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I wouldn’t be mad if I came back and found a box of ammo or two waiting for me. 124 gr 9mm Speer Gold Dots? Yes, please!

Many variables to take into account, but I’m leaning towards agreeing with C.Sco here at this point. I’ve got about 1500 miles on the odometer, but since adding a DeeZee rack before the 1000 mile mark, my average MPG on the dash has mostly been climbing, currently a little over 18 MPG driving...

@Gmanjeeper No other armor at this point. Just the stock XR suspension’s 1.5” lift over a stock JLUR sans the XR package.

@Gmanjeeper It doesn’t interfere with the stock driveshaft on my JLUR and the added protection is worth any small loss in ground clearance, though I don’t think I lost much, if any. Why not just leave it in place once it’s installed? You could always leave the arms going to the DS and PS...

So shifting from 2H straight to 4L and skipping 4H is good to go? I’ve always gone from 2H to 4H then to shifted into 4L thinking this is the proper procedure? Maybe I’m carrying over the 2H-4H-4L procedure from my 4Runner?

I feel like we should start a Jeep club based solely on our shared headache of an experience just trying to figure out how to install the damn thing! Just glad this thread can serve as a resource to others in the same boat.

Welcome to the community ARB

Good to hear it worked out for you! How much did you have to cut off to prevent the driveshaft from rubbing? I’m still on stock XR, but would be good to know future reference.

Nah. 😂 I’m not really one for advertising if I don’t have to, but it’s under the Jeep and out of sight, out of mind.

I used a flex-head socket wrench with a 5” extension, which helps since you need to go over the wiring loom. Though once you take down the Passenger side fender liner, a standard socket wrench with a 5” extension will do the job. **I should add that me using the flex-head socket wrench wasn’t...

I meant to update this thread a day or two ago. For anyone curious, I had to go out and get a 15” impact extension, finding one locally proved harder than I thought, and even then I still needed to stack another 5” extension to get down far enough to reach the two DS motor mount bolts. The...

For anyone who has installed the M.O.R.E. Oil pan/transmission skid on a 2021+ 3.6L that requires you replace the motor mount bolts on the driver’s side… #1 How the heck did you get a wrench in there to loosen the bolts and #2 how did you get a torque wrench in there to torque to the required...

Welcome, Skip!

1. Angels 2. The Rock 3. Keepin’ it Saxy 4. My Wife

Call me crazy, but I don’t feel like mine drives all that different from my 4Runner. Maybe it’s cause my 4R has heavy springs, but I find my Jeeps ride more comfortable and I don’t feel like it floats all over the lane while on the highway, needing constant correction either. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Got some waves this last weekend coming up, down and while in Big Bear. The first 59 waves were nice and I acknowledged by waving back. Once we hit 60, that was just over-the-top madness and I was done.

I did consider friction as a possible reason for them being there, at the time. I reached out to Smittybilt to ask. Good news is that it doesn’t take too long to unwind the rope, remove the vinyl sticker and pretension it again, if needed.

Old thread, but the SB X20 I bought brand new last year had the same scratches on the cylinder. I covered it with a piece of clear vinyl and forgot about it. I’ve seen the same marks on other SB units.

Have any of them ever challenged you to a friendly game of Battleshits? This can be the only rational explanation.