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2019 eTorques not selling

viper88

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Love mine. I had a 3.6 JL loaner while I was having a speaker replaced... I hate that engine now. I thought it was the greatest thing since the 4.0 when I had one. Now, not so much.
I recently tried a 3.6 also.

I actually like the eTorque. I prefer the eTorque even though it has some extra complexities. I trust the eToque system more then the 3.6ESS battery. I think the 3.6 ESS battery/charing system is more prone to failure and leaving someone stranded then a eTorque failure.

I used to own a '15 JK with a 3.6. Currently I own a '19 JLR 2.0 eTorque. My friend with a '18 3.6 ESS JLUR and I switched for a day a few weeks ago for kicks. One thing to also note, I own a 2-door and my friend's Rubicon is a 4-door so there might be little disparity in weight and feel?

The 3.6 is a nice motor. I forgot how quiet it was. The 3.6 is a "little" quieter-smoother and has a more liner power delivery. The 3.6 ESS pretty much negates the smoothness if you don't turn it off. I did not like the 3.6 ESS at all. Turning-OFF the ESS is easy enough though. I could easily own another 3.6 but would turn-off the ESS or consider one with eTorque. As good as the 3.6 is, I missed my 2.0T.

In my opinion, I feel my 2.0T eTorque has a much better start-stop. I don't mind it at all and have no issues leaving it on the default setting. The eTorque definitely helps smooth out the off the line acceleration. The engine-start seems more seamless when you lift off the brake. I also missed the extra torque of the 2.0T. The 2.0 is more fun to drive. I would never use the word "agile" to describe anything about a Wrangler but the 2.0T feels more agile compared to the 3.6 to me. It feels like it takes less effort to get moving on on-ramps and while passing. It feels more "spirited or sporty" for a lack of better words. Other words I would never use to describe a Wrangler. lol. Maybe I would use "sporty" in a outdoorsy way but usually not in a agile way. lol. The extra torque helps hides the weight of the JL. lol.

Bottom lineā€¦I trust the ESS battery and charging system less then the eTorque. I would order the eTorque with either the 2.0 or 3.6. I'd also like to try a diesel for kicks even though my driving habits are not ideal for it. The monster torque seems like it would be fun.
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JeepRAD

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Love my 2.0L. I had 2 other jeeps with the 3.6L, My last V6, was a 2017 Recon, and with less than 400 miles developed a loud tick! It was the lifter that needed to be replaced. Isolated I am sure, but after test driving a 2.0L, the decision was easy!
 

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DadJokes

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JeepRAD

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My 19' Rubi 2.0L engine is made in the US. Its a later 19 build.
 

cbrenthus

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Got a link?
Disable ESS: Smart Start Stop / JL Tazer / etc can disable the ESS permanently - I have a Smart Start Stop on my wife's Pacifica and she loves no longer having to hit the button, it remembers the last setting so you don't have to press it every time you start the vehicle.

Aux Battery removal: you can either unplug the PCR (a couple minute job to crawl under the passenger fender, reach up, and unplug) or you can install a jumper in the fuse block between 2 terminals. Then you can disconnect the Aux negative to remove it from the system, or remove the whole battery. This results in the vehicle running off the main battery 100% of the time with no errors.

If you do both of the above, you will be running a vehicle with a single battery and no ESS, and no error messages.

If you want to accomplish the above cheaply and easily, and don't mind an error message and light, just disconnect the negative terminal for the Aux battery. I'm currently running that way - every time I start, I get an error saying to service the ESS system, and after it goes away I have a yellow light on my dash that looks like an at sign - @

Plenty of info on this in this forum, the ESS battery consolidated thread is a good start.
 

DadJokes

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Disable ESS: Smart Start Stop / JL Tazer / etc can disable the ESS permanently - I have a Smart Start Stop on my wife's Pacifica and she loves no longer having to hit the button, it remembers the last setting so you don't have to press it every time you start the vehicle.

