2-door Over-the-top Hoist

Kreepin1

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Kirk
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1982 CJ7, 2006 TJ, 2012 JKR, 2021 JLR
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I recently built a pair of hoists for my new JL and buddy's wife's Jeep as well. I'm not sure this qualifies as a DIY project unless you have access to a torch, welder and other metal working equipment. However, a handy person could certainly adapt this design to the point you could do it with a hacksaw, file and hand drill.

Materials list:
2 - Cam-lock straps
2 - 3-3/4" pieces of 2-1/2" x 1/8" strap
1 - 47-1/4" piece of 3/4" x 1/8" wall square steel tube (front bar)
1 - 48" piece of 3/4" x 1/8" wall square steel tube (middle bar)
1 - 47-3/4" piece of 3/4" x 1/8" wall square steel tube (rear bar)
2 - 10-1/2 pieces of 1-1/2" x 3/16" steel strap
2 - 5/16"-18 x 1-1/2" square head bolts
2 - 5/16" locknuts
2 - 1/4" x 3/4" x 2" U-bolts
Paint
Plasti-dip
Electrical tape

Here is what the final product looks like:
IMG_3207.JPG
 
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Kreepin1

Kreepin1

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Kirk
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1982 CJ7, 2006 TJ, 2012 JKR, 2021 JLR
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The rear of the top is supported at the bottom by two hooks. Start with a pair of cam-lock straps:
IMG_3174.JPG


Now cut the hooks off the short part:
IMG_3175.JPG


Then bend a pair of flat hooks. Here is the jig I used:
IMG_3176.JPG


Then weld the hook onto the other end of the strap. Hint: use a wet rag to cool the steel before the heat reaches the strap and melts it.
IMG_3177.JPG


This is sort of a time sequence.
IMG_3178.JPG


Finish with Plasti-dip:
IMG_3197.JPG
 
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Kreepin1

Kreepin1

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Kirk
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1982 CJ7, 2006 TJ, 2012 JKR, 2021 JLR
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Now for the frame. Weld the square bolts into the rear bar.
IMG_3179.JPG


Bend the two pieces of 1-1/2 x 3/16 strap so that one leg is 6" long. I like to make the tip of this long leg well rounded and smooth so it doesn't scratch the roll bar or top. Weld the middle and front bars on and then attach these two pieces as shown:
IMG_3184.JPG


Next weld one of the U-bolts at the front of the middle bar. This will be used to stabilize the top when you store it. The balance point of the top is 34-1/2" from the front of the front bar. You actually want the attachment point further to the rear than that so that some weight is on the front U-bolt. I would weld the second U-bolt about 35-1/2" from the front of the front bar. I had some of these laying around the shop and welded a pair of them on instead with the middle hole at 34-1/2" back. This gives me some adjustment. I'm currently using the second hole from the rear.
IMG_3192.JPG


Here is the test fit. You can see the front U-bolt here:
IMG_3195.JPG


Time for some paint and wrapping electrical tape around the two front hooks. I had some truly enormous shrink tubing laying around so I used that instead:
IMG_3203.JPG


Here is how the straps attach in the rear:
IMG_3206.JPG


IMG_3204.JPG
 
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Kreepin1

Kreepin1

Well-Known Member
First Name
Kirk
Joined
Oct 27, 2020
Messages
397
Reaction score
549
Location
Central Illinois
Vehicle(s)
1982 CJ7, 2006 TJ, 2012 JKR, 2021 JLR
Build Thread
Link
There are lots of ways to lift the top. I prefer to have a track so I can slide the top on and off and store it well out of the way at the back of the garage. My buddy wanted to slide his to the side of the shop. For this I used a 10' barn door track, three barn door wheels and a 110V hoist from Harbor Freight.
IMG_3198.JPG


One of the wheels is used to stabilize the front of the top. Here is the hook I used. Note that next time, I will put an eye bolt in the track and use a hook on the front of the frame instead. This way you can tie a short piece of rope to the wheel and slide it back and forth in the track, then hook it to the frame/top.
IMG_3202.JPG


Next you put the hoist on wheels. You need some longer 6mm bolts, a stack of washers, a pair of 1/2" button head bolts and some thin 1/2" nuts to pull this off.
IMG_3199.JPG


Finished wheel:
IMG_3200.JPG


And installed:
IMG_3208.JPG


WRHZ8709.JPG
 
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