2.5" vs 3.5" Implications

mmajer4211

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I want to get springs to replace my 2.5" spacer lift I currently have right now. My question is will there be problems I will run into if I go with 3.5" springs vs 2.5" when it comes to other suspension parts/gears/etc.? I have the following on my Jeep right now:

2.5" Teraflex Performance Spacer Lift
Falcon 3.3 Fast Adjust Piggyback Shocks
Teraflex Alpine IR Adjustable Control Arms (Front Lower)
Teraflex Alpine IR Adjustable Front Track Bar
Teraflex Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket
35" Falken Wildpeak ATW/3

I've heard, and I don't know if it's true, that going above 2.5"/3" will put a lot more stress on different parts than just staying at 2.5" and that's what I am trying to avoid. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Redbaron73

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Your E-brake cable, brake lines, electrical connections for lockers and FAD will all work up to 3.5" of lift with a relocate and modified brackets.

After about 3.5" of lift, you will have to accommodate these cables with additional extensions.

There may be room for a 4", I don't have personal experience. I just know that at 3.5" full droop, I am very close to the max room for the FAD/Lockers, and e-brake cable.
 
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mmajer4211

mmajer4211

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Your E-brake cable, brake lines, electrical connections for lockers and FAD will all work up to 3.5" of lift with a relocate and modified brackets.

After about 3.5" of lift, you will have to accommodate these cables with additional extensions.

There may be room for a 4", I don't have personal experience. I just know that at 3.5" full droop, I am very close to the max room for the FAD/Lockers, and e-brake cable.
Thanks for your reply. It sounds like you have a 3.5" on yours so what's been your experience with it? As in, did you re-gear? Have you replaced the driveshafts or is that not necessary with only 3.5"? Any other issues at all? Sorry for all the questions, just don't want to put 3.5" springs on and then have to spend another couple thousand replacing parts I wouldn't have had to if I stayed with 2.5".
 

Redbaron73

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Thanks for your reply. It sounds like you have a 3.5" on yours so what's been your experience with it? As in, did you re-gear? Have you replaced the driveshafts or is that not necessary with only 3.5"? Any other issues at all? Sorry for all the questions, just don't want to put 3.5" springs on and then have to spend another couple thousand replacing parts I wouldn't have had to if I stayed with 2.5".
I have the MAXIMUS-3 Geolift. This lift corrects the geometry of the JL and provides superior handling to the factory setup. They claim because of the corrected geometry, the front driveshaft will not need to be replaced. Time will tell, and I fully expect that drive shaft to eventually need replacement, regardless of the marketing.

I am running 37's with stock 4.1 gears. I plan on eventually regearing to 4.88, but honestly it drives so good as is, I may never do it. The only reason I am considering a regear is to protect the long term wear and tear on the torque converter.

I was not happy with the RockKrawler springs, but to be fair, I had installed them incorrectly. By the time I figured out that RK includes different spring perches that are side specific, I had already ordered the synergy springs.

RK was a bit taller than Synergy and a bit rougher. I live on a country road that is traveled by water-tankers servicing gas well sites. The roads are bad, and with the RKs, it was too rough for me. Synergy toned it down quite a bit. RK may be different if I had it installed properly.

I would spend time researching Maximus, MetalCloak, and other reputable lifts. There are pros and cons to all of them. I am happy with the Maximus, and will be installing another geolift on my Sport and the wifes soon to arrive rubicon.
 

GearWhore

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Your shocks may be the limiter, though quite nice. They are generally sized for the spring/lift height and will have a little less down-travel than you'd get with the rest of your setup. They will act as a limiting strap.

Also, you will likely need a new front driveshaft to clear the front crossmember. If not now, then near-term.

You already have the adjustable front lower control arms and track bar, so good there but they will need to be adjusted. Not sure if the rear bracket has any adjustment but you might want/need an adjustable rear track bar to keep the rear axle centered.

If you plan to stay on 35s, I'd stick to the 2.5" unless they rub somewhere. 35s on 3.5" look undersized (to me).

But do what you want and what makes you happy!
 

golong27

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I don't know what others' experience is but my 2.5" Rubicon Express lift gave me 3.5+, which is more than I wanted. You might look for insight from other Sahara owners before moving up to a 3.5 lift as you may get more than you wanted. I had to add an adjustable track bar to compensate for the extra rise.

my understanding is that most lifts are based off the Rubicon which already has 1-1.5" on non-rubis and manufacturers factor in added weight for rubi steel bumpers, etc.
 

Sgt Beavis

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I'm getting a MetalCloak Gamechanger lift in the next couple of weeks. They advise a new front driveshaft with a 2.5" lift as it is. You can get by without one if you're not off roading or if your aren't flexing it too much but it will have wear and tear issues down the road. With a 3.5" I suspect that wear and tear will be a much bigger issue.

Again, this is from my on research and not experience. I've already budgeted for a new driveshaft.
 
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