2020 Rubicon build questions

[Pass]

Hello, all! New to the forums (though I have been browsing for the last couple of weeks... just joined).

I am heavily considering trading in my F150 (Ford is pissing me off) for a nice shiny new 2020 Rubicon. However, the JL steering issues have me a bit concerned, and is the primary cause of my holding back at the moment. I'm new to Jeeps, but I've always wanted one... and now that the wife has a kid crawler, I'm free to get what I want.

With that in mind, should I get this JL, I want to make it right right out of the gate so that I can enjoy it. Which brings me to the reason for this post. I've done a bit of research, but frankly, I could use the knowledge of the folks here.

First: Lift. I'd like to get it an inch or two taller (for ride height) and rolling 35s. I'm torn between going MOPAR 2" or the RK 2.5" x-factor no limits mid arm. The MOPAR is cheaper and fox shocks are usually good... but the RK is higher quality (I think), gets me a bit taller, and I've read a lot of good things about them here. I don't know how the shocks feel, though.
Tires: K/O 2s? (pretty sure I can run those on stock rims wheels??)

Second: Steering. Steer Smarts: Yeti XD Tie rod, Yeti XD draglink w/ attenuator, Yeti adjustable front trackbar (unless I use the KR kit which comes with one), Yeti steering stabilizer.

Will all of this work together properly? Will it solve the issues? Am I forgetting anything?

It is likely complete overkill for my purposes, as I doubt that I will be doing any serious off roading. Mostly daily driver and some light trails or a bit of rough terrain.

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[Headbarcode]

Welcome to the site, and possibly to the community!

Have you gone on any test drives to get a feel of things? Also, the Rubicon can run 35's on stock wheels and without any steering and suspension changes. Given your intended purposes, you could save a lot of $.

Edit to add: First things first. Go on a bunch of test drives at multiple dealers, with the focus on which flavor of engine feels better to you. Stick with only Rubicon's in your back to back engine comparisons, because the gearing is different on the other models and will throw off the whole apples to apples thing.

Good luck and have fun!

 

[Pass]

Welcome to the site, and possibly to the community!

Have you gone on any test drives to get a feel of things? Also, the Rubicon can run 35's on stock wheels and without any steering and suspension changes. Given your intended purposes, you could save a lot of $.

Edit to add: First things first. Go on a bunch of test drives at multiple dealers, with the focus on which flavor of engine feels better to you. Stick with only Rubicon's in your back to back engine comparisons, because the gearing is different on the other models and will throw off the whole apples to apples thing.

Good luck and have fun!

I have been on one test drive (the usual dinky 2mi thing that dealers like to do). I prefer the V6 as opposed to the i4 turbo. My reasoning for lift is simply ride height. I prefer to be up a bit more than stock offers. The steering changes are to correct the issues with JL steering as well as correct for the suspension changes.

I'm probably way overdoing it... lol. One thing that I know I'll do is test drive (extensively) whatever Jeep I decide to actually buy before I take delivery of it.

 

[word302]

Hello, all! New to the forums (though I have been browsing for the last couple of weeks... just joined).

I am heavily considering trading in my F150 (Ford is pissing me off) for a nice shiny new 2020 Rubicon. However, the JL steering issues have me a bit concerned, and is the primary cause of my holding back at the moment. I'm new to Jeeps, but I've always wanted one... and now that the wife has a kid crawler, I'm free to get what I want.

With that in mind, should I get this JL, I want to make it right right out of the gate so that I can enjoy it. Which brings me to the reason for this post. I've done a bit of research, but frankly, I could use the knowledge of the folks here.

First: Lift. I'd like to get it an inch or two taller (for ride height) and rolling 35s. I'm torn between going MOPAR 2" or the RK 2.5" x-factor no limits mid arm. The MOPAR is cheaper and fox shocks are usually good... but the RK is higher quality (I think), gets me a bit taller, and I've read a lot of good things about them here. I don't know how the shocks feel, though.
Tires: K/O 2s? (pretty sure I can run those on stock rims wheels??)

Second: Steering. Steer Smarts: Yeti XD Tie rod, Yeti XD draglink w/ attenuator, Yeti adjustable front trackbar (unless I use the KR kit which comes with one), Yeti steering stabilizer.

Will all of this work together properly? Will it solve the issues? Am I forgetting anything?

It is likely complete overkill for my purposes, as I doubt that I will be doing any serious off roading. Mostly daily driver and some light trails or a bit of rough terrain.