Aux Battery removal: you can either unplug the PCR (a couple minute job to crawl under the passenger fender, reach up, and unplug) or you can install a jumper in the fuse block between 2 terminals. Then you can disconnect the Aux negative to remove it from the system, or remove the whole battery. This results in the vehicle running off the main battery 100% of the time with no errors.

If you do both of the above, you will be running a vehicle with a single battery and no ESS, and no error messages.

If you want to accomplish the above cheaply and easily, and don't mind an error message and light, just disconnect the negative terminal for the Aux battery. I'm currently running that way - every time I start, I get an error saying to service the ESS system, and after it goes away I have a yellow light on my dash that looks like an at sign - @

Plenty of info on this in this forum, the ESS battery consolidated thread is a good start.
Solid info.

I have the same thing in my Alfa as the regular ESS vehicles, 2.0 and 3.6. In my experience itā€™s shit compared to the BSG... and the BSG helps save on brake pad wear and valve carbon on the DI 2.0 by reducing idle time. Until they get a port injector on all DIā€™s or some other mitigation, itā€™s a good work around outside of an Italian tuneup.
 

DadJokes

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AnnDee4444

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What doesnā€™t work?
I think BigGreen was referring to the Italian tune-up on a DI motor. From what I have read though, the Italian tune-up doesn't specifically target carbon on the valves, rather it is about carbon in the combustion chamber and on the spark plugs.

Either way, for me: Italian Motor = Italian tune-up*

*although I did melt the ring lands off of my Vespa's piston with this method...
 

DadJokes

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I think BigGreen was referring to the Italian tune-up on a DI motor. From what I have read though, the Italian tune-up doesn't specifically target carbon on the valves, rather it is about carbon in the combustion chamber and on the spark plugs.

Either way, for me: Italian Motor = Italian tune-up*

*although I did melt the ring lands off of my Vespa's piston with this method...
So literal. lol

Nobody I worked with ever tore an engine down to do a before and after visual inspection after an ā€œItalianā€ tuneup, much less on a DI has engine but itā€™s one of those things thatā€™s done thinking it should help. Kind of like putting around will load valves up with more carbon than one that is driven spiritedly. Hotter intake valves will tend to release more carbon and get less carbon buildup on the port side than a cooler valve from an engine that is driven at low rpm and load most of the time.

Itā€™s just a desperate attempt to try to mitigate buildup, whether it helps significantly or not.

And if it wasnā€™t clear for him, there are manufacturers that concurrently have both DI and a small port injector so fuel with detergent actually hits the back of the intake valves, like on the 18+ Ford Ecoboost 3.5.
 
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Karl_in_Chicago

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I think BigGreen was referring to the Italian tune-up on a DI motor. From what I have read though, the Italian tune-up doesn't specifically target carbon on the valves, rather it is about carbon in the combustion chamber and on the spark plugs.

Either way, for me: Italian Motor = Italian tune-up*

*although I did melt the ring lands off of my Vespa's piston with this method...
There's carbon on the valves!
 

AnnDee4444

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So literal. lol
Don't get the Italian tune-up confused with the Mexican tune-up either. I think this only works on engines with smaller carburetors:
  1. Remove air cleaner
  2. run engine at 3000-4000 RPM
  3. place hand over carburetor, which will create a strong vacuum.
  4. right before the engine dies, remove hand
  5. repeat steps 2-4 until satisfied
I have done this on air-cooled VWs, and it works great.
 

viper88

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Don't get the Italian tune-up confused with the Mexican tune-up either. I think this only works on engines with smaller carburetors:
  1. Remove air cleaner
  2. run engine at 3000-4000 RPM
  3. place hand over carburetor, which will create a strong vacuum.
  4. right before the engine dies, remove hand
  5. repeat steps 2-4 until satisfied
I have done this on air-cooled VWs, and it works great.
I remember articles in some old car magazines. They recommended pouring water into the the carb while engine was running to steam clean intakes. Kind of like a steam injection? lol. I believe Sea Foam is the preferred cleanser over water today.
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