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2018 Sahara - Tire Upsize / ? Lift Kit

Dkretden

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you May wish to look on this board. Something like this:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/complete-rubicon-take-off-suspension.61497/

others will be able to help you regarding installation.

my advice would be to simply get the 17” rims and new 285 treads. If your daughter goes offroad or finds some rubbing while on road..... (many suggest that she won’t), look to getting a rubi suspension.
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DadJokes

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Pretty easy but you’ll need a floor Jack and Jack stands that go high enough, over 21” if I recall correctly.... anyone? I’d find the pdf instructions for the Mopar 2” lift kit and follow those. You will need a torque wrench that goes to 190 ft lbs(or use the factory tightening procedure which is around here somewhere of X many ft lbs + so many degrees of bolt head rotation.) and I found the Kobalt brand 650 ft lb battery powered impact great for removing bolts and also rotating the bolts the required degrees of rotation. I marked the starting and ending point I needed to reach with a yellow paint pen and made a stencil of the degrees to place over the bolt head. All control arms “should” be loosened and re-torqued so the bushings are not in a bind for best bushing life and performance.

It’s doable taking your time in a day or less. Some can do it in a couple of hours but not me. I triple check everything and I hadn’t done a lift before. This is as easy as it gets though whatever lift you choose!

Also, my daughter helped as it was an opportunity to help her start to get familiar with vehicles to try to help her be more self reliant and less naive if she needs relevant car work done down the road.
 
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ahole4sure

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ahole4sure

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Pretty easy but you’ll need a floor Jack and Jack stands that go high enough, over 21” if I recall correctly.... anyone? I’d find the pdf instructions for the Mopar 2” lift kit and follow those. You will need a torque wrench that goes to 190 ft lbs(or use the factory tightening procedure which is around here somewhere of X many ft lbs + so many degrees of bolt head rotation.) and I found the Kobalt brand 650 ft lb battery powered impact great for removing bolts and also rotating the bolts the required degrees of rotation. I marked the starting and ending point I needed to reach with a yellow paint pen and made a stencil of the degrees to place over the bolt head. All control arms “should” be loosened and re-torqued so the bushings are not in a bind for best bushing life and performance.

It’s doable taking your time in a day or less. Some can do it in a couple of hours but not me. I triple check everything and I hadn’t done a lift before. This is as easy as it gets though whatever lift you choose!

Also, my daughter helped as it was an opportunity to help her start to get familiar with vehicles to try to help her be more self reliant and less naive if she needs relevant car work done down the road.
@DadJokes and @Dkretden
Got the takeoff rims and tires -- fit well and looks pretty darn good.

I bought , on ebay, a Rubicon JL takeoff suspension (was brand new)
Getting ready to do the switch but my Jeep driving buddy said that he didn't think (or had heard) that I wouldn't get much or even any lift since I have a 4dr Sahara Unlimited with a towing package. He said that it had a beefier suspension so the Rubi takeoffs susp wouldn't help ...... you guys know anything about that ??
 

Dkretden

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@DadJokes and @Dkretden
Got the takeoff rims and tires -- fit well and looks pretty darn good.

I bought , on ebay, a Rubicon JL takeoff suspension (was brand new)
Getting ready to do the switch but my Jeep driving buddy said that he didn't think (or had heard) that I wouldn't get much or even any lift since I have a 4dr Sahara Unlimited with a towing package. He said that it had a beefier suspension so the Rubi takeoffs susp wouldn't help ...... you guys know anything about that ??
Sorry, I don’t know
 

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DadJokes

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@DadJokes and @Dkretden
Got the takeoff rims and tires -- fit well and looks pretty darn good.

I bought , on ebay, a Rubicon JL takeoff suspension (was brand new)
Getting ready to do the switch but my Jeep driving buddy said that he didn't think (or had heard) that I wouldn't get much or even any lift since I have a 4dr Sahara Unlimited with a towing package. He said that it had a beefier suspension so the Rubi takeoffs susp wouldn't help ...... you guys know anything about that ??
I did a lot of research over the months leading up to my purchase. While I cannot guarantee results, my Sahara is loaded. I did not have tow (which likely only affects the rear) and I had 58/59 springs up front. I NEVER saw Rubicon springs lower than 60 (which was a base model soft top Rubicon more than likely). Out back my Sahara had a 88/89 combination. The lowest I saw on Rubicon rear springs was a 90/91.

I went from a 58/59 front & 88/89 rear combo to a 61/62 front (highest I ever saw was a combination of 62/62 when running VIN numbers on Autotrader) & 90/91 rear set off a hardtop, steel bumper, tow package Rubicon. Now, my rear springs...I don’t think are typical. While they’re not rare, those springs might make the Jeep sit more level...*shrug*? I found 91/92’s for the rear too. That “might” give a bit more lift out back?

I precisely measured the before and after results. Same position in the garage, same axle centerline, same 1” dowel, same bubble level to ensure the mark on the dowel lined up with the bottom of the black fender plastic above the wheels. I feel 100% confident I was within 1/16” accuracy. The end result was 1” up front and .750” out back. I think this will allow me to run up to 34” tires with no or very minor rubbing on the inner fenders with the stock Sahara fenders. Especially if the Rubicon’s can run 35’s with their 1” higher fenders.

This route is appealing to me because ALL the stock parts will still fall within specs with no adjustable pieces being needed. Factory parts are easy to acquire for the most part and for what we’re doing, I don’t want to have to wait long if there’s some eventual breakage.

