Mx5red
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Stealth hidden smittybilt H2O 12k winch install on Maximus-3 winch plate and Rubicon Steel bumper
Solenoid relocation.
12k H2O winch and Maximus-3 winch plate were easy to install (as I had learned on this forum)
I wanted a clean “hidden” install and did two things: clocked the gearbox 90’ backwards to clear the clutch lever from the bumper/delete plate; and, I mounted the solenoid behind the right side of the bumper like @Moregone
notes:
There is so much room left after install that even if you screw up the order of install of fairleads and such (me) you can still unscrew things and remount winch lines, etc. very easily.
The 12k h2o winch must be smaller than 10k Zeon winches.
You can also see from his pics that he routed the wires from the solenoid to the winch over the front frame rail; this is probably the cleanest way to do it.
Also, I couldn’t find it in instructions and had to google it. The rope loops behind winch and back over the top to attach to the drum. If your winch hook can’t fit through the bumper or fairlead then it’s easy to just mount the rope after mounting the winch.
Install:
1. Remove trim/skid/bumper. Easy, google good directions.
2. Mount Maximus-3 winch plate. Also good directions online like quadratec.
Maximus sent extra nuts and skipped the front temporary bolts, no big deal. FYI those front temporary bolts are not important, you still need to retighten things after the bumper goes back on at the end because the bumper and the front part of the plate both bolt onto the front of the frame rails. So you can use anything like zip ties to hold front of plate up until you tighten the back nuts then retighten when you put the bumper back on.
It was pretty easy nonetheless, and I have no comparison, but seems like a well engineered plate.
3. Clock winch gearbox 90’ backwards. Very easy with hex key, think it was 5mm.
There is plenty of room behind winch to reach and turn clutch lever. Not an issue.
4. Figure out wiring, and then mount winch. I like uncluttered OEM appearance and saw people that had relocated the solenoid so I tried hiding mine. Thanks @Moregone for the idea.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...oid-relocation-help-needed.24408/post-1053984
I wasn’t sure from his pics if I could still replace the winch delete plate for a true hidden install, but it worked perfect!
I plan to rewire/remount the solenoid up a little higher like Moregone but was tight on time. I routed the short wires forward around/under the frame rails. I didn’t have time to take the feet off the solenoid but it didn’t seem like it would fit anyway; after looking at his pics, it’s clear he had room after removing the brackets. Whoops!
I’m still not set on the the wiring up to the battery. I could not feel/see a route inside of the grill and frame rail that didn’t pass pretty close to hoses and stuff that I worried could cause a major failure later. So I tucked mine outside of that rail, but it pulls the wires into/under the fender liner. I worry that they could rub the tire, especially if tires bigger than oem are fitted.
I plan on keeping this route and adding a hose clamp or zip tie close to the frame to keep the wires as far from the tires as possible.
As others have shown there is an easy route up by the air box on the inside, I did remove mine to see better.
On the inside, I pulled it laterally to run underneath of the air intake, up in front of the battery and through a little bracket between the fender and the battery. I’m pointing at +\- wires, negative I ran in a plastic loom.
5. I plan on mounting a shutoff switch like this close to the battery:
I don’t like having constant power to the bumper. Didn’t want to use aux switch for relay and don’t think it’s a big deal to raise hood to turn on winch, or turn on winch before a big trip.
6. Mount bumper.
Not terrible but passenger inner bottom nut was hard to reach through wiring.
It wasn’t bad with some mcguyvering.
For that bolt I had to hold the impact under the bumper.
I also could still mount my oem rubicon skid plate despite winch plate moving the bumper/skid forward 1/4”.
I loosely started all bolts, but one towards driver side didn’t fully seat and I was worried about stripping the rivnut so I left it kind of loose. It’s a pretty weak skid plate so whatevs.
7. I plan on hiding hook behind a flip-up license plate bracket, didn’t have time to mount it. One question I have is, even after tightly wrapping the winch line under tension, I’m not sure I have room left to wind the nylon protective winch wrap into the drum. I see other people with it barely sticking out so it must be able to be wound inside? I may just un-Velcro it and keep it with the remote and put it on as needed instead of winding it in, I’m afraid of cutting the line on the inside of the winch frame if it’s too large inside. (I had smashed the rope a little when I loosely wound it at first. Gotta wind it under tension just to have enough room!
