2.5" lift- What do I need to do?

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RubiSc0tt

RubiSc0tt

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Is it replacing all control arms too?

Correction… looks like the link you sent is front control arms and track bar. Depends on if you have any power tools or just hand tools for doing the work. Took me about 12 hours to do everything for mine and was about all the same components just diff brand.
That one takes me about 3 hours. I’m not very fast. My age, and ocd doesn’t let me go any faster, lol That includes test drive and taking it up on the ramp to check flex/rub.
I've got jack stands, floor jack, and Air tools. Industrial maintenance technician by trade- I've done most of my other mods in the driveway with the same set up and finished it in an afternoon or so... but this is more ambitious than any of those projects, especially solo.
I was planning on doing one end, then turning it around and doing the other- since I can't really fit my big ass orange Jeep into my tiny ass apartment garage.





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I've got jack stands, floor jack, and Air tools. Industrial maintenance technician by trade- I've done most of my other mods in the driveway with the same set up and finished it in an afternoon or so... but this is more ambitious than any of those projects, especially solo.
I was planning on doing one end, then turning it around and doing the other- since I can't really fit my big ass orange Jeep into my tiny ass apartment garage.
Yeah..., you’ll be fine, just do shocks/springs, bump stops, sway bar links, rear relo bracket on stands, then I would put it on its wheels, and do front track bar, center up the front axle, then do your control arms last one side at a time. I don’t know if the instructions agree with me or not, never read them, but this works for me.
 
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Yeah..., you’ll be fine, just do shocks/springs, bump stops, sway bar links, rear relo bracket on stands, then I would put it on its wheels, and do front track bar, center up the front axle, then do your control arms last one side at a time. I don’t know if the instructions agree with me or not, never read them, but this works for me.
I've only got 2 jack stands. reading through the instructions it says Front first, LCA's, springs, shocks, track bar, then rear- Springs, shocks, track bar. Bump stops go in before the springs. It also says to cut a hole in part of the front LCA mount to be able to reach the Zirk fitting. I don't have a hole saw, but i DO have a step up bit and grease gun with a hose.
 

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I've only got 2 jack stands. reading through the instructions it says Front first, LCA's, springs, shocks, track bar, then rear- Springs, shocks, track bar. Bump stops go in before the springs. It also says to cut a hole in part of the front LCA mount to be able to reach the Zirk fitting. I don't have a hole saw, but i DO have a step up bit and grease gun with a hose.
If those are the fixed arms, do they have grease fitting on them ? they might be maintenance free joints. Look and see if they have a big C clip holding the joint in.

EF6C9566-0315-4AE7-93B7-5435BCE88129.png
 

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I've only got 2 jack stands. reading through the instructions it says Front first, LCA's, springs, shocks, track bar, then rear- Springs, shocks, track bar. Bump stops go in before the springs. It also says to cut a hole in part of the front LCA mount to be able to reach the Zirk fitting. I don't have a hole saw, but i DO have a step up bit and grease gun with a hose.
@Roky correct me if I’m wrong here but he may need another Jack or at least one more Jack stand to assist with front axle. Sometimes it’s hard to get the Jeep high enough to allow enough drop on axle to get new spring in without holding up one side of axle while dropping the other side. When I added spacers on my Mopar lift, I actually jacked up one side, placed Jack stand, took off tire only on that side, and used the leverage of the other tire to allow axle to drop all the way down. Installed spacer, popped spring back in and then raised. Repeat same process for other side.
 

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@Roky correct me if I’m wrong here but he may need another Jack or at least one more Jack stand to assist with front axle. Sometimes it’s hard to get the Jeep high enough to allow enough drop on axle to get new spring in without holding up one side of axle while dropping the other side. When I added spacers on my Mopar lift, I actually jacked up one side, placed Jack stand, took off tire only on that side, and used the leverage of the other tire to allow axle to drop all the way down. Installed spacer, popped spring back in and then raised. Repeat same process for other side.
Yeah..... I use two 12 ton jack stands under the frame, and I have 2 floor jacks I use under the axle in case I need to force axle down more. But with the tires off you can get enough droop if your high enough on your stands.

E938BF5D-6761-439B-8378-BFA1BE6B8B04.jpeg
E37CC7BB-ECE8-4DF0-AD4F-31CE38D2F693.jpeg
C350A00B-8667-4344-A9B6-D812CAEDBF2F.jpeg
 
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If those are the fixed arms, do they have grease fitting on them ? they might be maintenance free joints. Look and see if they have a big C clip holding the joint in.

EF6C9566-0315-4AE7-93B7-5435BCE88129.png
Yes- they are the new series maintenance free joints.
@Roky correct me if I’m wrong here but he may need another Jack or at least one more Jack stand to assist with front axle. Sometimes it’s hard to get the Jeep high enough to allow enough drop on axle to get new spring in without holding up one side of axle while dropping the other side. When I added spacers on my Mopar lift, I actually jacked up one side, placed Jack stand, took off tire only on that side, and used the leverage of the other tire to allow axle to drop all the way down. Installed spacer, popped spring back in and then raised. Repeat same process for other side.
That's kind of what my plan was: Place jack stands, remove tire, use floor jack to let the axle droop and flex to get the springs in/out.