I’d highly recommend the Mopar .250” longer lower control arms as well. Drives easier/nicer. Still no aftermarket adjustability needed. Lastly, if you get or plan on a winch, heavy bumpers, just order some 1/2” spring spacers and throw them in. I kinda wish I did now. Not a have to and I haven’t measured yet but this will offset the sag that weight will cause. You might still net a tiny tiny gain adding these with the winch and bumper added. I haven’t measured my Genright bumper, Warn winch weight sag yet.

And again, you are still within stock specs if the weight is added and you’ve got the spacers.

I hope that helps. I just wanted a low center of gravity build with 33-34” tires.
 

DadJokes

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Oh, and 33.8-34” seems to be the limit before a tire rubs on the plastic bumper when it’s on the factory tailgate. That’s another reason for stopping at 34” tires. I’m wanting to avoid the slippery slope of changes.
 
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ahole4sure

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I did a lot of research over the months leading up to my purchase. While I cannot guarantee results, my Sahara is loaded. I did not have tow (which likely only affects the rear) and I had 58/59 springs up front. I NEVER saw Rubicon springs lower than 60 (which was a base model soft top Rubicon more than likely). Out back my Sahara had a 88/89 combination. The lowest I saw on Rubicon rear springs was a 90/91.

I went from a 58/59 front & 88/89 rear combo to a 61/62 front (highest I ever saw was a combination of 62/62 when running VIN numbers on Autotrader) & 90/91 rear set off a hardtop, steel bumper, tow package Rubicon. Now, my rear springs...I don’t think are typical. While they’re not rare, those springs might make the Jeep sit more level...*shrug*? I found 91/92’s for the rear too. That “might” give a bit more lift out back?

I precisely measured the before and after results. Same position in the garage, same axle centerline, same 1” dowel, same bubble level to ensure the mark on the dowel lined up with the bottom of the black fender plastic above the wheels. I feel 100% confident I was within 1/16” accuracy. The end result was 1” up front and .750” out back. I think this will allow me to run up to 34” tires with no or very minor rubbing on the inner fenders with the stock Sahara fenders. Especially if the Rubicon’s can run 35’s with their 1” higher fenders.

This route is appealing to me because ALL the stock parts will still fall within specs with no adjustable pieces being needed. Factory parts are easy to acquire for the most part and for what we’re doing, I don’t want to have to wait long if there’s some eventual breakage.

I’d highly recommend the Mopar .250” longer lower control arms as well. Drives easier/nicer. Still no aftermarket adjustability needed. Lastly, if you get or plan on a winch, heavy bumpers, just order some 1/2” spring spacers and throw them in. I kinda wish I did now. Not a have to and I haven’t measured yet but this will offset the sag that weight will cause. You might still net a tiny tiny gain adding these with the winch and bumper added. I haven’t measured my Genright bumper, Warn winch weight sag yet.

And again, you are still within stock specs if the weight is added and you’ve got the spacers.

I hope that helps. I just wanted a low center of gravity build with 33-34” tires.
Wow thanks for taking time to answer so well.
Weather is supposed to be ok tomorrow afternoon -- wonder if I should try to just put in the shocks and springs ? lol I guess I would have to order the spacers and the arms -- but I guess I could likewise try just the springs and shocks first --- hopefully I can do it in 3 hours or so, otherwise I'm going to get really cold
 

DadJokes

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Wow thanks for taking time to answer so well.
Weather is supposed to be ok tomorrow afternoon -- wonder if I should try to just put in the shocks and springs ? lol I guess I would have to order the spacers and the arms -- but I guess I could likewise try just the springs and shocks first --- hopefully I can do it in 3 hours or so, otherwise I'm going to get really cold
It’s up to you but I’d wait on the parts and knock it all out in one day or a weekend. Otherwise you’ll be putting it up in the air again covering the same ground... in the cold. lol You’re going to need to loosen and retorque EVERY control arm bolt front and back to truly do it right and not put your rubber control arm bushings in a bind that would cause premature failure. That’s the factory technique.
 
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ahole4sure

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It’s up to you but I’d wait on the parts and knock it all out in one day or a weekend. Otherwise you’ll be putting it up in the air again covering the same ground... in the cold. lol You’re going to need to loosen and retorque EVERY control arm bolt front and back to truly do it right and not put your rubber control arm bushings in a bind that would cause premature failure. That’s the factory technique.
LOL lol you're killin me man -- just like a good friend of mine -- telling me to do it the right way (instead of half-assed). I'll take your advice. My friend has a garage I can use later
Thank you !!
 

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DadJokes

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LOL lol you're killin me man -- just like a good friend of mine -- telling me to do it the right way (instead of half-assed). I'll take your advice. My friend has a garage I can use later
Thank you !!
Find the Mopar lift kit install pdf for the JL’s. It’s what I used aside from the difference of they specify 190 lb-ft of torque on the control arm bolts. I used the factory tightening technique. I’d give you that but I’ve forgotten. I wanna say it 115 ft lbs plus so many degrees rotation.
 

LSguy

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Why is it being suggested to run the rubi suspension to fit rubi tires? I believe my Willys came with the same size tires as a rubi, on 17 inch MOAB wheels. It has the rubi shocks but not springs. I assumed you didn't need the rubi springs unless you were disconnecting. Please correct me if I am wrong here, as I am still gathering information.
 

DadJokes

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Why is it being suggested to run the rubi suspension to fit rubi tires? I believe my Willys came with the same size tires as a rubi, on 17 inch MOAB wheels. It has the rubi shocks but not springs. I assumed you didn't need the rubi springs unless you were disconnecting. Please correct me if I am wrong here, as I am still gathering information.
Probably because it’s inexpensive. It’s not required though.
 
 



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