Stealth hidden smittybilt H2O 12k winch install on Maximus-3 winch plate and Rubicon Steel bumper
Solenoid relocation.
12k H2O winch and Maximus-3 winch plate were easy to install (as I had learned on this forum)
I wanted a clean “hidden” install and did two things: clocked the gearbox 90’ backwards to clear the clutch lever from the bumper/delete plate; and, I mounted the solenoid behind the right side of the bumper like @Moregone
notes:
There is so much room left after install that even if you screw up the order of install of fairleads and such (me) you can still unscrew things and remount winch lines, etc. very easily.
The 12k h2o winch must be smaller than 10k Zeon winches.
You can also see from his pics that he routed the wires from the solenoid to the winch over the front frame rail; this is probably the cleanest way to do it.
Also, I couldn’t find it in instructions and had to google it. The rope loops behind winch and back over the top to attach to the drum. If your winch hook can’t fit through the bumper or fairlead then it’s easy to just mount the rope after mounting the winch.
Install:
1. Remove trim/skid/bumper. Easy, google good directions.
2. Mount Maximus-3 winch plate. Also good directions online like quadratec.
Maximus sent extra nuts and skipped the front temporary bolts, no big deal. FYI those front temporary bolts are not important, you still need to retighten things after the bumper goes back on at the end because the bumper and the front part of the plate both bolt onto the front of the frame rails. So you can use anything like zip ties to hold front of plate up until you tighten the back nuts then retighten when you put the bumper back on.
It was pretty easy nonetheless, and I have no comparison, but seems like a well engineered plate.
3. Clock winch gearbox 90’ backwards. Very easy with hex key, think it was 5mm.
There is plenty of room behind winch to reach and turn clutch lever. Not an issue.
4. Figure out wiring, and then mount winch. I like uncluttered OEM appearance and saw people that had relocated the solenoid so I tried hiding mine. Thanks @Moregone for the idea.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...oid-relocation-help-needed.24408/post-1053984
I wasn’t sure from his pics if I could still replace the winch delete plate for a true hidden install, but it worked perfect!
I plan to rewire/remount the solenoid up a little higher like Moregone but was tight on time. I routed the short wires forward around/under the frame rails. I didn’t have time to take the feet off the solenoid but it didn’t seem like it would fit anyway; after looking at his pics, it’s clear he had room after removing the brackets. Whoops!
I’m still not set on the the wiring up to the battery. I could not feel/see a route inside of the grill and frame rail that didn’t pass pretty close to hoses and stuff that I worried could cause a major failure later. So I tucked mine outside of that rail, but it pulls the wires into/under the fender liner. I worry that they could rub the tire, especially if tires bigger than oem are fitted.
I plan on keeping this route and adding a hose clamp or zip tie close to the frame to keep the wires as far from the tires as possible.
As others have shown there is an easy route up by the air box on the inside, I did remove mine to see better.
On the inside, I pulled it laterally to run underneath of the air intake, up in front of the battery and through a little bracket between the fender and the battery. I’m pointing at +\- wires, negative I ran in a plastic loom.
5. I plan on mounting a shutoff switch like this close to the battery:
I don’t like having constant power to the bumper. Didn’t want to use aux switch for relay and don’t think it’s a big deal to raise hood to turn on winch, or turn on winch before a big trip.
6. Mount bumper.
Not terrible but passenger inner bottom nut was hard to reach through wiring.
It wasn’t bad with some mcguyvering.
For that bolt I had to hold the impact under the bumper.
I also could still mount my oem rubicon skid plate despite winch plate moving the bumper/skid forward 1/4”.
I loosely started all bolts, but one towards driver side didn’t fully seat and I was worried about stripping the rivnut so I left it kind of loose. It’s a pretty weak skid plate so whatevs.
7. I plan on hiding hook behind a flip-up license plate bracket, didn’t have time to mount it. One question I have is, even after tightly wrapping the winch line under tension, I’m not sure I have room left to wind the nylon protective winch wrap into the drum. I see other people with it barely sticking out so it must be able to be wound inside? I may just un-Velcro it and keep it with the remote and put it on as needed instead of winding it in, I’m afraid of cutting the line on the inside of the winch frame if it’s too large inside. (I had smashed the rope a little when I loosely wound it at first. Gotta wind it under tension just to have enough room!
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