2.0 coolant leak at 10,000

[RAO]

I checked mine - a January ‘22 build - the lower bolt was tight but the upper bolt was only snug but not tight. Was able to reach them with a 1/4” ratchet with extension and T30. Did the top from the hood and bottom from underneath. Make them tight but don’t go crazy as these are small bolts and an aluminum casting. Thinking of getting a spare just in case.

Recommend everyone check theirs. 10 minute effort will save a lot of headaches.

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[Buster1]

I used to work on aircraft a fair bit. Blue thread locker and a torque stripe for quick visual check was very common. I’m thinking this could solve the issue.

 

[Trailrated]

The linked TSB specifically states model years 2018-2020 and built before November 30, 2019. OP is a 21.

I would hope FCA assembled them properly once the issue was identified.

That said I am underwhelmed with the engineering and the performance of this cooling system.

Yea the cooling system seems weird to me. I watch my coolant temp gauge often, the temps have a huge swing. Not so much driving, I'll see 192* - 204*, but idling and slowing putting around I've seen 219* Not sure if its normal or not

 

[Old Dogger]

Yea the cooling system seems weird to me. I watch my coolant temp gauge often, the temps have a huge swing. Not so much driving, I'll see 192* - 204*, but idling and slowing putting around I've seen 219* Not sure if its normal or not

That is normal. The 3.6 does similar. When the vehicle is moving, the forced air is going through the radiator. When idling, or in slow stop and go traffic, one is relying on the engine cooling fan to kick in. The fan is temperature controlled. This is why the difference in temps.

 

[Jim1964]

I’m going to agree you guys are onto something with this TSB. Torqued mine this morning; took between 1/16 to 1/8 turn on both bolts. January 22 build. Five thousand miles.

I’m not necessarily convinced they are leaving the factory loose, though. Given the unusually wide range of operating temperatures I’m seeing, there is a lot of thermal expansion and contraction cycles going on. Riding around on forest roads and trails, it’s roaming everywhere between 19x (where the thermostat apparently closes) and 22x. The fan may cycle in and out of high speed every minute or two. That’s a lot of 30 degree swings happening.

I’ve seen temps dip into 18x when it’s cooler. 23x is easy to achieve on a highway speed mountain grade.

Frequently while four wheeling it will kick on the high speed fan, even when coolant, oil, and transmission are all <200. What’s that all about? There’s something driving the fan controller that I can’t see on the dash instrumentation.

 

[Burntoutaccountant]

Still don’t know if my issue is the bolts. I’ll update accordingly when it’s diagnosed late next week. Looked like it was coming from the front driver side of the motor.

 

[mwilk012]

I’m going to agree you guys are onto something with this TSB. Torqued mine this morning; took between 1/16 to 1/8 turn on both bolts. January 22 build. Five thousand miles.

I’m not necessarily convinced they are leaving the factory loose, though. Given the unusually wide range of operating temperatures I’m seeing, there is a lot of thermal expansion and contraction cycles going on. Riding around on forest roads and trails, it’s roaming everywhere between 19x (where the thermostat apparently closes) and 22x. The fan may cycle in and out of high speed every minute or two. That’s a lot of 30 degree swings happening.

I’ve seen temps dip into 18x when it’s cooler. 23x is easy to achieve on a highway speed mountain grade.

Frequently while four wheeling it will kick on the high speed fan, even when coolant, oil, and transmission are all <200. What’s that all about? There’s something driving the fan controller that I can’t see on the dash instrumentation.

30 degree temperature changes are nothing compared to the 150 change from garage temp to operating.

 

[Burntoutaccountant]

Got a call from the dealership today. It was the tsb that’s out there for earlier year models. They said the coolant was the right color.

 

[Gravytheclown]

My Jeep is done waiting to be shipped. FCA was supposed to call me yesterday, but no call. I will be call them back today. I just want my Willy back.

Gravy

 

[Rover72]

Just had the same issue with the top screw, less than finger tight, it must have backed out since no leaks for 12000 miles. Was able to tighten the bottom one just a little. Filled up with a 1.5 gallons of antifreeze and there appears to be no leaking. I was able to tighten with 1/4 in ratchet as suggested and got it pretty tight not over doing it for fear of break off.

Wondering if gasket should have been replaced and if with heat cycles screws will back out again.

I used the Peak OAT antifreeze and assume this is compatible with Mopar OAT. Can anyone confirm this?

Do you think I should have the dealer double check the tourque tightness / apply some thread sealer to the screws and maybe drain and refill with all Mopar antifreeze or just stay away from the dealer which scares me a bit since you ever know if they may put a rookie on the job making things worse in many cases.

Does anyone know a good Jeep Service Dept in east coast Southern Florida?

 

[Heimkehr]

I used the Peak OAT antifreeze and assume this is compatible with Mopar OAT. Can anyone confirm this?

Do you think I should have the dealer double check the tourque tightness / apply some thread sealer to the screws and maybe drain and refill with all Mopar antifreeze or just stay away from the dealer...

I asked about coolant compatibility at my dealer. The Parts Mgr, who seemed pretty squared away, said that any aftermarket coolant that I decide to use should have just OAT on the rear label. Coolant that is sold as cross-compatible with OAT, HOAT, IAT and/or Dex-Cool should be avoided since FCA/Stellantis is very prescriptive about what is and isn't on the ingredients list. Based on his counsel, I simply purchased the OEM coolant, which per my link wasn't any more costly than the varying brands sold at Auto Zone and elsewhere.

As for thread sealer for the relevant cooling systems bolts, this temperature-rated threadlock came strongly recommended. I've used different flavors of the Loctite brand for years now, and trust its suitability for purpose.

 

[mwilk012]

https://www.valvoline.com/en/zerex-G30-antifreeze-coolant/

 

[Jwb211]

I just got back from a little 200 mile trip this morning and mine is leaking now too. 22 model will have to check the build date but 10.5k miles on it.

ETA: Build date February 22

lower bolt was loose but I can’t check the upper one. I don’t have any torx sockets here. I found a folding key set in my range bag but it’s too big/awkwardly shaped to get on the top bolt.

 

[AMT]

I asked about coolant compatibility at my dealer. The Parts Mgr, who seemed pretty squared away, said that any aftermarket coolant that I decide to use should have just OAT on the rear label. Coolant that is sold as cross-compatible with OAT, HOAT, IAT and/or Dex-Cool should be avoided since FCA/Stellantis is very prescriptive about what is and isn't on the ingredients list. Based on his counsel, I simply purchased the OEM coolant, which per my link wasn't any more costly than the varying brands sold at Auto Zone and elsewhere.

As for thread sealer for the relevant cooling systems bolts, this temperature-rated threadlock came strongly recommended. I've used different flavors of the Loctite brand for years now, and trust its suitability for purpose.

Do you know if both coolant reservoirs in the 2.0 (clear one in front and black one by the windshield) take the same coolant?
I bought a gallon of the Mopar rated coolant a while back just in case. Haven’t seen any evidence of a leak but the black tank is it registering on the dip stick. Wanna make sure it’s the same stuff for both. Thanks.

 

[RAO]

I just got back from a little 200 mile trip this morning and mine is leaking now too. 22 model will have to check the build date but 10.5k miles on it.

ETA: Build date February 22

lower bolt was loose but I can’t check the upper one. I don’t have any torx sockets here. I found a folding key set in my range bag but it’s too big/awkwardly shaped to get on the top bolt.

Be sure to check the upper one. My upper bolt was loose, more than the bottom one.

The TSB was updated to reflect Jeeps built through March ‘22.

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