2.5" lift- What do I need to do?

RubiSc0tt

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If there are catch all threads for this, please feel free to link. I couldn't find any (other than "what lift" posts).

I'm staring to plan for lifting my Jeep. Planning on going with the following:
-Rock Krawler Adventure Series 2.5" lift (still deciding between shock and Adventure series options)
-37x12.5x17R tires (Either Milestars or Toyo MT's because that's where I have my hookups)
- Either 1.75" Spacers and OEM Wheels Or Aftermarket wheels with 4-4.5" backspacing.
-Upgraded tire carrier for the larger spare tire

Aside from the above- what else would I need to do to prep for this install?
Driveshafts? Exhaust? Tie rod/ Drag link?

Thanks in advance. My previous experience is only with TJ's, so I'm trying to pull everything together and have all parts on hand so I can do this over a weekend.





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RedundanT

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From your past rigs I'll assume you actually wheel, since that is the case a front driveshaft would almost be mandatory. You can wait for the rear, or do it at the same time if funds available. I know some do 37's on stock rims, but I would NOT hang a heavy 37 out on a spacer, get some properly backspaced wheels. Tie rods are another option if you have several miles, the factory ones aren't bad but with age and wear they won't handle the stress of the big tires. Dynatrac would be my first choice, followed by Synergy if doing the ends. If doing the drag link and tie rod assembly there are several quality kits.
 
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RubiSc0tt

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From your past rigs I'll assume you actually wheel,
Yep, and I got the pictures to prove it :LOL:
since that is the case a front driveshaft would almost be mandatory. You can wait for the rear, or do it at the same time if funds available. I know some do 37's on stock rims, but I would NOT hang a heavy 37 out on a spacer, get some properly backspaced wheels. Tie rods are another option if you have several miles, the factory ones aren't bad but with age and wear they won't handle the stress of the big tires. Dynatrac would be my first choice, followed by Synergy if doing the ends. If doing the drag link and tie rod assembly there are several quality kits.
excellent info. Thanks! Ou of curiosity- why driveshafts? Do they risk breakage, or just slipping apart? I noticed they're big, hollow, and splined, vs. my old 1 piece shafts on my TJ's. Do they need to have any length changed, like the old TJ's?
 

Roky

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If there are catch all threads for this, please feel free to link. I couldn't find any (other than "what lift" posts).

I'm staring to plan for lifting my Jeep. Planning on going with the following:
-Rock Krawler Adventure Series 2.5" lift (still deciding between shock and Adventure series options)
-37x12.5x17R tires (Either Milestars or Toyo MT's because that's where I have my hookups)
- Either 1.75" Spacers and OEM Wheels Or Aftermarket wheels with 4-4.5" backspacing.
-Upgraded tire carrier for the larger spare tire

Aside from the above- what else would I need to do to prep for this install?
Driveshafts? Exhaust? Tie rod/ Drag link?

Thanks in advance. My previous experience is only with TJ's, so I'm trying to pull everything together and have all parts on hand so I can do this over a weekend.
Hey Scott......
For some reason I thought you were already on a lift, lol. Anyway, as for, driveshafts, exhaust, tie rod /drag link, you can replace as needed, you don’t have to replace for 2.5” lift.

I’d suggest you go with the RK version that includes the no limits sway bar links, they’re a must have with the electronic disconnect imo, and adjustable lcas instead of fixed, so you can fine tune your caster.

Aftermarket rims or spacers , that’s a preference call, both ways work, but I personally don’t like using wheel spacers if it can be avoided.

The tire carrier, also is a preference call, I’d only suggest that you get one that replaces the factory hinges, not just reinforces them, or a bumper mounted if your gonna wheel it....... that’s just some .02 from an RK brother..:)
 

RedundanT

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Yep, and I got the pictures to prove it :LOL:

excellent info. Thanks! Ou of curiosity- why driveshafts? Do they risk breakage, or just slipping apart? I noticed they're big, hollow, and splined, vs. my old 1 piece shafts on my TJ's. Do they need to have any length changed, like the old TJ's?
The front when drooped will be at an angle that destroys the lame factory joint at the transfer case. Out back at extreme droop the rear shaft can and will rub the gas tank skid. I bought some Dana's made for up to 4" lift, but just like the TJ, Adams, JE Reel and the usual suspects have good ones.
 

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Yep, and I got the pictures to prove it :LOL:

excellent info. Thanks! Ou of curiosity- why driveshafts? Do they risk breakage, or just slipping apart? I noticed they're big, hollow, and splined, vs. my old 1 piece shafts on my TJ's. Do they need to have any length changed, like the old TJ's?
I started with the RK 2.5" adventure series 1 lift and didn't need an aftermarket front drive shaft. While this is a great lift, I don't think it flexes/articulates enough to warrant a new front DS right away. Maybe after a few years or so then yes. I just removed my stock front DS and put in an Adams 1350 (due to also installing a 3.5" X Factor). The DS looked to be in great shape still with only minor ovaling of the silver colored collar at the transfer case yoke.

The Adventure Series of lifts are a good option, especially if on a budget and/or not planning a lot of hard core off roading.
 
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RubiSc0tt

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good info. I appreciate the in depth analysis @RedundanT , and the additional insight from people running this kind of kit like @limeade and @Roky.

I do plan on wheeling, but I don't know if you'd consider it "hardcore" anymore. For my TJ's, it definitely was, but the JLUR with the longer wheelbase and larger clearances (than my TJ's) is a little more capable. 37's should get me pretty much anywhere in the Northeast, minus buggy trails. I loved my XFactor on my TJ but the jam nuts were a pain for a daily driver. But I like big Rocks and I cannot lie, so who knows if I'll end up back there in a few years.

