XD.

I have broken Dana 44's, AND Dana 60's AND Dana 70's. I have broken ring gears, I have watched RCV's break, I have broken axle shafts, I have broken lockers... list goes on.
Spoken like someone who knows exactly what they are talking about.

I was thinking the same thing, do it right one time the first time. I do not want to play the break it and upgrade game.

Also doing it right the first time is cheaper in the long run. I’ve done the math on putting this thing on 37” tires basically stock and slowly upgrading to the 40”.

Its quite a waste of money to do it that way if it’s not what you want. By my numbers I would’ve wasted about $6k not including an axle swap if I went that route.

So now I am back to doing the axle swap upfront. Which totally changes a lot of stuff on my build sheet lol
 

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