Go with the RK kit (or Metalcloak), skip the attenuator.

 

[2Wheel-Lee]

I have a 2020 Rubicon. I picked it up in Idaho, and immediately drove it home to Southern California. Upon the test-drive I noticed the steering was a bit "flighty." This was somewhat expected, since I know dealers often don't lower the tire pressures at PDI (the tires are overfilled at the factory to reduce flat-spotting). Knowing this, I brought my tire gauge. After buying it, 20 miles down the highway, I pulled over and lower the tire pressure from 43 to 37 (yeah, I know, warm pressure). It drove so much better! Remember tire pressures when you go for a test-drive.

Though, I can't leave a good thing alone. I installed an EVO 3.5" lift. I installed the Steer Smarts drag link and track bar. Though I have their tie rod, I haven't installed it yet.

The day after I installed the lift, I noticed it drove very well, but there was a slight bit of chatter in the steering wheel. Really, it was acceptable. When I got to work, I printed out the Tazer manual. In the middle of my drive home, I stopped to install the Tazer and set the tire size (37s). To my initial surprise, the steering chatter went away. I'm guessing the electronic power steering pump must vary pressure based on speed, so this does make sense. So there is real value in changing the tire size programming.

My only regret...I should have gone 40s. I was concerned about the drive ability with 37s (I've had a lot of lifted vehicles with larger tires). The drive ability is so good, I could have sacrificed some going with 40s.

I won't get into the engine debate, but I got the 2.0...it's so much fun to drive! It rips! And like so many people have posted, thanks to the 8-speed transmission, it turns those 37s like they're stock sized tires.

 

[Headbarcode]

I have been on one test drive (the usual dinky 2mi thing that dealers like to do). I prefer the V6 as opposed to the i4 turbo. My reasoning for lift is simply ride height. I prefer to be up a bit more than stock offers. The steering changes are to correct the issues with JL steering as well as correct for the suspension changes.

I'm probably way overdoing it... lol. One thing that I know I'll do is test drive (extensively) whatever Jeep I decide to actually buy before I take delivery of it.

If your goal is to end up with as good as stock, or even better, than there's no such thing as overdoing it.

My personal goal is minimal lift to accommodate 37 x 12.5 ko2's that don't rub at full flex off road. I chose the Dynatrac Endurosport 2" lift because its Fox shocks are specifically tuned to its springs for enhanced on road handling on top of increased off road capability. Its also one of the only true 2" lifts that won't give more than advertised. Like you, I need/want more height but don't want too high of a center of gravity.

That lift is advertised as a beginner kit that doesn't go high enough to require any additional parts. That everything will still be within factory specs.

Longevity is what I'm shooting for, and I believe a bit of overkill will help get there. To beef up against the increased forces brought on by larger tires and lift height, I'm upgrading the rest of the suspension and the steering linkages.

Synergy 8 control arm kit
Synergy rear track bar and bracket
Yeti front track bar
Yeti long tie rod
Yeti bottom mount drag link
Yeti stabilizer relocation bracket
Fox TS stabilizer

 

[Pass]

Welcome to the forum. You sound like you got a good handle on it, I would recommend the rubicon even if you think it’s overkill. A lot of times, people don’t think they’re going to do as much as they end up doing, lol. For me personally, I like the look and all that it gives you, needed or not. If you really want a Jeep, don’t let the steering issues scare you off, they can be fixed, if there’s any to begin with. When you compare how many have the problem to the ones that don’t, it’s a small percentage.......

Does anyone have the actual percentages? That also seems odd given that I think the folks here have diagnosed it pretty well... hollow cheap trackbar and steer box.

Go with the RK kit (or Metalcloak), skip the attenuator.

Any particular reason to skip the attenuator? Just not needed? The SS stabilizer says it was designed to work with the attenuator... Would I be best served getting the Fox stabilizer at that point?

 

[word302]

Does anyone have the actual percentages? That also seems odd given that I think the folks here have diagnosed it pretty well... hollow cheap trackbar and steer box.



Any particular reason to skip the attenuator? Just not needed? The SS stabilizer says it was designed to work with the attenuator... Would I be best served getting the Fox stabilizer at that point?

The Fox stabilizer is great. The attenuator is just another part to wear out and is completely unnecessary.

