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“Service Axle Locker System” Light On

redracer

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My dealer took a few tries to troubleshoot my service axle locker issue. It turns out that they may have dodged the replace axle bullet. Their tech found that the connector to the front axle had a pin backing out. They ordered and installed the replacement pigtail and it looks to of solved the issue... for now.

Now to order the potting compound to seal the sensors.
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JLUW75

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I'd be one of the lucky 2021 JLUR owners experiencing this after less than 4k miles.
In my case it began two days ago on my way home when I heard a loud (rather violent) clunk sound as if running over a rock or pothole. A few more of these clunks/bangs followed (at random intervals) clearly not caused by road condition. Then yesterday I took it out of the garage for a test and needless to say I heard banging and the dreaded "Service axle locker system" message popped up on my dash (it was the first time I saw it).
Shortly after, I happened upon this thread and I realized there are so many of us in this situation. And like most of you I wondered too why and how is this possible for a brand new $50k+ supposedly best in class off-road vehicle. And on top of it all the hope for a quick (and final) repair seems grim (with horror stories of 4 (four!) axle replacements).
In addition to the message I get the bonus bangs and clunks which I'm not even sure are even related (could it be the lockers trying to engage?).
Sorry for the long rant but I had to vent out.

Edit: I have an appointment to a local dealer (Thousand Oaks, CA for reference) this coming Monday to look at the issue. I'll mention this thread to them, curious what they'll have to say.
To me, this is shitty quality control from Jeep. Either shitty parts not getting rejected by the factory or shitty assembly that contributes to this premature failure! Sorry that this happened to you and I hope you found a more reliable vehicle.
 

SJSRubicon

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To me, this is shitty quality control from Jeep. Either shitty parts not getting rejected by the factory or shitty assembly that contributes to this premature failure! Sorry that this happened to you and I hope you found a more reliable vehicle.
My 2021 Rubicon SERVICE AXLE LOCKER happened at 2097 miles. Between this and the defective 2021 steering box my jeep spent 43 days at the dealer in the first 4 months of ownership. I had both axles, both actuators and the entire wiring harness replaced. I too when it happened had a clunk and bang experience. I have PTSD from being at the dealer so much I was scared to death to let them do the first oil change that it would take them a week. While I love driving the jeep. Now at 11 months old still a little wary to add mods to it. Jeep is definitely not the quality of a Toyota 4Runner. I had 2 of those and never did more than maintenance up to 150,000 miles. Definitely not the kind of confidence you want for Jeep off-road vehicle. By the way when mine let go it did clunk and bang. I was on a dirt trail equivalent to almost a paved road and I was out of cell service at the time. Just lovely. I could have taken the Outback station wagon but I wanted to drive the new Jeep. Mine also locked up again once I got home in the driveway pulling into the garage backing and filling. I have also read someone else’s locked up when they were on the freeway so please be careful until they’re fixed. You may want to go to NHTSA and also file a complaint so if enough folks do that maybe Jeep and Dana axle will fix the problem permanently going forward.
 

SJSRubicon

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I'd be one of the lucky 2021 JLUR owners experiencing this after less than 4k miles.
In my case it began two days ago on my way home when I heard a loud (rather violent) clunk sound as if running over a rock or pothole. A few more of these clunks/bangs followed (at random intervals) clearly not caused by road condition. Then yesterday I took it out of the garage for a test and needless to say I heard banging and the dreaded "Service axle locker system" message popped up on my dash (it was the first time I saw it).
Shortly after, I happened upon this thread and I realized there are so many of us in this situation. And like most of you I wondered too why and how is this possible for a brand new $50k+ supposedly best in class off-road vehicle. And on top of it all the hope for a quick (and final) repair seems grim (with horror stories of 4 (four!) axle replacements).
In addition to the message I get the bonus bangs and clunks which I'm not even sure are even related (could it be the lockers trying to engage?).
Sorry for the long rant but I had to vent out.

Edit: I have an appointment to a local dealer (Thousand Oaks, CA for reference) this coming Monday to look at the issue. I'll mention this thread to them, curious what they'll have to say.
My 2021 Rubicon SERVICE AXLE LOCKER happened at 2097 miles. Between this and the defective 2021 steering box my jeep spent 43 days at the dealer in the first 4 months of ownership. I had both axles, both actuators and the entire wiring harness replaced. I too when it happened had a clunk and bang experience. I have PTSD from being at the dealer so much I was scared to death to let them do the first oil change that it would take them a week. While I love driving the jeep. Now at 11 months old still a little wary to add mods to it. Jeep is definitely not the quality of a Toyota 4Runner. I had 2 of those and never did more than maintenance up to 150,000 miles. Definitely not the kind of confidence you want for Jeep off-road vehicle. By the way when mine let go it did clunk and bang. I was on a dirt trail equivalent to almost a paved road and I was out of cell service at the time. Just lovely. I could have taken the Outback station wagon but I wanted to drive the new Jeep. Mine also locked up again once I got home in the driveway pulling into the garage backing and filling. I have also read someone else’s locked up when they were on the freeway so please be careful until they’re fixed. You may want to go to NHTSA and also file a complaint so if enough folks do that maybe Jeep and Dana axle will fix the problem permanently going forward. BTW like was mentioned by another person they also found my pins were bent in my wiring harness. Makes me wonder if the lockers were actually the problem or not. No one wants a 4WD brand new vehicle having their axles replaced. Lunacy.
 