If i don't have to cut a hole to clearance the zirc (because service free joints) this install just got easier. Honestly, it's looking like the biggest pain in the ass may be actually drilling the spring buckets for the bump stops/ retainers.
 

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Yeah..... I use two 12 ton jack stands under the frame, and I have 2 floor jacks I use under the axle in case I need to force axle down more. But with the tires off you can get enough droop if your high enough on your stands.

E938BF5D-6761-439B-8378-BFA1BE6B8B04.jpeg
E37CC7BB-ECE8-4DF0-AD4F-31CE38D2F693.jpeg
C350A00B-8667-4344-A9B6-D812CAEDBF2F.jpeg
Definitely would seem easier with two floor jacks
 

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Yes- they are the new series maintenance free joints.

That's kind of what my plan was: Place jack stands, remove tire, use floor jack to let the axle droop and flex to get the springs in/out.

If i don't have to cut a hole to clearance the zirc (because service free joints) this install just got easier. Honestly, it's looking like the biggest pain in the ass may be actually drilling the spring buckets for the bump stops/ retainers.
Yeah, check out your lcas when you flex it, to see if the arms hit that spot they want you to clearance. My jam nut hit there before I notched it. I know you don’t have a jam nut but it’s worth a look.
 

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so, Back again... Trying to plan an install around everyone's summer plans. Quick question for anyone who has installed this lift themselves, in the driveway with jackstands and air tools: How long did it take? @Roky and @limeade - any insight?
I'm not as quick as @Roky (that's what she said :CWL:) , but the first time I installed the RK Adventure Series 1 lift it took me probably 5-6 hours. Kind of hard to say though, I also replaced tie rod, drag link, and added a track bar/sector shaft brace at the same time. If all you're doing is the suspension lift and it's your first time, I'd plan on a solid 8 hours or so.

To be more efficient, do some research to have the exact tools, sockets, etc. on hand and within easy reach as you work on it. I can't even begin to explain how much I hate being under my Jeep and have to continuously go to the tool box to get something.

The hardest part (and it's not even that difficult), will be getting your front track bar correct. Start with RK's recommendation, but if you need to make any changes you'll have to remove, adjust the TB, re-install, and measure again. After a few times of this, you'll be pretty fast at it. Have a ratchet strap on hand to help getting the new track bar installed, unless you have a helper. If you do, they can turn the steering wheel a bit to help line up the mounts.
 

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Yes- they are the new series maintenance free joints.

That's kind of what my plan was: Place jack stands, remove tire, use floor jack to let the axle droop and flex to get the springs in/out.

If i don't have to cut a hole to clearance the zirc (because service free joints) this install just got easier. Honestly, it's looking like the biggest pain in the ass may be actually drilling the spring buckets for the bump stops/ retainers.
Yeah, check out your lcas when you flex it, to see if the arms hit that spot they want you to clearance. My jam nut hit there before I notched it. I know you don’t have a jam nut but it’s worth a look.
There's two reasons they have you clearance the bracket. One is for the zerk fitting. Second is during max flex, the arm will contact the upper bracket, limiting articulation. I can't remember the size I used, but I had a metal hole saw kit I used. I also installed 90 degree zerk fittings on my arms to make lubrication easier. But with the re-designed Adventure series joints, you won't have to worry about that.
 

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I'm not as quick as @Roky (that's what she said :CWL:) , but the first time I installed the RK Adventure Series 1 lift it took me probably 5-6 hours. Kind of hard to say though, I also replaced tie rod, drag link, and added a track bar/sector shaft brace at the same time. If all you're doing is the suspension lift and it's your first time, I'd plan on a solid 8 hours or so.

To be more efficient, do some research to have the exact tools, sockets, etc. on hand and within easy reach as you work on it. I can't even begin to explain how much I hate being under my Jeep and have to continuously go to the tool box to get something.

The hardest part (and it's not even that difficult), will be getting your front track bar correct. Start with RK's recommendation, but if you need to make any changes you'll have to remove, adjust the TB, re-install, and measure again. After a few times of this, you'll be pretty fast at it. Have a ratchet strap on hand to help getting the new track bar installed, unless you have a helper. If you do, they can turn the steering wheel a bit to help line up the mounts.
That sounds like about the same amount of time, tie rod, drag link and sector shaft brace is an easy couple hours for me . By the time you set up the tie rod, then set toe and dial it all in.....it all depends on how many times I drop those stupid O rings trying to reinstall the track bar........🤣
 

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That sounds like about the same amount of time, tie rod, drag link and sector shaft brace is an easy couple hours for me . By the time you set up the tie rod, then set toe and dial it all in.....it all depends on how many times I drop those stupid O rings trying to reinstall the track bar........🤣
Yes, those O-Rings are the only thing I HATE about the RK track bar!!
 

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