 

[Pass]

I have a 2020 Rubicon. I picked it up in Idaho, and immediately drove it home to Southern California. Upon the test-drive I noticed the steering was a bit "flighty." This was somewhat expected, since I know dealers often don't lower the tire pressures at PDI (the tires are overfilled at the factory to reduce flat-spotting). Knowing this, I brought my tire gauge. After buying it, 20 miles down the highway, I pulled over and lower the tire pressure from 43 to 37 (yeah, I know, warm pressure). It drove so much better! Remember tire pressures when you go for a test-drive.

Though, I can't leave a good thing alone. I installed an EVO 3.5" lift. I installed the Steer Smarts drag link and track bar. Though I have their tie rod, I haven't installed it yet.

The day after I installed the lift, I noticed it drove very well, but there was a slight bit of chatter in the steering wheel. Really, it was acceptable. When I got to work, I printed out the Tazer manual. In the middle of my drive home, I stopped to install the Tazer and set the tire size (37s). To my initial surprise, the steering chatter went away. I'm guessing the electronic power steering pump must vary pressure based on speed, so this does make sense. So there is real value in changing the tire size programming.

My only regret...I should have gone 40s. I was concerned about the drive ability with 37s (I've had a lot of lifted vehicles with larger tires). The drive ability is so good, I could have sacrificed some going with 40s.

I won't get into the engine debate, but I got the 2.0...it's so much fun to drive! It rips! And like so many people have posted, thanks to the 8-speed transmission, it turns those 37s like they're stock sized tires.

The i4 Turbo felt like the torque didn't really kick in until much higher RPMs than the V6, which is the turn off for me. I have the V6 turbo in my truck and love it (especially when "sport" tuned)... but when I tried out the i4 Turbo it didn't feel like the torque was there until it suddenly was after the turbo kicked in. Granted... my experience was limited.

If your goal is to end up with as good as stock, or even better, than there's no such thing as overdoing it.

My personal goal is minimal lift to accommodate 37 x 12.5 ko2's that don't rub at full flex off road. I chose the Dynatrac Endurosport 2" lift because its Fox shocks are specifically tuned to its springs for enhanced on road handling on top of increased off road capability. Its also one of the only true 2" lifts that won't give more than advertised. Like you, I need/want more height but don't want too high of a center of gravity.

That lift is advertised as a beginner kit that doesn't go high enough to require any additional parts. That everything will still be within factory specs.

Longevity is what I'm shooting for, and I believe a bit of overkill will help get there. To beef up against the increased forces brought on by larger tires and lift height, I'm upgrading the rest of the suspension and the steering linkages.

Synergy 8 control arm kit
Synergy rear track bar and bracket
Yeti front track bar
Yeti long tie rod
Yeti bottom mount drag link
Yeti stabilizer relocation bracket
Fox TS stabilizer

I haven't looked into that lift. I'll have to take a peak. I would probably still make sure that my geometry was correct after even a 2" lift. Did the Yeti gear fix the steering and wander issues for you? Or did you never experience any?

 

[Headbarcode]

The i4 Turbo felt like the torque didn't really kick in until much higher RPMs than the V6, which is the turn off for me. I have the V6 turbo in my truck and love it (especially when "sport" tuned)... but when I tried out the i4 Turbo it didn't feel like the torque was there until it suddenly was after the turbo kicked in. Granted... my experience was limited.



I haven't looked into that lift. I'll have to take a peak. I would probably still make sure that my geometry was correct after even a 2" lift. Did the Yeti gear fix the steering and wander issues for you? Or did you never experience any?

Knock on wood, my 19 JLUR has been overall fantastic in all regards. As far as the undercarriage, I'm still stock other than the 35's. The lift has been in my dining room for about a month now and the rest of the list above is starting to show up. Once brown santa finishes my early xmas, I'll set aside a long day to install everything.

 

[Pass]

So the dealer let me take a 2020 Rubicon for the day to drive it around. So far so good. I got it on the interstate for about 4miles and noticed no real wandering outside of what I would expect on a solid axel vehicle. It does tend to pull right a tad... but really nothing too bad so far. No death wobble. I got it up to 35-45mph on a rough-ish road to see if it would do it and it hasn't yet. Steering doesn't seem overly loose thus far. It does have a touch of play in it. I'll measure it and give feedback... but thus far it seems pretty good.

This vehicle has an 8/19 build date. If you're curious about the parts or want me to test anything out and give you feedback let me know... I have the vehicle until noon tomorrow.

(also posted this in the trouble section - steering main thread) I figure now is the time to test the hell out of it.

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