🔋🔧 MAIN BATTERY REPLACEMENT TALK - JL/JT 🪫

[Ken Ztopolovky]

@dtown1974

I hear ya....

For the record, I have been running with just the Main and with the Aux bypassed for over 4 years and 63,000+. Never any issues.

Reliability ... I find my JL more reliable with it running with just the Main battery. Never any battery related issues, period.

During the 4+ years, I have used either the Tazer JL or a SmartStopStart unit to do the ESS button push for me. Yes, on occasion I do use ESS by doing the ESS button push myself. ESS works just fine with just the Main battery in the picture. I do minimize use of ESS though.

.

I run the stock set up and it works 100%.

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[UncleJimmy]

Hi guys. I'm trying to follow this thread and a few other ones regarding the aux battery issues and ESS. Maybe someone can clarify a few things for me (2020 JLUR):

My ESS warning light came on and I took it the dealer. They want to change the ABS sensor on one wheel. They say batteries test fine. From what I have read I should really just change both batteries.

1. I am seeing several ways to fix ESS and/or other battery issues: a. replace AUX batt b. replace both bat. c. delete AUX. It seems consensus is to delete. I am under warranty still so I am hesitant to do that. So I am leaning towards replacing both batteries just to be safe.

2. If I do decide to delete, I have seen several ways: a. pull the neg AUX lead; tape it up. Leave pos AUX lead connected and pull fuse 42. Is that it? What is the purpose of fuse 42? b. pull both pos and neg of AUX leads. Tape up neg and reroute the pos back to the pos post on the main battery. Don't pull any fuses. Are these two methods correct? Is one better?

3. Regarding ESS, a lot of you seem to be running the Tazer which again I am hesitant to do any modifications while under warranty (I have had some negative experiences already with the local dealership). I have read about the hood switch mod which will deactivate the ESS. Has anyone found any issues with doing that with or without the AUX delete?

4. Does the AUX battery post require E6 or E5, I have seen both mentioned?

EDIT: I just saw another variation where they pull F42 and instead of disconnecting the neg lead on the AUX battery, they disconnect and tape up the neg AUX lead on the neg main battery post. So three variations.

Links to videos. 3 different ways to bypass AUX:

 

[blnewt]

Hi guys. I'm trying to follow this thread and a few other ones regarding the aux battery issues and ESS. Maybe someone can clarify a few things for me (2020 JLUR):

My ESS warning light came on and I took it the dealer. They want to change the ABS sensor on one wheel. They say batteries test fine. From what I have read I should really just change both batteries.

1. I am seeing several ways to fix ESS and/or other battery issues: a. replace AUX batt b. replace both bat. c. delete AUX. It seems consensus is to delete. I am under warranty still so I am hesitant to do that. So I am leaning towards replacing both batteries just to be safe.

2. If I do decide to delete, I have seen several ways: a. pull the neg AUX lead; tape it up. Leave pos AUX lead connected and pull fuse 42. Is that it? What is the purpose of fuse 42? b. pull both pos and neg of AUX leads. Tape up neg and reroute the pos back to the pos post on the main battery. Don't pull any fuses. Are these two methods correct? Is one better?

3. Regarding ESS, a lot of you seem to be running the Tazer which again I am hesitant to do any modifications while under warranty (I have had some negative experiences already with the local dealership). I have read about the hood switch mod which will deactivate the ESS. Has anyone found any issues with doing that with or without the AUX delete?

4. Does the AUX battery post require E6 or E5, I have seen both mentioned?

EDIT: I just saw another variation where they pull F42 and instead of disconnecting the neg lead on the AUX battery, they disconnect and tape up the neg AUX lead on the neg main battery post. So three variations.

Links to videos. 3 different ways to bypass AUX:

I did the last one in your EDIT post at the very end, works great. I have the Tazer Lite so no need to continue pushing the ESS bypass dash switch. Pulling fuse 42 takes the aux battery out of the loop (and any problems it can cause to the main system when it's going bad) but your ESS is still active, that's why you need a Tazer or push that ESS bypass every time.

 

[UncleJimmy]

I did the last one in your EDIT post at the very end, works great. I have the Tazer Lite so no need to continue pushing the ESS bypass dash switch. Pulling fuse 42 takes the aux battery out of the loop (and any problems it can cause to the main system when it's going bad) but your ESS is still active, that's why you need a Tazer or push that ESS bypass every time.

Thanks for your feedback.

Anybody else want to chime in on these three different ways for AUX bypass? Still trying to decide on which method to use.

Thanks.

 

[multicam]

Thanks for your feedback.

Anybody else want to chime in on these three different ways for AUX bypass? Still trying to decide on which method to use.

Thanks.

The best and easiest way is to disconnect the aux negative terminal at the main battery, tape it up, and pull fuse 42. That lets you leave the aux battery inside the jeep and you can reverse the process in five minutes if you are worried about the dealership saying anything about your jeep not being in stock condition.

 

[UncleJimmy]

The best and easiest way is to disconnect the aux negative terminal at the main battery, tape it up, and pull fuse 42. That lets you leave the aux battery inside the jeep and you can reverse the process in five minutes if you are worried about the dealership saying anything about your jeep not being in stock condition.

I agree that seems like the easiest method if I want to reconnect easily for warranty work. I am less concerned about that now due to some recent developments with the dealership.