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I am turning my Rubicon into a sport. Using the Tazer to tell the jeep it does not have lockers, then wiring the lockers to aux switch #3 and #4.
 

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JLUW75

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I am turning my Rubicon into a sport. Using the Tazer to tell the jeep it does not have lockers, then wiring the lockers to aux switch #3 and #4.
So you are saying you want your Rubi to identify as a SPORT? lol, I hope it doesn't run into an identity crisis! ;)
 

rkwfxd

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I am turning my Rubicon into a sport. Using the Tazer to tell the jeep it does not have lockers, then wiring the lockers to aux switch #3 and #4.
Have other’s done this and are you sure it works?
 

Rockstar08

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I am turning my Rubicon into a sport. Using the Tazer to tell the jeep it does not have lockers, then wiring the lockers to aux switch #3 and #4.
Just what we need another Trans Rubi not knowing if it’s a Rubi or Sport…who knows maybe it was just built that way……lol
 

mgroeger

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I am turning my Rubicon into a sport. Using the Tazer to tell the jeep it does not have lockers, then wiring the lockers to aux switch #3 and #4.
Yep, just had this conversation with the Mrs. two days ago and will be doing the same thing. There are times when just the front locker is needed and also we no longer need to worry about that stupid hall sensor failing since we will be by passing it.
If the price hasn't changed you can get a mopar two wire harness that fits perfectly and has PLENTY of wire for $75.

Side Note: I'm running the Apex sway bar links and no longer disconnect the Rubi sway bar with the button. This means when I hit 18 mph I don't have the stupid nanny system trying to connect the sway bar back up... time to Tazer that biotch off too... lol.
 

mgroeger

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Just what we need another Trans Rubi not knowing if it’s a Rubi or Sport…who knows maybe it was just built that way……lol
LOL!!! Hey as long as it doesn't self identify as a Bronco we're good.
 

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mgroeger

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Have other’s done this and are you sure it works?
Yep. I believe @Roky has done it as well as others. The reality is the nanny system on the Jeep can suck at times. Sometimes there are delays in engaging and disengaging the lockers, sometimes you just want a front locker and of course we all know about the sensor failing.
 

chevymitchell

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Yep. I believe @Roky has done it as well as others. The reality is the nanny system on the Jeep can suck at times. Sometimes there are delays in engaging and disengaging the lockers, sometimes you just want a front locker and of course we all know about the sensor failing.
Keep in mind that the "Nanny" system is there to indicate a partially locked or partially unlocked locker plate.

Your dash will indicate that the locker is off when it's not sometimes. This can put the Jeep into a condition where you can break the locker assembly.

Make sure to drive by feel after you've unlocked the diff. If people fail to do this, it will break eventually.

The system isn't on and off. There is a transit function that is being eliminated when you do this.

I know you know this, but others reading this may not.

Also, there should never be a situation where you only need the front locker unless you have an Atlas or a way to put the rear driveshaft in Neutral. Can't dig with the factory T-Case.
 

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Keep in mind that the "Nanny" system is there to indicate a partially locked or partially unlocked locker plate.

Your dash will indicate that the locker is off when it's not sometimes. This can put the Jeep into a condition where you can break the locker assembly.

Make sure to drive by feel after you've unlocked the diff. If people fail to do this, it will break eventually.

The system isn't on and off. There is a transit function that is being eliminated when you do this.

I know you know this, but others reading this may not.

Also, there should never be a situation where you only need the front locker unless you have an Atlas or a way to put the rear driveshaft in Neutral. Can't dig with the factory T-Case.
OK this is interesting regarding needing a front locker only because twice now I've been on trails on an obstacle where the spotter told me front locker only. My understanding was they didn't want the rear having as good of traction. They simply wanted it to not grip and slide along the edge of the obstacle while the front locker got the Jeep hooked up. In both cases it was a ledge type scenario and not a dig type scenario. So the rear was still functioning just not in a locked position thereby not giving it extra bite. Does that make sense then to simply use the front?
 

chevymitchell

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OK this is interesting regarding needing a front locker only because twice now I've been on trails on an obstacle where the spotter told me front locker only. My understanding was they didn't want the rear having as good of traction. They simply wanted it to not grip and slide along the edge of the obstacle while the front locker got the Jeep hooked up. In both cases it was a ledge type scenario and not a dig type scenario. So the rear was still functioning just not in a locked position thereby not giving it extra bite. Does that make sense then to simply use the front?
I was putting together a lengthy response and then deleted it. You can do your own research on this. There's a reason every Rubicon has a Rear or Rear/Front button. There's nearly zero obstacles where you would use front only. The only possible thing I could think of is if you have enough traction and you don't want the rear locker to torque steer you off a line... and that's a big maybe because every time you think a front locker only would help, front and rear lockers would help more.

Front locker only is not something I would advocate, spot with, or teach anyone unless they have an Atlas and axles to support the capability of it.
 

chevymitchell

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I was putting together a lengthy response and then deleted it. You can do your own research on this. There's a reason every Rubicon has a Rear or Rear/Front button. There's nearly zero obstacles where you would use front only. The only possible thing I could think of is if you have enough traction and you don't want the rear locker to torque steer you off a line... and that's a big maybe because every time you think a front locker only would help, front and rear lockers would help more.

Front locker only is not something I would advocate, spot with, or teach anyone unless they have an Atlas and axles to support the capability of it.
Start a new thread if this is something we should talk about. Lol. I don't want to dilute this axle sensor thread anymore.
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