I'm definitely going with a swing out style tire carrier, but I seem to be striking out with things that meet my criteria and price. May possibly talk to a buddy about design and fabrication of one.

Next Question: Fender chop: Is it worth the extra effort?
 

Roky

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good info. I appreciate the in depth analysis @RedundanT , and the additional insight from people running this kind of kit like @limeade and @Roky.

I do plan on wheeling, but I don't know if you'd consider it "hardcore" anymore. For my TJ's, it definitely was, but the JLUR with the longer wheelbase and larger clearances (than my TJ's) is a little more capable. 37's should get me pretty much anywhere in the Northeast, minus buggy trails. I loved my XFactor on my TJ but the jam nuts were a pain for a daily driver. But I like big Rocks and I cannot lie, so who knows if I'll end up back there in a few years.

I'm definitely going with a swing out style tire carrier, but I seem to be striking out with things that meet my criteria and price. May possibly talk to a buddy about design and fabrication of one.

Next Question: Fender chop: Is it worth the extra effort?
I did it out of necessity because of articulation. Some do it because they like the slimline look. I wanted to keep the JL look, so that’s why I didn’t do aftermarket. Depends on the shocks you plan on running, and how much bump stop you want to run.

For example, I’m running longer shocks than is recommend for my springs so I’m losing an inch of uptravel just bolting them on. So I’ve decided to wear high-water fenders and less bump to keep my full range of shock travel, and my tires out of the fenders.

9DEA49E4-260B-4390-9330-CE461D14AF48.jpeg


Some guys don’t like the high-water pants, (fenders) look, but I don’t mind it, I chose function over aesthetics........:)

0F469CED-DE67-4345-9273-A29144A519AE.png
 
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RubiSc0tt

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I did it out of necessity because of articulation. Some do it because they like the slimline look. I wanted to keep the JL look, so that’s why I didn’t do aftermarket. Depends on the shocks you plan on running, and how much bump stop you want to run.

For example, I’m running longer shocks than is recommend for my springs so I’m losing an inch of uptravel just bolting them on. So I’ve decided to wear high-water fenders and less bump to keep my full range of shock travel, and my tires out of the fenders.
I tend to agree. Did you have to do inner fenders with the chop kit? It would be ideal to keep the tires out of the Fenders. Plus, I like the AAL kit and the look.

Also: What Wheels are you running? What's the dimensions on them?
 

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I tend to agree. Did you have to do inner fenders with the chop kit? It would be ideal to keep the tires out of the Fenders. Plus, I like the AAL kit and the look.

Also: What Wheels are you running? What's the dimensions on them?
Yeah.... I’ve got Artec inners . But when I got my Fox resi shocks I had to trim them to keep them off the resi hose. .....
01A58004-586A-4B77-ACD9-F379AD5E2C91.jpeg


These work great, but there’s several different inners to choose from, and the AAL also offer inners to go with their light kit.

The wheels are Dirty Life DT9303 bead locks, tires are 37/12.50/17 nittos. They’re 17x9 4.5 backspace and -12 offset. They’re a little heavier than most but they’ve been great, absolutely no issues, and they can be run as simulated bead locks or actual bead locks.

They come with plastic ring , and if you want to run as bead locks you have to order the aluminum rings. Also great customer service. They sent us new center caps for free, when the wife emailed them about the chrome coming off, likely my fault with the pressure washer to many times.

339C728D-EDCE-485B-9B0B-31309F43A9E3.jpeg
 
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RubiSc0tt

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Yeah.... I’ve got Artec inners . But when I got my Fox resi shocks I had to trim them to keep them off the resi hose. .....
01A58004-586A-4B77-ACD9-F379AD5E2C91.jpeg


These work great, but there’s several different inners to choose from, and the AAL also offer inners to go with their light kit.
So, there is additional cost to the fender chop. Good to know.

The wheels are Dirty Life DT9303 bead locks, tires are 37/12.50/17 nittos. They’re 17x9 4.5 backspace and -12 offset. They’re a little heavier than most but they’ve been great, absolutely no issues, and they can be run as simulated bead locks or actual bead locks.

They come with plastic ring , and if you want to run as bead locks you have to order the aluminum rings. Also great customer service. They sent us new center caps for free, when the wife emailed them about the chrome coming off, likely my fault with the pressure washer to many times.

339C728D-EDCE-485B-9B0B-31309F43A9E3.jpeg
That's the same exact set up I am looking to run, but with different tires. I'm back and forth between the plastic and the aluminum ring. I don't NEED beadlocks, but I would definitely use them. It looks like they flex well, do they rub when daily driving?
 

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So, there is additional cost to the fender chop. Good to know.


That's the same exact set up I am looking to run, but with different tires. I'm back and forth between the plastic and the aluminum ring. I don't NEED beadlocks, but I would definitely use them. It looks like they flex well, do they rub when daily driving?
Yeah, these run really well on the highway, can’t tell your on bead locks at all.

The wheels also come in a gunmetal, and a bronze color. You can also get the bead lock rings in black.
 

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Maybe also consider an adjustable track bar for body alignment and either geometry correction brackets or adjustable LCAs to correct the caster angle.
 
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RubiSc0tt

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Maybe also consider an adjustable track bar for body alignment and either geometry correction brackets or adjustable LCAs to correct the caster angle.
The Adjustable track bar is included in the RK kit, and the Control arms are designed to be correct. If I have any issues I should be able to get the adjustables from RK as they're local to me .
 

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