If you take a look at the second video from Ali Mansour, I believe he runs the Driving Line channel and evidently has good contacts with the Genesis DBS guys. Any ways, he is pulling the battery and connecting the power lead from the AUX back to the main pos terminal and taping/isolating the neg AUX lead, leaving the fuse in place. So I am still trying to understand what the F42 is doing.... and if I should rerout the AUX pos back to the main battery. There are some additional info in the comments discussion of that video.

 

[Genesis Offroad]

If you take a look at the second video from Ali Mansour, I believe he runs the Driving Line channel and evidently has good contacts with the Genesis DBS guys. Any ways, he is pulling the battery and connecting the power lead from the AUX back to the main pos terminal and taping/isolating the neg AUX lead, leaving the fuse in place. So I am still trying to understand what the F42 is doing.... and if I should rerout the AUX pos back to the main battery. There are some additional info in the comments discussion of that video.

That's exactly what we do with the cables when installing our dual battery system.

 

[UncleJimmy]

That's exactly what we do with the cables when installing our dual battery system.

Thanks. So leave the F42 there? What is that circuit doing exactly?

Will this procedure clear the ESS warning light or does it need to be cleared at the dealership?

 

[Rhinebeck01]

Main battery related thread..... well, it was...

 

[UncleJimmy]

Sorry about that... I saw discussion in this thread about the AUX, back up camera, fuse ESS but yes the title is Main battery. If you want to move this or tag me in another thread I would appreciate it.

 

[BadA$$Rubi]

Main battery related thread..... well, it was...

 

[NY LI'er]

Main battery related thread..... well, it was...

Hi Rheinbeck01,

I am new to the forum. I had been reading up on this issue of bad batteries on the JL's. I have a 2021 wrangler sport 2.0 I4 turbo with the batteries acting up already. Still in warranty. I would like to keep everything as is until the warranty expires in a year. In the meantime, instead of the going to the dealership to change the batteries under warranty, I wanted to put in aftermarket batteries in, both the main and auxillary. I read somewhere in the hundreds of posts that I speed read through and cannot find now, you said you were busy changing batteries on multiple jeeps. I personally dont feel comfortable changing them on my own even after watching online videos. [Banned Site] is a good one on youtube. As I doubt the dealer would be willing to put in aftermarket batteries, would the local shop mechanics be any good this this job? Or at the least, I could bring my jeep to you to do it for me?

 

[Rhinebeck01]

Hi Rheinbeck01,

I am new to the forum. I had been reading up on this issue of bad batteries on the JL's. I have a 2021 wrangler sport 2.0 I4 turbo with the batteries acting up already. Still in warranty. I would like to keep everything as is until the warranty expires in a year. In the meantime, instead of the going to the dealership to change the batteries under warranty, I wanted to put in aftermarket batteries in, both the main and auxillary. I read somewhere in the hundreds of posts that I speed read through and cannot find now, you said you were busy changing batteries on multiple jeeps. I personally dont feel comfortable changing them on my own even after watching online videos. [Banned Site] is a good one on youtube. As I doubt the dealer would be willing to put in aftermarket batteries, would the local shop mechanics be any good this this job? Or at the least, I could bring my jeep to you to do it for me?

I just messaged you...

 

[Rhinebeck01]

In regard to going with the Odyssey Performance AGM94R H7 L4 850 CCA, I listed as an H7 to use in a JL or JT...

Yes, very good battery and it fits well... but, you may not want to go with an Odyssey..

Problem is finding one..... and bigger problem is, if you have a problem with the battery at anytime during the 3 yr. warranty period, you have to deal with the manufacturer directly and apparently at this point in time their customer support is bad bad..

Many are reporting poor customer service and issues with getting customer service to respond in a timely manner and or to be able to contact customer service.

Another issue is when you do get the manufacturer to finally agree to replace a battery, it takes days to a week + to get the warranty replacement battery that they drop ship to you... NO, you cannot just walk into Napa, Auto Zone, etc. that sells Odyssey and get a replacement.

With the above in mind you may not want to go with an Odyssey battery.... unless you have time to deal with the above...

For me, I would be in a pickle lets say, if I had Odyssey battery trouble and I was on an interstate trip, etc.. Thus, though I would like to run an Odyssey, I will not..

 

[UncleJimmy]

I

In regard to going with the Odyssey Performance AGM94R H7 L4 850 CCA, I listed as an H7 to use in a JL or JT...

Yes, very good battery and it fits well... but, you may not want to go with an Odyssey..

Problem is finding one..... and bigger problem is, if you have a problem with the battery at anytime during the 3 yr. warranty period, you have to deal with the manufacturer directly and apparently at this point in time their customer support is bad bad..

Many are reporting poor customer service and issues with getting customer service to respond in a timely manner and or to be able to contact customer service.

Another issue is when you do get the manufacturer to finally agree to replace a battery, it takes days to a week + to get the warranty replacement battery that they drop ship to you... NO, you cannot just walk into Napa, Auto Zone, etc. that sells Odyssey and get a replacement.

With the above in mind you may not want to go with an Odyssey battery.... unless you have time to deal with the above...

For me, I would be in a pickle lets say, if I had Odyssey battery trouble and I was on an interstate trip, etc.. Thus, though I would like to run an Odyssey, I will not..

Good to know.

I recently purchased my Odyssey H7 at AutoZone. I called the manager and they had it shipped to their location same day from another store. I had it tested there a few days later and it tested good. Perhaps testing the battery before taking delivery might be worthwhile to help rule out getting a bad battery? Maybe not all problems would show up initially, I don't know....

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