2.5 or 3.5 lift with 37's?

[No IFS]

Rubicon
0”- 1.5” lift 35” tires
2” - 2.5” lift 37” tires
3” - 3.5” lift 39” tires

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[Xtremetj]

MetalCloak 3.5” with 37” Nitto Ridge Grapplers

 

[gbr]

MetalCloak 3.5” with 37” Nitto Ridge Grapplers

Love those front fenders!

 

[Xtremetj]

Love those front fenders!

I absolutely love the look but I'm torn. I think they almost gave me too much room up front for 37" tires. Eventually I want to go the 39" BFG KM3's or 40" Nitto's but not sure about that big of tire until I can do something with the axles.

 

[jessedacri]

Here is an MC 2.5" with 37" Pats. Wheels are 4.75BS, 0 offset (fifteen52)

You still running this setup? How do you like it? Are you able to run the outboard shock mounts from MC, and no rubbing the control arms or anything with no wheel spacers?

I ordered fifteen52 wheels and RK is saying it's gonna be a very tight fit with 4.75 BS 0 offset wheels and 37s. I'm having cold feet and am wondering if I should have ultimately gone with my dream wheel the KMC Machete with -38mm / 3.5BS. Much more aggressive, was trying to keep things mild but now I'm double taking.

 

[Thinman]

So far, no issues, but I doubt I have fully flexed it yet. I did get the typical rubbing on that rear plastic piece that typically gets a heatgun re-shape by many, but I just cut it off and did not have any further rubbing at the time. But again, doubt I have flexed it completely.

I've added a bunch of weight since that picture and will be adding more, but have always planned to wait till fully weighted down before deciding on a final spring/shock combo (if I decide I need to upgrade).

 

[jessedacri]

So far, no issues, but I doubt I have fully flexed it yet. I did get the typical rubbing on that rear plastic piece that typically gets a heatgun re-shape by many, but I just cut it off and did not have any further rubbing at the time. But again, doubt I have flexed it completely.

I've added a bunch of weight since that picture and will be adding more, but have always planned to wait till fully weighted down before deciding on a final spring/shock combo (if I decide I need to upgrade).

Looks great man, good to hear no issues so far. How's it feel to drive with the stock gearing and 37s? You 3.6 automatic?

This is basically the exact setup I'm looking to do and already have the wheels in the mail.

 

[@CBEUnion]

Metalcloak 3.5 with Milestar 37s.

 

[@CBEUnion]

I also have a question for all that are running metalcloak springs. Are you using the oem lower spring isolators? If so any issues? I installed Rancho lower spring isolators that are similar to the RK isolators to prevent the springs from bowing. However I thing they cause the springs to bow in at extreme flex which causes the springs to rub against the frame. It actually makes a very noticeable clicking/clanking sound.

You can get "correction pads" from MC now to fix that bow issue. Direct replacement for stock isolators.

 

[Thinman]

Looks great man, good to hear no issues so far. How's it feel to drive with the stock gearing and 37s? You 3.6 automatic?

This is basically the exact setup I'm looking to do and already have the wheels in the mail.

Drives great. On good highway, it's a nice relaxing one handed drive at 80mph.

I have a 20' 2.0T, so no eTorque. Recently weighed at 5700 lbs and am getting 15mph average, but on a nice mountain road, I'll see 16.5 or so. I rarely see 8th gear at this weight (downhill or flat tailwind), but if I pull the 200lbs of tools and gear out for daily driving, I do see it more on the highway.

 

[gbr]

I'm going 3.5 Metalcloak with Milestar Pats 37s. Wanted 38s, but tire coverage is an issue up here. Will go 38s in a couple of years, I think.

Well, went 38s early. I couldn't handle the Load Range D of the Milestar 37s.

 

[Headbarcode]

Well, went 38s early. I couldn't handle the Load Range D of the Milestar 37s.

Fully agree with going with 38" Pat's for the C.

Currently on the Dynatrac 2" lift until the 6-packs get delivered to complete the MC 3.5" replacement.

 

[ChattVol]

Fully agree with going with 38" Pat's for the C.

Currently on the Dynatrac 2" lift until the 6-packs get delivered to complete the MC 3.5" replacement.

Looks good...Are your wheels 17x9 with 4.5 backspacing? If so, are you running 2" or 3" bumpstops? Have you flexed it further than your pic shows while wheelin and turned sharper? I'm wondering how much they rub inner fenders? My 37x12.50 pats are on 17x8.5 with 4.75 backspaced wheels running 2" bumpstops and they rub inner fenders flexing up wheelin before turning full lock. I imagine 38x13.50 with 4.5 backspacing would rub a decent amount if you flex alot. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Headbarcode]

Looks good...Are your wheels 17x9 with 4.5 backspacing? If so, are you running 2" or 3" bumpstops? Have you flexed it further than your pic shows while wheelin and turned sharper? I'm wondering how much they rub inner fenders? My 37x12.50 pats are on 17x8.5 with 4.75 backspaced wheels running 2" bumpstops and they rub inner fenders flexing up wheelin before turning full lock. I imagine 38x13.50 with 4.5 backspacing would rub a decent amount if you flex alot. Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks! Yes, 17x9x4.53" b.s. Currently using the 2" front and rear bump stops that came with the Dynatrac Endurosport.

I chopped the front and rear fenders to install the AAL brace/LEDs and inner liners. That gained me about 3-3.5" of potential up travel over stock. I also had to lose the rear bumper to fender filler panels and the factory front bumper wings to clear the tires. The rears were rubbing on those filler pieces over dips on road, and I couldn't turn more than about 40% towards full lock before the tires started nibbling on the bumper end caps. I replaced all 8 control arms, back when I was rolling 35's, for the adjustability and to recenter the axles in the wells. So, I get a tad more crowding towards the bumpers at full stuff, than those who only do the front lca's and rear uca's for caster/pinion tweaks.

In that pic, my only point of contact is the rear tire hitting the pinch seam. I'll be trimming that when I switch to the 3.5" metalcloak. Otherwise, I still had a solid inch of tire to fender clearance all the way around. The rear bump stop was mostly compressed, so i may end up being able to get away with only needing the 2" bump stop spacer after trimming the body. I know the 6-packs won't be a limiting factor, but I'll have to wait to see if the longer coils will need more bump spacingto prevent the coil from fully compressing.

As for the front, zero rub at full stuff. I actually still have a solid 2" of tire clearance all around with wheels straight, and about a 1/2-5/8" at full lock, with the bump stops fully compressed. The closest two points at full lock in both directions are the higher up leading and trailing edges of the tires to the AAL inner liners. The factory Rubi rock rails were an issue, but they were on borrowed time anyway. One of the many reasons I went with the LOD Destroyers is that they don't crowd as far into the front and rear wheel wells.

Just for curiosity, I may trim the rear pinch seam before replacing the lift. I think I could possibly get that front wheel another 4" higher before fully compressing the rear bumps. It'll also be a better comparison between the two lifts, not having body interference to muddy the waters.

 

[laniercruzer]

I went with the Mopar lift which gave me about 3.5” and Patagonia 38” load range C. No way would I want a D load range on a wrangler unless it was heavily armored, which mine is not. I also added adjustable track bars, LCA’s, and a falcon stabilizer. The ride on road is pretty dang good, and I think the look is pretty balanced. My wife was less than happy about how high it sits though lol.

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