2020 2dr Rubicon Build - Moab or BUST

Creeker

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You have one sweet rig!
Really like what you have done.
Can you provide more information on decision to replace the factory driveshafts (thinking about doing the same).





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Hudson

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Love this build. I have the Stage 1 lift kit in my garage waiting for a free weekend. Did you get the Synergy sector shaft brace?
 

Krondor

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Love this build. I have the Stage 1 lift kit in my garage waiting for a free weekend. Did you get the Synergy sector shaft brace?
I didn't see steering bits added yet. I went to Steer Smarts on the recommendation of my shop, but am interested to see if the stock bits will hold up or are you going with Synergy bits right away?
 
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t0mills

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Man on a mission. lol

Great build and I'm interested in your review of the shocks. I am enjoying my current setup but feel like I'd like the adjustability to stiffen up for street duty. Also, I was looking at 4.88's to be a bit deeper than the math would suggest for 35's. Are you worried about the strength going all the way to 5.38's? How's the RPM's at 80? This motor does like to spin up, so I imagine you are doing just fine. Look forward to more reviews as you go.

:beer:

I think the shocks are great, but don't have anything to compare them other than the stock shocks. If anything, I feel they could be valved a little softer. But keep in mind, I prefer a really soft shock which is why I was scared to go with a falcon or something like that. I also realize these shocks (and most others out there) are valved to handle a JLU, so anything is going to be firmer on a 2dr jeep.
IF I had it to do over again, I'd order them from Accutune and send them my vehicle corner weights and let them setup the valving.
Right now I'm running 1 click on all of the shock settings, so custom valving would allow for some more soft-adjustment (I think that's how it would work anyway...)

No worries about gear strength. These gears are ginormous compared to a JK 44 axle. And the fact that you mention running at 80mph is reason enough for you to go with 4.88 gears, especially if you have the 8spd auto. For me and my terrain/driving style, the 5.38s are perfect. But, my jeep will never see more than 65-70mph unless it's on a trailer.
I do agree that this 3.6 engine likes to spin up. 70mph on the highway is about 2600rpm and it feels effortless (exhaust is very quiet, even with muffler delete). I reset my fuel meter before running on the interstate and was seeing 18.5mpg @ 70mph. FYI
 
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t0mills

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You have one sweet rig!
Really like what you have done.
Can you provide more information on decision to replace the factory driveshafts (thinking about doing the same).
My reasoning all revolves around the manual transmission. More shock load is transmitted to the drivetrain than with an automatic trans. Have read some stories about the front drive shaft having issues with a lot of suspension articulation too.
 
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t0mills

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I didn't see steering bits added yet. I went to Steer Smarts on the recommendation of my shop, but am interested to see if the stock bits will hold up or are you going with Synergy bits right away?

Love this build. I have the Stage 1 lift kit in my garage waiting for a free weekend. Did you get the Synergy sector shaft brace?

I did not go with a sector shaft brace. I do see that they offer a nut to fit the big bore PSC box now, but in my opinion it's not necessary with hydro assist.
The hydraulic cylinder connected from axle housing to tie rod takes nearly ALL the load off of the steering box. Same for the track bar. Since you're no longer pushing from frame to axle (draglink), there's no opposite reaction on the track bar.
 

Krondor

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I did not go with a sector shaft brace. I do see that they offer a nut to fit the big bore PSC box now, but in my opinion it's not necessary with hydro assist.
The hydraulic cylinder connected from axle housing to tie rod takes nearly ALL the load off of the steering box. Same for the track bar. Since you're no longer pushing from frame to axle (draglink), there's no opposite reaction on the track bar.
True enough, I see that now. Hydro assist out of the gate? Impressive. I'm hoping to get that eventually.

I got the brace and while it made a difference, it's real purpose is piece of mind.
 

JoshuaaT

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Man on a mission. lol

Great build and I'm interested in your review of the shocks. I am enjoying my current setup but feel like I'd like the adjustability to stiffen up for street duty. Also, I was looking at 4.88's to be a bit deeper than the math would suggest for 35's. Are you worried about the strength going all the way to 5.38's? How's the RPM's at 80? This motor does like to spin up, so I imagine you are doing just fine. Look forward to more reviews as you go.

:beer:
Here’s a spreadsheet if you want to play around with gear ratios for the automatic or manual!
 

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Krondor

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Here’s a spreadsheet if you want to play around with gear ratios for the automatic or manual!
This still makes me think I'm going to be happy with 4.88's on my 34.4" tires. If I were tempted by the 37's, it may be better to go with the 5.38's but aren't they much weaker than the 4.88's?
 

JoshuaaT

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This still makes me think I'm going to be happy with 4.88's on my 34.4" tires. If I were tempted by the 37's, it may be better to go with the 5.38's but aren't they much weaker than the 4.88's?
Higher gear ratios will inherently have higher surface and bending stresses. How much? Your guess is probably as good as mine since manufacturers don’t release CAD data or dimensions on gears.

I would guess that we would be more likely to break a stock axle shaft or u-joint/yoke before stripping a pinion gear for either set of gears!
 

Hudson

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I didn't see steering bits added yet. I went to Steer Smarts on the recommendation of my shop, but am interested to see if the stock bits will hold up or are you going with Synergy bits right away?
I just pulled the trigger on Synergy's HD steering kit (with relocation bracket and Fox IPF stabilizer), to add to the Stage 1 lift. I also added an adj. rear track bar and front sway bar links too. That leaves me with only the upper front control arms, and rear upper/lower control arms to add if and when.
 

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@t0mills have you had much gear loading down the cargo area while wheeling yet? How heavy do you think it'll take before sagging down? I wonder if I just got a pair of adjustable shocks like yours for the rear, I could dial in firmness for camping/towing, then soften them up again when driving around light. Or would that even affect sag, stiffer springs is what's needed. I know fug-all about these systems..
 

Dasher320

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Front axle went a lot quicker. Tossed in some RCV shafts (one-piece passenger side) and a FAD block-off plate. The RCV axle tube seals are worth the price. They seal up really well.
I installed RCV axle shafts this weekend before knowing what an axle shaft seal is. So now I am thinking I should probably add them. Their website says they won’t fit over the inner side of the shaft, but it looks like you installed the seals and slid the shaft through. Is that possible? I want to buy these, but I don’t want to take the CV off the shaft to do it.
 

SGT4774

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Awesome build. I have enjoyed watching the transformation. I have been waiting to see what you have planned for rock sliders. MOAB will destroy those Rubi rails in the first 1/2 hour. Stay safe!!
 

MarkY3130

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I installed RCV axle shafts this weekend before knowing what an axle shaft seal is. So now I am thinking I should probably add them. Their website says they won’t fit over the inner side of the shaft, but it looks like you installed the seals and slid the shaft through. Is that possible? I want to buy these, but I don’t want to take the CV off the shaft to do it.
Im not sure the answer but I noticed that exact thing in his pictures. I did the rcv’s and tube seals at the same time and I made sure to put the tube seal on the shaft before connecting the CV. This made the tube seal install into the tube much more difficult but I previously thought that was how it had to happen.
 

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