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I use Crosby G-209A Alloy Screw Pin Shackles. The 3/4" G-209A is rated at 14,000 lb WLL. They can typically be purchased for about $60 each. IMO, you should only purchase from an authorized distributor to avoid cheap knock-offs.

Can you confirm which Rings you have. The pictures look like the Protection Rings and not the Beadlock Rings.

Check for codes with a scanner that checks all systems, not just engine codes. You might be surprised what will cause the 'service stop / start' warning. I got the stop/start system message on the dash after driving through super slushy / wet conditions. I read the codes and it told me that...

Just as a point of reference, I know a guy at work with a manual JL 3.6 and he reports the same thing on cold starts. He says it's so bad that he won't let anyone else in his family drive it.

Not all Load Range E tires are created equal. LRE tires get their load carrying capacity from their construction and ability to run high tire pressure to carry the load. This does not always equate to a 'stiffer' sidewall or ride. My personal experience: I'm running the 255/85R17 Baja Boss AT...

In the video posted, the cover that the guy paints green does not have a drain plug, but the one shown when he is cleaning the flange has a drain plug. The covers that Dana specifies for use with the JL/JT Advantek axles do not have a drain plug: But, the cover for "Various" Dana 44 axles...

Did you have to do multiple passes at the final torque value?

Did you by any chance double-check the fastener torque when you installed the housing to the block? I'm asking because I always check my final torque after torqueing in stages. On my JK, I found that the Oil Cooler housing to block screws took 3 passes at final torque before the bolts didn't...

Correct. When installed as a factory option, the 'standard' non-washable air filter is installed. There is a warning right on the Mopar CAI box and in the instructions stating "THIS PART IS INTENDED SOLELY FOR USE IN COMPETITION VEHICLES DRIVEN ON TRACKS OR OFF. VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH THIS...

Remember, it's a factory option only with the factory paper type air filter and no hood cutout. If you install it exactly as the factory does, then you shouldn't have to worry about any warranty work. I bought the Mopar CAI, then sold the 'high flow' washable filter and hood cutout parts.

It's the only correct way to do the job.

This is missing the steps of loosening all of the control arm and track bar bolts, and then re-tightening them with the vehicle back on the ground with the suspension at the re-established ride height.

The way you describe will work to get the spacer in, but because of the change in ride height, the rubber suspension bushings will be partially 'bound' at normal ride height. Therefore, you need to loosen all of the control arm, track bar & shock bolts so that the rubber bushings re-establish...

I can confirm that the MTBBATs are a true 34.6" diameter, measured unloaded.

I think you may mean Lucas 85W140 (AFAIK, Lucas doesn't make a 75W145, and their 75W140 is synthetic). FYI, ECGS recommends Lucas 85W140 conventional oil for their axles.

Distilled water with either a microfiber or 100% cotton t-shirt. If the seats are too dirty to clean with just water, I use Lexol cleaner followed by Lexol conditioner.

Maybe a technicality, but when shifting the transfer case from 2H to 4H, there is no "N" between them. It is a direct shift from 2H to 4H.

Yeah, these things happen. Ask around (maybe on your local forum) to see who is good for PDR in your area and let them take care of it.

A good PDR person will make that disappear.

Just to clarify, your engine didn't make noise up until you ran it at least a quart low on oil?